BLV mgn12 3D Printer mod for Anet A8 / AM8 / Prusa I3 clone

by Blv Oct 21, 2017
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Here comes updated corner block with aligned holes

I purchased a new Ramps 1.6 for this new build. Would I just use the same marlin from my old Ramps 1.4 that I used on my Anet A8?

I have made modification to cornerblock, the other set of holes were not properly aligned to the Extrusion slot. Will post it today here.

I hard to understand from the picture what is the part.

One of the four corners, e.g. Front_left_corner.stl.

Comments deleted.

Hy Blv

Can you please share the config files for the duet? I cannot find all the info I need to complete the website config they provide.

Thank you.

hello, someone has the files .cad or .scad to be able to modify them, why buy iko rails of 12mm

Hi its inside the ZIP file, its a Step file that can be open with a cad software.

if in the zip are the .stl which I do not find it easy to make small modifications!!

i see that you did this in fusion360, any chance you can put up the f3d file also?

btw... there is no zip file but the step files are there :-)

Unfortunately, it is not possible because of a technical issue. i imported another part that was made separately as "linked". exporting the f3d is not possible because of that. if i am trying to "brake" the link it deforms and change all the related sketches. So for now i can only export it a CAD file that can be open with Fusion360 and any cad software.

you think this will have a small chance of working?

i have now played arround with the design and i have made a new bed carriage plate for the mk42 & mk52 bed

i noted that you have added the option for a fan to cool off the X motor, but not the Y motor, why is that?

i will try and make a top mounted Z endstop, with a top mounted endstop of each Z rail marlin can sync them automatic

if you have an idea for that i would like to hear back from you

had a quick look at the step file, i think it will do the job

but one thing i made a note of is that the bed mount holes are 214mm between and not 209mm, what bed is it?

yeah, those linked things can be a real pain, i know that from when i build the Mendel90 design in fusion

my plan with this design is to mod it so there is space for the mk42 and mk52 heat beds, they share the same mounting holes as the mk2 bed but i has 2 extra holes in the center and of course they are bigger than the mk2

Hi just finished build do i need any input in marlin for stepper motors setting
Or will the Anet a8 file in marlin do I have the gears and belt in this process still got the original gears on steppermotors but changed the ones on the belt tensioners to the ones in this project need a bit of help thanks

Hi could I get a 235x235 head bed on this build with the extended height build log or do I need to extend x axis also don’t know what room to leave around bed and frame thanks

anyone got a simplify3d fff file for printing with pet-g?

I've gotten good results with this. Don't forget to take the Teflon out of your hot end.

Didn't you have a excel sheet that includes on the file before for customizing build size?

Hi nice build in the process on doing this conversion could someone tell me what I do with the step file in the thing files thanks


Love your modification of the A8, I have one that is almost stock, the only upgrade I have done is changed to a e3d hotend and a bowden extruder setup and for me that upgraded the quality of my machine by about 50%.

However i Do have sets of MGM12 500mm Rails and Blocks lying around from another project that never saw the light of day. I dont want to cut my rails so I will uses them at this size and change the extrusion to suit those lengths, my main question is, is there any benefit to upgrading all belts to screws?

hello blv mgn12 con bondtech..and bltouch ???

Hi!, I use on my printer the bondtech bowden style dual geared extruder. It works much better than any of the extruders I have tested so far. I really recommend it. About bltouch, it is not a very accurate sensor (I have tested a chinese one, maybe the original is better, I do not know.), so I decided to drop it. So far I have only the simple Z sensor. I have made a very robust build-plate support, you level the plate correctly once and it will stay like that for a loooooong time, no need for bed level sensor. Very rarely I need to adjust a little bit. Check my HGL15 XY upgrade for this printer:


HGL15 X&Y rail for BLV mod of Anet A8 / AM8 / Prusa
Comments deleted.

Hello, I'm thinking of upgrading to mgn12 except for the Z axis as it wouldn't provide much benefit. Are there any mods that have mounts for the Z rods and X aluminium extrusion? Or maybe if someone is interested or bored to make one? I'm not good with cad (have to change that) and I think one would just have to combine the Z mount, X profile mount and this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1919544

Anet A8 X-Carriage Mounts
by Leo_N

I think the MGN upgrade on the Z axis is just as important as the X and Y. Due to the rigid MGN structure the Z wobble effect is 99.9% gone. This is a huge improvement of the 3D print quality compared to the Anet.

I admire you because you did a great job. I will probably resume your information and modify an old Anet A8 already modified with chassis in 2040 Aluminum. Thank you for sharing.

I was curious about the length & height used for the extrusion channels. I've got all the components to build the AM8, and the channels for the MGN mod in the Y direction are 24mm longer and the channels in the Z direction are 60mm longer. Is this just to allow for more travel, or is there some other reason for the longer channels? I'd be interested in doing this mod, but since I already have the AM8 channels, I can't really justify replacing the channels I've already got that haven't even been used yet.

I am afraid you may not have read through the additional text the designer provided. there are 2 size options for the frame, and he mentions specifically that the rail lengths are subject to the Frame option you are using.

Ah, I did miss that. I thought I had read it all, and I looked at the downloaded files and looked through the pdf there. I will look at it again.

Good day. Beautiful design and easy printing. Thanks
Could you add a mount for the 18mm sensor and blow the bowden volcano extruder?

Does anyone know if I can print bigger bed levelling knobs with this mod?

These are what I use.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2956038 (shameless plug, my design, sorry)

Not sure how much bigger you want to go, there's some more space beyond what mine use up.

See the pic.

Yet Another Thumbwheel

I'll print these.

You asked me in a reply how much more room, but that post doesn't seem to be here, although I got email notified.

There's maybe 2-3 mm all around to make them a bigger diameter and possibly a tad thicker.
The end stop gets in the way of a too big diameter, and the rail gets in the way of too thick.
I made mine about as thick and big as you can get and still easily maneuver them when leveling AND getting the bed on and off without having to fight the process.

All I did was use them both up and down, with the small flanges against the Y plate.
(I run a 3 point mount bed with locking thumbwheels, no springs.)

See the attached.

I edited the question about more room out because I decided to use your design.
Thanks for the photos too.
Thanks again !!

Comments deleted.

I'd go with a direct drive extruder with this setup instead of a Bowden tube for even better results. Join it with the Prusa MMU2 to get 5 filament switching.

Can anyone tell me how to connect the bl touch to the duet 2 wifi v1.04? I can't find anything about this.

Hello onthe ED3D v6 clone cube effector what 3d printed blower nozzle fits thanks

Thank BLV, excellent build. I've just published a mod for Quadfusion extruder mount. Meant to setup as a re-mix, but messed up.


Quadfusion MGN12 Mount
by x4tec

Hi mate thanks for all the info just got all parts printed and have stripped my Anet A8 and have re assembled on AM8 frame just wondered if you could send a step by step guide for doing the programming eg what to do with step file, marlin etc
I know how to upload marlin just not up on re calibrating positions for hot end bed size and step files
I am very new to this but have built a anycubic liner plus and am getting excellent results many thanks

Hi again...LOL !
Was just wondering if you know of anone creating a "Z Endstop Fine Tuning Adjuster" like the one in the included link, or will I need to try to make one myself?

Thanks !!

ANET A8 Z Endstop fine adjustment

I came up with something today. Just added a piece to the "X motor holder", then another 2 pieces to print, and I added a screen-shot so you could see how it gets installed Etc. Once printed, you add a 30mm screw and nut to make it work.
This is just a rough draft, so if anyone is interested, that is better at Cad software than me (I made this in Tinkercad), you can go ahead and make it better looking, etc. If you do please share your upgrade with me.....thanks !!

That's actually a really good idea! I had to readjust my z endstop countless time before it was perfect.

On another note. You really shouldn't buy expensive lineair rails from Misumi. Rails from Aliexpress CNA are good enough for this purpose. Remember: you're making a hobby 3d printer, not an industrial CNC machine ;).

Hey BLV,

I was looking at this and figured I may as well just build a new printer entirely with this, but expand it to a 300x300x300 volume.

I am looking at the specs for the BOM (I have an AM8 already so I had the BOM from the old build already as well). and figure if I extrapolate the X and Y by 80mm from the specs you have (You already have the Z stretched to 300mm build volume) I can get the right sizes for things.

I have
4x Y Axis - 464mm 2040 and 2x 500mm MGN (I had 444mm 2040, but moved it to 464mm to fit 500mm rails, I think 450 MGN would be too short by about 20mm if I did my math right).

1x X Axis - 500mm 2020 and 450mm MGN

3x Top/Front/Back - 393mm 2040

2x Z Axis - 500mm 2040 and 400mm MGN Rails

I am planning to also put a Titan Aero on this setup, and build it with steppers that have integrated acme screws (400mm lead) . This is probably a build I will start mid summer, but I want to verify what I am looking at is right here.

Hy Ben Levi. From what I've read on YouTube comments, you upgraded the electronics too. Could you please provide me with a BOM for those?

I would like to purchase my MGN12's from Misumi US but the selection is very confusing.
Can someone (maybe someone who already got them there) give me the part numbers for the cheapest options in rails and carriages from Misumi?
I would be forever in your debt !!
I actually asked Misumi themselves but I guess my order is too small because no-one answered my email.

Misumi's replacement component would be a SE2BLZ13 carriage block.

Same as an MGN12H but only 2 mounting holes on the upper face: not 4.

Add a -400 (or whatever length you want) as in, SE2BLZ13-400, and you've got yourself a carriage block and a 400mm rail, both pieces for only $137.00.

Prices go up as you get longer, less as you get shorter.

Actually $117, with 4 mounting holes it looks like, maybe 2 carriages as well, but thank you so much !!!!
You, Sir, are the best !!

For anyone else needing this information.....

Bed (2 rail with 2 carriage blocks each) -
2 x SE2BLZ13-400 = $117.27usd each
Total (Minus shipping and taxes) = $234.54usd

Z Axis & Gantry (1 rail with 1 carriage block each)
3 x SEBLZ13-360 = $82.89usd each
Total (Minus shipping and taxes) = $248.67usd

Thanks again "MakeItMakeItMakeIt" !!!

My bad.

They DO have a 4-hole block that matches the MGN12, but the hole spacing is 15mm x 20mm, as opposed to 20mm x 20mm on the cheap MGN's.
They also have a 2-hole block as well.
My ducking fyslexia had me confusing the two.

Last I checked (2 months ago?) it was $137 for 1 400mm rail and 1 block.
Good to see them getting cheaper.

And please don't call me Sir, titles are so demeaning.

LOL !!
Thanks again !!

Hy all. I need some help. I want to order the extrusions, but the seller has 3 models : v-slot, t-slot with 5 mm slot and t-slot with 6mm gap. Does it matter what I buy? I'm only asking because I want all the parts to fit with the rest of the BOM. I already ordered everything else.Please help

The 6mm gap version looks likes the one that I also used for my build :). The 5mm one will have issues with the M5 bolts and the v-slot one might have issues placing the mgn12 rails on top (not sure though)

If the 6 mm was good for you that's what I'l buy. Thank you very much.

I bought my profiles here: https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/index.php?k=428&lang=eng

They even sell complete kits now with all the profiles.

Hello BLV, one more question, where did you get that spiral cable tidy from?

Please ignore, I found it ;) Your documentation is very thorough ;)

Could you make a BOM of screws/parts we need to buy for those who've already assembled the AM8 mod? I'm not sure which screws I do and don't need to buy, and I really would like to avoid spending the extra money. If there already is such a BOM, would you kindly direct me to it?

Best Regards,

Hi, if you download the files, then check the Readme that is attached, it has the full BOM inside it with all the screws etc and links to purchase them. ;)

I’m looking for a BOM that does not include the AM8 BOM, not the complete BOM. I already have an AM8 assembled, and don’t want to buy more screws and bolts than I need.

If it doesn't exist, you could put both BOM's in Excel file and subtract the nuts and bolts so you don't order too many.

Hello Guys, can anyone help me with a few things. I've read through the comments and can't seem to find a definitive answer. I have the following extrusion sizes. 2x 500mm, 4x 364mm, 3x 313mm and the 2020 @ 420mm, which is identical to the required list in the BOM. What size build plate will I need? Is it the standard 220x220? Or is it the 300x300?

The the standard build plate is 220x220 :)

Thank you ;)

Dear BLV,
could you please point out a compatible fan duct for the MK3 carriage? If I am not mistaken there's no fan duct for the MK3 carriage in the files section. Thanks!

You can find the link in the Thing description, however here is the link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2712591/files
attached screenshot of the item you need download from there.

Prusa i3 MK3
by Kissman

Thank you very much!

this printer looks like it can fall down the stairs and still finish the print in process.....

I think it will :)

Yeah, AM8 frame is very sturdy, with this mod is even stronger. Thanks for this awesome project BLV!

Hi Blv, my comment kinda got buried. So here it goes again :). Could you please share your acceleration and jerk settings for x,y and z? I'm still finetuning the printer, and would like to know what the settings are I should aim for.

If it helps you I share mine. I have X-Jerk:15, Y-jerk:5, Z-jerk :0.4 and Extruder jerk 15 with acceleration 2000. But I think you have to do some test for yourself and find out which fits better for you.

for accurate details i am using acc 1200 and 12 jerk

thx for this build, i do it too…
can you please share the step file of the ANET adapter ?


Thank you, i just noticed its missing.
don't worry, I will upload it today.

can you please tell me how can i fix the Timing belt in this head ?

Do you know if ptfe chain oil could be a good option to lube the mgn12 rails ?
Also you commented somewhere that you upgraded the mainboard to a mks-gen board, could you possibly share the stl ?

Kind regards

Has anyone seen a dual E3D V6 bowden X-carriage for this BLV MGN12 mod?

looks good, can't wait for my next build.

Really nice project....I'm looking forward for my next project...my wife will not be happy :)
I really appreciate your work here and your willingness to share it with the world. The first printer you designed really works great for me.
By the way I'm a quiet experienced electronics designer (also in embedded software design I'm not quiet a beginner). If you think you need some support with electronics design for your new printer I'll be more than happy to jump in.

I have been printing with this mod for the Anet A8 for a few months now. On Black Friday I ordered a DuetWifi board. I was wondering if you had the configuration files for the DuetWifi.

Hey Eric,

I have a DuetWifi as well. I use sensorless homing for X and Y (not perfect settings yet though) and a regular (A8) endstop for the Z. I did try a BLtouch clone, but it didn't work unfortunately. You probably can find some remnents of the Gcode for that in here.

Please use this as a starting point and try to understand all the lines of gcode. Start with config.g and then the home.g files.

Hey martijnpeters,

Did you replace the connectors on the servo motor end or just keep what the Anet had to plug into the DuetWifi?

I made this printer with all new parts. Maybe not the best design to do that, but learned a lot this way :). I didn't replace the standard connectors that came with the new steppers (standard dupont).

what steppers did you get?

Hey BLV, finally finished my printer :D. Still have some calibration to do though. Could you share what your Jerk and Acceleration settings are?

Hey ,

is there a STEP-File for the ANET A8 Exruder Adapter Beta available?



is there someone who knows the print dimensions of the BLV? And which dimensions of extrusions do i need for a 300x300 mm buildplate?

Thanks in Advance

Hi Klaus,

if you use the offered metal frames from dold mechatronik the xy-size ist 200x200mm. The printing height depends on the length of the used z-profiles. In my case I bought the 500mm z.profiles. The printng height is about 30-35cm.

A 300x300mm build plate is 10cm longer in x and y direction. So you the profiles in x and y direction must be 10cm longer than for the standard 200mm x 200mm build plate (as used in this project). It highly recommendes to read the PDF-drawingin the dowloadable files here.

This project is compatible to the Anet A8 (or compatible printer) dimensions. For other printer dimensions it is easy to dadapt to your own requirements (see technical drawings). But tke care how yout build plate ist mounted to the frame.



I suppose you're from germany:


Couple of notes to share about MGN12's purchased from China.

1) I recommend you order a few extra MGN12H blocks. Some of them I got in my order from China just would hardly move on the rails and were out of spec or something, and the others glide like butter. I think there is fairly consistent quality failure rate on those MGN12 blocks from China and I am guessing everyone who just orders exactly the number they need will end up having 1+ that do not work very well. So personally I would recommend you go ahead and add an extra 2-3 of them at the same time when you order the rails etc. I have ordered some more to hopefully replace a couple I am not happy with and now I have to wait for more time. You can always use the extras as spares. Here is the link to extra blocks on the aliexpress store recommend by BLV: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-MGN12H-block-for-MGN12-12mm-Linear-Guide-12mm-linear-rail-way-Long-linear-carriage/32772242506.html

2) Most of the MGN12H blocks I received from China, had some ball bearings missing. In order to work fully, the blocks need to have both sides filled with only a single empty space left the size of one ball. I would suggest you order some extra ball bearings to have some to fill in the missing ones from shipping and to use as spares. The balls in MGN12H blocks are actually imperial sized 3/32" ball bearings. There are supposed to be 33per side and 65total in each MGN12 block I think. I ordered these from Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-32-Inch-440-Stainless-Steel-Ball-Bearings-G5/29193908693

3) After having used a couple of techniques for cleaning and lubricating the ones I got from china, I would say the complicated process of totally taking them apart as shown in some youtube videos just is not needed. I did that and it worked ok, but its lots of trouble and its easy to bend the guides out of wack. I had just as much success simply soaking them "as is" in alcohol a little bit to clean the old oil/grease off of them, and then just spraying them with WD40 (as a cleaning solvent) and moving the ball bearings a little bit to ensure the WD40 gets down into the channels. And then just drying them off, and lubricating them with some lightweight 3-in-1 oil, like you would use for sewing machines, or door hinges put right onto the bearings and wiping off the excess. That is all I had to do to get the good ones to run extremely smooth.

Thank you nixfu :)
I bought some great spare steel balls from here: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/c9yLlfIC

I just happen to notice something.. in this photo there is fan cover on the x-axis motor. Anyone have any idea where that came from its not in the files.

Well, there's no photo in your post so.....

I believe (but I could be wrong) that is the 4010_Spitfire_Cover.stl,

It's the 1st file in the Thing Files list.

Alternatively, here's a 4010 fan shroud I modeled up. Similar but slightly diff.

Hi Guys,
Im currently using AM8 and has plans to upgrade it to MGN12 rails, can someone point me to the right BOM coming from AM8? I think I only need the mgn12 rails as I still have some spare 2040 extrusion as excess from the AM8 build. thanks

Unfortunately its not well documented clearly because the BOM listed on this page, is a sum of all the parts needed from the both the AM8 and new parts needed. But, here is what I remember off the top of my head in doing it myself, forgive me if I forget something.

1) You will need to replace the Y axis sides with longer pieces to hold the MGN12 rails for the bed, so that will be 4 364mm 2040's, (2 for the side rails, and 2 for the Y bed rails).
2) You will also need 1 piece of 420mm 2020 extrusion for the X carriage rail.
3) The X and Z axis frame extrusions are the exact same as the AM8 so those can be reused.

4) If you use those extrusion parts above, then you will need the "option 1 (original AM8 size)" MGN12 rails as listed, 2x400mm(y/bed rails), and 3x350mm(2 for Z, and one for X).

That is all the "metal" you need to go from AM8->BLV mod I think.

There will be quite a bit of printed parts, most of the AM8 printed parts have to be replaced. In addition to all the X axis carriage parts, etc, you will also need to print new Z axis motor mounts(and top if you want it) because the Z-motors have to stick a little further out away from the frame, than the ones on the AM8 in order to accommodate the thickness of the new X carriage system.

Also, you will need some additional types of screws than the AM8, particularly the M3 type that are used to mount the MGN12 rails to the extrusions. Go through the BOM and see what you do have and don't have on hand already. Also look at the diagram, it has the screws needed for each part listed as well. That would help to make sure you don't count the screws already used in the AM8 etc.

That simple process of going from the AM8->BLV really should be documented better on the front page I think.

thanks, greatly appreciated.

What is that strange knob in one of the images? I don't see mention of it anywhere? the one on the display, it has like a fine adjustment dial on it.

This maybe what you are talking about? https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-44169

It is listed in the notes at the bottom of the BLV page.

Based on your BOM, you listed M3x20 screw, M3x32 screw, M4x10 screw, but the hyperlink shows socket head screw. Is it a sockethead or tapping or machine screw? Please advise as I really like this design and I am shopping around for this project, thank you.

One thing to do would be to look at the drawing. It has every screw listed next to the holes in every part. I think that the socket head screws are used quite a bit when it comes to putting together the X-axis carriage which has multiple parts that get mated together.


Does someone have a site to buy the extrusion? I would like black version, and cheap is best :) I've seen some arbitary cutting on ebay, but it is expensive. I cannot cut it myself..

I am currently looking at Misumi for the extrusion, good price and they can cut in certain length you desire.

There are vendors on AliExpress selling am8 kits. Also it’s the best place to find cheap extrusions in standard (350,400,450mm, etc sizes). And there are also vendors who will sell cheap custom cuts there as well. I had good luck ordering a couple of custom cut from this seller: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bVhycC2G I got 2x 364mm 2040 for only $12.34 US delivered.

Thanx! I will check it out! Was the quality good?

No problems at all. Aluminum is pretty much aluminum, the miling was just fine.

How did you get it so cheap shipped? I priced everything out and came to $300 they were charging allot for shipping even though it says free shipping??!!

I bought from this seller: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PC-BLACK-2020-European-Standard-Anodized-Aluminum-Profile-Extrusion-100-800mm-Length-Linear-Rail-for-CNC/32918828145.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.26804c4d1TkRuz

If you ask them they will do arbitary cutting. Also if you split the orders you will get free shipping :) But if you add all at once it is not free shipping..

Send them a message asking for a quote for exactly what you need. The web page can’t calculate on demand cutting.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Will this work with all 3030 extrusion? Someone is selling some locally for $5 a bar at 40" long. But my whole frame would have to be made out of this. They don't have any other sizes. What parts would have to be re-sized for 3030?

No, the parts will not fit to 3030. I had the same idea at the beginning since 3030 profiles I already had, but you will have to redesign most of the parts, it does not worth the effort. The 2020 aluminium frame costed me about 40$.

Thats what i was afraid of, thank you. Where did you get your material from? aliexpress is charging me allot for shipping!

I found a local store near my hometown on the internet, they cut it to size and shipped it with a courier.

Reading through the comments, it seems like some are maybe using 300x300 beds. Does a 300x300 bed work with the enlarged BLV (364mm) Y-extrusions while keeping the 313mm X-axis? Or maybe switching to a 200x300 Prusa i3 MK3 bed size work better?

It seems like 400mm rails that are listed in the BOM for original AM8 conversion is too long for a regular size AM8 y axis, even though that is what is in the BOM. 400mm would stick out over the ends. 20 + 20 + 313 is only !353mm total length from outer edge to outer edge of the bed Y axis of the original AM8.

The inner and outer 2040 extrusions are 364mm in length and are called out specifically in the exploded PDF.
364 + 20 + 20 = 404.
Plenty of room for 400mm MGN rails.
2mm of space to the outer extrusion on each end.

FWIW, I started out with 313mm rails (not sure why) and went up to 364mm after the fact, so you're not alone.

So just got my rails in and my bearings don't line up with any of my holes in my hotbed plate..... Ideas? I don't have to drill it do i? This is off the printer just bearing in my hand and the plate. Mgn12H bearings.

There's an Adapter Block that M3 capscrew bolts to each MGN carriage block, then the Y-carriage plate screws down into each Adapter Block, then the Hot Bed fits onto the Y-Carriage plate.
Without the Adapter Blocks you would have to drill the Y-carriage plate.

Doh, took so long to get my rails I forgot I printed those!. Thanks

i was wondering if it was possible to put a 400 x 400 mm heated bed on an am8 conversion

Can I use this design to rebuild my Prusa MK2,5?

i bought these 90° corner brackets and plates to fix the base extrusions together but for some reason, the assembly isn't completely flat when i lay it down on a flat surface (wobbles a bit)

In some of them you will have to take out with a pliers the small bombs below the part.

Comments deleted.

Great design! I'm in the process of modifying my Anet A8 to an AM8 and really considering these mods/upgrades. Where can I find the STL files for the main board and dual mosfet case you show here? Thank you for sharing!

Comments deleted.

Can you please add the STL for the MK3 fan duct ?

I just finished my blv mod and I have some kind of z banding in all my prints. The surface is smooth but the lines are visible. I have tried different temperatures, different layer fan speed and no luck. I am using mk3 x carriage.

What can I do to solve it? Where could be problem? Any ideas?

Thank you very much.

Obvious question, but I'll ask anyway...

Are your Z-steps calibrated accurately?

I read somewhere that whatever is is (I'm no authority but it makes sense to me), it should be an even number, as decimal values grow over time layer by layer, resulting in a taller than desired print.

That's my .02¢, hope it helps, let us know what you find.

Thank you very much for your comment!.

The z-steps and the extruder steps was calibrated. After your comment I double checked all my belts, pulleys, etc and everything seems to be fine.

Then, I started playing with the z-steps and the banding changed but always was there. The next step was check z-probe height and VOILA!. Banding is much less visible (at least to my eye). But now I don't have my z-steps calibrated :(

I will try to recalibrated the z-steps tonight with the new z-probe height and i will post the results. Thank you!

Where can I download it?

Comments deleted.

I have an AM8 already, do i only need the MGN rails and carriages (as well as the 3d printed items), or do I need other stuff?

You also need 3 extrusion
2 y @ 340mm
1 x @ ???
I'm not sure what the X length should be. I THINK 420.

Wait so can someone explain this too me. I'm looking to go from my AM8 to this setup. I understand that i'll need 3x 350mm Rails and 2x 400mm Rails. But do I also need to buy the bearings?? or do they come on the rails, the site makes it confusing a little. Someone please replay because this is a difference of over $100.00. Thank you

It depends on what you order and where you order from. Most come with one, so you should be set for the 350mm rails (they only need one each). The 400mm rails for the Y axis require two (for the y carriage), so you'll probably need to order two.

When I ordered, the seller from Aliexpress contacted me and asked which rails I wanted the extra bearing blocks mounted on.

Oh I need a total of 4 bearings for my Y axis?

Dang now that i'm looking at the PDF i'm seeing this haha. Back to AliExpress I go.

Yeah. Check out the PDF in the files section and you can see the bearing blocks.

Y-Axis = 4 Bearing Blocks
X-Axis = 1 Bearing Block
Z-Axis = 2 Bearing Blocks (one one each side)

All of the ones I saw on AliExpress came with the bearing carriages, including the one I bought

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Does anyone know of any x carriages that use two 40mm notcua fans rather than the 30mm and stock anet blower?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1337200 Something like this is what I use.

E3D V5 & V6 SINGLE & DUAL fan duct holder (Prusa I3) VER 2.0
by trustfm

Yes, there is a remix suit for 40mm fan: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2841379

MK3 - 40° E3D V6
by Lupo77

Thank you, I suppose one as a noctua is better than none as noctua, was hoping to replace both, I had a look at the radials but there isn't any that use both and have bltouch, I'll try printing this tomorrow!

Just ordered some blue PETG so i can get started on this asap. really looking forward to getting my a8 setup as a reliable printer. looks like i have a good test for my i3 mega i just got too. Really awesome design mate

My MGN came a few balls short. Will it affect performance over time?

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thank you my friend !
always enjoy creating and sharing.
I have a new project coming soon :)

Comments deleted.

Hi, I am really impressed with this design and the effort you have gone to and as such i starting my own build of it.
My question is: Can all the parts be printed in PETG or do some need to be/benefit being printed in PLA?
Many thanks

You can print from PETG, ABS etc.... PLA is simple to print and very common, but it dont like cyclic mechanical load, it will break after some time...

I've searched around online and can't quite figure out...what's the difference between MGN12 and MGW12 rails?

Thanks a ton for this. Looking forward to the build.

I don't know if this has been already asked. but will the stock sizes for the extrusions handle a 310-310 bed or would I need to adjust the x acis accordingly.

Hey Blv why are the corner pieces different? The back ones having the holes and slots in them? I'm sure there is some reason I just haven't figured it out yet, and I could not see any pictures of the back where you had them on. Thanks for this awesome mod by the way.

The back corners allow for routing cable in and out of them, if you like.

Is it compatible with anet 6?

Where did you get the green spring you are using to group the wires together? I like that idea compared to the spiral or split looms I've seen.

It's in the description;

Green PVC electrical tube for the extruder wires: sized 13mm - 1/2" can be on any electric shop. it can be called also: "Split Wire Loom" can be found online here Or here
Link1 was ; https://www.aliexpress.com/af/Split-Wire-Loom.html?SearchText=Split+Wire+Loom&d=y&blanktest=0&initiative_id=SB_20180712230700&origin=n&catId=0&isViewCP=y&jump=afs
Link 2 was; https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=Split+Wire+Loom&tag=tv-auto-20

A great job!
I'm just waiting for the guides, the parts are slowly printing and I'm getting ready for folding.
But I have a problem:
What cooling of print for this project will be the best? The best for two fans (40x40x10mm) - Hotend E3D V6 + Titan + bowden.

I've been trying to get this to work since April and still can't get it up and running, I know it's not the designers faults as theres so many other people who it works great for.

My current big issue is that the z axis binds terrible, I've managed to get it lined up and moving slowly until I introduce the z axis lead screws.

They seem like they're always bending the coupler forwards, I've got them lined up horizontally and I've bought brand new lead screws from a reputable source which are straight and not bent.

But because the z nut screws seem like they sit a mm too far forward the printer makes an extremely loud noise when the z axis moves.

I no longer have the ability to print new parts, I'm completely lost as to what to do now.

May you offer some advice, I'm feeling ready to throw hundred of pounds worth of printer into the bin.

I'll add as well, the lower down the X carriage is the more the t screws wave around at the top, they're probably spinning in. 30-40mm circle. I really can't figure this out and really need your help, I feel like a failure...

This is weird.. but don't worry my friend
Please send me private message with pictures of your build and i will try to help you.

Thank you very much, I have PM'd you with more information.


thanks for the big project! already made mine.. but...

is there any mount for E3D with precision Piezo?


does anyone know why there's a 0.1mm opening between the leadscrew nut holder and the 2020 extrusion ?


0.1mm~ for strain relief.
After tons of motion/strength simulations on fusion360 it was necessary in order to make it work right without issues on the long terms.

alright, thank you :)

For all of you out there who are building/have built an AM8-BLV:

I'm a big dummy.

WHERE can I find replacement parts for an MGN12 carriage?
Specifically, the ball bearing retainer wires?

You wouldn't believe how it got lost so I won't try to explain.
(THAT'S where the big dummy part fits in)

I don't really want to buy a whole new carriage if I can avoid it.

Thanks in advance.

unfortunately, I don't think its sold separately

So I'm not sure what to make of this... I had an idea... but now I'm having second thoughts... maybe even third thoughts...

I'll get back to you...

Where did you find the black linear rails? Also do they slide smoothly?

So, other than it being a pile of parts waiting to be assembled into a printer, what are these second and third thoughts?
Put it together, make it print! :-)

Or am I missing something here completely?
(That's been known to happen...)

Second thoughts would be to do an enclosed printer for ABS printing. I have enough material to build the frame that way, but I'm going to have to figure out a design for it. And my current Anet A8 is a bit out of sorts for the moment, so I'm stalled while i work on that.

Is there a reason why you wouldn't want to make the enclosure a separate structure that can simply set down over/around the printer?
That way it's not actually part of the printer design, but an accessory for it.
You could even incorporate a door if desired.
I guess it all depends on your current print space/shop area as to whether it would be feasible.

Just thinkin' out loud....as that is what I'm in the process of making for MY current work area.
I have a filament booth over each printer (doors to get plexi front panels, and they foam-seal when closed, with a rechargeable de-humidifier in each booth) ), shelving above the booths (in progress), and a 1" MDF table surface sitting on a 10-drawer base cabinet with 24in full extension soft-close drawers.

Once my AM8-BLV is done, it'll go right next to the Maker Select in it's own cubby.

Each shroud will be a 4 sided plexi box (open on the bottom and back) that slides right over the front of the printer and butts up against the booth support frame. Filament will lead out of the booth down through the shroud into the printer. (I'm still on DD, no Bowden yet) I'll put a door on it as well.

Maybe you'll find some inspiration from this, maybe not, but hopefully so. :-)

PS As I designed and built all this, I have the plans/cut lists/BOM available to anyone who would like them, just message me.

That is one serious setup you have there. I actually like the idea of a contained unit. I have the metal for it, and I might even have enough space to pull it off. Probably will be a week or 3 before I start working seriously on it. I have a couple of beach trips in a row that take priority!

Hi all folks!
I've just upgraded my stock anet a8 to AM8 with MGN...
I'm having some issues with ghosting on X and Y ...
with acceleration 2500, Jerk 20 and print speed 150.

All parts seems to be tighten and I can't realize any slak.

reduce de speed it's not my intention, because I've upgraded to AM8 MGN just to increase the print speed... so, can I do anything to improve?

I attached one picture of an printed piece with the setup above.

A few questions:
what hotend you are using (direct/bowden)?
what are your infill settings? inside walls before outerwalls?
have you cleaned your mgn carriage before installing? (completely disassemble, clean parts and steel balls with alcohol/wd40, oil it with white lithium grease or sewing machine oil and reassemble every thing)
the rails should be clean (side paths also) and oiled to.
don't use regular grease only white lithium grease (or sewing machine oil). at the beginning i had ghosting too. i used bowden and used a white lithium grease. changed every things..
p.s: if you have original Hiwin rails you dont need to clean it.

First of all, thanks by the response.
Some points:
Slicer Cura 3.4.1

  • Layer height: 0.24mm. Botom/top layers: 5 layers, Wall thickness: 0.4mm Inner before outer walls, wall line count: 4
  • ABS 220ºC (best temperature based on temp tower print test), bed 110ºC
  • Hotend direct E3d Aero Titan clone with heated block volcano clone
  • Infill 20% Grid
  • Only oil with sewing machine oil but without any cleaning.. (maybe that's a problem)

Hotend with aero is a bit havy for speed prints but i can asume you have used a pancake motor.
Also the Chinese rails or any rails that are not original Hiwin comes with a preserving grease (anti corrosion).
The problem with that is that this type of grease sticks to the steel balls and every internal component.
motion isn't smooth and and the caarriage tend to stuck while moving.
Try to clean it properl, you can find some youtube video demonstrating the cleaning process.

What a great project ! congratulation, it is simply awesome. I was going to start the same thing and found your project ! I am so happy I did not do it myself, it would never has been as cool as this project !

I already ordered a few parts but I can not find any mgn12. Do you have a suggestion for a model / supplier ?

Great job again !Thank you ver much for the great project !

Hi bud
Thank you very much , i appreciate that :)
You can find on amazon and aliexpress a good cheap rails.
The RDC store at AliExpress that i bought from started selling a nun standard rails
So i deleted my recommendation from the description. I ordered 4 rails from 4 different
Stores to test them. After testing them i will publish a new recommendation.

what do you mean by "non standard" rails? They're not suitable for your mod? RDC store has a lot of good reviews, I'd like to order the rails but your comment put me off. There's also "LUT Bearing Store" with cheap prices on Ali but I do not know if it is realiable or not.

I just bought 2 rails by LUT, they suck don't get them, they don't ride smooth even after cleaning, lubing removing or changing bearings.

After ordering from 5 different sellers i found a seller with a good rails.
i have posted the link at the thing page: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/b4ZT5JAu

yes I ordered before finding about your thingiverse. thanks but that link is so expensive for me, do you think i could just order RDC and remodel things around it? How different is it from spec?

Did you even look on Ebay? That's where I got mine...

Which famous printer has the same quality as this one after the mod? (I want to compare costs to see how much I can save building my own instead of buying an off the shelf one).

I think Ender 3 has something similar, and it´s cheap!

I don't think so, the structure of the Ender 3 is indeed strong, but the rollers aren't and can add errors

How much does this mod costs? (not including the printed parts, just the linear rails, frames and etc).

I want to calculate my final cost if I by an Anet A8 and mod it.

Could someone provide some average costs like: "extra cost if you alreday have an A8", "Extra cost if you are starting from scratch", "just the frames", "+ new electronics", "+ new nozzle" and etc.

I think this will make it a lot easier for us to measure the price/benefit of the mods.

i already own an A8 and im doing some rough costs. The frame,rails and hardware looks to be about $250. That's not including an upgrade on hot end.

Just wait until you add in all the nuts and bolts! I think I have over $50 in hardware alone and I'm a frugal shopper!

Do you think all these new frames and rails make it better than a U$200 creality ender 3?

interesting, I was imagining something around 500.

Are you including a new controller board? Or will you use RaspeberryPi for wifi?

Hi, I'm plannig to build youre design it is great.
But I want the possibilty to mount a 300x300 Heat Bed to it.
So my question is, which profiles have to be longer to mount a 300x300 Heat bed?
And which lenght must they have?
Best regards and thank you for youre help

I just ran across this. I'm going to try and mod it to fit the rails.


Modular Y Carriage V2
by sarf2k4

I think I may have asked this question before. Honestly, I don't know the answer yet. I can tell you the 300x300 bed I ordered actually measures 327x327. What ever calculations I made at first are a little off because of this. It also makes me wonder what the dimensions of the glass top I have still sealed in bubble wrap truly are. Originally I would have thought Add 80mm to the x and y planes.

Once I get my build done I will try to post it with a write up for the mods I made. I also went with the Ramps board since I'm going dual extruder. I have a feeling I'm going to have to design a new electronics enclosure. I went with a pair of mosfets that are a little larger than my A8 has. Plus I'll need to fit in a Raspberry Pi because OctoPi was one of the best upgrades I made to my first A8.

I'm stalled for a few days on the build as I have to build a new bench for the printer. The foot print is definitely going to be larger than the A8s. When I ordered my t-slots, I just broke down and got 10 pieces of 1 meter. It was a little more than twice what I need, but the cost break was worth it and gives me left overs for a future laser cutter. I finally decided to go that route as it was considerably cheaper than having custom lengths ordered. The stuff should be easy enough to cut with a hacksaw, but I have a band saw with a metal blade anyway.

As for the mounting of the bed, I still have to work that out. the H frame for the Anet is way to small for the 300x300 bed, so I'm guessing I am going to have to make a new oversized one. Right now that is my biggest concern as the holes to mount it to the tracks have to be 100% accurate to avoid binding.

I am currently printing my parts. Just wondering do I need to use supports. At least example orientation in the picture for X-tensioner requires supports.

Yes bud :)
some of the parts do need support. the X-tensioner must be printed with support

Ordered the last of my parts for this tonight. I'm both excited and nervous about this. I realized that once mine is built, the steppers and stop switches might just be my only Anet parts left.

I got my Ramps today and knowing the rest of the parts are probably still 3 weeks out from China, I am thinking about starting the modding of the Marlin files for the larger heatbed. I went 300x300 as I commented earlier.

I'm also thinking about only printing the most essential parts in advance So I can print the rest of the parts with the higher quality BLV.

Has anyone come up with a Chimera mount that incorporates a auto leveling sensor yet?

Hi guys. In the middle of finalising the printed parts for this. Does anyone have a plan for a mount for an E3D Titan Aero?


Hi Dashik, I acctualy mounted a E3d Aero Titan clone on my AM8 with MGN12 rails at this week, I choosed the X carriage modular project
Printed this parts:

Modular X-carriage for ANET A8 / AM8 / BLV

Soon I plan to make a model for Titan Aero

So, I have the 2040 rails from Ratrig AM8 kit. Y axis rails are 340 mm. Will this do, or do I need to replace them with the longer 364 mm as mention here? Meaning do I need to get 2 more, or replace the old and get 4?

Hello everyone. I'm a total noob when it comes to 3d printing and 3d printer in general. I bought the anet a8 to upgrade it to the Metal Frame by pheneeny from the begining. I bought everything except a couple parts just enough to keep me busy. I ran into the BLV printer mod and it's just what I wanted. I started buying the rest of the parts I need to continue on the BLV mod. I just need a couple more pieces and I'll have all the parts I need. My question is. I haven't started printing any of the parts from the pheneeny list and just started with the BLV only for now. Will this cause any problems? I will like to get a new hotend and extruder. I'm not to happy with the stock anet a8 one. I have been looking into the Titan aero but I haven't been able to find anything on a mount for the BLV. Will I be able to use the Titan or should I just get the one that everyone here is using? All help and suggestions are highly welcomed. Thanks in advance.

Hi. I now have all the frame parts etc and I'm prining off the parts.

My question is how are the two inner bed rails secured to the frame?



Actually I just rewatched the video and wortked it out :D

Hi to all from SLO. I am also finishing my BLV 3D project. Just have one question. Where could I find so sweet Green wire guard/tube on X axis? Thanks

HI :)
Its a "PVC Flexible Corrugated Cable Protection Pipe" or called also: "Split Wire Loom"
outer size: 13mm
inner size: 9mm
measure in inch: 1/2"
its supposed to be in any electric store..

Also, i will appreciate if you could please publish "post a make" photos :)

Looks awesome!
I'm prepping to build my own.
I have but one question/concern.
In using a single rail/single carriage for the X-axis, is there any "slop" axially around the rail with the extruder carriage attached?
I mean, it's now a single point/axis of load bearing/motion.
With smooth rods, there were 2 axes. Rails: we only gots 1.
Is it that much better?

One rail is much more rigid and strong then even 10 rods together.
it can take up to 20 times more load then smooth rods. its sustain loads from all directions and offer much more rigidity along with accuracy.

Thank You!
I am/was concerned that a single MGN12H carriage won't/wouldn't maintain axial stability along the rail with the weight of the extruder carriage on it, i.e., twisting of the carriage. That's what I was pondering on. Apparently that concern is not necessary?

Those look Sa-Weet!!
Can't wait until mine does the same thing.
Thanks So Much!

Which layer cooling nozzle works best with the E3D V6 and this BLV mod?

Also which carriage and carriage lock would I print for an E3D V6 with a remote driver and a LJC18A3-H-Z/BX Capacitive bed auto level sensor.

Hi Mr_Dabrudda, I acctualy mounted a E3d Aero Titan clone on my AM8 with MGN12 rails at this week, I choosed the X carriage modular project, only lacks a LJC sensor support, I just wraped mine LJC sensor at the backplate with zip ties...
Printed this parts:

Modular X-carriage for ANET A8 / AM8 / BLV

Okay, so this looks like a project for my old A8. I actually have a new a8 on the way to print the parts with, and just for general use. I probably could have saved myself $100 and just ordered new rods to replace my warped ones, but hey, now I'll have lots of spare parts... or the Anet parts needed for one of these.

So I guess my big question, and I saw one person asked in the comments, hads anyone put one of these together with a 300x300 hot bed yet? It seems like the time to start with the big bed upgrade would be from the beginning. I will probably start ordering the parts for this in the next 3 or 4 days. I was hoping someone had already worked out the sizes for the big beast...

Wow, this is not an inexpensive project! I have the nuts and screws , the new bed, the Chirera, another set of Mosfets, the RAMPS board and display, and 2 rolls of PETg ordered. I have to go out and work a little! Next round of orders will be the second extruder motor, PTFE tubes, glass plate, and Swiss clips to hold the new glass plate in place. After that I'll have one more round of orders for the Aluminum Profile pieces, the MNG12H rails, the taller LEAD rods and extra carriages, and what ever incidentals I may have forgotten!

Yep, definitely need to go out and get money!

Super excited about this printer. I ordered the PETG in semi clear and plan to embed a few extra LEDs throughout the printer just for the aesthetic alone. I basically added 80mm to the x and y related extrusions to make up for the larger bed. I imagine resizing everything in Marlin will be a blast, heheha. I guess it will be about a month before I post my pictures.

Nice design !

Hi @Blv ,

Can you post your marlin values :

DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 15, 25}
DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000, 100,5000}
DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 500 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves
DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 1000 // E acceleration for retracts
DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 500 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves

and your Simplify3D values for speed

Comments deleted.

New version of Simplify3D profile, for test

Is this designed for the v channel extrusion? I just printed the z motor mounts and they do not fit the standard non v extrusion I used.

Otherwise coming together well.



Hi, it is suitable for T-slot extrusion only. V-slot is hard to use with an mgn rails since the gap is to wide for the rails.


First of all, cred to your design! Loving it!!
I’m about to embarge on the project of converting my A8 to your design with MGN12 rails. But I have a question I hope you can clearify a bit for me.

I can see that a lot of people are using the ratrig extrusions on their am8, and converting to rails. At the same time you comment above that rails only work with T-slot extrusions and not V-slot due to wider track. Does this mean that the v-slot doesn’t work att all or is it just harder to get it right with a nice tight, snug and straight fit?

Thanks again for your great work!


Hi there,

I've bought the aluminum sections from Ratrig to build this and i'm about to order the MGN12 rails.

My question is this, I can see the sizes for the carridges for the hot plate and vertical axis are 400mm according to the exploded view diagram. What size for the x Axis rail though? I bought a peice of 2020 x 420mm for it but can I use a 400mm section of MGN12 for the x axis carridage that the extruder is mounted too? looking at the parts it looks like they sit atop the rail at either end if that makes sense?

You suggest MGN12 360mmm but I was wondering if I just get a standard length of 400mm if it will fit without cutting it.



It will fit but you will have to add length to the x extrusion in order to have enough place for the endstop switch.

Comments deleted.

Thanks! When I have my printer up and running (probably in a few weeks time), I will try it and give some feedback!

I want to attach an EZABL to the MK3 carriage, I've added the 18mm ring to the hugger, attaching it to the cable ring.

Do you think it will work? I'll add it as a remix if it does. I'm very far from getting to the point where I can print it and set it up so it'll be a while.

It looks great! just make sure the external mount will not touch the extrusion.
Great job ! :)

Comments deleted.

Amazing project, I'm printing all the PLA parts before starting using PETG...
But before switching, I've got few questions for you :)
Are the JIG necessary ? (PLA ? infll : 40% or more ?)
Are the feet in PLA ? (infill : 40 or more ?)
Is the X motor holder in PLA or PETG ?
Thx a lot

Jig: must be 40% infill or more and it can be printed with PLA (accuracy is important sop flexible jigs can be a nightmare when installing an mgn rails).
Feets: must be made with 40% infill or more (i used 70%) since its holding all the printer weight (can be printed with PLA).
X-motor: must be made with PETG since PLA tend to bent in a hot temperature and as you know the x-motor with long printing can be very hot.

Awesome design friend!
Im looking to do this, but I have this dual printer head already on, will the carrige you have work for this?
Link to the dual head I have - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-3D-Printer-Dual-Extruder-Upgrade-Kit-for-Zonestar-P802N-P802M-P802Q-P802QS-Two-Color/32718458942.html

You can use the chimera hotend (dual hot end and it has many good clones on aliexpress).
our appreciated friend: mr_emme, has made a remix for the chimera:

Chimera Compatible - support for MGN rail
by mr_emme

Thinking about going with a Chimera. I guess my question is would you go with 2 in and 1 out or 2 in and 2 out. I can see how the latter would keep colors from mixing and have a cleaner definition at color change. I'm guessing that would also involve a little coding trickery!

You have many fans but the mainboard only has room for 2 (the blower and cooler on the hotend) - how did you connect them all?

12V fans which doesnt have to be controlled (PWM or just on/off) can be simply connected directly to PSU 12V output.

Nozzle for MK3 redesigned, better orientation of the airflow for much less cool head print

Nozzle for MK3 redesigned

Hello! I would like to start this build, I just need some guidance on where best to start since I dont have an Anet a8 yet. Should I buy an A8? or is there better electronics that I can use? is there a list of recommended electronics?


No need to buy an Anet A8.
Just get the electronics: 3d printer board + screen, motors, endstops, heated bed, hotend, wires, fans, TR8 threaded rods, extruder parts..

What size lead screws did you use for the z axis. Did you use 8mm ones? Thanks

Hi :)

Yes i have used a 400mm T8 stainless steel threaded rods (matching the Anet A8 threaded rods):
Rod diameter: 8mm
Screw pitch: 2mm
Lead: 8mm

How much of a difference in quality did this upgrade prove?

How much? well..
i forgot how z-wobble and z-banding looks like.i cant any longer help or advise with the community about those problems :(
the printing speed is much faster - high acc and speed without losing quality. usually i print at 100-80ms looks like printed at 40ms.
printed shapes are perfectly aligned, the circles are round and the square straight (high accuracy). Also, Its much much silent then
regular linear bearings and much more stiffer and rigid.
I actually hate this upgrade, because it made me feel miserable since i have nothing left to upgrade :(
Therefore i have started planning a new 3d printer with mgn rails and different kinematics..

did you create profiles for Simplify 3D? or for Cura ?

I ma using Simplify3D

Could you share this profile with us?
Please :)

Could you share this profile with us? I'm almost finished with my build, just waiting for the last parts to arrive from China :)

What carriage setup is the best? Just the basic e3d v6 clone mount with no sensors and fang duct?

I am using the basic one with the BL touch - works as a charm

First test, without fixing the wiring ...

it works...

BLV mgn12 3D Printer mod for Anet A8 / AM8 / Prusa I3 clone

Cool !!!! :) :) :)

Comments deleted.

Hello guys,
Someone can provide the Marlin configuration file for bltouch working with this configuration? I cannot found the right way to make it working...

hi, great design. i love the fan cover.
what is best position to print the lcd cover ? is there a way to hide the mounting screws in the back ?

Where is the file for the thing that you printed for the cable guides the neon twist around the cable lines from the extruder and a hotbed? I want the same style!!!

Its not a printed file, its actually a pvc pipe for electric wire.
Down the comments you will see, we have talk about it.

I’ve found a way to attatch a 200 x 300 mm heat bed to this as well!

how did you do that ?

Nice !
i would appreciate if you could please take some pictures :)

Are their versions of pieces like endstops that are compatible with ramps? If not, do you plan on making them?

You can find what you are looking for here:

Ramps Endstops
Comments deleted.

Hello. Very nice project, I'm doing it right now but I'm stopped trying to understand how the Y endstop works. If I place on the back profile, the micro didn't reach the plate. May you give a pict of your setup?


Of course, tomorrow i will take some pictures for you :)

I'm stuck on Y endstop. May you send me your picture or someone else may help me? Pleaseeee

I am truly sorry, apparently i have sent someone else the pics in private message.
Here are the pics (its was taken long time ago on early build stage)
The y Endstop mount has 4 holes:
2 big 5mm holes for the m5 screw - securing it to the extrusion.
2 small holes for the m2.5 screw - securing the endstop switch into it place.

Many thanks! I'll wait for your picture.


This is such a beautiful design! I’ve always loved mgn12 rails as they’re more silent and precise. Thank you!

Made. And made. Thank you BLV!

Thank you Krame !!!
You have made a really good job with your "HULK" printer (since its green :) )
I really appreciate that you have shared the photos of your beauty
Thank you :)

Hi, what nema engine model do you recommend to build this printer.
I would like to keep my anet a8 in working order.

Hi :)

If you would like to keep the Anet A8 and build another printer, then
i highly recommend SingaSong Nema 17 17HS4401 stepper motor. Its much better then the
original Anet A8 motors and much more cooler when using a tmc2130/tmc2208 stepper drivers.
5pcs can cost you 38$ (Cheap and reliable) Search at Aliexpress for item: 32376023464

Enjoy :)

Thank you.
It is ordered,..

however, I saw that the axis of these engines was 5mm.
On the nomenclature you indicate pulleys with a 3mm axis
2 x GT2 16T idler (3mm bore)
you need pulleys with a 5mm axis?


The 5mm pulleys are for the motors shafts
And the 3mm are for the idler, such as the one that goes into the tensioner

The 5mm Pulleys are only for the stepper motor shaft and the 3mm are idler pulleys.

Yes that's right.
Sorry for the mistake.

glad to help bud :)

My stock Anet A8 got knocked off my table by my kids and a few frame parts broke/cracked. Was looking to replace it with this setup. Would anyone be willing to help me out with printing the parts to perform this upgrade? Im kinda angry this happened but life happens i guess. I will compensate for material used. Message me if you can help me out.


Yes, I can help if you still need it.

that would be great

Hi ! would like to build one of this , and can you help me with the length for the extrusion that I need to build ? what in my mine is prefer to print 300x300 and high is 500 and above , can you give me the build length for it , I mean the length of the extrusion , mgn12 rail and the threat rod and etc ...
Thank you :)

Jimngu, did you ever come up with the sizes you need? My A8 is have issues binding on the X. Rather than dropping more money into new rods I actually just ordered a new A8 and started looking at this design as something to do with my old printer. Naturally I thought bigger is batter and found a 300x300 heatbed available.

So anyway I have decided to go large and am getting ready to start ordering parts! Worst case scenario, I might just break out the calculator and figure out the sizes that way, but I was hoping someone else went before me!

I have a problem of offset printing, how to center my nozzle for printing ??
I use marlin

Hi :)
It's very easy to fix.
There are many Youtube guiding video tutorials about centering the bed. Just follow one of the video guides.
Please notice that inside the zip folder you will find file named: dimensions.pdf
This file include all the needed numbers/dimensions in order to center your bed.

ok i m on the start of printing the parts needed apart from the am8 which i allready have.....and i have this question about
what filament to use..iguess most of the parts will be pla and some parts will be abs or other......the thing is that i have a lot of pla and i want
to use it.....which parts are the critical to print with abs ???????because i do have to buy some.....all of them ??? thanks and great job again

Hi my friend :)
Inside the zip file you will find BLV_mgn12_mod.pdf file, there you will find next to most of the parts the recommended material.
My personal recommendation is to use PETG/ABS with most of the parts that there is a load on them or next to hot area such as motors and bed. (bed adapters, tensioners, mounts and so on.. )

Hi, first of all, absolutely amazing project, thank You ! I'm very tempted to do the upgrade ! But on that particular question, I find the pdf not usefull (or the pdf I get is not what was intended) : there is only one page, one image, with "sometimes" material indicated (but we have to search a lot to find what to print with what). Could it be possible to have a text table, listing materials recommanded for each part please ?

ok thanks i will print in abs,i have not tried petg before and i m not use ti it.....i dont know if its easier or not

Is there a cable chain available for this awsome thing? I couldn't find one in the files. I don't want have my cables hanging over the printer.

Hi, I found a problem with your Fan Duck.
When the cooling starts, the temperature drops to 180 ° and does not rise because the inclination of the fan duck is towards the sensor.
I made several changes, then I found another solution. I have also raised the fan plug to avoid out of air.

.It seems to work well

Hi my friend :)
Its seems that we are having here a misunderstanding..
I think that you are using the wrong fan duct. Its definitely doesn't look like Prusa mk3 circular which i designed the carriage to suite for.
as i wrote at the description: "New MK3 carriage made for Prusa original MK3 nuzzle fan ..."
Please enter this link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2712591 and download the correct fan duct (i've attached an image).
personally i think that prusa fan duct is the best..
Please notice that you will have to do an Auto PID while your fan is ON in order to get the accurate temperature at PID process.

Prusa i3 MK3
by Kissman

Hi, I did a remix of the MK3 pieces. I made a 40 ° bend to put a 40mm fan

Why do you have the extra blue "extension" on your radial fan? Does it reduce noise?

great solution for better cooling!

I have everything currently ordered to build this, but I want to go with a direct drive titan with an E3D V6 hot end, and bltouch. Is this a possibility, currently, or will I have to modify things myself? I was thinking about trying to do dual titan/E3Dv6's, but that would probably be too much to hope for here. :D.

Hi Techrev
In order to use titan you will have to modify it.
but in case you will want to use chimera (2 hotend) there is already a remix for it :)

Chimera Clone Mount

Thanks :D. I don't know that will work for me as I already have 2 titan extruders and 2 e3d v6 hot ends that I want to use. I will try remixing this, maybe, to work with the carriage and see if it's ok https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2240611 Otherwise I guess it will probably be trying out bowden. Bowden seems to be good, but I've heard it doesn't work well with some materials.

Dual E3D Titan Aero

Hello and sorry. I'm starting with the testing of mine (iron version).
Could you make the MK £ attack for the Chimera in the future? Thank you.

Hi bud :)
There are remixes for the chimera carriage.

the MK3_V6_hugger.stl does not slice correctly in S3D

Which version you are using?
Try slice it from the other side

Discovered same issue - printing it from the the other side works

Very Impressive!

I am wondering about the synchronization between the Z axis motors, does the extrusion and linear rails essentially prevent any synch issues?

The Z axis motors connected as parallel
there is no notice desynchronization between them, unless you put some force or manual changed the z axis position with tour hand.
The anet A8 original board also driving both z motos as parallel..

Is there a list which parts need support and which not?

There is a documentation inside the zip file.
For the carriages i will make one today

For option 2 with the extended z axis. You said 1 x Mgn12 360mm or 350mm rail. Which one should I get? What changes?

For the extended z axis its 400mm liner rail

Hey again Blv

Printing all pieces out atm, looks damn good!
Can't wait to assemble it all.

I'm a little confused by the whole extruder setup, and can't really find anything that works the way I want it too..
I want to use my stock extruder with a E3D V6 hotend as a direct drive.

From the groups on facebook I have talked with plenty of people who would love an option like that.. :)
Anything you would look into?

WOW! I am definitely trying this!!!! What a fantastic write-up! I suggest using CRC Brake-Clean for the removal of all the assembly stuff, I use brake-cleaner on like everything metal haha, nasty smelling and is strong and expensive sometimes but works SO WELL!!! It also pretty much evaporates off and leaves no real residue since it is made for automotive brakes that REALLY cannot afford to have a residue left on the friction surface. Worth every dollar in my book. I am going to see how this works:) Thank you.

Thank you bud :)
I hope it will be great, after you will finish I would love to see the results :-)

Where did you get the green wire sheathing?

Comments deleted.

You can find the full answer in the comments below :)

I read the comments below and searched for the suggested product. I searched high and low and cannot find anything that even slightly resembles what you have. My question was more of is there a specific link to follow rather than a name to search?

Silly question.

How many jigs are needed per rail? Do they stay on after assembly? So do I need 2 for the Y/Z axis or 4?

Hi :)
You need only 2 from each jig type.
Please remove the jig after assembly..

Do you have a link to the E3D V6 hotend you used? I see a lot of different options out there and I want to make sure I purchase one that fits properly.

Hi allen, i have used a clone one.
Its called V6 hotend (long version) 12v.
Link for such like product:

Also, the x carriage options are kind of confusing to me.. would be nice to see some details around what all I print to keep the original Anet A8 hotend/extruder vs what I would print if I upgraded to e3d v6/bowden.

To me it looks like there is the MK3 which works with the e3d, but what is the cube? Also I see the Anet a8 beta extruder adapter, but does it use the e3d x-carriage?

The MK3 is perefect for v6 bowden !
Personally i am using it and its the best.
Very very very reliable !


The MK3 and the Cube are both for the E3D. In theory, any of the knock offs will have the same dimensions. I have two genuine e3d's and I've had to teak the step file for tolerances.

The Anet A8 Beta extruder adapter is essentially a part for you to bolt the black U shaped plate that normally holds the extruder and nozzle of the A8 onto.

Hope this helps

Was searching to see if this could be used w/ the stock A8 extruder, thanks for this! I'm already building an AM8, but like the idea of the bearing rails, so I think I'm going to go this route.

I already have all of the the AM8 components printed out, will the Z axis motor mounts and the Z top holders for the AM8 work with this, or will I need to print the BLV mod mounts & rod holders?

Thank you friend :)

Hello, I am planning to building this and I have one small question. You say that we are going to need 7 x Mgn12H Carriage (4 for Y-axis, 1 for X-axis, 2 for Z axis). I am planning to do Option No. 2, and the instructions mention 4 x Mgn12 400mm rail and 1 x Mgn12 360mm or 350mm rail. That's total of 5, I am going to need 2 more? And what size?

I've built 3 of BLV like models (a lot of my own mods mostly to fit better 2020 I have). Now building one more.

  1. In first version only 300mm rails used for Y and Z, 400mm for X (220x320 table). Only one carriage on both Y rails and rails sit with some slide back and forth, so that there is enough length to full usage of 220 length of the table. It works! Only 4 of 300mm and one 400mm are enough for 220x320 table.
  2. Other models I built are for standard 220x220 table and I used 350mm rails for all axis and also only one carriage for each of Y rails. It also working well. Carriages are placed diagonally - one in rigth front and one in left back position.

For your question: 7 is the number of carriages and 5 is the number of rails, there are 2 carriages on each Y rail in original BLV model. I use only one carriage on Y rails.

Vapet, by my mistake I ordered 1 carriage per rail, so I need to use one carriage in each Y rail (at the middle of build plate), but I had some troubles to make carriage hit the Y endstop (I need to do an workaround to work it, but it's not the best solution), How you managed to make Y endstop work?

I've put one carriage in position Front Right and one in Back Left, so it is not in the middle but on diagonal, making table more stable (and also make shorter rails useable). Then I use additional part and put it in position Back Right, so that it pushes the Y endstop. This part is а simple plastic bar wich can be slided to push endstop exactly at needed position of the table.

Vapet.. I couldn't have said it better :)
Thank you

Hello I have reconstructed your printer, but I have 2 errors that I do not get in the handle, maybe you know that remedy.

1) I have strong Z-wobble, is there a fix?

2) And I have waves in the Y range, but unfortunately, I do not know where they come from, have already tried a lot but they do not get away.
(Motor swapped, drivers swapped, belts more and less tense, sled swap )

Hi :)
I don't think that Z-wobble is possible to have with mgn rails.
since x-axis and y-axis carriages are well constrained to the axis without any bending/lose.
The issue you are dealing with can be related to non consistent feeding rate / mechanical problem / setting issue.

Things you should check:

  • check that the mgn carriage glides smoothly without jams (oil the rails with lithium grease/ sewing machine oil)
  • check the Coupler and make sure they are fixed and not loose. personally i am using Aluminum non spring coupler 5X8.
  • check that all X-axis can be lifted easily and well leveled right/left equally.
  • do an Auto PID
  • Calibrate your E-steps (Very very very important !) especially if you are using bowden or changed your setup.
  • print a temperature tower to understand what is the best temp to work with your material
  • while printing check if the temp is stable or up and down.. this can cause a lot of troubles like this.
  • many many times banding effects caused by too strong fan. Try yo decrese you fan and see what happens. (Most of cases solving the banding effect)
  • Check your feedrate and lower your jerk and acc.
  • Check your slicer setting and make sure it suites your setup.
  • if you are using bowden, make sure that there is no gap betwween the v6 buttom and your teflon tube.

Send me a PM and i will glad to help you my friend :)

z wobble are definitely possible because the game between mother and threaded lockers, as well as moment loads of Mgn can not be recorded (according to technical data) and thus transmits to the X axis. Board is RAMPS 1.4 driver already tried several A4988 DVR8815 TMC2130) Temperature can not be 100% the waves are only in the Y axis not in the X also I print the same filament as before the conversion (PLA with 190 degrees). Jerk and Acceleration I've already tried all sorts of combinations of 1-20 in jerk range and acceleration of the 100-1000. many thanks for your help maybe you have other options what it could be. I use E3D V6. e Steps are calibrated correctly

I'm still building my version of this mod, but on my original anet a8 I had this exact same problem. it was a loose set screw on the Y motor pulley! I had to replace the set screw and pulley because they wouldn't stay tight.

Wait, your are not supposed to have too much play with the threaded rods and the T8-constrainer.
Also your not supposed to have any free play with the mgn carriage with a 3d printer loads.
Edit: saw your pm :) :) :)

An example how important to do an Auto PID and set the correct fan speed.
Image attached (one of the community member)

Comments deleted.

I’m seriously considering this upgrade. More silent, faster prints without reopardizing prints, practically completely eliminates z banding. Is there even a downside?!

Until now i am trying to find a downside..
Its only frustrating to see it running so well without the constant need to upgrade it :)

Comments deleted.

Hi BLV, I'm recreating the assembly of this printer in Inventor to make sure I will have all the necessary (fastening) parts when I make this printer. I noticed two things.

  • The first: some printed components have notches to align them with the aluminium extrusions. However, these notches will prevent the T-nuts to become perfectly flush with the inside of the aluminium profiles. The T-nuts have notches themselves and will compete with the same real-estate. I fixed this problem in these parts by removing a small piece of the notches in the printed parts (4mm in both directions measured from the center of the holes).
    I designed them for these nuts: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/50pcs-lot-M3-T-Nut-20-M3-Hammer-Head-Block-Nuts-for-2020-Serie-Aluminum-Profile/32814359094.html

  • The second: I noticed that the holes of the Z-motor mounts and the Z-holder don't perfectly line up; only by fraction: 0.1mm (see added image). It appears that the distance of the Z-holder hole to the side of the 2020 profile is 7.9mm. If it were 8.0mm it would perfectly line up.
    Was there a specific reason for this? Or just a small mistake?

And some feedback for people (planning on) using alu extrusions from DOLD-mechatronik: you will need to use M6 screws to connect parts to the end holes of the profiles, instead of M5. This wil mean that some parts will have to be slightly redesigned, like for example a countersunk hole in the X-motor mount. A normal M6 screw would collide with the X-axis motor, so a countersunk bolt is needed.

Hi Martin :)

  1. The notches are there because there are a few types of aluminium profile, most of them do need the notches. You can definitely take them out with CAD or physically remove it, but most of the extrusions will need those notches.
  2. You are right, there is a very micro safety distance between the Z-holder mount and the extrusion, But i took that into account when i designed the other parts and its should be 100% lined up with the Z motor, other parts and the extrusions. Also please notice that there are more safety gaps with many parts. This method is reliably calculated in order to release material stress pressure. (After many many hours of strength simulations on Fusion360).
  3. The Hole for the button screw inside the X-axis motor mount is missing because the motor is far enough from the wall and the screw head not supposed to touch it. i choose not to make a hole in order to prevent weaken the X-motor mount structure. Also, keep in mind that the X-motor tend to work a lot and get hot, therefore i prefer to keep it away from the mount.
  4. Using other materials with different dimensions will need size adjustments and maybe even re-designing.

First of all, nice Job! Thanks
Could I use the original Linear rods on you're mod? Or they are they to short?
My expectation is to upgrade later to mgn12, but I have to split the costs.

Thank you :)
If you are talking about the threaded rods- so yes. You can use the original threaded rods.
If you meant to do only one axis - it is possible. Just use the original AM8 plans/parts for the axis you plan to keep with smooth rods.

Impressive job !! thxs

Thank you Simon :-)
Hope it will be helpful for you.

Hi! Nice design I have 3030 extrusion is it possible to assemble these parts on 3030? If possible reply.

Hi amjad :)
I'm afraid it will not suit for 3030 extrusion.
However i published the source STEP file and you can adjust it to 3030 with basic CAD knowledge.
I am Strongly recommend to use Fusion360 software.

hi, I wonder if you can make a tutorial to instal that full graphics lcd, I have the original A8 board and I can´t use my 12864 screen, please help

Do you have the discount reprap full graphic lcd?
It should be written on the lcd pcb.

Yes, that one

LCD 12864 RepRap Discount Anet A8 Adapter
by OderWat

I just want to say thank you for this awesome design!
After 3 months of ordering parts and putting them together I'm finally done assembling!
It's printing amazing!!! :)

I really appreciate that.. and i mean that.
So glad to see that all of the hours spent on this project helped this awesome community members.
My friend, i will appreciate if you could please upload some photos of it under "i made one" section :-)

I will when all parts arrived and the printer looks awesome :)

Thank you my friend :)

Just a heads up for people wanting to buy the alu-profiles from dold-mechatronik.de:
The M5x10 screws are too long and won't fit in their profiles when fastening their corner brackets. Use M5x8 instead!

Or you can add a Shim

hi, and realy great job!
i'm assembling this printer atm. and i ran into a problem with the e3d bltouch carriage.
i can't realy figure out how to attach the screws holding the belt on the carriage? i see 2 small holes (None of the 4 mgn holes), but no thread that the screws can screw in to? how do you tighten the belt/screws to the carriage?

ty very much! appreciate the work you did here!

I added these two notches for countersunk m3 nuts for now. seems to work :)

Hi, and Thank you :-)
The 2 holes made for 2 screws for the belts (check the video and schematics), just don't forget to add the top locker belt holder.
The reason i didn't added a place for 2 nuts is because the notches decreased the strength of the X carriage (fusion360 force simulation it failed). The top locker belt holder that keeps the screws together on top of the belt increasing the screws strength by 250% :)

Is it a problem to put on,T10x2 Threaded Rod Trapezoidal ACME Lead Screw whit Brass Nut,
because of the strength

I don't think it will fit, it was made for the most common Threaded Rod Trapezoidal. However you do have the STEP file
and you can make your on adjustments to the file :)

Is there a reason for the MGN12H carriages? Like height clearance or?

Because I have a mounting plate that fits the MGN12H carriages perfectly :)

I used mgn12H It because it is more capable of high load and wight.

Ahh I meant the adapters on top of the carriages :)

You can use your own adapters without any problem :-)

But do I need the adapters if I can mount the carriage plate directly on top of the MGN12H?

Thank you really much. Do you have possible measurements of the bed?

HI :)
The Anet Bed is 220mm X 220mm and a few comments below i added a pdf with the bed measurements.
Search for pdf file at the comments.

Hey Guys,
Blv that's truely awesome! Do you have the software parameters for me? So the offset for the bed and so on (Extruder offset..)

I made for you a PDF with all Offset measurements.
The bed depends with your build.

Does this work with the CR-10

Basically you can add it to your CR-10. Just make sure to make size adjustments.

Concerning Creality CR-10, after analysing each part of your mgn12 mod, the 2 big modifications would be made for the left and right Z mount motor.
No support 2040 profile on lateral side of motor existed on CR-10.
New support 2040 for cr-10 would be fixed underneath.the nema motor. Correct ?

May someone add or adapt these Z mounts for CR-10 ? i have no 3d skill design to make this modification, Sorry.


In my case i have a ratrig AM8 Kit (black)

so i think i need:

2 x 2040 extrusion 340mm (y-axis)
2 x Mgn12 380mm rail (y-axis) so i have to buy the 400mm ?
1 x 2020 extrusion 420mm for (x-axis)
1 x Mgn12 350mm rail (x-axis) dunno how long because its confusing me. List says 350mm but in the pdf it says 360mm
2 x Mgn12 350mm rail (z-axis)
7 x Mgn12H Carriage

Is this correct ?

I have the same kit, Did you ever figure how what you needed?

Hey BLV,

Did you Y carriage's get rougher gliding when the carriage plate was tightened? I can't seem to tighten the M4 screws without impacting smoothness of the glide.

Lossen the screws and all glide really smooth. Anyways wondering if you ran into this issue.

Hi marceba
I have mentioned it before, you can tight screw the front carriages but the rear carriages doesn't have to be tighten.

Hiya BLV.
Thank you for the awesome upgrade.
I am wishing to do this but having some problems with the BOM list.
Some things I can not get my head around as to what they are. My Google fu is a bit pants on some items (like the M5X10 Button Head Socket Cap Screw "Google and amazon show different types"). But (I know I am a pain) would it be possible to ether get a link to each item or a picture as to what the item/s are. In the description.
Again thank you.

Hey these are the M5x10 Screws you have to use:
Ask again if you need more informations about other thigns from the BOM

Awesome thank you.
I was not sure if it was them or these :- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOCKET-CAP-SCREWS-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-ALLEN-KEY-BOLTS-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-/150846401601
And yeah i will ask again (which is most likely haha) if i come to a problem i can not google my way out off. :)

Once again, great job and thank you for your support during this journey of creating a new printer.
I'd like to modify this printer a bit :)
My intention is to cover the aluminum extruder (the base) by an aluminum sheet (1mm thick) to give it a nice finish.
The sheet will be fixed between the extrusion and the mgn rails and fixed also all around with screws.
The picture attached will explain better than my speech (and poor english).
To do this, I need to change the Y motor orientation from horizontal to vertical.
I took the X motor holder as it fit pretty well and modified it (I removed the tail) so I can put against the aluminum.
However, my skills in modifying object are very limited and I can't create the holes for the screws ( I spent hours without success).
I use Freecad, maybe it's not the right software to do this.
Do you mind to help me by making these holes?
The top of the holder must be at the same level than the extrusion.

Thank you for your help.

Hi Lanktus
Of course, I would be very happy to help you.
Please export your model to STEP file, upload it and i will add the holes you need :-)

I don't have any STEP file.
I just took your STL file X_motor_holder and I tried to modify it (removing the tail to have a flat back and trying to adding holes).

Looks like I'm doing it the wrong way.

Yes, The most optimal way is to open the STEP file that you can find in this project with Fusion3D app (very simply and user friendly CAD app).
Then you will have the most accurate file to work with and with simple tools you will be able to do whatever you want.
I can add those holes for you but i don't know how much space you need between the motor shaft end and the bed. Also please notice the the 2040 extrusion height is 40mm which means you have only 40mm for the motor and its not enough height, unless you are using and extended version?

Thank you for the advice, I'm going to dwl Fusion3D right now.
I don't want to change the size of the holder, the motor's base is below the chassis as I am using feet.
The top of the motor holder is at the same level than the extrusion.

First of all - nice work. I've upgraded to a 320 X 220 mm bed on my AM8 and am having lots of issues with the guide rails and this should be the solution. So thanks for all the fantastic work and videos.

My question is - the stock ANET A8 blower fan is a 5015 not a 5010 (an odd size). Can you confirm what fan you designed around - just want to make sure as I will buy a 5010 if needed, but none that I've seen look like what you have.

Thanks Craig for bringing this to my attention !
The fan i used is the original Anet a8 5015 fan.
added a notice at the installation text
I appreciate your comment :-)

You should design a direct feed bowden extruder (with bl touch) to fit onto this rail upgrade. Im hesitant to attempt this upgrade because the bowden tubing makes it extremely difficult if not impossible to print in flexible plastics...

Hi, i am working on it :)
I have designed a prototype and i am wating for the Titan extruder to arrive.
After i will make sure it works well, it will be released :)

Comments deleted.

Hi .Im ned bigger printing place like 400x400 .What im must change on this project ?

I have answered it before in the comments below.

Looked around but couldn't find any information regarding the Y carriage adapters you made.

Think about ordering a new Y carriage:

Will those hole dimensions work out of the box for these adapters? :)

Are you talking about the dimensions of the Anet Y carriage?
If so i can upload a simple sketch of the adapters proportions

Yea, just wanted to know if the holes in the carriage would match with your adapters for the MGN12H.

Ok :)
I made a sketch with the requested dimensions (attached)
The 20mmX20mm is for the mgn12 carriage and the second set of holes is for the Y-carriage

Hy there...cool design, in fact I've decided to build this one, in all black 2040...I will build the 500 mm Z version and I need to ask you the changes that I have to do in skynet...I need some numbers I think. ..can you help me?...

Thanks a lot for your mod...

You will have to increase the Z height on marlin

You did an amazing job !
I'm currently building one and I have a questions :

  • Could please tell why the hole over the X motor cover is for?

Do you mind to design a MK3_V6_hugger for a 40mm fan (30mm fan are too noisy)? I tried by myself and I definitely have no skill in this...
Thank you and once again, GREAT JOB !!!