It seems the TYC-50 base motor bolts holes aren't aligned.
The motor is symetric but we can see one of the mounting holes is out.
Does someone have corrected collator plates 9mm and .40 SW with bigger hole for this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3202207/comments shaft nut?
I just finished my machine,but doesn't work correctly bullets felt down 50/50 nose up, nose down,like nothing flip the,m correct way...what i'm doing wrong, i printed everything for 9mm nose up but still doesn't work correctly, pls need some advice which part or adjustment i should do?
I had about 25% not flipping. Slowed down the RPMs on the motor and it fixed it.
FYI for anybody casting 9mm bullets. I was able to get powder coated Lee 6-Cavity Bullet Mold 356-125-2R 9mm Luger, 38 Super, 380 ACP (356 Diameter) 125 Grain 2 Ogive Radius to flip using the bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_big_cal_double_slide.stl .
Can someone please assist. I’m using MBF parts and switch. I’m reloading 9mm but do I need the large or small drop tube switch in the 10mm?
Nice design!! I am looking to get this set up to feed my Hornady Lnl progressive 223 bullets. I am a bit confused on what parts do I need to print and order, can anyone help me out with a list? Thanks
Is anyone using the nose down bullet flipper? bf_v2_bullet_flipper_nose_down
I cant seem to get it to work, a bullet just drops into it then just sits inside it.
What mounting bracket would I use for a Dillon 1050? Same as my 650? Thanks
I have testet something with .45 Bullets RN
I have made the whole bigger 11,8mm is not enough , better 12mm ore more,
Sometimes at the 45 230grs. they do not fall through but hang in the funnel inside, can you fix it? inner 12mm and outside 15mm ?
Are you referring to the funnel that mounts to the bottom of the main body (base) that the MBF spring inserts into? If I understand correctly I had a similar issue but it wasn't the diameter of the funnel it was the retaining clip (aka bent paperclip) I used to hold the spring in the funnel. I ended up using a different combination of parts from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207921 (chute_adapter_new.stl and large_spring_adapter.stl)
Has anyone upsized this to match the larger commercial sizes?
It can be done but the question is how much weight can you add before things get wonky?
hvat base plate fits the mr bulletfeeder motor?
see thing details...
Could I get a link or a better description for the two uxcell motors? I have searched but can't verify what the 31mm signifies. Thanks for all the hard work you've put into this!
The 31mm seems to refer to the length measurement of the gearbox of the uxcell geared motors I found on Amazon. I ordered the uxcell 5RPM off-centric (offset)12v DC motor from amazon and have confirmed it matches the bolt pattern on the corresponding bullet feeder body.
Hi There, do you perhaps have a shell plate, to use for cases ? 9mm ? To use the same system - Printed again, but to use to flip and feed 9mm cases ?
I am using your Bullet Feeder and it works 100%.
Very good idea to have small case feeder for 9x19....
Not sure if this will show, but this is what I am looking for.
I have finished my 6.5mm Collator & Flip plate, works great.
I'm just finishing up a rifle plate for 6.5, that uses a standard height plate (no spacer) and flips the round. Hope to have it finished this weekend. I could work up a 308 version if their is any interest. I'll post a video when complete
I would absolutely be interested in a 308 Version. Probably will be developing a 7mm as well.
Per your request, I have made a 308 Plate. I have not tested it, based on my 6.5 plate, just scaled it for 308.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3732253
Excellent! Thank you. I will be running this on my machine shortly.
The 6.5 Creedmoor plate does not work, don't waste your time printing it. I'm making my own, will post when completed.
Diameter of the bullet and thickness of the plate both need to be correct to work. For 308W I use 2 different plates depending on the length of the bullet. I used the SCAD file and created plates to suit my needs.
Thanks, yeah, I'm learning that. I created my own 6.5 plate in Fusion 360 which I'll release when improved, which does grab the bullets, but the nose down is an issue, working on a solution, but it is very likely I need to use a spacer to aid in flipping the bullet.
thank you and :thumbs-up:!
What are you using to hold mbf spring into drop tube..... looks like there are slots cut into it....
The metal clip is different than the one that came with my MBF spring, is that just a bent paperclip?
What switch is recommended now that the Mouser 540-E22-85HX is discontinued?
I am wondering this too, hopefully something I can get on Amazon or Ebay.
I used Tom-Penn's Slightly Modded base
It's a little "grainy" (My Print, that is)
Setting for Ender 3 are as follows
My Ender has a glass bed...
Amazon Basics Black PLA
Layer Height 0.15
Wall Line Count 6
Top/Bottom Thickess 0.8
Printing temp 200
Build Plate Temp 60
Initial Build Plate temp 70
Print Speed 60
Travel Speed 120
Initial Layer print speed 30
Initial Travel Speed 60
Z Hop on
100% Print cooling
Brim of 6mm
My only issue was 1st layer I had to make bed really close, or the initial layer circles it draws pulled away when it moved....
The 6.5 creedmoor drop tube, Big Switch, small spring, has the wrong ID 0.258 (0.264 is the bullet OD + add clearance + printer tolerance). I printed it 1st, should have checked it first.
It just mentioned the ID, not the caliber.... 6.5 is 6.5 mm and not 6.5 Creedmoor or 6.5x55 SE.
What spring are you folks using for the flipper? Bed spring from my printer is so stiff, that the feeder has to work really hard to overcome the flipper each time there's an empty slot.
i used the spring from a ball point pen. And put a small piece of stick-on floor protector/felt pad for furniture (whatever it's called) between the flipper and the base to minimize the noise.
Most of the videos i saw with it running showed a bullet of some weight sitting behind it..... I have yet to build mine, but I have some various size bullets i was planning to try
I want to change the ID of the MBF base to 168.2 mm can you recommend a program to make this change. I have tried Fusion with no results
I just started printing the plates for this. I'm planning on using it for 9mm. Does anyone have any idea how many rounds this will hold at a time? It seems rather small now that I'm printing it.
With that said, it looks like a great design!
aprox. 400 9mm bullets @115 grns, if you mount it properly :D
More than plenty! :)
650 and loadmaster feeder
Has anyone created a plate that would allow you to also use the project as a case feeder for 9mm?
To save some material which drop tube is for 40/10mm? i assume 11mm?
i use the 12mm
Thanks! It would be nice to have a spreadsheet of each tube and what they are used for To make this easier :D
How can I make changes to i.e. the collator plate to fit my motor? If I import the .stl file into the cadsoftware, I only get a mesh that I cannot work on, do I need the source files to make such changes?
Use the plate generator file, from the "files folder" when you download. open it up in SCAD, software and the variables are defined at the top of the script for you to customize.
Has anyone used the Anet A8 3d printer for this project? And does anyone have a comment about using this printer for this project?
Any help appreciated thankyou.
Reply to 357magnum
Yes, it was literally my first major project and was very successful. My bullet feeder is in nose-down configuration for lubing through a Star lube-sizer. I already own a Mr Bullet Feeder and the nose down set-up at the time was not available. It was just too much fiddling to get it to work nose down.
The A8 is a great little printer although it does have minor shortcomings but none that seem to affect the finished product. It got me started in 3d printing. I am currently using an Ender 3 printer. I think I printed a couple of collator plates with the Ender 3 and there was no real difference in quality. The Ender 3 is mechanically better and a lot faster than the A8. I looked at a project building the A8 around a custom aluminum extrusion frame, but found that was cheaper to just buy an Ender 3!
Best of luck with your project and feel free to contact me if you have any queries, although the inhabitants of this board have been a great help to me.
Many thanks to Ammomike for sharing this project!
The Ender 3 is a great printer. I myself have an A8, which I upgraded with an aluminum frame, though I purchase mine before the ender was available. If I had to buy again, I'd go Ender 3.
I am using the UXCELL offcentric 31mm, How is everyone that is using a smooth shaft motor hooking it up to turn the collator plate?
An excellent question I myself would like to know how others have done. From what I've read you can fabricate a coupler that has a horizontal hole through it with which a roll pin would be inserted and if the shaft of the motor is smaller than the hole in the pre-generated collator plates you can use the collator plate generator to create one to match your shaft coupler diameter. Haven't measured the plate or base opening size but possible to use a premade coupled (6mm ID x 14mm OD) like I've found on amazon.com and drill through one of the the set screws for the roll pin
I just bought JGY370 motor but the shaft is too short to rotate disc,do you use some adapter or how you manage ?
I have an adapter in my "makes". You'll likely have to modify it as the discussion on it's page seems to indicate the motor shafts are non-standard. You'll also have to print bullet plates with larger shaft holes for it. I made it that way to be stronger. If you already printed plates with a smaller shaft hole if you do a search for one here, there are several available.
Thank you for answer only I’m afraid that don’t know how to make hole for this adapter-not good with drawing stl if you have a file for plate 9mm and .40 SW I will appreciate a lot !!!
I printed 2 of these, the one for 9mm works great but I cannot get the other one I use for 45acp to work very well at all. Either using it by dropping base down or nose down with the right drop plates, the bullets get jammed in-between the hole and the rotating shell plate which jams the motor. I have tried 230g round nose, flat point and 200g semi wad cutters, all do the same thing. Its almost as if the bullets cant drop fast enough. I have tried all different angles of holding the feeder as well. I have 3 other Mr. bulletfeeders so am pretty familiar with setting them up. Any ideas what to try?
you could try this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3409137
I had the same issue and made a modified turning plate. The little nose at the beginning gives the backside of a bullet more support and the flat nose/round nose more motivation to "go over the edge".
The base should be mounted with a something between 30-45 degree.
Thanks, ill give it a try when I use it dropping the bullets base down. I forgot to mention I am having the issue dropping them nose down for a resizer.
Any elephants foot or lip at the base of the wheel?
Never heard that term and looked it up, the plate did have some of that and I removed it, the 230g work OK now but the SWC still gets jammed, im going to try and smooth the opening and anything with a sharp edge on it.
Try a burr whip, they work wonders
Looking forward to this as I’m having the same issue
what do you use for the lee bullet feeder?
When using the hornady die and the adapter for it i am noticing bullets getting stuck in the area between the 2 pieces there is a larger gaped area in the body of the 2 when joined with the drop tube and it's catching the lip of the adapter tube do i need to trim down the drop tube a bit so there is not so much of a space for bullets to get caught on this lip?
This is what i am talking about.
Hey ammomike what CAD are you using for modifications?
Hi Mike, thanks for the great work you're doing here. I have a question. I'm printing the base for the offset Uxcell motor since I have a spare from another project, along with a controller. I'm going to be using it with the .223 collator plate. Exactly what do I need to drive it with. It has a 6mm D-shaped shaft. Should I be planning on drilling the shaft and driving a spring pin into it? Or is there an available drive for it readily available somewhere?
I did a search through the comments section here, and couldn't find an answer. Thanks for your time.
I removed the shaft model from the thing files, because some people tried to print it....
You can go with the pin, as long as the shaft diameter is as big as the collator plate center hole.
60KTYZ this is the motor i plan to use i notice however it's 110v ac and most of the electronics listed are all 12v... how does that work when trying to wire up the motor to stop on the photosensor?
To avoid serious injuries, I recommend working with 12v, if you do not know how to wire up relais and 110v. :)
how do i know what base i need? im using it on a dillon 550.. any help would be great
the base depends on the motor you want to use. please read thing details for further instructions.
I ordered the motor you suggested in the parts list.. I printed the first base I’m unsure that was correct. Any help would be great
IGARASHI 33G-312 12v
UXCELL centric 31mm
UXCELL offcentric 31mm
...so WHICH of them did you purchase?
Again: The base depends on the motor you want to use. please read thing details for further instructions.
Happy new year, everyone! I want to share some cool modifications with you from tom_penn:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3207921
What spring are people using for 9mm? I have the small switch Drop tube it will go to a daa die.
I need to print the drop tube that mounts to the die for 223 witch one is it
has anyone gotten this to work with 180gr rnfp, i could really use your help. having a ell of a time trying to get it to work right
I have with 40 S&W 180 gn rnfp berrys and blue bullets. Make sure you are using the correct flipper tray. I dont know which one but the first one I used I couldnt get it right. Then make sure you have angle on the collator. At least 45-50 degrees.
has anyone gotten this to work with 180gr rnfp blue bullets, could really use your help if you have
I have with 40 S&W 180 gn rnfp berrys and blue bullets. Make sure you are using the correct flipper tray. I dont know which one but the first one I used I couldnt get it right. Then make sure you have angle on the collator. At least 45-50 degrees.
I have the chance and the JGY370 worm motor already so whichever you lile better. My neighbor is going to print this for me. Can someone help me with what files to give him? I don't have a bullet feeder die yet so Rcbs,hornady, whatever is better loading wise I can buy. I'll be doing 9mm plated RN only on a 650
Also will be using limit switches. I have low force with long arms, and small arms already also
I have downloaded openscad and the generator but no clue hpw to use it. I looked for the modify but couldnt see anything that said it
I had the problem, that some bullet dont got turned, and some wich where right got turned.
If someone have the same issue maybe I can help.
I put the open side of the feeder a bit to the right side, and placed a limiter to the adj.turningplate, so that the bullets wich are right cant flip
I try to Attach pictures
Will you post the file?
Hi. Which turning plate should i use for 9mm flatnose? Works Good with round nose.
Hi, thank you for this wonderful project.
Is there a list of print parts needed to complete in addition to the external parts? is there several versions? (Not thinking about the caliber collator plates)
I see that you have some similar parts and is wondering wich one to choose... for ex: bf_v2_base_xxxxxxx....
Is there someone who used another switch? The one in the Infos (Switch (big): Mouser 540-E22-85HX (Operating Force: 0.01 N !!)) isnt available anymore.
And i cant find any other switch with an Operating Force 0.01N.
having the same problem. Mouser discontinued this switch I think as I look at their website it has a referral to similar switches.
Is the 9mm Plate also working for .357 bullets?
Thanks in advance
If you have the XL650 you can order the Dillon shot post (17124) from the SL900 to mount your bullet feeder from. It puts it in good spot next to the case feeder.
Anyone have a stl for a box for the XH-M131 light relay/sensor that they would share?
Thank you very much for this project. Can i ask for parts list for 9mm Luger, Lee pro 1000 press? Im French and pretty confused about the files names.
I've added a 9mm sample configuration to the thing instructions.
Thank you very much for this project. Can i ask for parts list for 9mm Luger, Lee pro 1000 press? Im French and pretty confused about the names.
Does anyone know of a case slide mechanism that i can make for a hornady lnl ap press that works with the 3d printed case feeder?
I have printed this up and have had great success except for one issue.
I have setup the feeder with the light switch, and it seems with the 223 bullets i'm using they sit just a bit low so that the LED is pointing over the tip of the bullet and causing the motor to keep feeding. any ideas how I can resolve this? I would like to move the drop tube lower onto the die so the bullets line up. Any ideas?
try to set a sensitivity of photo resistor on a board. there is small potentiometer. Or set up ball bearings in mr. bullet feeder die tube for your bullets. If it doesn't work, just remove some material from drop tube
Has anyone tried to use plastic convulated tubing instead of the springs? (it is the ribbed tubing electricians sometimes use), you can get it in 10mm and 1/2" id.
I'm also using tubing like that. The one I use is 16mm od, 10mm id and about 3,5-4mm between the corrugations.
Put the tube in place, then the small piece and secure it with cable ties.
The drop tube is intended for a micro switch that's 6mm thick and 9,5mm between the holes. I haven't tested the tall drop tube yet but the idea is that it will put more pressure on the last bullet and set it more securely in the case.
Yes, I'm using it instead of springs as I wasn't able to find any appropriate generic ones and to pay a postage from DAA wasn't worth it. Works fine for me with 9 mm coated bullets.
I had to create a spring housing from collator by myself for it and fix it to tubing with a duck tape. Related files in attachment to post. AmmoMike might add it to his project.
Awesome will give it a try. Thanks for the reply and info
Making this for my XL 650 for 9mm.
I've made some changes to some of the parts that I am using.
Threaded spring housing that works with the DAA large spring among other things.
Excellent project!! ;)
Added your link to the thing-details.
Hello Ammomike83. I have started building your bulletfeeder project by printing out the 45 ACP collator plate. However, I need the nose-down version of the bulletfeeder. (I already have a MBF unit) Do you have a list of what parts I need from your unit to build for the nose down version and are there any particular bases and/or collator plates specific to nose down? Also, I could not find the bushing which attaches the "slinky" spring to the base.
Thanks in advance for your help and thank you for sharing this with the community!
where can i find "bullet feed bushing" ? the little insert that goes in the lee bullet feeder
having problems with the 308 flipping up I am using the normal turning plate do I need the big cal plate for the 308 thanks
It works really well. Thank you for your work!https://youtu.be/-tQWyJGVaps
Additionally, I created the driver from the beginning to one engine at the end for two engines.
A solution based on ready-made elements of Arduino.
I wonder if you have a solution for feeding shell Parabellum 9x19?
Out of curiosity, I did the tests. It works! But it can always work better:)
Collator plate designed for 9mm bullet not for casehttps://youtu.be/mfwGsR4uuvI
Can you create a project that will be better for case feeder. Maybe only collator plate?
Pretty cool, I like your case feeder, I made a bullet orientation sensor. 3d printed and designed case, and bracket for dillon xl650. Uses 5v 6mm 650nm laser dot, laser receiver, IR sensor for base location, and arduino nano mcu. 6.5 creedmoor exams lm e, no video yet still need to design the mirror holder which will attach to the primer tube. Reflects the beam to the laser receiver if bullet is missing or upside down.
Where are my manners! Thank you Ammomike for all your hard work and for sharing this project!
Hello Ammomike83. I have been following your project for some time now both here and on other forums. I own a Mr Bulletfeeder. Recently I acquired an Anet A8. What a bang for $200 bucks! Ammomike, are the collator plates the same dimensions as the MBF? I am pretty new to 3d printing and want to make a 223 collator plate and was wondering if it will fit the MBF.
I think they won't fit. The diameter is different. But you can use the "collator plate generator" to create your own plates fitting the MBF.
Thanks AmmoMike83. I saw that will and use it.
did a small upgrade.
Made a connector between shell drop tube and bullet drop tube. The spring is tensioned now and pushing the drop tube back in place.
Created a carriage and carriage holder for the optical sensor. This should allow you to move the sensor from one drop tube to the next. Not sure if there is much interest or not. Hot glue for holding the 12v LED in place, the LED keeps the unit from sliding, and the band keeps it in place when a shell pushes up to have a bullet seated.
Hey Mike, I printed out your device and everything works however it seems with my ABS printer it shrinks so the 147.5 diameter at least for me needs to be 148.5. Easy enough with your scad generator. I noticed another thing with the generator is that the collator plate height and the other variable for bullet_h seem to be the same which is fine but redundant? Could it be that one is not being used. Do you need to set both variables to 13 for rifle and 8 for pistol or just one, cause it looks like one variable is not being used.
that was for testing purposes. Please load the last version from thingfiles (1.0.3).
Hey Mike, thanks yeah the 1.0.3 version has the same thing. My question is in your scad code you have:
bullet_plate_h=18; //bullet plate height
are you actually using bullet_plate_h? It doesn't look like it, instead you're using
collator_plate_h=13; //collator plate height (mm) - for pistol rounds use 13, for rifle rounds 18
So do I really need to set
bullet_plate_h=18; //bullet plate height or is collator_plate_h the relevant variable?
You are right. I forgot to change the example variables after code cleanup. There is a new version online.
Thanks, sorry my coding OCD was kicking in.
Where is possible to buy output spring-non DAA...?
My printer as finally arrived. so I'm about to start printing this, already have the control unit wired up!
Quick question, how much wiggle room do you need to leave around the bullet on the collator plate. I'm using this to feed a sizing setup for cast boolits with a dia of .402 and I'm wondering if they will be to big for your .40 plate? I assume it was designed for plated projectiles?
you can use the .40 plate.
hello i would like to make the bullet fedder for my dillion 650 xl and dont know what stl files to use i am very confused all i need id the parts for 9mm and dont know what to do
After printing the variable hanging mount to attach the bullet feeder to my Hornady LNL case feeder, I noticed that the output spring would be too short based on where I wanted to attached it to my case feeder. I redesigned the case feeder side of the variable hanging mount by increasing the length of the outside part to lower the case feeder to not stretch the spring and reach the bullet feeder die. I also shortened the inside leg and flattened the inside face that contacts the case feeder so I can attached it to the flattened wall of the hornady case feeder. Printing it now, will let you know how it works.
I am currently using the original MBF dropper assembly that uses the microswitch. Im switching over to the led version to get away from the mechanical switch. Im going to use the bf_v2_led_coupler_small_spring and I will be using it for 223. While the spring size is correct I "believe" the original part is specific to caliber on the inside dimensions so that they dont jam up. Will I have any issues with 223 getting jammed up since it does not appear this part is caliber specific? Or would I need to get the dimensions for you? Thanks for your help!
Do you think you could modify the light barrier so that it is able to be moved for caliber changes to a different drop tube?
My thought would be have the drop tube with 5mm holes for the sensors, the light barrier sensors would be housed in a collar that would slide over the drop tube and be aligned by a small groove. That way you could hot glue the sensors into place and move them between drop tubes with ease. Should this sound interesting I'd love it if you started with 10mm verision
first of all great work and thanks for everything. I am using your design and having issues with .223 bullets. When they come out of the collator and get ready to go down the spring the bullets get stock (see pic below). Any help or ideas would much appreciated
made a manual drive to test the bullet feederhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3002958
thanks! added it to "thing details".
I have a my bullet feeder up and running with 45ACP - or so I thought. I use plated bullets and never had any issues. A friend wanted me to help him with some of his, but he has cast bullets with lube. It seems as though the bullets end up sticking in the collator plate at times. Other times they end up wedged when they are trying to be inverted. This lifts the plate and I have to pry them out. They end up cut down the middle by the ramp that would normally upright them. Does anyone have any experience with this or suggestions? I could make the collator plate larger by a 0.1mm if that could help or make the slots slightly larger.
Reply to Witz. I too use lead bullets in a Mr. Bulletfeeder. I use a powdered mica bullet lube that I purchased from GSI International as I have one of their bullet feeders. It does not completely correct the problem but it does help. Not sure if they still sell this as they seem to have stopped making the bulletfeeders and ignore my emails. I do not have have a source for this material yet but you might try Double Alpha as they suggest it. I am currently printing the BF in this project but have only had the printer for a month.
i made 2 bullet feeders so far , great projects . thanks for hard work making them!@ u.
I love your skills to be able to produce such projects i wish i had even 10% of your knowledge in designing this. I have a couple of questions. If i was to make for eg. 20% larger when i make the collator plates 20% larger will the notches that pick up the projectiles be also 20% larger and not work?, i am on a disability pension from awaiting back and neck surgery so only bought my printer to tinker and make my own items for my presses. So looking forward to achieve making these ideas you have)))..............Thanks buddy. Alan
thank you for your words! That won't work, because it will enlarge all holes. Send me a PM with the dimensions you want and I will see what I can do for you. Good luck for your surgery!
Thanks for the reply Mike but maybe it would be just as easy to leave it the size it is. Once i have completed this project i am going to try making the case feeder too.
the design is good but no finger in the files
which drop tube do I need to print large and small bullets with a switch?
I think that I’ll use the big switch. Now if I am loading any other size bullet I will have to print a different size diameter drop tube that goes with that size bullet and large switch correct?
Basically yes. Depends a bit on the bullet's shape. But for example, a .45 ACP won't fit into that ID10 tube ;)
I have lots of questions and confusion on the drop tubes - for the different calibers. I would like to make a spreadsheet / matrix for the parts in your zip file - pertaining to :
Caliber | Drop Tube w/ ID | Switch Type | Spring Tube Type | Switch Type | Mfg Die
However; since I havent yet completed this stage I would need data and input from you or other users .... I realize it - like your Open project - it would be an ongoing and updated document. Not sure where it would live - be stored for easy access for all.
9mm | Drop Tube ID 10mm | bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id10mm_large_spring.stl | GEREE DC Light Switch |MBF Lrg | MBF Die
9mm | Drop Tube ID 10mm | bf_v2_drop_tube_switch_big_id10mm_large_spring.stl | Mouser 540-E22-85HX | MBF Lrg | MBF Die
9mm | Drop Tube ID 10mm | bf_v2_drop_tube_switch_small_id10mm_large_spring.stl | Link To Amazon | MBF Lrg | MBF Die
Ok thanks for the info. I bought a printer just to make this and I appreciate you designing and sharing with up.
depends on caliber and switch type.
for example: 9mm = .355" (jacketed) or .356" (casted) = 9.017mm or 9.042mm, --> id10 (inner diameter=10mm).
There are two type of switches. A big one with diagonal fix holes. And a small one with parallel fix holes.
What is everyone using for the die? I cant find anything for actually placing the bullet here?? Am I missing something?
Semantics tripping you up here. You need a die to complete the chain for placing a bullet on the case for seating. This project allows you to orient and feed bullets into seating dies or into a sizer. It is a well thought out project and is steadily evolving.
This is an AWESOME project, in fact, it is the reason I bought a printer in the first place! However I am having issues getting my printer to print it and noticed I didn't have a die. I was hoping someone had designed one to complete this project with minimal purchases.
What printer do you have and what issues are you having?
Anyone body have a good guide, or video for setting it up with MRBF parts. If there is not one, I would like to document the process and write/create something to help others. Does anyone have this knowledge already that would like to assist in this endeavor. Please feel free to contact me via DM. I have access to high end recording equipment to make this happen.
Hi, I have a Hornaday LnL and I am planning on loading 9mm, .45 acp, 223, 308 and 6.5 CR. I have the MBF Motor, DAA Switch and MBF Bullet Feeding Dies. Here's a list of what I was planning on printing. Can someone verify that my list is complete and correct?
Drop Tube Switches
bf_v2_drop_tube_switch_small_id10mm_large_spring.stl (for 9mm)
bf_v2_drop_tube_switch_small_id13mm_large_spring.stl (for .45 acp)
bf_v2_drop_tube_switch_small_id6.5mm_small_spring.stl (for .223)
bf_v2_drop_tube_switch_small_id7.5mm_small_spring.stl (for 6.5 Creedmoor)
bf_v2_drop_tube_switch_small_id9mm_small_spring.stl (for .308)
bf_v2_electronic_housing_mount_left_side.stl OR (I still haven't figured out which side I want)
Thanks in advance!
Thanks for posting this ... used it for the basis of a spreadsheet matrix for the calibers you listed. Would like to add more calibers and add the stl files - switches / links to where to buy and misc matching stl files for the adapters connectors and MBF dies ...
Hi @ all
so i have the Bullet Feeder almost working BUT:
I need a working micro switch - i ordered 2 different but the force to activate the switch is too high - means the bullets stuck :-(
Can someone recommend a switch to get in Germany?
I searched now for over an hour but find nothing...
Thanks in advance
Thanks a lot Mike for developing this project.
I have ordered and received a motor and switch from MBF and just printed the drop tube for big switch 10mm size for 9mm. I have used the hornady bullet feeder die and am switched to the MBF die because the hornady does not do well with lead bullets. One thing I was thinking based on my experience with the hornady die is that there needs to be sufficient bullet weight to help seat the bullet in the case.
I was wondering if it would be possible to increase the either increase the height of the lower part of the drop tube until it widens out to attach to the MBF die to increase the number of bullets to help seat the bullet in the case.
Either the above or change the diameter of the lower part of the drop tube so we can glue a section of clear PVC and print an adapter to attach to the MBF die.
maybe this helps. If you need other dimensions, please send me a PM.
Mike, thanks for the above file, it is a little bit too tall for my printer (anycubic mega only prints to 205mm),and the extra length needs to be more toward the bottom instead of the top so there is more weight helping to seat the bullet.
First off thanks to Mike for this project!
I am wondering if someone has the file shown in the picture of the red spring housing with the clip (large size). The current file has a much longer tube with the clip at the end. Unless there was an issue with the design I would prefer the smaller height. Thanks!
Thanks Mike. I have the large DAA spring for 9MM. Looks like best option is large 13. Can someone confirm please?
For anyone wanting a mount to slide over the Dillon case feeder post on the Super 1050, I whipped this one up. My square tubing measured 1.020". Designed for a 3/8" rod, and 10-24 set screws.
And here's the mating part for the bowl, again, using 3/8" rod and 10-24 set screws. The part I modified had a hole that was too big for 3/8" rod, and the circular part printed like crap on my Prusa MK2, even with supports.
I'd recommend printing both of these parts with 100% infill.
Great! Will link it to the "thing description"! Thank you for you work!
Gotta be honest, I'm about to pull what's left of my hair out with the spring retention clip.
A 3mm pan head machine screw, which is what the JGY370 motor uses, has a head thickness of 2.4mm. Add to that 2mm of floor thickness, and subtract that from the total 10mm thickness of the current floor...or a cut out depth of 5.6mm. Cutting out an area of 35mm by 82mm would give sufficient area for the motor. This cut out would allow ~3/8" of the motor shaft to stick above the bowl surface.
From there, a standard 1/8" cross hole could be drilled into the shaft, using a standard 1/8" roll pin. However, a bushing would have to be printed or machined, as the plate hole is pretty large in comparison to the 6mm motor shaft.
use some motor couplings, like these ones. Drill a hole for a pin in the coupling an you are done. Then fix it to the motor's drive shaft. If you need another diameter in for the collator plate, use a drill or print a new one using the collator generator.
it should something like in the stl-file. (Don't print that, I won't hold the torque.)
I've actually robbed the motor out of my Hornady collator, and it bolts directly into the WH120-60KTYZ bowl that I started with. So, I've moved back that direction. Motor is slow as snot, but I'll buy a faster motor when I get this working. Issue I'm having now is it's jamming with Berry's .45 ACP 230 grains. Appears that there's not enough time for the drop between the collator plate and base. So, I'm going to print another collator plate and increase the diameter of the slot by 0.030".
Either that, or I had it tilted too much or too little.
sorry but i have to ask :-(
I printed the Base for the igarashi33G-312 motor and the collator plate 9mm luger.
Today i get my motor but the shaft is not long enough to reach the collator Plate ? Is that right ?
And which turning plate do i need for 9mm Bullets ?
Thanks in advance
Base down: bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide.stl
Nose down: bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_nose_down_v4_split.stl
Hi , will try it with a coupling.
This is an awesome Projekt - hope I'll get it to run :-)
Thank a lot
Thank you. You are welcome!
It will. Here is a picture of my OBF prototype with self milled brass coupling. The coupling must have exactly the same diameter as the collator plate!
i milled a brass coupling too. And what should say - the bullet feeder works now fine :-)
I just have to find a matching feederspring in Germany ....
glad to hear that! :) Good work!
INFO for fellow printer people.... Cura has this neat little button, "Mirror" and if you dont realize you picked it, then go to wait 22 hours for your print to come out, it might not work. Ask me how I know this..... LOL
Sorry Guys i need help, which plane i have to print for this engine?
I had one and was with uxcell off-center
Thank you, Thank you, thank you ^_^
Give me 10 minutes.
Will this bullet feeder work on a Dillon 650 press and if so what parts or files will I need to down load? Thanks
Ok for the spring housings they are numbered for the size of the spring that you use, unless im wrong. I have the large spring that is used on the Mr. bullet feeder it measures 15mm OD. The biggest spring housing is 13mm. will I be able to make the spring fit into that one even though its 2mm smaller?
It fit's the spring with 15mm OD. It's the inner tube that changes.
After I posted that message, I thought to myself that the spring housings are labeled for inner diameter. Thanks.
Guys sorry, but i need a little help. What those "id" in the name of files means?
Is there someone whou could do a quick list with links to parts from aliexpress i need and the right combination of files from the package for 9 mm?
So id9 for 9 mm? Or real diameter? So should i use id10 or 11 for 9 mm?
9mm = .0355" or .0356" = 9.017mm, --> id10
Agreed. I'm using id10 for 9mm and it works well.
With what switch? Could you post things you bought and parts you printed for these specific things?
Which one is small or big?https://www.aliexpress.com/item/XV-152-1C25-Hinge-Lever-Type-Miniature-Micro-Switch/32745542205.html?spm=2114.search0188.8.131.52c3c41svQC1e&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_5722815_10342_10343_10340_5722915_10341_5722615_10696_10084_10083_10618_10304_10307_10302_5722715_5711215_10059_308_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_5711315_5722515_10621_10620-5711215,searchweb201603_11,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=38db333b-fb56-429b-9072-5535cc92b4a6-25&algo_pvid=38db333b-fb56-429b-9072-5535cc92b4a6&priceBeautifyAB=0
No dimension saying which one is already big or still small :|
Here is what parts I made and purchased to do 9mm:
bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id10mm_large_spring.stl (only if you are doing the light barrier and not a micro switch to stop the motor)
bf_v2_mount_big_WH120.stl (I mounted it to a bolt coming out of my case feeder)
bf_v2_drop_tube_adapter_hornady_feeder_die.stl (I also made my own that I like a little better, but I'm switching to a Mr. Bullet Feeder Die because the Hornady isn't super reliable with the plated bullets I've been using)
I did not print an electronics box since I made my own to include the switches and LCD screen, etc. that I wanted.
Light barrier relay: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FXFMQRQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Speed controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RYKR83Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wing Nut to hold collator plate to the motor: https://www.mcmaster.com/#92625a108/=1cyzwiv (after a little red loctite and trimming the screw down, the plate fits over it snugly)
LED: I used a 5mm 3v LED and wired it off the Arduino I'm using so you'll want to find a 12v 5mm LED
If you are going to use a switch, maybe get the Mr. Bullet Feeder Switch? I like the light barrier myself but if you want a switch this one will be more expensive but you know it'll probably work: https://www.doublealpha.biz/mr-bulletfeeder-dropper-switch
And it will need several small screws that are described in the assembly directions.
Hope this is helpful!
I found this at home. I am already printing the base for jgy so this is ok. But next...sensor lj12a3-4-z/bx with that relay..can i use them?
Thank you. I will go thru this and i will come back :)
I ordered the switch from DAA (I know over priced but it was only $7 and I was already there and figured it would work well) but it seems to be a big switch. I was looking for a drop tube that is for big switches, 9mm rounds and the large spring but I don't seem to be able to find one in the list of parts.
I also bought the DAA extension large spring for this which measures 14.96mm outside diameter.
What drop tube should I use?
Also, getting this awesome feeder set up along with the new Dillion 650 I just bought. Any recommendations on the best bullet feed die to use with this project and the Dillion 650?
Is there one that also seats the bullet so I can keep one station open for the Dillion powder check?
10 mm ID drop tube for big switchhttps://www.thingiverse.com/download:4891443
Another awesome "Thing" designed and made by a most generous person Mike. I appreciate the work and continuous help you've given multiple people not only on Thingiverse, but on several other sites as well. I've followed your messages and conversations on several sites and admired how helpful you've always been, especially when encountering users who "expect" you to fix things or create things for them. Many people forget that you have other things in life to tend to. I wish I could donate more, but I wanted to at least donate what I could to show my appreciation for your project. Thanks again!
Hi! Thank you very much for your words and your generous donation!
A 2 day print time on the new 120mm base that about average? I know different printers can probably do it faster. I'm going to print at 40mm/s. Just curious if this print time is about average.
Everything is fine. Depending on your layer height it can take 1.5 - 2 days.
Thank you very much for this. This has been a very enjoyable project. Do you have any pictures of the build?....specifically the spring holder piece? I see the slots that look like it's setup for a "C" ring of some kind to secure the spring. What am I supposed to use?
there are some above.
Can you please let me know what about be required to setup on Hornady LnL AP? Ready to buy. I will be reloading 9,40,45 6.5 223 308
Need to know everything I would need listed out if possible. Thanks in advance.
hey ammo mike, made the .40 set up working great! started on 6.5 creedmoore, found that the bullet drop tube inside diameter is to small for bullet to drop through, also the 7mm. The 8mm will work but the viewing window is to large and the bullet will fall through. seems like a 7.5 would work or the 8 with a smaller window?
Hi UPDATE 2018/05/04
trying to wire up the light sensor I think I may have cooked the board is there a video on how to wire this up
Not mine, but give this a shot.
Hi Mike just wanted to give you an update I havent found my claipers to get you a diameter of the double alpha bullet feeder die I should be able to dig it out this weekend. I did end up printing a new part and using a drill to get the die to fit just made this drop tube solid so i had more room to work with. the only problem im having now is bullets are dropping nose down instead of tail down is there a fix for this i can look into? this is happening with .223 bullets.
I’m getting ready to purchase a printer so that I can start printing some parts for my dillan 650. Can some one tell me what the measurements are for the bullet feeder so that I get a printer that will print big enough. Thanks
Read the "thing details".
Haven't been on here in a short bit, looks like you changed the design for the base so they are all now 120mm tall?
Hi. That's true. I decided to go with the 120mm version to avoid further confusion.
Hi AmmoMike83 did you have the higher wall version of the dillon rod mount for the bf_v2_base_WH120_ET_ZGMP38?
It wasn't my part, but I made a larger Version of it.
Use bf_v2_mount_dillon_rod_WH120.stl and combine it with the bf_v2_mount_bolt_WH120.stl
The hole diameter for the bolt is 6mm. Feel free to drill it out to 8mm or a bolt, that's available for you.
What bullet drop dies are being used? Do I have to use the MBF dies or can I use something else?
MBF, RCBS. Tell me your die neck diameter and the switch type and I will create one for you.
The Hornady die is 12.10mm I.D. and 22.50mm O.D.
Thanks Mike. I ended up with a combination of MBF (308) and Hornady (9mm, 45ACP, 44Mag). Once I have the dies in hand, I'll post the diameters.
The top of the Hornady Drop die is 12.10mm I.D & 22.50mm O.D.
I am in the same boat lol
created an adapter for you guys:
Awesome! Thank you.
Fits like a glove! Many thanks
Thanks! That was so much faster than modeling a copy to modify it. I did make a set of adapters to use 1/2" flex conduit for the drop tube and adapt to your light barrier. Any chance of getting a solid file of only the light barrier? or I can send a copy of the adapter for incorporation. Also, have you considered making the light barrier sensors into a sleeve that mounts to the "light barrier tube"? That way the sensors can be permanently mounted and changed over during a caliber change,
Just want to mention great work
Anyone know which switch to use? The switch in the description is not available anywhere..or declared as a legacy product..
Can't find anything on mouser or RS-online with the same specs..
Zoro tool has this one, you would have to trim down the flap. Part # G4584991. Or I'm using part # G4716896 and having to trim down the flap
which drop tube do I need for the loadmaster using the switch and the MBF large spring ?
Wrong question. The drop tube is related to your feeder die and the caliber you want to use. It has nothing to do with the press.
i seen that there were a few different ones and was not sure if one of them would work for 9mm using the lee bullet feed system. i was able to figure it out. i used the factory bullet feed tube from lee, then i cut a small hole in the tube and mounted the micro switch. i ended up expanding the MBF spring and feeding it onto the lee drop tube.
Mike, One nit, I tried printing the hanging variable mounts last night so I can hang from side of Dillon and adjust angle. Good idea, but printing with your orientation (which I think is the only good way to print, leaves junk under the two cylinders unless support is added. I missed that and thankfully (I guess) my thermistor cable broke and stopped the print at 30%. I'm re-running with supports but you could increase diameter where it touches the base and it would eliminate the need for the supports.
changed the parts. I hope that is it what you wanted :)
Is there a certain file to use for a drop tube compatable with the double alpha bullet feeder die? Printed two and the hole for the die is too small used a dremel to open it a little but ended up breaking the tube because I couldn’t get the die in
Here is the photo
What's the diameter of your die?
Hello I printed up the light stop for my dropper need some help on how to wire it and what parts to get for it any help wood be grateful I never did this before and don't now what to get and how to wire thanks and thank to ammomike83 for all your hard work on making this happen
Parts are in the thing instructions.
Mike has been a huge help since I started this project thank you Mike. Did anyone use the DAA bullet feeder die? If so can someone please share pics I'm trying to get an idea on how the spring attaches to the die (still waiting on my die). I'm not sure if i need a switch housing I found a 12v power supply with inline power switch I'm going to use for now and see how that goes before I invest more money into this. Eventually I will get the leds and set up the light barrier. I did print out the small switch housing. Just dont understand how the switch housing connects to the spring pics in the instructions doesn't really show how its connected or what was used to connect them.
DAA bullet feeder die with drop tube and light barrier auto stop:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sH80AcEvQGM
That's the old design. The newer ones have 4 holes to put a clip or a wire through to hold the spring. The small spring housing is for rifle and the large spring housing for pistol bullets (see thing instructions)
ok the file I printed for the small switch housing is too big for the spring is this the wrong file for the tube? I know its not the light barrier that one will be printed later when i do the light barrier setup.
Some pictures would be nice. Use „add file“ option here in comments.
ok I will get them uploaded when i get home tonight
Thank you very much for your for and for this project. Can i ask for parts list for 9mm, Double Alpha motor and dillon 650 press? Im pretty confused about the names.
I guess that i need:
However than im lost about the turning plate, base, because it seems that base for double Alpha motor disappeared and about spring housing parts.
Sorry for dump questions.
bf_v2_collator_plate_9mmLuger - OK
bf_v2_drop_hole_plug - OK, if you want to go nose down. For base down it's not needed.
bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id10mm_large_spring - OK
bf_v2_electronic_housing_mount_left_side - You just need one of the electronic housings
bf_v2_electronic_housing_mount_right_side - You just need one of the electronic housings
bf_v2_flipper - OK
dillon_rod_mount_01 - OK
dillon_rod_mount_02 - OK
BASE: bf_v2_base_ET-ZGMP38_MBF.stl or bf_v2_base_WH120_ET-ZGMP38_MBF.stl if you want the version with a higher wall
ATP Base Down: bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide.stl
ATP Nose Down: bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_nose_down_v3_split.stl
Spring housing: bf_v2_spring_housing_large_new_id12.stl
Hi AmmoMike83 did you have the higher wall version of the dillon rod mount for the bf_v2_base_WH120_ET_ZGMP38?
Thanks a lot.
Thank you sir you are a big help I'll give it a try very soon I'm new to 3D printing
I am Mike and I am not that old ;)
Btw. go and load the new high resolution bases
Thank you for your help here are the screen pics
first of all, switch to "layer view", not "x-ray". Under "x-ray" everything seems to be hollow. Here are my settings. And deactivate that "maximum resolution" experimental feature.
What am I doing wrong using a cr-10s with Cura 3.2. Set to 80% infill, 4 wall count. Walls coming up Hollow and the box for The Flipper switch and spring is not printing. The box was trying to print after the walls started so it was not touching the base
"facilitating possible patent infringement issues"
So just to clarify something.....
Is Ammomike83, committing a patent infringement by offering a 3d image file of a similar designed unit? NO
Is Ammomike83, liable for someone taking this STL file, converting it over to a G-Code file, printing it, and then selling it commercially (which is a possible violation of your patent)? NO
Or are you just here to make a threat against Ammomike83 because you feel threatened that people are printing up this device and using it instead of buying your overpriced unit? YES
To be totally honest, Yes I have printed up a couple units. Yes I have told a BUNCH of my friends about it and they have printed up them too. You can buy a cheap Anet A8 printer, filament, the parts needed to complete it and save over $100 compared to buying a completed MBF.
Ammomike83 has gone out of his way to make sure that his design wasn't offered commercially. He has contacted multiple websites (including FaceBook) that had people selling this design and had them remove it.
I'm the inventor of Mr.Bulletfeeder and hold (2) valid US Patents that cover the collator design(s) you are making available... (1) for base down mode and (1) for point down mode. ( US 7,497,155 B2 and US 8,661,959 B2 )
Do you think it's a good idea to be facilitating possible patent infringement issues?
Rick, look at my reply above
thanks Ammo Mike, now witch base down turning plate do I use for 6.5 Creedmoor
Well I feel like I finally have my printer set up and working the way it should, so I should be printing these parts here in the next day or so. You said "wall count 4" in cure I see a setting call "wall line count" that is what you're talking about correct? Just making sure I'm going to use the correct setting. Also I thought about using "spiralize outer contour" thought that it might make the rounded walls of the feeder nice and smooth. Or will that not work the way i'm thinking?
In cura 3.2.1 it's called "Wall line count".
"Spiralize Outer Contour" aka. "Vase Mode". NO NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! READ THE PARAMETER DESCRIPTION BEFORE CLICKING!!!
Ok, I must have misinterpreted what the spiral contour does. I won't use it.
which turning plate do I use? I am printing the BF base, 40cal feeder plate. And thanks for a great project. My wife says something else for me to spend money on! LOL
or the solid version if you want to mill it youself.
Printed the bucket already and have the 9mm plate being printed as I write this. Kudos to Ammomike83 for giving us this project.
Printer used is Anet A6 with minimal mods, mirror for plate, ABL sensor and latest Marlin firmware. Material used is Hatchbox PLA.
I'll upload pics and video once I'm done. I will use an Arduino and other bits to control the motor, it will be quite cheap and will allow me to control the motor better as it will only turn on when the upper and lower sensor are open. Parts cost is less than USD10 and simple code to make the logic work.
I like the Idea with the Arduino. What do want to control with it?
To control the filling of the tube as well as detecting if something is out of wack and stopping the motor. The main function is to control the filling of the tube. The typical setup using a single micro switch works but the frequent start-stop cycles drive me insane. My Hornady case feeders got this mod first. It consists of an upper and a lower switch and Arduino bits.
The logic is to turn on the motor when both switches are made and the motor is off and to stop when both opened. An Arduino is used as the logic cannot be done with 2 switches alone as the motor state needs to be taken into consideration. Using a transistor logic circuit works as well but it is more complex and expensive than going with modules. Opto detector modules are less than USD1 and Nano clones for about USD3. These are Amazon prices and could be had for much less from Aliexpress.
I’ll create a page on my website and post more info and pics once done.
I look forward to your arduino based solution ... wold love to see it combined with a nema17 or similar motor for this application. Please be sure to post a link to site with progress.... Im not a super tech guru or anything but if i can assist in any way - would be glad to.
Do you have instructions/video on how you adapted the motor and shaft to work with the design? I have the same motor, but the shaft is too short and would like to see what you used to make it work
I got the jgy370. Ebay 371414432672
You have to create your own shaft. That plastic part won’t work, because of the high torgue. It is just for example purposes.
I was hoping that you had a parts list of what was used to create a working shaft assembly. Any idea what others are using to do this?
I have that same motor and what I did was to weld an iron plate on the shaft just to the size of the plate !!
how do you know what drop tubes and housings to use... 45 acp and 300 blk out
that's quite easy. First you have to decide which endstop you want to use:
for .45 ACP (11.43 mm) use a drop tube with 12 mm or 13 mm (depends on material shrinking) ID (inner diameter) and the big spring housing (12 mm ID for large pistol calibers)
for 300 blackout (7.8 mm) use a drop tube with 8 or 9 mm (depends on material shrinking) ID (inner diameter) and the small spring housing (10 mm ID for rifle calibers)
hope that helps!
Also, do you have any links for the light barrier and other Amazon parts? The links didn’t work. But then again maybe it’s just me. Thanks in advance.
Search pattern: 12v white LEDhttps://www.amazon.com/LAOMAO-Bulbs-White-Pre-Wired-Parties/dp/B00H98OS2W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522331838&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+white+LED
Search pattern: 12v controllerhttps://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-1803BKW-Controller-Adjustable-Driver/dp/B00RYKR83Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522331782&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+controller
Search pattern: GEREE DC 12V Light Control Switch The Photoresistorhttps://www.amazon.com/GEREE-Control-Switch-Photoresistor-Photosensitive/dp/B01FXFMQRQ/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1522331951&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=GEREE+DC+12V+Light+Control+Switch+The+Photoresistorhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FXFMQRQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's all mentioned in the "assembly instructions"
Thank you. Maybe it’s my Apple products then. It’s still just sending me to amazons Home page.
It takes you to Amazon and fills in the search box. Just click the search icon and voila!
Awesome!! Thank you so much for the fast reply!
Well I got the parts from my friends dad and they didn't turn put the best. I ended up buying a printer to try and do this stuff myself. I have a lot of learning still but hoping it's not that bad. I've been watching YouTube to get a good understanding of how these printers work, and it doesn't seem that bad. I know each brand of PLA is different but I have a question as to what measurments you guys use for wall thickness, layer height print and travel speed? When i imported the file into CURA it had layer height at .2mm wall thickness at .8mm print and travel speed at 14mm/s it's showing print time at 1 day 14hrs. Are these measurements around what you all used? I still have to run test for temp and stuff before I attempt to print these parts. Just trying to get a better understanding.
Layer Height 0.15 or 0.10
Shell thickness .8 for Wall and bottom/top
Infill Density 80% or more
Wall Count: 4
Generate support: off
build plate adhesion type: brim
brim width: 6 mm or 8 mm
Recommended filament temp for PLA - see spool
Recommended bed temp for PLA is 65-70 °C.
speed: depends on printer and used material
I need a drop_tube light file with the measurements;
16mm outside and inside about 10mm for the 9mm parabelum.
It is for the rcbs tip feeder.
Is it possible to create it?
Anyone stateside have a source for the pressure switch?
Switch (big): Mouser 540-E22-85HX (Operating Force: 0.01 N !!)
Any detailed pics of how the variable hang mount should be mated together? I used a rod inbetwen and hex bolts for set screws but Im not feeling super confident in it holding up over time.
I want to ask how you got your Anchor Drive on collator plate?
I have this motor https://www.aliexpress.com/item/EBOWAN-Mini-Electric-Metal-12V-DC-Gear-Motor-37MM-6-5RPM-Powerful-High-Torque-For-RC/32805608470.html?spm=a2g0s.90423184.108.40.206xarUd
Anchor what i found there has a diameter of 10mm but collator plate has a hole of only 8mm?
Did you raise the hole to 10mm or did you adjust it differently?
Thank you, Richard
the MBF motor I used comes with a premounted anchor.
You can use a drillbit, or use the "collator plate generator" and create your own plate with a 10mm anchor diameter.
I already wrote you email@example.com send phone number and i call you.
this is my production of bullets (10000pcs).
I could use those! :-)
Wow, those are beautiful! Great job! I'm interested in the copper plating too. How did you get it so nice?
where I know to order the ET-ZGMP38 engine
Wow. Nice! How do you copper plate them? Pm me please
See thingdetails. It’s the MBF motor.
How do you get the print to be smooth? My friends dad is printing these parts for me and they don't look as smooth as yours. Also which base plate should I use? Or is there not really a answer to that.
There is a split in your wall btw. Hope it wont fell apart.
I haven't seen these parts in person yet, only via pictures. Since my friends dad is printing them I'll have to ask him about it.
To learn how to 3D print I would suggest YouTube. It depends on dozens of parameters.
The question is, which motor your want to use or is available to you. The base plates are motor related (different holes). If you go with MBF Motor you also can decide between two wall heights (90/120mm).
I'm sorry I meant to ask what turning plate do I use? I noticed a hand full of designs and not sure which to go with. The base plate is already done, I went with the design for Mr. Bullet feeder motor.
For base down: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4620469
For nose down: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4687047
For self milling: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4670990
Hi Love this design, thanks for creating! Bought a 3d printer just so I could make this so, very new to 3d printing. Made a bunch of test prints and started by printing the 9mm drop tube w/ switch. My supports keep falling away during printing causing it to fail. Can anyone recommend the best way to print this? What orientation has been used?
im new to 3d aswell when i used s3d it didnt place the supports automatically i had to manually add them
I'm using Cura 3.2.1 and I've checked off the box to use supports and it is adding them. The problem is that the supports don't adhere to the bed well enough and they break away before the print is done so the printer is then trying to print the next lay of supports in mid air which of course won't work. Unfortunately this all happens before I get to the overhangs so the supports aren't supported by the overhang at all either. I'm going to try printing it "upside down" with the 9 closer to the bed to see if the shorter supports help. I've also slowed the print speed down to 50mm/s so we'll see how that works.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Try printing with "Build plate adhesion type: Brim" activated. Brim width 8mm. And check you bed level and temperature!
Thanks! I'll try the brim. I've checked the bed level and it seems to be spot on. I'm printing at 200c which is right in the mid range of the filament specs but I can try messing with that too.
For any one else having this issue, I was able to invert the part so that the "tabs" that hold the switch and the #9 is closer to the plate. This decreases the height of support that is needed. I also used support Horizontal Expansion and increased the support a bit to provide more surface area for the print. It seems to have worked and I was able to get the tube printed. I may print it again though and decrease the temps from 200C as it looks like there are a few cooling artifacts. It may also be a bit of z wobble but at least I got it to work.
tapa para evitar que las balas caigan por detras https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2832323
Cool. Thank you. I will add it to the parts list!
Im having issues finding a microswitch state side that is weak enough to no hang up the bullet. Can anyone post an amazon link to one that worked for them?
Thanks in Advance.
Compare the Datasheets. The "Operating Force" should be at 0.01 N
Thanks a ton! That definitely got me going in the right direction.
Ich have a problem with the feed ramp of the feeder. Sometimes my Bullets don't flip nose side up. I think it's because they are very flat at the nose. I tried to adjust the ramp but i don't get it to work... Does someone have a solution for me? that's the bullet: https://i.imgur.com/CUKJXZe.jpg It's a 9mm
Hi! Tilt angle of the bulletfeeder maybe? Should be between 35 and 45 degrees.
If I'm using the double alpha motor, what base plate file do I need so that the motor will bolt up? I noticed there are 6 different files all having different patterns and one without a hole for the bullet to drop through. Thanks.
Nvm I see the file that says "bullet feeder motor" one. But I am confused as to which "turning plate" file I need.
Im about to print one of these up. Might be your southern most feeder, located at the bottom of New Zealand!
Are the turning plates universal? Ie, I will be running this with 9mm and .40, will the same turning plate work for both?
If you look at the files, there are 9mm and .40 Cal specific plates along with a host of others.
I don't mean The collator. I mean the removable plate that turn each projectile that is nose down onto its side so it can be flipped by the ramp.
The turning plates aren’t caliber specific. They are adjusted to the caliber by pulling or putting them out of or into the bullet feeder.
as wjbirm mentioned correctly, the collator plates are (and have to be) caliber specific. The are all printed as: caliber (in mm) + 1.4 mm. If your are reloading 9mm and .357 e.g. you can use the 9mm collator plate for both. 9mm and .40 won't work, cause .40 is 10,16 mm. Print both, the 9mm and the .40.
Best wishes and good luck to New Zealand!
Thanks for the quick reply. I really appreciate it.
I don't mean The collator. I mean the removable plate that turn each projectile that is nose down onto its side so it can be flipped by the ramp.
There is not a turning plate for each caliber, there is one for nose up flipping and a couple for nose down flipping, one with a split design for adjustability.
What material is everyone using? 80% infill? Is that for all of the parts?
Standard PLA works fine. 80% infill for all parts is recommendable. You want everything be solid, when you put 2 pounds of lead bullets in it, believe me.
bf_v2_Hangmount does not work with the current bowl. The hang mount is not tall enough. Can the project manager correct this issue?
Can you please explain that further more?
Sure. On my printer, the bowl printed to 3.554" tall. The slot where the mount clips over the bowl is only 3.530" tall. Hence, the mount is not tall enough.
The bowl is exactly 90mm (3.543") high, not 3.554". To avoid a reprint of the base I changed the mount for you. The slot is a bit higher and wider now.
Thanks for the change... Printing it now. The difference in the measurements is literally, 0.011". One layer of print, in Slic3r, on my Prusa MK2s, is 0.2mm, or 0.007". It could be a slicing error, or a printer error. It is, after all, 450 layers of print. Or it could be a minor measurement error on my part.
Fits nicely now. Will be rock solid when I put the screws in the bottom. Thanks again.
I am glad to hear that! Just PL me, if you need something else!
I printed all the parts....and 2 plates... the 9mm and the 45 acp..... the 9mm works ok....but the 45 acp don't rotate when the bullet catch the holes nose up.....because the bullet have friction with the wall of the main base..... I was tinking that maybe was the filament ( i use 2 diferents colors for the plates and are diferent brand too)... but then I was thinking that the problem can be that I using the bullet feeder for feed a resizer and logically the bullets are lead and they are not resized yet so in the case of the 45 acp i have some boolits that have .459 and .460 in diameter.... And then I remembered that the test in 9mm was made with already resized boolits that I have ready to reload....
I was playing with the bullet plate generator, and made another 45acp plate but this don't work either because the boolit is Too loose.... and because is a not so tall boolit don't get the ramp that make it turn nose down....
So can you give me some tips about the parameters.... if have .459 .460 boolits that is 11.66mm 11.68mm do i have to put this value as caliber and add 1.5mm .... I used this values in the second plate: 12mm as caliber...add 1.5mm .....and that do not work (I reduced a little bit the diameter of the plate "collator_plate variable" too...maybe that was the mistake...).... and maybe will be recomendable give a lower height of plate value (because the boolits are not so tall).....I want to be sure so I don't want to have 3 unusable 45acp plates.... what do you thing....what parameters will you recommend....
Thanks in advance for any help....
by the way ...sorry my english ... I am from Ecuador....
I just had the exact same problem with my 45 plate. There isn't enough clearance between the bullets and the walls of the base. The bullets fit fine into the hole of the plate so I was planning on leaving that alone and changing the diameter of the plate, I just wasn't sure how much.
Hey guys. You are both definitely right. I rerendered the collator plates. 45 acp and the others are OK now. Sorry for these circumstances.
Reporting back on the springs from MC
They are stainless steel. 20 inches long which is about 4 inches longer than the MR Bs. They are 2 bucks more but in stock! I have put this one in place https://www.mcmaster.com/#9665K63 (302 Stainless Steel Extension Spring Stock, 20" Overall Length, 0.5" OD, 0.047" Wire Diameter) and the bullets slide down perfectly. I do not have a Mr. B to compare with. The spring I got from MC is much more flexible than the bending springs so I imagine very similar to the MR B. There is a great assortment of diameters and wire thickness so if someone posts that data from the recommended one they have (OD, ID and wire thickness) it should be easy to select a virtual identical one from MC. The one I have seems to work like a charm. MC site gives OD and wire diameter so ID is easy to calculate. MR B large is 12mm ID which if you subtract 2x the wire thickness from the 12.5mm (1/2inch) that I have from MC it seems to be in the ballpark for the large spring. I also got the next size down but have not played with it yet. Will report back with that when I get a chance. The wire diameter will also affect the stiffness of the spring and the ease by which it will bend. The extra 4 inches also gives you more flexibility as to where you can put the feeder.
My large MR B spring is 13mm ID 1mm wire 15mm OD
So the next 2 sizes are 14.3 OD and 15.8. The wire diam of 0.054 is 1.3mm and the 0.064 is 1.6mm so those would be close to the dimensions you have given.
I just checked my Hornady bullet feeder, which I hate... The spring wire they use on the large spring is 5/8", or 15.87mm. What's the ID of the MrB dies where the spring inserts? Will the 5/8" OD spring work?
What caliber projectiles are you testing with? How do they work with .45 ACP? A .453" ID (based on 0.5 OD and 0.047" wire) is cutting it pretty close on a .45 ACP projectile.
I am testing with 308. You may want to go up one size. I do not have any 45s to test
If i printed it so the hole is on the other side will it make any difference? Forgot my x axis is backwards.
Shouln't make any difference. You just have to change the polarity of your motor to make it run CCW.
This is a question for Gerard's instructions:
On the Bullet Feed Tube Portion:
In step 1 you mention to insert the "bullet feed bushing" into the aluminium into the tube mount. My question is I can't seem to find the "bullet feed bushing" in the thingiverse list nor my lee bullet feeder kit. Where do I find this "bullet feed bushing"?
In step 2 you mention to Place Bullet feed tube on top and around of the aluminum Lee bullet feed tube holder. How is this possible? The OD on the 3d printed bullet feeder tube is .82" and same with the OD on the aluminium bullet mount. How can the 3d printed part fit over the LEE aluminium part?
the instruction PDF is from Gerry. I am waiting for him uploading the parts that I can link them. He is the responsible for all the Lee parts mentioned.
Thanks! That makes a lot of sense. I was scratching my head at these missing parts. Great job, by the way.
First of all... THANK YOU ....awesome job....
Only one thing ,,,, in the assembly instructions from Gerry ,,, he used a mount bracket for a 3/4 square tube.... but I can't find this piece in the list of parts.... can you give me a link to this printable part please ?
that part is not really usable, cause it has no variable tilt angle. That means I will just work with one type of bullet. I uploaded you a 3/4 inch mount with variable tilt angle.https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4702555
I hope that will fit your needs.
Thanks a lot.... you are a great person.... the support of Gerry will work anyway because I regulate the angle with a little press where I am thinking to atach the tube.... in fact I use a piece of angle ( I already have a bullet feeder that I made manually with wood and a plastic recipient and some pieces of garbages...... but I want to try your design that I think is going to work better).... I am going to print your mount base and give it a try........or maybe I attached directly the angle to the part that is screwed to the base plate....and see what work better.. Again ..... thanks a lot,,,,
Hi im new to this I dont have a 3d printer my self but considering picking up one so i can make this and other things is there a step by step instructions to get this to work with a lee 4 hole turret press or a lee pro 1000 I want the new breech lock pro but im sure those plans are not available yet any help would be great
Hi david. Please read the thing instructions. In "thing-files" is a step by step Instruction for Lee Loadmaster from Gerry.
Mike I saw that but is it the same for all lee presses? I would think mounting would vary press to press
That depends on you. Be creative. There are several different mount available:
Sorry I am new to all of this. Is there like a step-by-step guide somewhere on how to assemble this thing and which parts I need to completely assemble it?
Awesome, thank you!
Man I just redrew the nose down plate. If mine does I will have to try yours! Thank you for sharing this
This is superb.
Thanks for all the hard work and keeping it updated. I have tried the 308 plate and it works well with 308 160gn boat tailed bullets. They drop in base first and then drop right down the tube I made with PEX.
FYI I have used red PEX (matches my press) tubing instead of the spring as they are out of stock. and the tubing bending springs seemed too strong. I used the springs and a hot air gun to bend it to shape and it works great. I am also ordering some springs from McMaster Carr to see how they do.
I also have some longer 30 cal bullets (30 06) that did not work as well but I will play around with your OPENSCAD collator software and see if I can get them to behave. If I do I will send you the update. Thanks so much for all of this.
Did you find the correct springs to use from McMaster-Carr?
Mike, congratulations for the awesome design and thanks for sharing with us !
Thank you, you are welcome!
hay links que no funcionan
repaired. the all refer to the thing files btw.
Modified the bullet drop tube to accept a proximity switch and will run my motor and rpm switch thru those. Bullets will ask as micro switch/ir switch
do you wanna share it? please PM me.
The link casefedeer it does not work
PROOF OF CONCEPT VIDEO NOSE DOWN CONVERSION
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iTjlmzJLz0 (by AmmoMike83)
Over 5.000 downloads!!! Awesome!!!
YOU are awesome, Mike! :P
Video of working light barrier auto stop:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sH80AcEvQGM
no fiddling with micro switches anymore :) drop tubes for 5 mm LEDs are online!
Light barrier controller: https://www.conrad.de/de/kemo-lichtschranke-b045-bausatz-191413.html
Great file and product u came up with there! In the process of printing everything out currently.
Was wondering, I’ve not gotten very good with modeling yet but a 6.5creedmore plate would be nice... or u think it’d work on the 308 plate? 6.5 is actually .264o.d. Just an idea.
Keep up the great work!
Oh yea... there a “bolt/screw/micro switch” needed parts list anywhere? Lol
Hi thank you.
Your link doesnt work.
mike i built a pnuematic bullet sizer and need to adapt a feeder to it. would you be willining to email me at firstname.lastname@example.org? i also built a bullet casting machine.could use you in my group of contacts phil hess in missouri
I have one on mine. Trying to get the bullet nose down worked out and let it go to town! I would love to see your design
Hey Mike, great design. I printed the offset motor base and it works great. My only question, how do you mount the base to the press with your mount? Is there anyway to hang it on the case feeder?
There is a "hang-in mount" available to mount it on your casefeeder. https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4617274
have fun guys!
There is no dedicated "mount" - the mount part (no 7 from below) is only a possibility to attach something to mount. Thereby this is a work in progress, Mike has not yet a universal mount. So, everyone has different setups, it is impossible to construct one solution that fits everybodies needs.
Depending on which motor you use, pipe clamps can be a possibility to attach it to the press. Or you can design a "hang on" solution and post it to the community?
I printed the MBF motor housing and it did not fit. It was close, but not close enough.. I can send dimensions if need be. Just hit me up.
Sure! Send me a message! Thank you!
Hi Mike, did he sent? I got the same problem. If you like I can measure and send you message. Das wäre kein Problem... :-)
i made this !!! cool thanks
what size bolts to use for bullet knock , bullet adj_turning_plate?
do have hardware size break down?
also which motor on amazon need exact one for need,( motor part # number or spec )? how many rpm?
v2 motor anchor dose fit the the 45 or 9mm plate - i noticed this! it is to big slide into the hole on plates
any one have clue where get get springs as mr bullet for bullet drop line?
you can buy the spring and motor directly from daa
please save it in format stp ? inventor program
you know how to do a Nose down conversion to a diameter of 300mm?
I know 3dprint 300mmx300mm
There is a nose down ATP available. I won't do a conversion to 300mm. The openSCAD-Files are online. Feel free to modify yourself.
Maybe I am a looking in the wrong place, but where do I find the openSCAD files? I only see the .STL files. Thanks
I did a redesign and deleted it for two reasons:
1.) it needs to be commented first
2.) I am pissed off of people selling this design on eBay for 100$
That totally sucks, but I get it. People should not be able to steal your work and sell it. Thanks for all of your hard work.
what base plate will work with the hornaday Lock and load press
What files do i need for that please
The plate is independent of the press. It only depends on the motor that is available to you and you want to use.
Does anyone know if the uxcell offset motor is strong enough to turn the collartor when it's full of bullets? I had a buddy print it for me until my cr10 arrives and now Im second guessing if it will work. He is out of state which makes it harder for him to reprint it.
Hey Mike. Great work. I've printed the Mr. Bulletfeeder unit twice now. The first time was before you updated your files. The mounting holes don't line up. I drilled out the holes until it fit.
That created another problem.. I have no way to mount the motor the nuts just pull out the bottom. Kinda like throwing a hot dog down a hallway. lol
Also.. Anything sticking up off the bottom the bullet plate hits it as it turns.
Are you using the actual Mr bullet feeder motor or a knock off?
I'm using all original parts. I ordered Motor, Dc power supply, Trip switch, Wiring harness and Drop tube.
I'm using the wiring harness and bullet trip switch on a different 3d printed bullet feeder and a couple of parts of my design with the Hornady bullet feed die
Like the others, i begin with a thank you for your work.
I analyzed and started printing some of the piece of the bullet feeder : 30h just for the plate (Anet A8, 0.15mm, 60% infill), it's a lot of unbroken time, maybe separate the plate from the "shield" like the MrBulletFeeder did ?
Also, for perfectly work, it's need to be 45° inclination and your support can't do that. I'm searching for model to do that, i'll do a remix if i find a way to do !
If you are using Simpfily3D. I don't about cura or the other slicers. Sorry
You can go in your "infill tab"
Under "Internal and External Fill Pattern" Select "Rectilinear" for both.
On the right side under "Internal infill angel offsets" add these numbers
Under "External infill angel offsets"
What this does is stack you infill at different angles.
I print these with 30% infill probably could go less. At 30%. The two I've printed is tougher then a set of woodpecker lips. Lol
thank you. You can find the openSCAD file in your downloaded files. Feel free to modify.
I don't know what you mean by support, but the mount has a hole for a rod, like the MrBulletFeeder has, so you can turn the whole thing 360 degrees.
I love all the work you've put into this - can i ask for the final dimensions of the collator as Im not sure that the printer i have access to is big enough
the dimensions for the base plate are: 173.0 x 155.7 x 90.0 mm
Thanks for all the hard work on this!! I am having this printed off and will be assembling it myself but I wanted to see if you have any completed videos/pics that show the complete feeder with the switches and light barrier kit installed? Thanks again!
Printing mine over the last couple of days. Looks great so far. Will a 40 caliber plate be coming?
the .45ACP should work fine.
I am curious if the bullet plates can be used with a Mr Bullet feeder since I already have one of those. Or will modifications have to be made?
Don't know if you've got an answer to your question. AmmoMike's plates are a hair to small.
A Dia. of 5.950 works well for Mr. Bullet Feeder plates
I added an easy to use collator plate generator. It can be used to generate Mr. Bulletfeeder collator plates aswell. Have fun.
I don't have a Mr Bullet feeder, but the openSCAD file is online. Feel free to modify.
Could you please add plans for "nose down" bullet turning plate? Pretty please.
Thank you very much.
that thing is online since nov. 28th.https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4380281
There ara so many parts in this file.
what parts do i need for 9mm bullets?
Hi Zonec, you will need the:
Base Plate, depending on the motor you wanna use
What is the difference of
The first one is for a light barrier DIY Set, so that the motor can be turned of when a attached tube is full of bullets. The second one is for a micro switch doing the same. But you need it for similar calibers each. The light barrier is more versatile.
hey i got it all printed up and it seems great need to put it all together. I did have to modify the motor anchor for the Greartisan Motor i bought off amazon. It fits the base perfectly but the motor anchor was too tight. I have attached a perfect fit for it if you want to post it.
Practical question: will the .45 plate work with .44 Mag bullets? Does the 0.25mm smaller diameter matter?
That will work.
"isch habe fertig" - :P allerdings erst mal die Version für .223. Der Motor und Sensor liegen bereit. Erster Testlauf zeigte, dass der Flansch für den Motor zu schwach ist - hier werde ich was aus Metall basteln müssen. Oder ich muss ihn fest verkleben...
Wo ich noch etwas grübele ist der Anschluss der Matrize des MrBulletfeeder Mini - wie hast Du das gelöst im Detail? Gibt es da eventuell ein Foto?
Die Drop Tube passt bei mir übrigens nicht in das Gehäuse. Der Durchmesser ist zu groß respektive am Gehäuse zu klein. Aber dass kann natürlich auch an meinem Druck liegen. Ist zwar kalibriert auf 0,0x in allen drei Richtungen aber möglicherweise habe ich da beim Drehen im Slicer was falsch gemacht. Werde ich schon noch passend machen :D
Wie hast Du den Sensor von Conrad da eigentlich angebracht? Bei mir passen die Platinen nicht zwischen die beiden Platten. Ich würde die erstmal mit einem Gummiband jeweils außen befestigen (möglicherweise ist das sogar so gedacht?). Hast Du da mal ein Foto wie Du das gelöst hast?
Trotzdem ein super Design und sehr vielversprechend!
den Motoranker habe ich auch aus Metall gemacht. Die Alternative wäre den Mr. Bulletfeeder Mini Motor zu benutzen. Bei diesem ist schon alles fest verbaut.
Anschluss Matrize an BF Mini habe ich noch nicht gemacht. Müsste mit einer Spiralfeder gehen.
Bei Kreisen drucken die meisten 3D-Drucker immer zu eng, da hilft nur schleifen. Ich habe es im Konstruktionsmodell übereinandergelegt und kann dir versichern, dass es press sitzt ;)
Die Platinen der Lichtschranke kommen außen auf die Platten. Eventuell kann man auch Kabel an die LED löten und dann die Elektronik sonst wo hin packen. Ich habe aber gelesen, dass es dann zu Problemen mit der Erkennung kommen kann.
What about a base using mr bullet feeder motor?
Do you have any measurements for me?
4 mounting screws ~4.66 mm dia
horizontal distance center to center of screws ~60.6 mm
vertical distance center to center of screws ~63.6mm
shaft diameter 8mm
horizontal distance from center of upper left screw to center of shaft ~19.2mm
vertical distance from center of upper left screw to center of shaft ~30.3mm
Hi! I uploaded it. Could you please check and verify? Thank you!
I was only able to get 2 screws to line up, probably enough to mount it. Haven't had good luck printing the bases.
I ordered a motor and corrected the measurements. Should work now. Otherwise there are different types of motors out there.
Going to print it up and get the components for my Dad for Xmas could you recommend the proper light barrier i could use. need US availability. Thanks again.
Donations will surely come your way on this one.
thank you. That's the one I use:http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/191710/Light-barrier-Assembly-kit-Conrad-Components-191710-12-Vdc-15-Vdc-5-m?ref=searchDetail
You will need one, where you can switch between NO and NC at the relais.
do you think this would workhttps://www.amazon.com/uxcell-LJ12A3-4-Z-Inductive-Proximity-Sensor/dp/B00S50O152/ref=pd_sbs_328_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N9GVSGZDD5SDSV8FVZJR
or better off with thishttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAH7DTQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AL9EOPF8NQBP&psc=1