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Mak-a-face

i3 Rework E3D Extruder

by Mak-a-face Feb 26, 2014
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Hi,
Your extruder design is great, if a little bit confusing at first. My probe doesn't have long enough screws - they don't reach far enough to get the inductive sensor to trigger. Is there another design for 18mm sensor that comes/mounts farther down?

Sorry I don't think so.

Hi,
I would assume that you use a limit switch. I'm putting this on my Alunar M505 (Anet A8), and the limit switch doesn't go down far enough. And with the two fans I can't seem to find a mounting point. Do you think it would be possible to mount the inductive sensor to the fan grill on the 40mm fan?

It may not be precise enough and could cause you problems when homing your z-axis.
This design is about 3 years old now, so I would recommend that you look at other extruders or you could check out some of my newer designs that I have. Also this extruder was design as a variant to the i3 Rework version and would require you to use the i3 Rework X-Carriage to mount the extruder.

As it happens, the A8 is based around the rework, so the rods are the right distance apart. I've printed it and it was working OK, but there wasn't a spot to mount my inductive sensor to. That's OK - I'll find another design.

Is there a 18mm probe sensor mount for this extruder?

I spent more than one hour looking for one but can't find one 18mm that looks like will work with this struder.

If you click on Remixes you'll see 18mm probe mounts designed by other makers.
I also have a newer version of this extruder just for the v6.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:725082/#remixes

It also has Remixes for probe.

E3D v6 Compact Extruder for i3 Rework

I gotta say that is one helluva lotta fans. OMG, lol.

Hello.

I'm about to build an i3 Rework and I was interested in mounting an e3d instead of a JHead, but I'm having a hard time understanding which parts I should print and which ones I should leave out from the original Rework here on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616

Could you please help?

Thanks in advance.

Prusa i3 Rework

The best thing to do is go thru the assembly instructions at.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Introduction
then check out the Bill of materials to see all the parts you'll need to print. This design uses the same hardware as the original version. I also have another E3D extruder that might work better for you.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:725082

Take a look at the remixes of the i3 rework and you'll see other design that you can use to customize your printer.

Enjoy

E3D v6 Compact Extruder for i3 Rework
Comments deleted.

Has anyone found a way to mount an induction sensor and blower fan with duct in a neat, compact way to this extruder? If so, let me know :)
My induction sensor is only 60mm long and I haven't found a nice mount that gets it low enough yet :(

I tryed to use this with my E3D V6 but it didn't fit...
i3R_E3D_v6_Extruder_Modified_with_Support_01.STL

So is it too tight or loose?

Hi again, is the ZIP fille complete? Because there is not any gear, and there are like 3 time the same object
Which one chose and where are the gear?

No, I didn't include them but I did leave a link to them in the details as other parts I used. If you don't like those gears, you can get the Greg's Wade Extruder ones. They work very well too.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379

First five files are for the old E3D v5 version and last 4 are for the v6.
Hope that helps.

Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears

Hi,
I can't fond the assembly step. Can you give me the link please. And does it have to be print in PLA or ABS if I print in PLA?

If you look just below the pictures of the extruder, you'll see "Thing Info, Instructions, Thing Files, and so on.
Click on Instructions and you'll see the Link for assembly of the extruder.

As for ABS or PLA, it doesn't really matter. Use what you have. :)

Hi

Have you also a the I3R_E3D_Shroud_01.stl for V6 version and with 40mm fan?

Thanks,

Jan

Hey, I see that you found it.

Do you have a version with a hole of 4mm to mount the tube teflon for 1.75mm filament direct to E3D and Hobbed bolt?
And a space for the piece black of E3D to clamp the PTFE.

I think this is important to mount for PTFE do not move insite the E3D. In your models, they dont have the hole for this.
The filament is more eficient and more stable with PTFE tube directly to the hobbed bolt.

http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/Embedded-Bowden-Couplings-For-Metal-1.75mm-Filament

No I don't have a 4mm hole, just the 3mm and 1.75. What you need to do is leave the bowden coupling collets out, it won't fit then you'll need to cut a piece of PTFE Tubing even with the top of the hotend then slide it in. Make sure to check to see if the filament is sliding in smoothly.

That's it.

Before I print this I have one question:

I am currently using the Prusa i3 Rework extruder.

Why did you move the extruder core structure up? Meaning, realtive to the mounting plate for the x-carriage?
This will move the hotend tip up by approximately 4cm. Aren't you missing those 4cm if you go to the Z axis maximum or does the upwards movement of the hotend compensate for this because you can move the Z axis these 4cm further down??

The length of the E3D v5 hotend was much longer than my old hotend, so I decided to lift the main body of the extruder up so I won't lose any of my z axis height.

Really like the design, not sure which I'm using currently, my friend printed my i3 + extruder parts for me, looks like these except no hole on the rear for the 2x fan bracket thing and no clamp for the heatsink, just a hole you shove the whole assembly into, manhandling something like that always seemed like a bad idea to me, this is a lot more civilized, defiantly upgrading to this design, only real questionable part for me is why there aren't any funnels to direct the side fans' airflow down onto the print better? Or is that redundant with 50-60mm fans? or perhaps makes the airflow too strong making weaker structures bend etc? I've mostly seen those fan ducts with 40mm ones

This was one of my first extruder design and I did find that the fans cause the hotend temperature to drop by 10 15 degrees. I used some Ceramic Insulation Tape around the heat block and it helped a bit. My newest extruder designs are way better.

Can you please post a link for the gears you use?
Every other part is already printed! :)

Sure, I did have it on the Other parts I used but I'll post for you.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:49220

Skulltruder
by schlem

Just wanted to say THANKS! I printed the latest v6 extruder after waiting for the nozzle to arrive. It is a nice snug fit on the groove mount. 6mm probably wouldn't have worked! Great design.

Glad you like it, :)

Hi,
thank you for this dedicated version for the E3D-V5 extruder, I wanted to ask if you had done a new version for the V6, because I had to change my hotend with the new version V6, and with the same parts, there is play and i can't block. Thanks

Yes, I'm working on a completely different design of this extruder for the V6,V5 & Jhead but I'm still have about 2 weeks before it is all done.

But I'll add a new version of this design for the V6 sometime today.

Hello, I printed the new V6 version, but there is the same defect. I checked the size, and I saw that you have increased the central part of 0.05mm (5.55mm) that holds the extruder after That of 3.7mm (4.1 on the stl) against the rise of 0.4mm of the new extruder V6. In fact the central part measuring 6mm and not 5.6mm of the V5.
Same thing for the clamping mount, there isn't the new version? Can you verify? Thank You

Ok, it's been updated. So let me know how it works.

I have the width of the new one measured 5.85mm.

EDIT: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/File:DRAWING-V6-300-SINK-D.png

Needs 6mm :)

I tried a test print at 6mm and it's way too tight. If I go any lower on my extrusion setting I start getting holes.
So I've setting it at 5.95mm. I hope that makes everyone happy.

For though who find too tight, use boiling hot water on your tip of hotend to get it to fit. Be careful so you don't get burned.

Just printing a test print right now at 5.85mm instead of 5.55. I think I had my extrusion set for a different print.
Give me a couple of hours and I'll have the new one up.

HI, thank for your work, do you have updates?

Updated them last week, on the 24th.

Comments deleted.

Hi

Any chance of the sourcefiles for the extruder? I would like to make 3/1.75mm versions with M4 Guidler screws :)

No, I wasn't planning to release them but I know that DarkAlchemist has put out the source files for i3 rework extruder.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:457478

Prusa I3 Rework BODY-EXTRUDEUR-WADE-1.75mm-with-support with Solidworks 2014 Source

I like what you did with all of this. :)

Comments deleted.

Hi, the extruder is very good, but i think that it have a problem, i have an obstruction with 3 mm filament and i cant disasemble the e3d to the extruder, i will break it to do it. Thanks for share the design, and if u improve it i use it again. regards

Hello jorgemislata
So your E3D hotend won't fit probably or is it that the 3mm filament hole is too small?

If the hotend is too tight, you might want to check your calibration of your extruder. ZennmasterM has a good video on calibration extrusion flow on Youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLU2kePyB_WAanJvtjJGZI7l0GjY7uQJHo

Hi Mak-a-face, my problem isn't calibration, i was a jam for problems with cooler conexion.

But when i try to disassemble the hotend from the extruder i cant do it, it is design problem. If u try disassemble the extruder with filament inside its imposible, because it dont allow take out the filament. Sorry for my bad english, its very difficult for me explain the problem in english. Thanks for the tutorial calibration, its very good.

Oh, I see. Your filament is stuck in your E3D hotend and you can't remove it from the extruder body.

You could slide a HOT knife between the top of the hotend and the extruder body to cut the filament then slide your hotend off. Then you can put the hotend into a pot of bowling hot water to remove the jammed filament.

Sorry to hear that you had problem with this extruder.

jeejejeje NO NO, you design its amazing an very good, the jam is my problem, i only tell it to you for u can improve it if u want, its a review not a critique. Thanks again for share and make this design, its very good!!!

Good Extruder!

My E3D V5 didnt fit exactly but a little work with the hobby knife and it was perfect. love the fan attachment but I have yet to wire it up fully.

Wished I would have printed the remix with 1.75mm and auto bed level but this is a good design. Waaaay too much play in my hotend before using this.

Anyone having a loose fit with the mount to the extruder? I seem to have some play with the nozzle not being secured to the extruder completely.

Yeah, I didn't have my filament extrusion set properly. The extrusion flow was set to the default setting. (1). That's why the holes seem bigger.

Yep, me too. I fixed it by inverting the clamp and tightening it firmly, the hotend is now solid and won't move but it is slightly crooked, it hasn't affected any prints.

Just to note, my printer is strongly calibrated and it printed the part with the same dimensions as the .stl file, possibly just too much tolerance in the model.

I also found a fix by wrapping the groove around the top of the hotend with electrical tape. This was enough to make a snug fit with the clamp to the extruder body.

Really great, looking to print this one out for myself, but thinking about modifying it slightly for the e3d v6 and maybe some pfte-tubing within the extruder body for flexible filaments. Can you please share your sources so it's easier to modify? :)

The only thing that you need to do to fit a E3D v6, is drill out the filament hole to 4mm instead of 3mm that it is now to install the PTFE tubing. The tight the fit, less chane it will move on you. You'll also have to leave the bowden coupler off the top of the hotend so that you can slide it on the extruder body and clamp it down.

I think the mounting clamp (and extruder body) also would need a slight change, as the dimensions have changed.See the 6mm gap on the heatsink that should be clamped here: http://files.e3d-online.com/v6/Drawings/V6-175.pdf. On the V5, this is 5.6mm (http://files.e3d-online.com/Drawings/E3D_Heat_Sink.jpg), which I suspect would leave an excessive amount of play for a part that should be held firmly in place.

.4 mm isn't going to make a difference with this extruder because the clamp only clamps the top portion of the hotend, shown on the 4th picture of this extruder. Like I mention before the bowden coupler on top of the E3D hotend will have to be left off if you're planning to use the new 1.75 version.

I have one other issue, are the holes for the idler nuttraps sized for M4 or M3 nuts? they seem too small for M4 nuts but the M3 nuts just spin in the traps

what hobbed bolt works with this, the hobbed bolt from makerfarm is hobbed in the wrong location!

The hobbed bolt that I used was the M8 x 50mm but M8 x 60mm should also work, you'll just need to add a few more washers.
I've switch to a new one now, it's called Arcol Hyena, it's made in Hungary. Check out the TEETH on that hobbed bolt.
http://blog.arcol.hu/chrome-beauty/http://blog.arcol.hu/chrome-be...
You can adjust it from both ends. You can also get it at voxel factory.

I have heard about that one but wanted to get the hob domestically in the US. I managed to get my old hobbed bolt from my i2 to work (sourced from ultimachine I believe). and the makerfarm hobbed bolt to work on my i2 gregs extruder.

M3 nuts for the nuttraps. As for the guilder, I recall that spinorkit came out with a shorter version for 40mm bolts that might work if you can't get any 60mm M3 bolts. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:327477

I made a mistake, M8x60 hobbed bolt is the one I used, the groove for the filament is half way, 26 mm. I got it at UltiBots located in Vero Beach, Florida. http://www.ultibots.com/wades-hobbed-bolt-26mm-hobb/
Like I mention about the Arcol Hyena, you can get it a Voxel Factory in Canada. http://www.voxelfactory.com/collections/reprap-parts-prusa-i3-others/products/arcol-hyena-v2-0-hobbed-bar

Greg's Wade extruder idler for 40mm M3 bolts

what one's are 3mm plz ?

They are all design for 3mm filament. I'm using 1.75mm and it works fine. The top of the E3D hotend has a bevel opening that makes it easy for the filament slide in.

thank you.. i'm hoping you can do the two design's of this with the back plant's missing so i can add my own as i'm having trouble with a direct drive extruder for a Lautr3k build i'm doing if you can it would be a (BIG) help also it may help other's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAtFRPvZYYghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?...

Hi,
holy this fans should cool down everything on the printerbed i think that works well to cool the PLA but do you not have some problems that the air flow cools down you hotend extremely ? I use the same Hoted with a fan duct on my mendelmax 2 but when the fan starts to run, it cools down my hotend extremely and so i can only use it to around 80% of the speed. I have the problem when i print small parts like the ultimaker robot, the fan can´t fast enough cool down the PLA so the edges starting to wraping. Do you know this proplem too ? maybe your solution can solve this proplem. Best Regards

Overhang Test Print (Customizable)

Hey GasMonkey

Yes, I do get temperature drop by 8 degrees at 185c when the
fans kick in but it bounces back after a few seconds. At high temps I get maybe
2 degrees drop. You could use a Ceramic Insulation Tape around the heat block.

As for overhang, I’ve notice that anything under 45 degrees and
it warps a bit. I’ll run some test and post the result this weekend.

I think you have the baddest looking x-carriage on any I3 I've seen! Makes me want to remove mine from my I3 and turn it into a rework.

Thanks, yeah I think that's the best part of building your own 3D printer.