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Crunch3D

Prusa i3 MK2s X Axis Brass Leadscrew Nuts Idler/Belt Tensioner

by Crunch3D Sep 21, 2017
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This was just what I needed! Once I got them printed I realized I had interference because I used motors without built-in lead screws and used those aluminum couplers. I might could find some smaller couplers, but I was also thinking about making a cut-away for them and reprinting these parts. Could I have your SCAD files? Thanks!

Hi

i would love to help, but i used tinkercad to make those and they can only export stl and obj.

Does that help ?

I could try Tinkercad. Is the obj file a source file for it? Thanks.

No it is not. But i can invite you (when you have a tinkercad account) to coloberate on the design, then you should be able to edit it i think.

But please make a backup first :-)

Hi, so I played with Tinkercad, learned how to do the boolean difference (make a hole) but I don't like being forced by Autodesk to store my designes on their site. I searched for an STL to SCAD converter and found one. It makes a really hokey array of points (basically what the obj exports if you look at the file contents), but you can add to it. Once I did that I realized that I have to cut out a LOT of the part and I'm not happy with that. I want to look for a smaller coupler, or I MAY just break down and get the motors with integrated lead screws. Anyway, thank you for your offer, and here is a link to the converter for your entertainment: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62666, and a downloadable Python version: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1285084.

STL to OpenSCAD converter
by Riham
stl2scad
by joshuaf

I'm a little worried to work on your file, since I'm new to Tinkercad. Let me get back with you tomorrow. Thanks.

Of course i find this an hour after I super glued the brass nuts i have to the parts..

In the summer, I made exactly the same modifications as you did. I soon found out that the brass lead-screw nuts have a lot of backlash. Actually, as the printer did the Z axis hops, it was audible the return of the brass nut to the lead-screw.

So then I opted to the version with the tight spring, that is supposed to minimize the backlash. In fact, it is not enough.

So I put back the original black nylon lead-screw nuts, that has almost no backlash.

Well what do you mean with backlash ?

I also hear it when the z hops happen but that does not concern me. Print quality is very very good i think it made it better than with the original ones.

I'm glad that the brass lead-screw nuts worked fine for you!

I'm currently using the modified parts, but with nylon lead-screw nuts (not the original), that fit precisely and do not have any play.

That is very good to know :-)