Belted Extruder V.4
The Belted Extruder v4 is a Geared Extruder using a GT2 Belt and Aluminium Pulleys for optiomal accuracy, resolution and power.
The BEv4 is an updated version of my Belted Extruder V3. The v3 uses larger bearings.
I just published the Belted Extruder v4 2.85/3mm extruder seperately.
I've been using the v3-4 for over a year and it's an extremely reliable design. My first one printed in PLA is still running!
Aside from countless users, I also know of several companies using these for their printer-farms by now, as they are very cheap to deploy and requires close to no maintenance.
What is a Belted Extruder and why is it build using Aluminium Pulleys?
- It is a geared extruder
- It uses 2 aluminium pulleys and a belt to drive the filament drivebit
- Silent running due to belt usage
- Higher accuracy and longelevity due to aluminium pulleys vs printed
- Design of printed parts to achieve rigidity and stability
- No hard to print gears which degrade and loose accuracy
- All parts used are readily available, so not forcing you to buy key components from me
- It measures 90mm by 52mm. All dimensions shown further down
Different models and features
There are different models/acessories uploaded. All centered around the standard model.
Defining changes to new models are listed seperately below the Belted Extruder V4 versions and BOM - standard features section further down on this page
Examples: ie: brackets for horizontal mounting and a version for GT2-200 belts + Version for 2.85mm/3mm filaments.
- I printed using a 0.4mm Nozzle
- I printed using 3 perimeters/borders
- Do not print with 1 or 2 perimeters
- The main Extruder part and Idler must have 50-70% infill depending on material used.
- Use a strong infill. In Cura I use Tetrahedral
- Do not skimp on infill. Infill matters for rigidity, which is important
- Used 4 top/bottom layers. Meanig 0.8mm each
- All the other parts is printed with 100% infill - important
- The 2x8mmSpacer is printed 2 times, while all other parts are printed 1 time each
Get the scaling right
In order to save both time and filament I've added a file named "BEv4-DimensionsTesting.stl" which you should print as it is and check your Bearings fit in snugly.
Print it using the settings described in Print Settings above.
Scale it as needed and then use the same scaling for the main printer part as well.
It has build in Support, so no support needed.
I print mine at 100% and so should you, if you have an accurate printer.
As a bonus I've added the file "BEv4-DimensionsTesting-Multi.3mf" where the support pieces are seperate, so they can be printed using a seperate extruder.
This is a test and I have not had time to test it myself yet
Render of the BEv4-DimensionsTesting used to get the scaling right.
Belted Extruder V4 versions and BOM
Standard features - BOM
- 1x 60-GT2 aluminium pulley
- 1x 16-GT2 Pulley for the small gear, which gives a ratio of 1:3.75
- you can use a 20-GT2 pulley for 1:3 ratio
- Strongly advice you to buy the Hobb-Goblin - 8mm Hobbed Shaft Kit from E3D - you can also buy it from Filastruder if that is easier for you.
All necessary nuts and spacers for the filamentdrive assembly are included when buying these
- 2x Push-fittings with 6mm thread for 1,75mm filament
- Make sure the filament can pass all the way through it!
- 172-GT2 Belt needed - 172mm/86 teeth
- A Nema 17 motor
- 3x 688 bearings. 8x16x5 - Type doesn't matter.
- 1x m3 25mm Rounded Head screw - for Idler
- 1x m3 15mm Rounded Head screw - for Idler bearing
- 1x m3 40mm Partially Threaded Socket Head screw - for Tightener
- 1x 10mm steel spring - for Tightener
- 6x m3 nuts
- 4x m3 Rounded Head screw - for motor
- 4x m3 spacers - for motor
- Build in mount points on 2 sides. Compatible with standard Nema 17 brackets - 31mm mount hole distance from center to center.
- Optional: A drop of Wood Glue, or similar. Not Superglue, and most assuredly not threadlocker as it eats away plastic
If you find it a chore sourcing the parts yourself, you can buy a set from me. It’s not really that expensive to ship in the EU anymore. Not sure about the US and other parts of the world.
Standard - Model without build in support
The file BEv4-std-NoSupport is the same as the standard, but without build in supports.
Mounting Brackets for Standard version
These brackets only varies in StdBracket_3mm.stl use m3 screws, and StdBracket-5mm.stl using 5mm nuts.
Intended for horizontal mounting on 2020 or similar Extrusions.
Render of StdBracket_3mm.stk mounting bracket.
BEv4 With EndMount
Same as standard but with the addition of mountpoints at the end.
It is 5mm longer than the standard version.
Mount points are spaced as normal Nema 17 for easy mounting.
Excellent for mounting on the backside of Ultimakers for instance.
200-GT2 Belt version
I do recommend using the smaller std version with 172-GT2 belt, but if you for some reason would rather use 188-200 GT2 Belts, you can use this version.
File for this version is: BEv4-GT2-200.stl
- Added the lower-end mounting holes to this one in order to stiffen it up some
- Added internal bewelfeatures to strengthen it
- 3 Perimeters and 70% infill applies even more to this version, as it is longer, so more strain on the center piece
- 15mm longer than std version
Picking the right motor
Usage and Capabilities
- You do not have to open Idler to load filament, which makes it very easy to change filament
- If the filament drivebit doesn't grab onto inserted filament automatically, you need to loosen the TightenerNutholder
- Belt is tightened by sliding motor downwards
- Do not use excessive force or you can damage Nema motor
Step 1 - Remove Support
- Use a fitting plier to remove the 2 pieces of support from BEv4-std
Step 2 - Cleaning the pieces
- Remove burrs, blobs, strings etc. you might have from all your printed pieces
- Make sure your filament can pass through the the extruder without hitting something.
Step 3 - Add m3 nuts to main part
- Add 2 m3 nuts in the BEv4-std part idler-hinge.
- Add 2 m3 nuts for mounting the extruder to your printer.
- You might use a plier to press the m3 nuts into place.
Step 4 - Hobbed-bolt and Pulley assembly
Note: Below these descriptions you will find photos of each step as well.
- Insert 2x 688 bearings into the main extruder part: BEv4-std.stl.
- Insert the E3D Hobbed Bolt through the bearings and center it.
- Insert one of the printed 2x8mmSpacer onto either end of the hobbed bolt
- Insert one of the ø8 steel spacers onto either end of the hobbed bolt.
Came with the E3D Hobbed Bolt
- Insert the 60-GT2 big Aluminium Pulley onto the Hobbed bolt, on the flat side of the extruder
Long end of Hobbed bolt should be on this side
- It is IMPORTANT to put the grub screws outwards (furthest away from the printed main body part) or you will bend the extruder once you start using it.
YES the grub screws are meant to be set into the threads of the Hobbed Bolt
- Make sure the Hobbed Bolt is centered, by looking at the drive-bit and the filamentgroove in the middle of the Extruder...
... then tighten the 2 grub-screws on the 60-GT2 pulley. You might need to redo this a few times to get it just right.
- Insert the Teeth Lock spacer and the normal m8 Nut onto the side of the pulley
These came with the E3D Hobbed Bolt
- Use a pipe-wrench or similiar tool to grib onto the 60-GT2 Pulley. On the round part where grub-screws are insert - not on the Teeth.
- While you hold onto the big Pulley, you tighten down the m8 screw.
- Don't overdo it. Just enough to make it stay in place.
- Now insert the m8 Lock Nut onto the other end of the Hobbed bolt and tigten it.
- Use the pipe-wrench trick from earlier.
- Do not overtighten it. Just make it snug.
- Make sure the assembly turns nicely. If it's very tight you need to loosen it. Some resistance is fine, but it must run smoothly and should run without use of force
- If you can push/pull the assembly back and forth in the printed part, you tighten it a bit more.
- It’s crucial to get the Hobbed Bolt centered, so make sure it is so!
Step 5 - Push-Fittings
- Use an M6 screw and screw it into the holes/threads for the Push-fittings
This makes it much easier to install the Push-Fittings.
- Use a plier to get a firm grib on one of the Push-Fitting and screw it into the threaded holes.
I recommend finding a tool where you can push the Push-Fitting into the hole while turning
Step 6 - Idler
- Use a small plier to pressfit a m3 nut into the idler
- Use the pipe-wrench or similar to press the printed IdlerBearing.stl into the last 608 bearing
- Put the printed Idlerbearing_spacer on the opposite site of the bearing and insert the parts into the printed Idler.stl
- Use a m3 16mm screw to fix the Idler bearing in place
The bearing would try to turn when inserting the screw. This is normal, so just push on the screw while holding onto the bearing and idler
- Attach the assembled Idler onto the Extruderpart BEv4-std.stl idler hinge and use the M3 25mm screw to fix it
- The screw must go in from the top side and come out on the flat side of the Extruder: meaning it come out and is attached to the outer M3 nut
Step 7 - Idler adjust mechanism
- Insert the M3 40mm screw through the top of the printed Idler
- Insert the printed ReleaseTab onto the screw with the rounded edges facing towards the Idler
- Insert the 10mm spring
- Insert a M3 nut into the Tightener-Nutholder, which you then screw onto the m3 40mm screw
The screw goes through the pritned part of the Tightener-Nutholder before entering the m3 nut
- Tighten it untill you can see about 1cm of the threadding at the end of the screw
- Do NOT put on a drop of ThreadLocker! I did this and it east away the plastic.
You can use some nail polish or just a drop of WoodGlue onto the thread below the m3 nut.
- Turn down the Tightener-Nutholder untill it is about 5mm from the end of the screw
You might add a drop of Nailpolish or woodglue to the Finger-Tighethener if you find it too fiddly, like in the video.
- The goal of V4 was to make it more compact, and redesign the Idler release system
- Using smaller 688 bearings (8*16*5) instead of the old 608 bearings (8*22*7).
Innerd diameter/center hole * Outer diameter * How thick it is.
- Redesigned the Idler latch/release system to be an integral part of the design and not protrude upwards
- Compressed the space between the 2 Push-fittings, making the push-fitting less protruding.
- Compacted staggered design resulted in a more rigid part when printed
- More rigid opbject allowed for removal of the lower end mount parts, which led to a smaller end product
- Tweaked the filament channel
- It now requires less force to extrude filament due to the tweaks
- Scaled the Push-fitting threads to make it much easier to insert the Push-Fittings
- Due to tweaks, blobs at the end of filaments should now pass more easily through the extruder (in reverse) without loosening the Idler
- Less materials used
- Redesigned all objects making for an overall much easier print
- It is running in reverse compared to my v3
Note: The downloadable file has been scaled up by 1%
17th January 2018
Created seperate "thing" for the 2.85mm / 3mm extruder as people couldn't find it.
Removed it from this "thing"
5th january 2018
Uploaded modified model of the Belted Extruder V4 2.85/3mm
This fixes an issues where the Bowden tube was pushed out of the extruer.
16th December 2017
Uploaded modelfiles for 2.85/3mm model.
This model consist of basefile + idler
2nd November 2017
Added the following to the assembly instructions as I learned this was why some decided to assemble the extruder with pulleys facing opposite way as my design:
Important notice on mounting the Hobb-goblin hobbed bolt
It is important to put the grub screws outwards, as shown in my photos, or you will bend the extruder once you start using it. This might lead to uneven extrusion.
YES the grub screws are meant to be set into the threads
9. Oct 2017
Added new model BEv4-With_EndMount with mountpoints at the end.
9. Oct. 2017
Encountered issues with the STL files on linux systems using S3D so new versions of the following files has been uploaded to fix this issue.
Thanks to hcumberdale for bringing the issue to light
19. Sept 2017:
- Added version without support
- Minor tweak to Support for the center bearing area
- Minor tweak to how the filament is transfered out into the exit Bowden
Important to mount it in a way to let filament run through like shown here.