Loading
baschz

CR-10 Bigger Z-Axis Manual Adjustment Knob (also Ender 3, CR-10 mini, Hictop, Tevo Tornado)

by baschz Sep 15, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Printed this twice now and both times there was no thread, there wasn't even a hole for the rod to go in, it was just solid, I'm quite new so maybe i'm missing something.

That sounds pretty weird, and frankly, impossible. Maybe something went wrong while slicing. Which slicer did you use?

cura 4, the hole was just solid both times

Sorry for the late reply. Just have no idea what could have been going wrong. Never heard of this problem. Maybe some settings. Have you found out what it was yet?

How do you run your filament - mine is hitting the knob.. I have my spool mounted center on my top rail, stock extruder on left.

Se monte sur une Alfawise U30 sans problème
Fichier OK

To all that have tried this mod, Does it also help to remove the chattering and clikcing the Z-rod does when the hot-end is for instance doing fast X and Y movements so the rod rattles around in the top insert?

Any suggestions for how to hold the lead screw in place while attaching the knob the first time?

Its connected to a working stepper motor. Run the lead screw in the opposite direction by using move Z axis.

I just gently hold it with my hand and screw on hand tight. it doesn't have to be on super super tight, since it will screw on itself every time you want to move up, which is probably the thing you will be doing most. if you do want to attach it more, you can use a little drop of super glue, as it will hold the knob a little bit tighter but can also be broken loose simply enough when needed. good luck!

The knob printed well, but maybe my printer has accuracy issues. It's so loose on the lead screw that it fell off about 10min into the first print. Maybe I'll drill it for a nylon grub screw.

Thanks for the design work on it. :)

It's hard to say from here what might have gone wrong, but it should be a tight enough fit. Did you do the drill out remix?

For me, the thread in the gear came out rough (thus making it nearly impossible for me to attach the knob to the printer). Is there anyway I can repair the threads without having to reprint the entire thing?

Sorry to hear that, although I haven't heard of this issue before. Since it's pretty hard to judge from here what went wrong with your print, I'm guessing you'll have to reprint it. It's not a long print though :)

Also if it helps, here's the screw at its current state

I went and tried another knob (here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3014508) and notice that it doesn't have any threads and I didn't experience any issues with that one. Not sure if having no threads makes a difference or not

Creality ender 3 Z-knob (print at 98%!)
by Jody_T

if the threadless one works for you then by any means, use it. as long as you have the functionality you were looking for. happy printing!

Bonjour fonctionne t'il sur l'Alfawise U20 ? Merci

Salut,
Les vis du support de roulement ne s'adaptent pas facilement sur l'alfawise u20, mais cela fonctionne quand même !

Hello,
Screws of the cover plates do not fit easily in the alfawise u20 but it works !

(Google Translate says):

on dirait que oui, mais je ne suis pas sûr. vous devrez l'essayer vous-même. mais ce n'est pas une longue empreinte. J'aimerais avoir de vos nouvelles si cela réussissait. alors je peux laisser les gens savoir dans la description.

this make my z rod rattles even more ?(

Everything printed great first time! The only problem I have is that my z axis threaded rod is too long, the rod sticks up higher then the top of the frame. I tried unscrewing the part where the rod attaches down by the stepper motor to see if I could lower it, but I had no success. Should I even bother trying to make it flush with the frame, or can I just have it stick up a little bit?

It sticks out a bit with mine as well. That shouldn't be a problem.

The big knob is really huge. I was expecting it 30% smaller. But the designs are nice and work very well in my cr-10 mini

I introduced the bigger version so you can make quicker up and down movements.

This was my first printed upgrade to my printer. Whoop Whoop.
Found easy enough to print and attach, but when turning to lower, it unscrewed the handle. Ended up super glueing the handle to the riser - works like a charm.

I’m honoured to have been your first upgrade print :) Tightly screwing it on should be enough to not have it unscrew on you though (make sure the stepper motors are disabled when turning), but a drop of glue can help. should be able to still easily break free as well when needed.

Anyone tried to use in Creality CR10-Mini?
Is it compatible?
Thanks!

Yes. The second video up here (from Filament Friday) is about that. From 3:23 and further.

Hi, the STL file seems to have an issue at the transition from the slope to the straight part of the center cylinder. The mesh there is not contiguous, leaving a gap that my Slicer interprets as such and leaves a weak point in that layer.

EDIT: And yes, the part snapped just barely touching it.

Hi,

First of all, thanks for the very clear pictures. Second, that's weird and sorry to hear it snapped. I have just opened and sliced my own files (from my computer) and the downloaded ones from Thingiverse again in Cura (2.7.0) and I don't have this problem, nor have I heard of it before. Maybe something went wrong with your download or unzipping? I can also email you the original file if you want so you can try that. Just let me know. Also, if you found out what the problem is/was, I would love to hear it.

Hehe, down the rabbit hole. When I opened the file today there was no issue, making me think I was going crazy...

When I load the STL file in Cura with 0.2mm layer height, all is good. Only when I slightly increase the initial layer height (0.3mm inital, 0.2mm all the rest) the layer at the interface of the shapes gets omitted. I'd point to a bug in Cura, except I can see the gap, just a very small one, in other programs too (Cura, Fusion 360, Meshmixer, Windows 3D paint, and if you angle it just right, also the Thingiverse viewer).

I'm not blaming you, this is very much the curse of getting floating point numbers right, but the model is a tiny defect that can cause issues under just the right circumstances. What program did you model this in?

Perhaps that is what mxvilla down in the comments ran into, too?

Again, thanks for diving in so deep :)
I haven’t seen it myself yet, but I believe you immediately. I’m wondering if the smaller version I made before this bigger one (linked in the description) has the same issue. Since if I remember correctly I just cut of the threaded part of the first and (badly apparently) stuck in onto the bigger top, as getting the threads right had been quite some work on the first iteration. The first one was modtled in Fusion 360 and altered in Tinkercad (because of the threads). This second one (again, if I remeber correctly) was I think done in Fusion 370, using the first model. Either way, I will have a look at it and fix it asap, because regardless of how it went wrong, it did, and that very well could have been mxvilla’s problem indeed. Thanks for your in depth research!

Fixed and replaced the model. Thanks again!

Nice! Thanks a lot for the model!

Thanks for the part. Maybe incorporate a finger hole to assist in a speedy Z-axis adjustment?

Thanks again.

Thanks Ed! I was thinking of doing that a few times as well, but since you can already put your finger anywhere between the protrusions on the side (instead of one hole) and quickly wind the axis up and down (see the video) I decided to leave it like this for now. I still might add this version though, as it hasn't totally left my mind :) Thanks for the kind words and suggestion. Cheers!

Hi all.

I am new to 3d printing and been trying to print this but it always fails.

Does this need supports?

Printing in PLA, 210 and 50 bed.

Thanks

Hi Jamie,

Welcome! This print does not need supports. You do however have to turn it upside down in your slicer to print it without problems (as it says in the instructions). This is just for the knob itself, the bracket you can print as shown. Or did you already put it upside down and still have problems printing it? Your temperatures shouldn't be the problem by the looks of it. To further install it when you've succesfully printed it you can also have a look at Chuck Hellebuycks video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDG_C5y-psU&t=3m23s as he shows it pretty clearly. If you keep having problems please let me know, so I can hopefully help.

Thank you baschz.

Got it to work:) many many thanks

No problem. Good to hear it worked. Happy printing!

Can you set tolerance on the small piece's centre hole to keep the z axis screw in place without any wobble as currently the tolerances are too high the z screw is free to move around.

Appreciate what you've done here, must have!

Thanks!
From what I understand (I am still relatively new to the 3D printing game) it should have SOME play, first of all of course to allow the Z-axis to actually turn. If in your case the tolerance therefore is too much, you are welcome to remix the file to fit your personal needs or, if you don't have the resources, you can tell me the size you want the centre hole to be and I can change and email you the file if you want.

Ohhhh gonna print some of these tonight!

Note for parts like this 3x3x3 25% grid both ways. 3 top 3 bottom 3 perimeters (1.2mm wall in cura) and print it as hot as you can without having filament issues or cooking the filament 225c is a good stsrt 240c for modified pla's.

Hotter equals better layer adhesion and a stronger part.

Thanks!

Looking forward to hopefully catch a glimpse of them in your videos ;) I'm a fan.

I don't own a dual Z myself but I imagine they can also come in handy for leveling them. Curious about your findings!

As for print settings, that comes pretty close to what I did. A little bit less hot, but also 3 x 3 x 3 and a 30% infill, just to make sure the part is nice and strong. Haven't had a problem with it yet, while using it on a daily basis.

these will also help with baby stepping. bed level off a bit? grab the knob and give it a tiny twist. solved. relevel later.

does it "hurt" anything to do this? I don't think so but its an interesting question.

Wouldn't the steppers have to be disabled first, or don't you mean while printing? The turn would be tiny though, like you said .. interesting question indeed.

So far I have mainly been using it to manually (it feels nice to still be somewhat part of the process when creating things with a printer :)) and quickly lift the X-axis to give me access or a better look* underneath the extruder. When a print fails, or just when I load new filament. I use it a lot.

*I don't like how the extruder is boxed in, obstructing the view of the first layers when printing smaller objects.

You can force them to turn I can exert more torque than the stepper can question is would that hurt it over a long period and many times my gut tells me no since it already happens when it stutters and skips.

Sounds logical. Turning against the clock though (to move the hot end down) might give a problem, while you’re essentially screwing the knob off the lead screw. If the torque of the stepper is enough to hold it for you. I’m guessing yes, with my set-up at least.

I haven't loaded the STL file yet so I wasn't sure but I was curious how you afixed it to the lead screw

hey Chris, did you print one in the end?

also curious about the x-carriage you showed some videos ago. so you can actually see the printer printing. are you planning on sharing that?

Like that :) I screwed it on with one hand while holding the lead screw with my other hand. I use it more to move up than down so I guess it should even tighten itself more if anything. Either way, I haven't had it come loose once since I put it on, which is almost two months ago and I use it every day.

Hi!
I printed this model in 2 different printers, and they both broke immediately in almost the same place, where the screw is supposed to go (sorry if I can't explain myself properly, English is my second language :P).
Any ideas on how I could prevent that from happening?
Thanks! :)

Hi,

User https://www.thingiverse.com/wonkoderverstaendige/about probably found out what the problem was you were having with printing out the knob. It was tiny but did give a problem with certain slicing settings. I have just fixed it and uploaded the new version. Just so you know.

Cheers

Sorry to hear that. Mine is still ok. Also the former version I made and used before I changed to this bigger one. As always it can probably be a number of things. To me it sounds like either under extrusion, too little walls, too low of an infill or a combination of these. Especially check and play with the layer height, amount of walls and infil percentage. Also temps and flow etc. Good luck

Ok! I'll tweak some of those things :D Thanks!

hope it works!

May I ask what this is for? Newbi

Of course! Pretty new to all this myself as well :) Anyway. The lead screw that is the Z-axis was in my machine at least originally held in place on top with a black acrylic piece with a hole, but it had so much slack the lead screw could move quite a bit. I designed and printed a new cover plate and decided to also add a knob on top, so you can easily manually move the Z-axis and thus the hot end up and down, without having to go into the menu and do it from there. The version right here is the same idea as the first version I mentioned in the description, just with a bigger knob. It takes less effort to move up and down. Hope this answers your question, otherwise just ask again and I will try and explain it better :)

By the way the slack is important the point of the slack is to prevent any deviation of the Z axis screw from translating into your model if there is a slight wobble or misalignment in the z axis screw this will translate to a shift in your print in the vertical by allowing the z-axis to move slightly it can absorb this shift instead of transferring that shift into your model think of it like the suspension on your car the suspension absorbs some of the impact so you don't have to

i put it on ( and tighten it gently up with a clamper) but it uncrewed itself while moving upward doing that each time i uplift...have i to insert some ...cloths fragments? i think glue is too definitive and inappropriate. what do you suggest?

Normally it should actually tighten itself when you move the axis up and since you probably do this a lot more than moving it down it usually stays put. So first of all, make sure it is really screwed on. If not, see below :)

I wouldn't use glue either, or maybe just a tiny drop (you could also try some nail polish, which works like a 'light glue' that can be 'cracked' loose again).

But I think I would try printing it again, now a bit hotter or with your flow rate/extrusion multiplier up a bit. It could just be underextrusion a bit. I'm curious to hear if any of this worked. Good luck!

Thank you basch. I have ordered a filament pen . when i have it at home i will try squeezing a light pla layer inside the knob groove.. probably i have skrewed it in the wrong direction when i fitted it ( it uncrews itself from the rod when i uplift the x axis)
Oh my!.........i cannot stand the noobs..especially when the noob.....is .....ME!

I let you know .thank you.

Please read the update/fix I just posted. There was indeed a smaaall problem with the file which I corrected. I have just uploaded the newer fixed version. Maybe this will help.

Hahaha once again .. good luck! You'll get it though :)

Hi b. Thank you. The old knob works after i fitted it turning the knob clockwise.

To say thank you in a concrete way i added a link to a site where there are very usedul articles on 3d printing https://rigid.ink/resources. You will try a chart as well depicting a benchy with problem and solutions approach ( unfortunatly i cannot upload it here) : .
Thank you b

glad to hear tou got it to work! and thanks for the link