AR 15 Magwell

by kwongkan Aug 31, 2017
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The devil loads the weapons and the stupid one unloadsss

hi there ... will this fit a S&W M&P 15-22 ? if not ... would you be able to make me a .STL please ... happy to pay for a direct fit for my AR ... thanks :)

I'm not sure....... eyeballed some photos, the lower and magazine very close to a .223 AR, it might fit

i found this for sale on Etsy. Do you go by 559Designz? same pictures and all. i just wanted to ask

Nope, not me, but I think that item is compliant to the CC license, even printing and selling, as long as the source (this thing page) is cited.

That means it's fine if you want to do the same, I would appreciate some beers if it sell well LOL

Thanks for the heads up, anyway :)

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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This is perfect! Fits like a glove on the real thing. The ability to print in different colors so I can identify the different calibers right off is even better.

Does it fit on airsoft m4?

It is modelled after real forged AR15 lower, so anything with same size/shape should fit:
Most GBB, if not all, the one I used in the photos is a VFC Mk12, I assume others will fit (WE, GHK, etc.)
and of coz Systema PTW

probably won't fit non-PTW AEGs and anything billet style

I created two pins to go into the rear holes to retain the magwell in place.

What is the best way to print this? I feel like how it is oriendted in the preview would be best for strength. But his photograph shows he printed it a different orientation...

I used mine (the one in the photos, printed in PLA) in a match or two plus few practice sessions, did slam mags against the lip at few places and it dent / de-laminate a very little bit, ugly but didn't affect its function.

Please note that I shoot airsoft 3GN so I don't have that strong follower spring in real ARs, as the force required to sit the mag is relatively small, so not that much damage if I accidentally hit the lip.

With all said that I still recommend to print the model flat against it's base (rotate 5 or 95 degree depending your slicer), at least 3~4 perimeters, PETG or ABS if possible (test and slightly enlarge model if it shrinks).
Also don't forget the 2 set screws, if you print it "standing" the layers might probably split around the screw holes.

BTW, a wild thought, would you real AR guys want imperial sized screw holes?
But if you're messing with 3D printers or even RC models you shouldn't have trouble acquiring metric set screws, I believe.

could you make it where a second piece keyed in to the grub screw to eliminate marring the metal? that way there was no metal on metal contact?

Just uploaded an experimental version, my printer is currently running so testing would have to wait, download and test for yourself if you can't wait lol.

looks great! exactly what i imagined.

Good point, will look into it.

Do you have it in solidworks?

This is modeled in Fusion 360, I can import Solidworks file into it but not sure about the other way around.

can be in Fusion even