Rotary Axis For Diode Laser

by ThothLoki Oct 3, 2017
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Hey, awesome design! I’m working on building it for my DIY laser engraver.

I had some questions about the non-printed parts. What are the lengths of the screws? I’m assuming then6/32 means #6, 32 thread and #8, 32 thread. But no length was listed.

Awesome to hear!!!
for the non printed parts, i do mean 6/32 and 8/32. those are bolt designations. #6 and #8 are screw designations

Honestly, for the chuck, i suggest you print danowar's out. it should work on my base but it is a bit larger and can handle more items. That is what i did.

I would have to double check the lengths i used but i believe they were around 40-50mm or 1.5-2"

Laser Engraver Rotary Axis
by danowar

Hey! I wanted to know how is the max opening of the jaws, i want to know if it could hold a wine bottle. Thanks, and awesome design!}

I do not know the opening distance. It will not hold a wind bottle by the bottom but will hold the neck. See the pictures. I have one showing it holding a wine bottle.
If you want a larger chuck, have a look at @danowar here and his rotary chuck. I believe that one is 120mm opening. I am using his jaws now as I converted it for my use and it will hold a wine bottle.

Thanks. Yep, i recognize that i made a dumb question! I didnt see the pic. Im sorry!

Hahahaha. No worries!
This was my v1 of the rotary I made. Last winter, it broke because of the cold so I started designing a v2. I spent all last summer working on it and have one person beta testing it as we speak. As soon as I get word back on the design, I will be posting that as well.

on the chuck with post did you print that with support, touching buildplate?

Yes, i did. Especially at that time, my printer was horrible at bridging. If you machine can do bridging decently, you probably do not need supports

Ive printed this with a few minor changes (110% size). The question I have, is how tight are your bolts for the chuck tension? too tight and I can't get it to move with out hulk strength, too loose and I can't get it to hold the part.Is there something I'm missing to "lock" the chuck in place? I was thinking of figuring out some kind of locking clamp/bolt/etc

I had a similar issue as you with how tight the bolts need to be. I find that it takes a lot of fine tuning to get just right. This spring, my rotary setup broke (dont leave it in the garage in -15F all winter, i guess).
I have been working with danowar and am working on combining his belted design with mine. His chuck is larger and has locking bolts for the chuck that are independent.

Is the 5th picture the final result of laser etching on glass using only the stock hardware and rotary attachment? Did you have to use any etching chemical or more powerful laser?

Yes. That was my first test on glass with the rotary. If you look closely, the engraving get bad towards the bottom. I was increasing the speed to see how it would etch and if it would slip.

I used my 2.5w laser for this. You do need to add a resist to the glass as a diode laser will naturally go right though the glass. I have used black spray paint and black acrylic paint. Both have worked well. Spray paint is easier to get in but harder to get off (Goof off). Acrylic is harder to brush on to a smooth even coat but super easy to remove (warm water)

Do you connect the rotary motor to the same pins or connector as X or Y? or use a completely different axis on the card? also, do you use any software to change the gcode?

Thank you.

Yes, I replace either the X or Y axis on the controller with the Nema17 on the rotary. Most prefer to replace the Y axis but I have been replacing the X axis so I don't have to worry about having to adjust the driver current. It probably doesn't matter though.

I use T2Laser (www.T2laser.org). T2Laser has rotary built in. You tell it the diameter or circumference and it calculates the new steps per mm. It also asks which cable you replaced.

I see you used the matte black paint to avoid reflection. Have you tried masking tape on glass?

I've ordered the same machine as you and trying to learn everything about it, as much as possible, before it comes.

Is 2.5W enough power? Would you recommend getting a more powerful module?

2.5 works very well. A 5w may be better because the dot is bigger but I have had no problems with the laser.

I have not used masking tape but did switch from spray paint to acrylic paint. It comes off super easy with warm water and adds enough resist to engrave nicely

Question: In the secondary piece where the base of the bottle rests on (with the two bearings and the threaded rod) - how do you make this work?? I've put the bearings in the places where I believe they should go, to replicate the image, but I believe I'm missing something. Can you provide any instructions to this piece by chance? Thanks!

The back piece take 4 bearings total. 2 for the arm that the bottle rests on, 1 for the top cover for the threaded rod and 1 for the bottom of the base piece. I then used locknuts (nuts with lock washers in my case because that is what I had). One at the bottom to hold the bearing in, one on each end of the top bearing and some regular nuts glued to the support platform.

I hope this helps. I will upload some more pictures of that piece showing it from all sides soon.

What piece couples the motor shaft to the chuck? Am I missing something?

Sorry about that. I just pulled one from Thingiverse that fit.
I used something like this. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:286339
or this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7059

I will try to find the exact one I used and add to this Thing.

5mm/8mm coupler
by toxnico
Z-Coupler for Prusa simplified Mendel

I used the second one initially but now use the first link.

Great! Thank you. Love this design!

Thanks! Hope it works well for you.

Hi, which kind of laser head do you have use? can you share Power or weblink?

I have an A3 machine with a 2.5w ttl Laser. I bought it from Banggood.com

You could always incorporate a 3:1 or 5:1 3D printed planetary reduction gear for your Nema17 if you needed extra torque
Such and awesome design!!!!

Thanks. You don’t need much torque for the design. With the othe end of the work piece being supported by bearings, it doesn’t take much to roll