Prusa i3 Pro B - Z axis Upgrade

by Davidlewtas Oct 3, 2017
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Hi Annatar27, I am still working on it. Having an issue getting vertical alignment correct, the original 8mm frame was not cut very well, just need to get the motor mount plate sorted. Will update when done.

Would it be possible to have your original CAD files so that I can modify them to work with my frame thickness or can you do it. Thanks John.

I too am thinking of doing this upgrade, did you successfully mod it to 8mm acrylic frames?

Mine came with a wood frame, once I have money and time I will be upgrading to aluminium extrusion.

David have sent you a message with my email address.

Big thanks John.

What's your email address and I will send you them.

Excellent upgrade, I started printing out the top plates and noticed the slots for the frame seamed narrow. I have the Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro B Acrylic and the frame is 8mm thick and your slots are 6mm. Is that correct, thanks.

Glad you like the upgrade and I have the wood version so there might be some slight differences.

Kind regards Dave

Just curious, what part of this 'enables' the lead screw swap? You can run lead screws the same as the threaded rods are can't you?

You can if you go down the fast route and don't use ball bearings bud, however it's not something I would recommend as you'll get just as much banding as you would with threaded rod.

If you use bearings you'll get Z wobble if the lead screw's bent. If you leave the lead screw unrestricted then the rods will do the alignment, the lead screws just providing the vertical lift.

Easiest way to avoid wobble is just use one of the many brackets to disconnect the X axis from the Z.

It's up to you what you do buddy, this is how I've done it and it works perfectly for me, having the lead screw trapped between 2 ball bearings gives me better results than any other way of doing this and changing to lead screws from threaded rod removed all the artefacts on the Z axis.

Yea I was just trying to figure out what part of it enabled the lead screw swap, but now I've heard your reasoning I can see it's primarily for bearing block mounting.

I mounted lead screws on mine, but when it gets near the bottom due to the nut being slightly larger, it's causing binding. Hence searching for a solution :)

I had similar problems with binding issue this was due to the couplers that came with the lead screws, however I swap them out for the original ones and levelled out my printer and this seems to remove all the problems I had with binding.

I really do like this printer but there's nothing more I can do with it to make it any better, I've decided that my next Project will be to build tech2c's hypercube only a little bit bigger than his.

Which couplers? The clear plastic tube? I figured I wouldn't be able to fit it on considering that the stock threaded rods are machined to 5mm at the ends. I don't have a lathe to machine the lead screws down accurately unfortunately.

I've arrived at the same conclusion as you. Probably going to ditch the frame & use the guts for a hypercube type.

I think I was kind of lucky as my original machine came with couplers however the machines afterwards came with heat shrink tubing I've not got a clue why they stop doing this.

I've done every single upgrade I can think for this machine and there's nothing really I can upgrade anymore and I kind of want a bigger machine that I've built, at least this way I know it won't go wrong and if it does go wrong I know how to fix it.

The hypercube is a good platform to start with however I wants makes you upgrade to it.

I've attached a picture of my printer as it is all fully upgraded.

Nice upgrades, you have the same machine as i, a GEEETech Prusa i3 PRO B,... anyway, I'd like to ask, I'm totally useless at maths and I now have the T8 Lead Screws, 8mm per rotation and 2mm thread.

The z-axis steps per mm, was yours 400? this is the part I'm having issues with and I'm waiting on a new GT2560 A+ mainboard to arrive also.

Did you design all the green parts also? or did you find them on here, these are the upgrades I'd like to do, Once I get used to the machine?

Awesome work, thanks for sharing.

Both X and Y are set at +079.10 Z is set to +0399.8 E is set at +0105.0

They're all steps/mm

I hope this helps you

Hey,... Sorry for the delay.

Yes, these numbers have helped and I'll try to find time later to do some editing and hope the results work out... thanks for that,...

In relation to the Green Z-Axis upgrades, are these your own design?
I've just found and downloaded your "Prusa i3 Pro B - Improvement Pack V1.5 (Updated)" and just wanted to ask, are the Green Z-Axis upgrades in this pack?

again, thank you, for all the awesome upgrades.

Hi, yes they are all my own work, have a look at my other stuff.

Kind regards Dave

Hello I am currently out doing driving lessons at the moment, once I get back in I will send you the details.

Kind regards Dave