Magnetic Dice Box, Tray, and Tower

by platcham Sep 1, 2017
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For the slicing in CURA, have you tried turning off the bed adhesion settings, skirt/brim? I was having a similar problem on a model that should just fit my build plate and when I did this it worked out fine. CURA obviously counts the skirt as part of the build. To get the flow started I started the print and when it began to lay down filament I stopped it, removed the small amount and restated the print very quickly. All good.

I did that originally, even when set to "none" it reserves about 0.4mm of the edge. This may not be true in the newer versions of Cura though.

Anyone have a working application to make the wood grain texture?

Sorry, they changed the website. Here is an updated link: https://www.tecrd.com/tools/stl_wood/

Just printed the drawer and bottom. It definitely fits tightly. The drawer doesn't move easily and sticks out slightly. It will require sanding to fit properly most likely. I seems like the tolerances between parts could be increased slightly to avoid this.

The pegs of the bottom are incredibly thin and with the wood PLA pretty much snapped off with the slightest touch. Not sure if they are necessary though once the two parts are superglued.

Edit 1: Finished the top now. Noticed that for me at least, none of the magnets fit easily, I've had to carve them out slightly with a Dremel to make them larger. The drawer fits better after sanding but it sticks out of the bottom slightly, which will make positioning the top impossible without considerably more sanding of the drawer.

Edit 2: First tower piece printed. Again fit is quite tight but I suspect it will improve with a bit of sanding. Hoping everything will fit nicely together once the moving pieces are sanded down a fair bit. Currently worried the drawer will require quite a bit of sanding before the top will fit snugly to the bottom. Will post the finished product when done.

Edit 3: So the box parts just fit too tightly to be usable. Even with significant sanding the parts barely fit. The top and bottom compress the drawer so it does not slide well and the tower pieces fit so tightly that removing them is basically impossible In both cases this is only after considerable sanding work on these pieces to try to get them to fit.

I suppose it could be my printer settings, but it looks to me like the parts meant to fit together have no tolerances between them so one piece is exactly the size of the vacant space in another piece. I've noticed this problem with other 3D models though I have not loaded these pieces into an editor to verify this yet.

I'd suggest about 0.1-0.2mm would probably be enough. I may try remixing this to check for and add some tolerances and try again.

I had the exact same issues. I was really excited about this print and was really disappointed when it was finished. It took so long to print, used so much filament and to have it not work made me super grumpy. I redesigned the top tray to fit on the dice drawer/tray. It has a 5mm overhang around 3 sides and gives more surface area for glue. Platcham, keep tweaking your design! We want this one to work!!!

Could I ask which part you are having trouble with? Is the drawer not fitting well, or the pegs not working? I will admit that I haven't printed the model myself since the 3rd revision, I might have to have another go at it to further iron out any bugs.

Platcham, I want to thank you for all your quick responses! I love this design and it's worth tweaking.
Here are the things I would change:
-- Make the dice drawer 1-2mm shorter. There isn't any clearance between it and the top tray.
-- The pegs/holes are so small that I don't think anyone's printer is exact enough to make them work. Plus the thinness of the pegs makes them break almost immediately.
-- The tower pieces were too big to fit in the top tray. Making the inside of the tray 2mm wider both X & Y would do it, and there is plenty of wall thickness to accommodate slightly thinner walls.

This print has been my nemesis. Those issues, issues with my filament (Ziro marble), issues with my printer (I decided to stop messing around and bought a LulzBot TAZ6), teaching myself to use Fusion 360, and I finally can take my build to D&D game night tonight!

Thanks again!!

I've slightly tweaked the tray bottom to give more vertical tolerance for the drawer, but it sounds like it won't be enough tolerance for your machine. I'd rather not go too much larger on the tolerances, as then the parts start to feel loose and rattle around.

If you are still having trouble, I'd recommend printing the drawer and tower at 99%. This should theoretically give an extra 1mm gap on each edge (which is rather large). If you don't want to reprint, sanding is pretty much the only way, but it will give you the best fit in the end.

If you do want to go all out and tweak the source files, the latest version is available in the downloads section.

Sorry you are having so much trouble with the design, I hope it works out for you!

Sorry it's given you so much trouble! There is actually a 0.2 mm tolerance on all sides of the drawer if I remember correctly. Depending on your printers' tolerances though, it might be necessary to undersize drawer a bit if it's not fitting as is. As for the magnet holes, the vertically oriented ones have a 0.4mm tolerance as well, though my printer also struggled printing them correctly, leading to me drilling them out slightly. I'm afraid to increase them more however, as those with extremely well tuned printers would end up with grossly oversized holes.

I hope you were able to get it working! And sorry for such a late reply!

I believe I may have had an over extrusion problem when I printed originally. I have not had a chance to print it again but will do so soon and let you know.

Thanks for the reply, I was hoping it was something as simple as that, so when you printed it, or in your opinion would I need something as dramatic as 95% or something like 98% scale?

It really depends on your printer. Mine it works with 100%, 98% would probably be safest if you are worried about a tight fit. I'd only go to 95% if you were still having issues with 98%.

Great! I have a MK3s so I am not too concerned about it, but I think Ill got for 98% and I can sand from there. Thank you!

Good Evening,

I just wanted to ask about your experience with this print. Did you shave off the model in a program? Or did you adjust your scale for the drawer in a slicer?

The best way I've found is just to set the scale a little smaller for the drawer or tower pieces, depending on what you are having trouble with. I suppose you could also use something like 3d builder or meshmixer to shave off the sides instead, that would help if your dice are close to the 28mm width of the slots in the drawer.

Hey, I'm having a hard time trying to get this to come out right, I have the same printer as you, the maker select v2, so I was wondering what settings you used in slic3r prusa edition?

I just shaved off 1mm per side of the tray, the internal side.

I don't remember specifically (I normally use Cura), but the basic settings were 210 degrees, 0.2mm layers, 15% infill, 40mm/s print speed, no supports or rafts. Those are my standards for wood filament.

Note that you can apparently use cura for a full print surface now, following the directions at this link:

While still waiting for my laser cutter I decided to print this first. I got the tray top and tower front and back done but the tower does not fit in the tray top. any tips on how to get these to fit together?

Hmm I haven't had that issue before. Did you scale them in your slicer before you printed them? How close is the fit? Unfortunately you'll either have to sand down the tower pieces or reprint them with scaling.

I just finished a the full print and am having the same issue. The towers do not fit in the tray top length wise. The width is just fine. I measured the Tower at being 192mm and in the tray top at 189mm. I am going to reprint the towers and scale them down to make them fit.

Edit: After putting the towers in the slicer, the tower comes up as being 189mm in length. Looks like i need to calibrate my Z axis on my printer?

So I did some google searching and found that the Z steps/MM is supposed to be set at 400steps/mm. I found that from the factory, they shipped it with the wong value as shown in the picture. Hope this helps.

No, No scaling and it is super tight. I am thinking a reprint is more necessary then sanding, It would take quite a bit. But thank you.

What scale did you use for the towers to get them to fit?

Hi, I really like your design. Can you please tell me how you put hte magnets there so they won't come out? Thank you

I just used superglue to keep them in place.

Greetings, I am about to get a laser cutter and would love to try this on the laser cutter. do you have any experience with laser cutters or how I might go about converting this into a laser cut piece? TIA

Unfortunately I don't have any experience with laser cutters, so I'm not sure how you could convert this piece. I do have the source files available on the download page though, so you're free to experiment! Let me know if you get it to work!

Thanks for the quick response. No worries I will grab the original files and see how to do this.

I saw this beautiful creation used by a player at my table during gencon at the pathfinder 2.0 playtest. I decided I absolutely needed one for myself and asked where it came from. After being directed here I immediately went home and bought a 3D printer to try to recreate this beautiful masterpiece for myself. Unfortunately 3D printing is even from a guide seems to be a lot more complicated than I was hoping it would be. After some initial trial and error during setup I finally thought I had everything going well including getting a couple test pieces done. However when I made my attempt to start the tray base it turned in to a spaghetti mess attached. I messed around with some settings and managed to fix the initial base warp my first attempt suffered from, but it still evolved into the same spaghetti mess at about the same point. Any ideas what I can do to fix it? https://m.imgur.com/gallery/LGl2s2i

I'm glad you like the design! Is that picture from the same print, or two separate prints? If it's from the same print, it looks like you have some bad layer shifts happening. That can be fixed by tightening the belts most times. (different belt tensioner designs can be found on Thingiverse, or your printer might have its own.) For the warping, you can try using blue tape on your print bed or gluestick to help with adhesion. A properly leveled bed is also essential for a print with this big of a base.

Unfortunately, it's a bit hard to help without knowing your exact settings. I'd recommend heading over to reddit.com/r/3Dprinting. If you post all of your slicer settings there they can help. (read the wiki first, it contains helpful troubleshooting tips and tells you what to include when you ask for help)

Good luck with the design, and welcome to the community!

That is the second print. My first attempt did the same thing at the same place. But it also had a warping issue that I managed to fix by upping the temperature of the bed. Will check all of the belts and such and hopefully that fixes things

I'm getting underextrusion on top layers when using the wood grain tool with a .6mm nozzle. Do you have any experience with that, or know a fix?

EDIT: S3D didn't pick it up at all, but Cura shows the extruder paths for the top and bottom being way too sparse. https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/320763547560706048/478783206687113226/unknown.png

EDIT AGAIN: I think Cura might just do this with all .6mm sliced parts, at least when sliced in S3D?

Hmm, that's strange. I don't have any experience with .6mm nozzles. Is the nozzle diameter set to .6 in cura? That'd be the only thing I could think of.

How much filament does it take to print the whole thing?

About 800g if all parts work correctly the first time. I ended up using a full roll of 1kg due to some print errors.

What outline settings did you use? S3D is saying that all of it is gonna use a little over 1kg with 3 top and bottom walls and 2 perimeters

Hmm, that's strange. I think I did 2 or 3 perimeters, 4 top/bottom layers. I did pretty low infill, only 15%

In the process of printing this and it's looking amazing. Having great results with Hatchbox Woodfill PLA. I found out why Cura won't let you slice the full 200mm top/bottom pieces. See this post:


I printed drawer, front and back all in Cura (0.4 nozzle, 0.3resolution, 0.8 walls for drawer, 1.2 walls for front/back, 15% infill.) on my PEI bed but since I didn't install it to get the full 200mm I'm having to go back to the stock buildtak for top/bottom. Hoping those come out well too.

Amazing models\print. Thanks for sharing!

Yeah, more recent versions of cura might work better. When I printed it I could only get up to 198mm, even with brim/skirt turned off. Could've been my support settings though. Hope your print turns out OK!

If you read the specific linked post, I don't think it matters which version of Cura you're using. It's a bunch of addition settings some of which most people probably didn't know exist:

"To get the full build volume of 200x200, you need:

  • adhesion type = brim

  • brim line count = 0

  • travel avoid distance = 0

  • horizontal expansion = 0

  • support horizontal expansion = 0 (if support is enabled)

  • draft shield disabled

  • ooze shield disabled

  • infill wipe distance = 0"

My print is done. The Front\Back didn't want to fit into Top without A LOT of sanding, but I finally got them in there with a bit of a tight fit. It looks and feels amazing. My drawer is a bit skewed so it sticks out a bit but otherwise loving it. Haven't committed to staining it yet, but I most likely will.

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What speed is recommended for this print?

I did 40mm/s for the wood Filament, but I've done 60mm/s for regular pla. It really depends on your material and printer.

I am brand new to 3d printing haha, just finished making my mk3 this past weekend, I also got some colorfabb wood filament. Idk if that would let me do it faster or not. but 40mm/s doesn't seem too bad.

I suggest printing the drawer last. My 2 parts that hold the drawer warped a little and it would not long fit. So i have to make it a little less tall.

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I printed this out and it looks great! The only problem, however, is I screwed up and installed the magnets wrong. Any chance you could write up a recommendation on what polarities to use where?

I added a couple of photos with the recommended polarities. Just make sure to keep track of what direction on the magnets you are calling "North" or "South". Hope this helps!

I appreciate it! I was actually printing the variant with the other magnet size, but seeing as you've updated this version more recently, I've ordered some 8x1 magnets and will be printing this one!

I realize I could also just resize the magnet holes as you described, but I tend to prefer building things as designed.

What Is the size of magnets??? Thanks for this great print

8mm diameter, 1mm depth

I absolutely love this thing! Well, I think I would. I know next to nothing about 3D printing/printers, and don't know anyone that has one, either.

I followed some links from here to a couple of sites where you can upload the files and get quotes for the job, but I was overwhelmed by the prices. $60-$80 per piece, with what I assume is no-frills materials and whatnot. Is this pretty standard for this kind of thing? I love my D&D nights, I'm just not sure I "$300 to stylishly roll/store dice" love it, ya know? And again, this is all new to me, I understand materials and time cost money, and I in no way want to diminish anyone's design or craftsmanship. Maybe I just don't have enough perspective on the task yet. This tower looks wicked cool, and props to 'platcham' for all the style and functionality evident in its design.

I would appreciate any insight from folks who have made this, or had it made. What were your costs? Is there some other avenue I can pursue that might lead me to a printer owner willing to create some version of this for me, possibly for a slightly lower price?

Thanks a bunch!

Glad you like it! Yeah, getting designs printed online can be rather expensive. I can tell you that this design takes about a roll (1kg) of plastic (maybe a little less, I had a few failures). For normal PLA, that's about $20 in materials, for wood PLA it's about $30-40. So that's raw cost, then the whole design takes about 20-30 hours to print.

As for getting it printed cheaper, you could see if anyone on reddit.com/r/3dprintmything could quote you a better price. (see the rules on the sidebar for requests). Typically the online retailers are a bit spendy.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

Hey @platcham how did this take 20-30 hours at 40mm/s?

I just sliced only the 2 tower pieces up in Cura and it's gonna take me 19 hours at 50-60mm/s

Sorry, that's a typo. With wood Filament at 40mm/s I think I was around 65 hours. Using plain pla at 60mm/s I think I was at around 45 hours ish? To he honest, I don't have an exact number as I did each piece overnight. It took me about 4 days total for the original.

1 down adding the magnets now. 6 to go.... Just going with solid color filaments though. 7 boxes in hatchbox wood would be expensive.

What filament did you use? I was wanting to try this with a wood PLA. I am trying to find the wood PLA that changes colors with different extrusion temperatures. How did you finish this

Hatchbox wood pla, as noted in description. Finishing, I sanded up to 220 grit then used a wood stain, let it dry for a day or 2.

So the grain appearance I see is just from the brush strokes from the stain?

Edit: I just re-read the description. Thanks!

How much material did making this whole thing use?

My final box was around 750g, though I used a full kilogram with a couple failed prints.

That's great, thanks for the info!

Is there any chance you could resize the magnet holes to 6x3mm or point me in the direction of a way I might be able to do that?

I'm new to editing STL files so just not sure how big of an undertaking that might be (or if the dimensions of the parts readily allow for it as-is); absolutely willing to add a bit of depth to accommodate the thicker magnets I have laying around, though :)

I've added a remix with 6x3mm magnet holes. I had to move some stuff around so it didn't cut into the dice ramp, but it should work. Let me know how it goes!

Here's the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2601649

Magnetic Dice Box, Tray, and Tower (6x3mm Magnets Version)

Finished printing both halves of the tower this morning-- the holes are perfect!

Awesome, I'm glad it worked out!

Wow, thank you so much! Will do :)

This is the coolest dice tower I have seen. I am new to 3d printing and I found the bottom sections to be too big for my 200 mm print bed. I have the monoprice Maker select plus and the bottom sections are just a hair too big for the printer. Has anyone else experienced this and is there a scaled down version to fit the bed without losing the ability to store the dice in the bottom.

What slicer are you using? I was able to print this on my maker select v2 using slic3r prusa edition, which let me use the full 200 mm. Cura wouldn't let me print it. Otherwise you can use mesh mixer to slice the base into 2 parts, then glue them together after printing.

I downloaded the slic3r prusa edition and what do you know the drawer fit on the bed. I am excited to print it out. Thank you again for the tower and quick response to my question.

Thanks for the info. I think I am using cura 2.7.0. My son is a little more knowledgable about this stuff I will ask him if he can help me fit it on the bed or slice it in half.

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There's a small flaw in the tower design I noticed and can see from your pics also. The tower has a -1° skew on each side it causing it to not line up and sit flat. The magnets need to be moved away from the edge by ~3 mm to compensate. You'll also have to change the bottom of the box magnets.

Could you tell me where you see this -1° skew? According to my modeling software, all of the faces on the tower are exactly 90° from each other. This also seems to be the case when I printed it, as far as I can tell.

Direct measurement. May be due to the cooling of the filament. If you look at your first picture, you can see how the tower doesn't line up "perfectly". I have the exact same picture to share. When laid on a CNC leveled steel plate, the -1° is apparent when put to a square. Both sides.

The model itself does not have the skew. In my print, it's actually skewed because I didn't get one of the magnets on the bottom of the tower flush, so it's sticking out a bit. The tower itself though is not skewed. If it's present in yours, it may be due to the shrinking of the material with the wood grain.

Could you make the holes on the vertical surfaces 0.25 mm larger to accommodate the wood texturing in the next version? Magent insertion for these holes is rough.

Loving the design of this, enjoying shit out of printing and assembling. I do have a suggestion about the "pins", get rid of them and replace them with holes that you can drop cut-off nails into. My pins didn't make it through the printing process due to the temperature variation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hA1HHP8XLrA

Same as mine. I would recommend making 1.75 holes to use bits of filament as the pins.

Drawer bottom.... https://youtu.be/SlW13HN7-IM if you have severe insomnia, this might help a bit.

How are the magnets affixed to the print? Are they press fitted or glued in place?

They are superglued in place.

Super! I first thought it was made of real wood!
By the way approximately how long did it take to print everything?

It took about 4 days for me. That was leaving stuff printing overnight and while I was at work. Actual print time was probably around 65 hours.

You were really passionate about this thing! :) Will try to print at some point in time.
Thank you for sharing!

This is incredible! I hope to make one soon!

What is the "online wood grain tool" that you used? I love the way that looks, I've never heard of a way to make wood grain with hatchbox, it looks really cool.

Original Technique is from this Thingiverse link. I used the online version hosted at this website. It sometimes failed for my larger files, but eventually worked pretty well. It randomly changes the temperature for the layers, giving it a burned wood grain look.

Generate wood patterns with temperature changes

Oh, awesome! Thanks for the quick response, I love that. Definitely gonna give it a try, thanks!