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skartz

CR-10 Y-Axis Belt Tensioner Remix

by skartz Oct 1, 2017
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Hey, I know this is an old part by now, but do you still have the tinkercad files? Could you make them available?

I would love to move the parts that slide into the 4020 extrusion to the top & bottom of the bracket instead of left & right. Reason is that on my printer, the wheels are hitting the bracket and it limits the movement range of the printer.

Thanks a lot!

That's some amazing tinkercad skill

Will this work with an Ender 3 Pro?

Hi all,I printed donnyb99's bracket and soon realized the the original belt was not big enough for the new bracket,I also found that I not only had to find an M5 bolt which is impossible here in the Philippines,but I also had to find a new bold to hold the bearing.Job abandoned.

My belt was also to small and with donnyb99's. Did this remixed bracket give you the space you need? It looks very similar to the other one. You don't get amazon in the Philippines?

Belt is still too short on this remix on my Hictop CR-10 bought in late 2018. Bummer. Wish I read the comments first.

An M5 Screw is a 5mm screw, you can't find that there? it's a very very common screw.

Welcome to the Philippines.

If you dont have a common simple screw, I wonder, do you have screws for sale at all?

There is no where you can go that has a variety of screws,but that said it's almost impossible to get most western items here.

Even than, this is not rocket science, theres got to be equivalent such as a 3/16 Screw (which is the same as 5mm)

This is the bracket that is needed for a cr-10s. I only cut 10mm of the top. other wise the y axis cant travel the full 300mm

Built this for my Tevo Tornado, worked just fine. Two points though:
1) the length of the original m4 screw is just below what would be needed for the nut safely sitting on the screw. Yes, it grips few threads, but this is not a long-term solution - I will have to get a longer screw as a replacement
2) the massive bracket (I printed it with 50% infill) is held together by a tiny bridge in the middle. Bends like hell, and I am glad it did not snap. A second connection between left and right would for sure be good.

Other than that - great design!

it mounts with the original strap? Thank you

I have a CR10s with 1 month use where the belt is pretty much new and it's very very very hard to mount. I had to remove the belt from under the belt and disassemble the Stepper motor and put it back under the bed.

Although looking at the design, I don't see much better ways.

Yes it does.

OK thank you

Either one. PLA works just fine.

Do you think this would work on a CR-10S?

Yes it will.

I printed this 3 times with different filament, on everyone the "rear" legs snap backwards as print finishes the top of the arch. I even tried with an 80% infill, I should add that this is NOT due to the part design, but rather it is a difficult print. After a day of bridge tests I realized that I need to run the extruder at 230+ for PLA. I had printed 10 different parts and thought I had it figured out, I was wrong. The successes were only due to the parts being close to bed or simplicity. GREAT fit and part, thanks for stepping up my game!

Had this issue, too, accompanied by dissolving "overhang" layers. The solution for dissolving layers also solved legs falling over: printed it with support (wanted to play around with Z hop, too, but it would not have helped the unclean arc issue).
By the way, I run PLA at 185° and results are very good.

How are you positioning on the bed?

Standing as directed, I added to my explanation above. I am sorry that my first revision sounded like the part design was at fault. Thank you for your design work and your response.

No worries. I am surprised that running PLA at anything higher than 215-220 is not "cooking" it and causing extreme oozing and stringing. I normally run at about 205-210 on my CR-10. Can I ask if you are using adequate z-hop during retraction moves? This will prevent the nozzle from smashing into the print, especially in area where some warping (steep overhangs) may arise.

Good design, not tested yet, but I can say that tolerances are REALLY tight, like I spent half an hour to make the slider sliding freely in the housing...

I modified a bit the design, I will post the result soon after doing some tests.

Thanks for sharing !

If your exeriencing that tight of tolerance, then I would recommend you run a calibration test and also make sure to caliper your filament and enter the exact measurement into your slicer. Sounds like you have some over extrusion that's fattening up your parts.

Well... I printed a lot of things with this filament before and the result was good, when I printed the X-axis tensionner : no tolerance problem
I printed a tolerance cube 20x20 : seems to be good (no digital calipers, but it was a dead on 20 for me)

Anyway, have a good day !