Skullspider - Fully articulated

by JeramZ, published

Skullspider - Fully articulated by JeramZ Sep 15, 2017
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Tinkercad Blender 3D Builder Win10


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This is a slight improvement over DexterMurphy model (link below)

The low polygon skull on old design is replaced with a different and higher detailed variant

A very good desk toy and cool prop for halloween :)
Not recommended to be scaled down as the connectors might get easily broken


  • As requested, I have separated the parts. It will now be easy to print any part that you need in case some of the legs or joints break. ;)
    You can also print them in batches. See list of required parts below to complete the assembly. Enjoy!

long_pointy_leg - 4x
short_pointy_leg - 4x
long_joint_leg - 6x
mid_joint_leg - 2x
short_joint_leg - 8x
head - 1x
abdomen - 1x
left_fang - 1x
right_fang - 1x

Don't forget to hit that follow/subscribe button. I have more cool stuff coming soon!

Print Settings


Tevo Tarantula






10% lines or 20% grid


If the connectors don't stick well on the bed, might be good to use brims instead of skirt

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so anyone tried this with PLA with success? just running an a8 for a week, this seems the right first big job for my baby..
looks gorgeous, by the way!

ok, just an update, tried printing a medium and a short joint, the connections works perfectly, 30% infill, did some resistance but didnt' broke and can move freely.. now onto the other parts! will update when finished!

Great idea, you could probably make it so that there are other parts that just the skull so it is not just 'Halloween'.

You have a point, but don't you think this design can fit all occasions? :D

It could, but some people might want to have this for other holidays. Or might want a real looking spider. Some people are "anti- Halloween ".

The majority of my leg joints broke when connecting them. Is there something I should modify in my settings:
20% infill grid
outline/perimeter shells: 3

Any suggestions to try?

You could try printing it in a PLA+ material. It's a little more flexible than regular pla.

Another option is that you could warm up the PLA to its glass transition point using a heat gun or a hair drier then connect the joints. Though be careful as there is a burn risk with the heat gun.

PLA has low flexibility in general and will snap at small parts you can print at a higher resolution or use a larger nozzle to increase it's flexibility as the thinner your layers the more likely it will fracture. If possible try printing in PETG or ABS these plastics have more flexibility and generally won't snap as easily.

Silly question: what is the order that the legs go together in? Trying to decipher from the pictures and I'm missing it.

(Print came out great, it looks awesome. Just don't know which legs go where...)

Well... there's no specific rule with assembly to be honest. Most people just play it by ear. I understand it could be a little confusing with the different joint sizes and all.
But here's a basic guide I follow.

  1. mid_joint_leg connect to abdomen
  2. long_joint_leg connect to head part
  3. short_joint_leg connect to mid and long joint legs
  4. short_pointy_leg in the middle
  5. long_pointy_leg - front and back legs

Hope that helps!

First of all, the model is great. I've printed 2, and hope to get one printed at 300% next weekend. I connected the legs all differently, and yes, it looks like it all works out no matter how you connect them. Looking up some spider anatomy, I see that your description is better than the way I did mine. (Generally, looks like front and back legs are always the longest, middle pairs are shortest).

It might seem silly to point out anatomical flaws in a spider that has a skull for an abdomen, but one small detail that bugs(!) me is that all of the legs of a spider should connect to the thorax. I know that's part of the original model that you modified, so no big deal. What I would do with it if I had the tools would be to make the ball joints slightly smaller and the body slightly bigger to accommodate all the legs on the thorax. I've only done simple modelling in openscad, and will need to pick up a better modelling program to work on that, though.

The bigger issue that I have is sort of hard to describe. The ball and socket joints seem to have very tiny "keys" on the balls and a matching cutout in the socket. This implies orientation. However, on the body, there is not enough room to attach the legs with the implied orientation (the two sides of the socket horizontally so that the key at the bottom of the ball lines up), because there is not enough horizontal distance between the legs to accommodate two legs, they need to be flipped to a vertical orientation, which puts undue stress on this joint and limits mobility.

Anyways, for a model that normally isn't touched much, all these are fairly minor issues, and the kids have really enjoyed their big, scary halloween spider! Thanks for posting!

I want to know this same thing too! I have it all printed but no clue what goes where

Body went out alright, but I can't figure out how to print the legs.
They alway loose connection to the raft mid print.(No way of them holding to the buildplate, heated or not)
I already use no space between Raft and base and use z hopping so the printer won't knock them off while moving.
Still no luck.

I also tried turning them upside down, this worked but looked terrible.

Any tipps on printing the legs?

Hi, Dagrar

Did you try printing it using a brim? 6-8 layers to be safe. also, what nozzle temp are you running at? Maybe try to increase that 5-10 degrees.
You can also try decreasing print speed to 60% so it doesn't drag the legs as the nozzle travels.

What I always do to make sure the first layer sticks to the bed is to slow print speed to 50% and increase temp by 10 degrees at the beginning, after 2-3 more layers, I change the speed back to 100%

Let me know

Thanks for the tipps.
There is still no way for me to print more than one part at once but at least i managed to get them out pretty well when doing them one by one.
This is what i changed:

  • using a raft 2 layers high, 0.1mm gap, tried this the first time and parts come off so easily. Will do that every time now.
  • reducing print speed to 30 (from 60)
  • activate z-hoping so that travel moves won't kick the parts from the plate. Also fixed an issue with scratches on the last layer

I didnt try to up the temperature for the first layers as i made bad exdperiences with the PLA im using at 195+. 190 seems to be optimal.
But I really should try, as the first 2 layers wont make that big of a difference in stringing.

Doing it the way i do it now i loose one part from time to time. Printing even 2 at once ends in a mess every time. Maybe it reacts to the cooled layer by pushing it a little. No idea. But im happy with the way it works now.

I uploaded one of the legs into my tinkercad and reverse engineered the legs so that I could print them laying down instead.

Reminder to you guys, if you use different PLAs, print body and test joints first. I am printing the legs with fluorescent PLA and shrints. I had to print them several times with increasing the scale.

Thank you for your input. :)

Printing now at 200%, pretty excited <3

Awesome! please post your Made. :D

Will do, just finished legs, printing points and fangs now, then have the body left. Printing in translucent red PETG :) Gonna be a big one :) https://imgur.com/a/5QoKV

LOL! cool post, man. I hope that nope is not real!

Could you please upload all parts separately?

That's the plan. Just didn't have the time to do it. Will do real soon. Thanks for the reminder. :D