EDIT 25th Nov 17
Added e3ddual35-v2beta.stp it's the current final state of the fan. IT HAS AN ISSUE, I need to finish this someday. It makes quite hard to install the small nuts that hold all in place, I was planning to fix it soon, but not much time lately.
EDIT: Added Led halo ring holder. So far it works, but hey, it's a first version so mind the gap :D
I used one of the Halo Leds I bough 2 years ago for other project, the Ebay description they call them as "90MM 105 LED COB Chip SMD Car Angel Eyes Headlight Bright Halo Ring Light" So I suppose that's how to find them. Mines are blue, I would prefer other tone, but it's ok.
EDIT: Added STEP files for the 4 parts, base, left, right, ledlighthalo-holder Enjoy!
The Led holder has some zig zag as support, so you should not use support for that part and at 0.2 with 3-4 bottom/top layers it prints fine if you have good cooling to make nice sweet bridges. The led 'clips' and doesn't move (it weights so little' but if you want you could add 1 drop of glue to make sure it stays there forever.
A design based on Gudo fan design. It's a beta so expect errors, but so far it works.
The Fan model used is 35x35x10 BFB03512HHA & connected them in series because they are 12V and east3dgecko uses 24V PSU
- When hitting Pause, since the firmware can't be reedited, it might hit the x0 y0. I did try to make it as compact as possible but still it would need a different assembly to remove the last part of the problem. So far it works and gives a very nice cooling.
- Isn't totally symmetrically centered to the Hotend, just because there's no room to move the fan behind. It could be possible to make to design the fan rotated so the wings spread and there's more room for the fans, but it would need to be a 45 degrees at least so it doesn't hit the rails of the corexy.
- The part near the hotend SHOULD be taped with Aluminium take (high temp alu tape goes up to 150C). This should make the fancap last quite a good amount of time. But still, you NEED a E3D silicon sock. Just because it gives better thermal stability and you don't need to worry about the fans hitting the heater block.
For assembly the fan uses M2.5mm screws, and to fix it to the adapter you need 2 m3 15-15mm. It should screw into the printed part, so don't force it since there's no room to install a nut.
Also remember is a first version so it might have errors.
Print test at my Twitter account
Important. I printed this on GreenTec BDP PLA filament that can resist up to 100C without issues. Anything less than 100C (Ngen for example it's bad in my experience for this but can work for a few months) will get deformed over time, so print more than 1 set just in case.