by hdaniel3 Oct 1, 2017
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would i have to rescale the files? and to what size for 3/4 " pvc pipe?

You shouldn't have to. All parts are designed around 3/4" PVC. You might want to print out one of the smaller parts like the y-axis belt tensioner to test the fit. I tried to make allowances for +/-3% extrusion rate. You want a tight fit.

Design is on point. all parts fit snug. didn't have to re-scale anything. would you help me out with one more thing. what are the lengths for the piping 1. Front Base , 2. rear base wold same as front, 3.left side base, 4. right side would be the same, and piping for the z axis portion of the base? if you could measure out in inches that would great if not i'll measure it out in milometers if i have to kind of like measuring that way now and what screws did you use? the things i'm asking for, are they with in the file and just over looked?

Best way to get the sizes is to load the .STEP file of the assembly in the CAD software of your choice (I use FreeCAD). All the sizes your requesting should be deducible from there (and you change the units to your preference).

The screws I used were 6x3/4" pan head Phillips.

Keep us apprised of the build.

how did you put the rail slides to gather?

They should just slide together. The fit will be tight and may require a little filing. Once screwed in place you shouldn't have any problem with them coming apart. Adding some CA (superglue) or Dichloromethane (I use SCIGRIP #4) to the joint wouldn't hurt either.

Another thing is that you might want to do some post processing of the rail carriage guides. What I did was cut the head off some M3 screws and used them to smooth the guides. The best way to do this is to use these cut M3 screws in place of the rail carriage slider inserts. The screw acts as a file and should get you a smooth transition between the two rails.

How does this print? Thinking about swapping to a steel frame, but this may be a better, cheaper option! Any noticeable effects from the frame being loose or wobbly?

If your looking for top-notch quality, steel is the way to go. Along with all metal guide rods and/or linear rails. That being said the quality I get from this printer is equal to, if not better, than my A8. In fact, most of my A8 mods were printed with this printer.

If you do plan on building this, you might want to beg Mdcatro57 for some of his additions. I currently working on an external enclosure for the electronics for this printer so there are no mounts for the the display/controller/power supply. Mdcatro57 designed these himself.

Sorry, looked at twice before I recognized it, having one of those days today.

Yeap, that piece was there, but I did upload 3 pieces that have changed.

  • Motor Mount,Y-Axis
  • Rail Support,Y-Axis
  • Frame Base Fitting

About to head off to work now, but I'll do a quick update on the changes when I get in tonight.

Hate to bother you again, one of the stl files is missing from the download. The bracket that holds the tensioner for the Y-Axis is not in the download packet. That's the center piece in front that the PVC goes through. Any chance that you forgot to include it?

Really like this, I have an A8 with a broken frame piece and I saw this and decided to give it a try. Have you updated anymore of the files yet?

Yes, a few..My main focus has been on the wiring and cable management... It's been hard to find time though lately due to my day job. I'll try to push my updates in the next day or so.

Keep up the good work my friend, I am looking forward to build this once everything is replaced with plastic parts.

Loving the idea of this 3d printer so I can build some for giving away and for school projects.

Also I have access to tons of stepper motors salvaged from big photocopiers machines so cost will drop considerably.


Funny you mentioned school project...was just talking to my wife about how this would make a cool in-school project for my sons engineering and science class (6th grade). Going to talk to the teacher to see what would be involved.

Man, do I wish, I never decided to address my hoarder tendencies a few years ago when I made the decision to throw out the ton of VCR's, printers, CDROM drives I was holding on. Oh what I could do with all those parts now!

I got about a week so worth of designing/printing for the external electronics enclosure I'm designing for this printer, then it's back to putting the build documentation together. Once that's done I'll start working on getting the rest of the rails converted.

So you might have a little wait :-)


What are the pipes in mm? diameter

Pipes are 3/4" SCH-40 PVC pipes (~26.6mm OD). Lengths needed are currently documented in the assembly STEP file. I'm working on the build instructions. All dimensions in the assembly file are in mm.

Have you considered using metal conduit instead?

Not really, PVC is extremely easy to work with and it's closer resembles the end material...namely 3d printed extrusions. It would be easy enough though for someone who wanted it to substitute the PVC with conduit.

One of the things that I'm trying to maintain in my design is 'horizontal' compatibility. Basically, as I replace the metal items with 3d printed alternatives, the base design will still be compatible with its metal alternative. Even now, if one wanted, they could replace the 3d printed Y-rails with the A8 original guide rods by just designing a bracket to hold them. When I designed the rails, I maintained the travel distance to support this.

My ultimate goal is to replace all the metal items with 3d printed alternatives. That being said, I like the idea of enabling people to to use off-the-shelf components.

I'm thinking about building a larger version of the Anet A8, using my existing components. I'm okay with using rods for the bearings, but I would like something a bit stiffer - metal conduit is pretty cheap and stiff. Maybe I can remix your design? :)

Do you have the original design files? I assume that's what the .STEP format file is? What program would open it?

The .STEP file can be opened in FreeCAD (https://www.freecadweb.org/).

Very nice im going to use this and convert my tronxy x1 into this. Cant wait for the details on the piping. Thanks for your hard work it looks good and stiff. hard to tell with the video being 240p but looks like it had nice good layers

I'll work on uploading another video. Anything you would like to see printed/photographed?

nothing in particular just a higher res video to see how it prints, but it looked good

You should (for aesthetic purposes only of course) make the ends that are visible 'capped' so it's not hollow. Like the frame ends, would be solid layer on the ends. If that makes sense? Again, purely an aesthetic purpose. Love your concept though!

Yeap, made plans for that. The top z-axis fittings extend past the pvc extrusions by about 4mm to allow caps to be inserted. Just hasn't been high priority. Plus, it leaves something pretty easy for someone wanting to contribute to accomplish :)

Hey WOW I’m gonna make this what are the size of the pipes length and Diameter and would the bed belt cause tension on the front and back pipes ?

Working on the proper build document now. Hopefully will have it done sometime this week. Until then I've included the assembly step file that can be opened in FreeCAD or your CAD program of choice. You should be able to get the dimensions from that. If not, let me know.

Also, all the lengths are called out in the file name for the extrusions. I'm using 3/4" SCH40 PVC pipes.

Pipes used for the y-axis tensioner are extremely stiff due to their short length. I doubt there will be any bending.

Comments deleted.

What is that in mm so I know hat to buy