Ford Flat Head V8 Working Model Engine

by ericthepoolboy Sep 25, 2017
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Now that was close!!! And nope I did not have another spool of the same filament... :-D

Hi Eric, I noticed the link for purchasing the model kit for this engine is not here anymore. Do they ship internationally from MakersRX now?
When I purchased the Subaru kit they did not ship internationally so you had a special fast checkout link with paypal there...

Yes, all fulfillment is done by MakerRx now and they ship internationally.

Hello, Eric. I have tried to put this model's engine block/ crankcase on Tinkercad, but its mesh is to complicated. Do you have any simplified versions of the engine block?

Any simplified version will either still be too complicated or if over simplified and small details would be eliminated. When importing an STL into a CAD program to try and modify it, the program tries to make it a solid body and you end up with thousands upon thousands of individual surfaces. Like the Flathead block, my CAD program says it has 326826 facets. When trying to open it, my computer tries but I have yet to have the patience to see if it will eventually open it.
What are you trying to do with the STL file? You can try Blender for editing.

Hi Eric, in the list of printed parts it would be nice to have a column with the original color of the parts. I am beginning to build this beatiful model and I would like to keep the colors as much the same as the originals that you used. Do you think it would be possible to ad that column there?

how big is your 3D printer, my 3D print is only 250,150,150, do you have any suggestion, and may i print something else, or i will heat my mantal to liquid and rebulid it, caused of i have a small boiler and foundry sand. Or buy One another printer eVen it is not good dicision

If you're on the fence about sourcing the none printed parts or buying the kit, just buy the kit. it is awesome, comes in a plastic tote that locks the parts are in baggies and labeled and he even gives you extras. its a very well put together kit.

Amazing work, congrats on the design! One question, I'm a budding hobby machinist looking for a miniature engine to build in metal and run on gas. Would your parts be a good starting point to make casting molds?



I just completed the build of the Flathead Engine and want to thank Eric for designing and posting on Thingiverse. I printed the engine and the stand. It looks great.

Hi All,
I'm having a problem aligning
the groove in the valve guide with the m3 set screw. I can/t even see the groove.
Can someone help with this?
Also; the holes for the set screws are stripping out. Has anyone had this problem?Thanks,
I'm looking forward to your help.

Curious what the ratio is to the actual engine. Want to build a body and frame to drop this in.

Hello, love the engine kit. Just one question. Where do I get the speed controller box

love this engine, finally got a big enough printer that i upscaled and sliced your files to print a full scale flathead to make a coffee table out of. its coming out amazingly! thank you so much for the files. ill be sure to post when im finished

Thank you for this. My first dirt car ran a 39 motor so I am making a display model out of wood. Have reduced size by 41% to fit on the shelf. ( this will only be outer skin, not a working model) Designed a single carb manifold to make it like my old original

This model is truly exquisite..It has been a long time since i have had this much enjoyment constructing something, and i'm 70.
The Ford Flathead V8 was, and is my all time favorite engine and you are a genius creating this model for us.
Thank You


Can you explain how to change the firmware. I am printing on an original Prusa i3 MK3. I am a bit new to this. Great project. Thank you for sharing.


There are many websites that do a better job at explaining how to update the firmware on a printer than I could ever do. I'm unsure of what board the Prusa uses but normally it is done in the arduino IDE. On some printers you can change the build envelope using the printers screen and controls. I'm gonna work on getting a block that has the bell housing removed like on the later year flatheads. But i'm not sure when that will be.

I have an assembly question. I don’t see anything in the instructions for installing the flywheel. From looking at the parts, I assume that I’m supposed to install inserts into the rear bearing surface and screw the flywheel into the inserts. Can someone please confirm this and tell me what length of screw I should be using.



I’d reaiiy like to build this engine, but alas, my print bed is too small. If the bell housing could be cut off and printed as a separate piece, I can do it.
Is it possible to chop off that part?
Thanks for your assistance.

I did the same. The cut parts are available here:


Ford Flat Head V8 Working Model Engine Parts
by Dbvandy

Mine is coming together like a dream. Ordered a hardware kit, so that helped. My only question, what is the polarity of the barrel plugs? I dont see markings on them, and i dont want to fry the pcm module. Thanks!

I see that you have the engine mounted to an engine stand, do you have that available for printing? I did a search and nothing found.


It's there. Just put in "engine stand" and it comes up. Made by ericthepoolguy.

Comments deleted.

building this engine now. The M3x25mm screws for the water pumps included in the hardware kit are only partially threaded. This prevents the doubled-nuts from seating into the hex cutout in the printed water pump. Is this correct, or should the hardware kit have included fully-threaded M3x25mm fasteners instead?

I guess that fastener in the kit got over looked, thank you for bringing that to my attention. You can either use washers to space out the pulley or I uploaded a modified version of the water pumps that eliminates the use of the hex screws. Let me know if that works for you.

Eric, I just ran a die down my screws to make them fully-threaded, but I'm guessing that most builders won't have a die available. Since you're going to adjust the hardware in the kit anyway, the other tweak that I'd suggest is on page 33 of the build instructions I'd increase the count of item 11 (M3 x 5mm SHCS) from 6 to 12 and decrease the count of item 7 (M3 x 8mm SHCS) from 14 to 8. This is because it's very difficult to install the throttle body spacer (item 10) with the longer screws, it works much better with the 5mm. Excellent project, thank you so much for sharing it.

Nearing the end of a 1/2 sized model so I could do it quicker and on my A8. I'm skipping the internals and going to glue everything together. I'll be posting pics soon. Thanks!


Having a great time with this project!!!!

Did I mess up or is the valve timing off on the back four cylinders?

Thanks, Terry

The timing should be right if you assembled the came lobes in order, 1-16. Remember that the valves aren't laid out like an overhead valve v8. From front to back the valves go, Exhaust Intake Intake Exhaust Exhaust Intake Intake Exhaust

Thanks. I found my problem. I didn't glue the lobes together and the rod twisted as I was tightening the threaded rod. Hard to believe it twisted that far but it is fixed now. Getting close to finishing this project. Thanks so much for sharing it. I am having a great time with it.

Hi I want to print this engine, I noticed you offer a hardware kit, but you don't ship to europe it seems. Could you give us a list of the exact hardware needed so I can still build it and buy the hardware locally?

I added a link for international shipping in the summary. The list of non printed parts is in the instructions.


Do you ship the kit to Europe ?

I added a link for international shipping in the summary.

The power Supply supports 220 Volts or is only 110 V ?

It supports 220v but has an american plug

The Oil pan is in 3 pieces. Can a 1-piece oil pan stl be added? Those of us that have larger printers would be able to print the pan in 1 piece.

Added the full oil pan. It will still be in two separate pieces, as the part that the electric motor mounts to needs to be bolted to the engine

Needs a blower now. :)

Make more engines or I’ll be mad

I bought hardware on the Maker Rx website but never received shipping confirmation.
Do you know if something is wrong with Maker Rx?

I ship them out and relay the tracking numbers over, but it takes a couple days to ship out. You can PM me with your name and I can send you the tracking if you want.

In wich orientation do you have to print the block? I have an Anet A8 with a build volume of 220x220x240, but i have to put the block upright to print it. Is this right or not? I hope you guys know the answer. I am using Cura.

"You will need to print on an 8x10" glass bed and change the "X" travel distance settings in the firmware to print the block"

^^ Here is your clue in the Thing Details.

The A8 frame will allow for more than 220mm of travel on the x-axis. If you want to print the block with the oil pan side down, you will need to physically enlarge your printing surface. You can do this by getting a piece of borosilicate glass to clamp temporarily to your print bed. I used this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/332448536811 Orient the 257mm edge along the x-axis. It will fit between the two vertical towers.

Once you have a new, larger printing surface, you will need to tell your printer it now has a larger capacity on the x-axis. There may be a way to do this in the settings of the firmware that is shipped with the A8, but couldn't find out how to do this. Instead, I upgraded the printer's firmware to Marlin 1.1.8. There are many resources on the Internet that will step you through this, but I will say it involves these basic steps...

1) Download and install the Arduino IDE. (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software)
1.5) Download the Marlin Firmware (http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/)
2) Download and install the Anet A8 board definitions for the Arduino IDE (https://github.com/SkyNet3D/anet-board)
3) Change the line "#define X_BED_SIZE 220" in the Configuration.h file to "#define X_BED_SIZE 240" This will tell the printer you can print all the way to 240mm on the x-axis.
4) Compile the software in the Arduino IDE and install in on the A8 board.

All of this seems daunting and for some people it might not be doable. You can print the block standing on its end, but according to Cura, it will take MUCH longer to print and require more supports that printing with the oil pan down.

Allright, thanks! i'm gonna try that.

Please note!

I forgot the link to the Marlin software. It is now listed as 1.5.

I was informed that all of Eric's engine blocks are printed with the oil pan side down.

At what layer height did you print the block? I cannot find that anywhere.

You should do great at .15 to .2mm.

Hi, I'm busy building the Toyota engine now but I'm looking forward to the Flat Head as I have owned 2 of them.
I have a Prusa MK3 with build platform of 9.84 x 8.3 x 8.3. As I'm only short .16 of an inch will I be able to print
the block on my bed? If I need the Glass bed does it just get glued down? I will be buying your hardware kit also. So nice to have it available! Thank You!
Thank you in advance ever so much for your speedy reply to my request.
Much appreciated!

The over all dimension for the flatehead block are 8.98" x 6.61" x 3.78" so you should be fine printing it.

You are so right! When I realized that Slic3 was putting the block across the narrow side of the bed and I gave the block a 90 degree turn it fits perfectly. Thank you for your speedy reply.

Fantastic! I want to order the hardware kit thats available. How will they ship it? I must have itMAILED to me. UPS etc. rape me at the border! How can I contact the kit supplier, or can you do it?, SO IT GETS MAILED TO ME, not UPS etc.?
Thank you in advance ever so much for your speedy reply to my request.
Much appreciated!

I can ship you a kit. Its $95 plus $25 for shipping. So $120 USD total. Shoot me a PM with your email and I can send you a paypal invoice.

Yes, that sounds great! Will you send it by mail?
NOT UPS? Don’t know if you have to declare a value but if so a low value would be helpful.

Eric you Rock. I am very impressed with the quality of your design. Love the assembly instructions you included with the print file. I ordered the hardware kit. I am about to start printing the engine, does it take more than a 1 kg spool to print thr block.

Sorry, I don't check the comments very often. It's quicker to message or email me. But no, the block takes just under 1kg of filament when you print with support touching build plate @ 80 degree overhang, 20% infill, and three inside and outside perimeters.

Thank you for the upload
I have printed most of the parts and im starting to assemble the parts.
i ended up buying only some rods since i had the screws but im having a hard time finding the springs.
Are these custom spring or standard from something around the house?
the closest thing ive found is some 7/8 spring which are a little long?
how high is the tolerance for the ID .31" and the OD .36". is the ID more important than the OD?
i seem to find ones with the right id or the right od but never both.

The springs are custom. There may be commercial springs that would work but all the ones i've found that have the proper force are very thin wire and very few coils so they look weird when installed.

what % infill did you print the engine block and resolution?

The crankshaft build is confusing. The item numbers for each part don't match the assembly diagram. Am I missing something?

I updated the instructions, the BOMs were off

Thanks for the clarification, it makes a lot more sense now.

having the same issue. the numbers do not line up with the images for parts identification

sent an email to Eric to see if we can get some clairification

does the hardware kit from makerrx include all stainless steel hardware?

Yes, it includes all non printed parts.

slice with cura in repetier dont fix worked for me on fan

Yep! just tried to repair the cooling fan with Simplify 3D with no luck. Any Ideas!!

Great work Eric. Cant wait for the next engine.

I think I fixed it. Try the new file

Cura will slice and print it. I did try it in Simply3D and for some reason it can't repair it. And its something wrong with the original file. Solidworks is doing something weird with the STL. I continue to try and figure it out.

Looks like the Cooling Fan is not manifold. Slic3r is not able to fix it.

Thanks for the awesome work though, can't wait to try it after I finish the Toyota 22RE

is it possible to print this on 8.5"x8.5" bed?

Are you taking any requests? I would love to have a gen 3 viper motor and there's not even a small one available anywhere to print or even a srt4 motor

Wow .... That looks almost exactly like the motor my Dad had in a Model A "Hot Rod" in the mid '50's except his had 3 carbs linked together with Erector Set pieces. He made what are now known as glass packs except his were custom welded from well casings and stuffed with steel wool. He also had a spark plug on eash tail pipe hooked up to an ignition coil and a switch and when he'd back off the gas at high RPMs he'd hit the switch and it would shoot flames out the 2 tail pipes from the unburned gasoline .....

I may have to make this for him but I'm still working on the Toyota project, motor is done and now I'm doing the transmission and transfer case

Just a tip on where to get quality screws and small hardware at an extremely reasonable cost and reasonable shipping. A 20 dollar bill will buy you a ton of 3mm, 4mm and 5mm screws, nuts, washers, etc


The guy I got the tip from also has some nice 3D printed organizers for them, be sure to check out his other stuff for M4/5 and a rack to put them in


M3 Screw Organizer
by walter

Thank you so much for sharing your work

I've been waiting for you to release this model for the past few months. The for flathead V8 is my favorite. I've owned four real ones in the past. They were all 8BA motors though. Thank you for your time and effort to make this.

can you make an automatic transmission model.

Hello, having done your toyota engine and transmission, I am starting to build this vantage flat head, I think that you forgot the starter "enveloppe" in the STL files.

I appreciate your sharing of those very well done desings.
thank you...

Uhh... V8!? I see the 4 Plug Wires, but only 3 Exhaust Tubes.

Is it a Ford thing???

That's how they did them back then. Originally this engine would have had 1 single barrel carburetor on top. They didn't realize how important the flow in and out of air really was. These engines still ran pretty good though in the lower rpms.

Google Siamese port. Not just a Ford thing.

Spectacular project again. Thank you, monster.

sorry im 15 and new to this this is awsome would it be able to be sand casted or made to run petrole

By far my favorite! Will be making one as soon as I get the LS3 done...

Thanks for the hard work on this project, it looks great!

Holy hell, that's an amazing piece or moving art. Thank you for sharing and spending so much time creating this.

Does anyone have the breakdown of where all the different hardware goes to assemble this project. I'm very new to this project, purchased the hardware kit from makerrx.

Eric included assembly files in with the print file. 53 pages. Extremely detailed. Awesome job Eric