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Hex chain (scale) mail

by davinci85, published

Hex chain (scale) mail by davinci85 Feb 22, 2014

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Summary

Scale mail.
I took advantage of building plate to give polished looks.
So, no supporting material needed.
However, those tiny connecting parts are not so strong with ABS plastic.
I made more parts and tried to connect, and it broke. Maybe there should be some adjustments.
I wonder how it will come out with flexible material.

Instructions

  1. used 0.2mm layer

  2. it seems the printer misses some parts, I'm not sure why.

  3. exterior part of scale should face down to get polished looks.

  4. no support.

  5. after print you might need to flex it a little to make it flexible.

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Mine stopped on 2 prints on the same spot after the base is completed and it stars to print the legs its probally 20 thousands out and it stopped on the same little leg. any help please.

Hm, if you are using memory card for your printer what "amirbeygi" said make sense.
Also, make sure your memory card has enough space. Sometimes software says it is done transferring the file even though it dosen't have enough space.

If that's not the case, maybe try to slice again?

you removed your memory before finishing copy , and make sure you eject memory first

Ne pas imprimer en 0.3 de résolution !
Du moins mon imprimante 3D (HICTOP 3DP17) ne le permet pas.

Right, 0.3 mm layer height might not work.
This is designed to be printed in 0.2 mm layer height.
Slicer won't be able to register some layers.

J'ai essayé de l'imprimer en 0.3 mais dès qu'on la tord elle casse !

Love the model but I've found I have an issue in printing. My printer wants to print one side (left and right, we'll say) of the hex line connected and the opposite (top and bottom) conjoined. So you can bend them inward, but they won't be totally flexible in a disconnected/chainmail fashion. I'm printing with a Davinci Jr at the suggested settings, but I'm sure there's some wiggle room on my end yet to be done. Any suggestions?

Hm, i'm not sure.would you show me the picture of it?

Can you download it as an stl file?

but it is an stl file

Printed OK, seems to be some funkiness with the sheet (easily fixed by taking the single link and making a new sheet) Printed in PLA for test and at 105% as the stems seemed too thin. (made sure all had at least 2 shells at that size)
I like the design. was thinking to mod it so there was a additional V on the bottom of the loops also so new posts can be fitted through.

What type of filament do you recommend?

you might wanna check this out, it seems like they modded your design, might help give you some ideas for improving your design: http://airwolf3d.com/2014/04/11/axiosarmor-2/

they even made a dress with it:
http://airwolf3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Airwolf-3D-Printed-Outfit-Designers.jpg
http://airwolf3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/3D-printed-axios-dress.jpg

Hello! I want to make a dress, please give me the STL from the dress

Sorry, the dress is not my work. I only made little piece of fabric.

Thank you for the reply, but please give me the STL with the material you did, or the STL with the piece you did

Wow, it is awesome to see my design featured.
However, I don't see myself credited here...

could the outer hoops have a slight v-cut at the top allowing you to press the pin through? like a break but enough to stop the pin from dislodging once pressed through. I would do it myself but I am still learning.

Thanks for the .sld files!
Lovely design x

I'm gonna print mine black than is going to be used under my cosplay gear

Back side is rough for skin though.

I was able to print this out on my MakerBot along with single pices to replace a few that broke and I had no problem getting them to fit together.

I printed this in NinjaFlex and it didn't come out so good. Will post the make.

why did u print it in Ninja Flex? Its meant to be printed with ABS or PLA plastic

I was just testing out different meshes, thinking if they were flexible they would be even more flexible in NinjaFlex which was true even for your mesh.

could you make pisces for a shirt? thanks

Pisces? Like a zodiac sign? Or a shirt? I don't think I can make a shirt by the way.

i have bad typing it is pieces.

I tried printing this off in clear PLA, but the pins and loops are sticking together, and then when i try to separate them, they just snap off before they loosen up... any tips/suggestions?

I can make some suggestions if your up for experimenting.

Disclaimer: These methods come with some risk to your health. Do them only if you know what your doing, (And you do it), And you have a safe area to work in.

I Know these methods work I just have no idea if they are adequate enough to work in this situation. You try at your own risk.

1) Hot water. This causes the plastic to soften somewhat. And will most likely cause it to deform.

2) Acetone. (ie in Nail polish remover) I've experimented with soaking pieces in jars of acetone. Does somewhat soften the plastic but will also cause some color changes. (Btw if you notice it dissolving the PLA then you have proof that the manufacturer is mixing in some ABS to make cheaper PLA) Will it soften enough? Don't know.

3) Methyl Chloride. (DANGEROUS Chemical) This will most certainly soften the plastic. I've used this to glue PLA pieces together. and also to soak hot ends in to clean out burnt PLA. Works quite nicely. Most likely will over soften the parts so use sparingly. Report your results.

have you found a solution for this problem im having the same problem, not sure if i should scale it up a bit ?

Comments deleted.

is the provided stl file for a single 'piece' or all of them printed out at once? like in the picture above?

Yes, the whole thing is printed at once. I tryed to assemble single pieces together with hand, and it broke.

I've tried slicing this into slic3r multiple times and it doesn't want to slice. Ran it through netfabb and it repaired and sliced fine... just an FYI for anyone who can't get it to slice like me.

Skeinforge worked well too.

I also cannot generate g-code with Slic3r. It stucks on:
G1 X77.086 Y92.391 F9000.000 ; move to first perimeter point
G1 Z0.600 F9000.000 ; restore layer Z
G1 E1.00000 F1800.000 ; compensate retraction
M204 S3000 ; adjust acceleration
G1 X80.779 Y90.449 E1.04671 F3600.000
My layer height is 0.2 mm. Slic3r version is 1.1.5.
Luckily KISSlicer generated g-code without problems.

Thanks! I was having trouble and your comment saved me! Repairing now!

Nylon maybe? or maybe some sort of coating.

I printed this out and was very impressed by how nicely it moved. Incredible work!

I printed it out in PLA and had the same problems you had in ABS. I wonder how much you would have to scale it up to get pins that were strong enough to join? Your comment about a flexible filament was a thought I had too--it might work.

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