Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

MPCNC Dust Shoe / Accessory Mod

by brandroid64 Oct 20, 2017
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I have 25mm tubing and would like to use this design. What would I need to change in order to get it working with 25mm?

Not 100% sure, since I don't have that size. You should be able to adjust the rod position offset parameters in customizer, I'm just not sure to what.

None of these parts fit together, 3D printed.

Settings? Printer? Filament type?

Settings? 2 perimeters, 35% infill, 4 top/bottom layers
Printer? Rostock Max
Filament type? PLA
All these part are for conduit not 1" Stainless. Add 8mm to the X axis, gets them to 25.4mm tubing.
Maybe this will help others.

Good point. I'll make an update. BTW, how much did you spend on 1" stainless? I can't even find any of that around here!

I bought 40', 1/16" .0625 wall, for $120. There are 2 types of stainless tubing seamless @$10 per ft or welded seam @ $2.75 per ft. The welded seam has a better finish due to post processing. Slightly lower strength rating, but I didn't feel it was a big deal in this application.
Any welding or machine shop should be able to order it in. Find a smaller shop, if you can, and explain what your doing, ask/beg for help, never hurts. Also most shops order metal in every week or two, so being willing to wait makes a difference too. It comes in 20' sticks. They will charge a big fee for short pieces. It was cheaper to order 40' than 30'. Which also gave me enough tubing for a lowrider2 in the near future.

Nice! I really need to get my Lowrider2 finished soon...
Curious, did you try with cheap conduit first and run into issues that could were then solved by going to stainless?

I've built a lot of things with conduit over the years, stainless is much stiffer. My MPCNC has a 2' x 3' work area, so the tubing lengths are 35" and 48". I don't believe I will need a center support with the stainless. Also, I have a friend with a machine shop, so he sold me the stainless at cost, and let me use his saw to cut it all. Trying to finish the dust collector, I can't turn it loose in my shop, to much dusting the way it is. It will probably get evicted to the garage.

With the latest Customizer/SCAD, you can specify offsets for the rod positions, which should allow you to add 8mm. The problem is the axis they are based on is 45° from the tubes, so you'll need to use a little math to get it right. I just looked into making it easier to switch between tubing sizes, and I did a lot of hard-coding based on STL imports (since @Allted hasn't put out any sort of source :D), so that's going to take more time than I have.

@pianotinker can you post an image that illustrates what didn't work properly? Maybe I can infer what needs to change.

Thanks for adding that! I printed it off though and the hole is now offset even further towards the vacuum hole. Also the Skirt that should bolt to it matches the diameter of the other base and isn't large enough for this new one. The rod mounts that attach to the gantry are using a captured nut which is different than the ones in the pictures. Was there a length change? Also as for the actual DW660 Mount, the bracing on it still hits this other base so it can't plunge very deep. Thank you for any insight, I'm really hoping to get this one working as I much prefer the gantry supporting the weight

Ouch. Sorry about that. You know how prototyping is! I think I actually used my router to open up that hole on my last printed iteration. Then I switched to cutting it from acrylic, and everything became clear (literally)! I would highly recommend doing that as well, as you can see if any part is hitting or stuck or anything. Plus acrylic glides over surfaces a tad better than filament.
Anyways, I've uploaded a new base with an increased tool offset (increased by 7mm) and tool diameter (increased by 6mm). Feel free to click on "Open in Customizer" to test your own values!
I realized part of the problem was I designed this with my Dremel in mind, which is a much smaller tool. Anyways, I hope this works!

Are you using a different tool mount than the one off of the V1 website? I printed this off and the center hole isn't perfectly centered around the tool and even if it was the DW660 mount hits the base plate before the endmill is even 1/4" into the material it's cutting. I verified my printer is printing at the correct dimensions and it is properly calibrated. I'm using 1/16" and 1/8" endmills so they are only 1.5-2" long but I'm leaving as much out as possible. I did notice that the file here for the base plate has the 3 rod mounts though and the skirt looks taller than the one in your pictures. Is there a link to the 2 rod one?

Good catch. I've uploaded the pictured 2-rod base and removed the old one (which was indeed off).

Do you have any pictures of the acrylic version completed?

Here's one I found in my gallery.

Thanks! Although it seems from your picture and the SVG's that the gcode "MPCNCVacMod_SkirtTop_6mm_EC11.gcode" does not match? (at least - when I open that gcode in Estlcam it looks pretty different)
Also - any change you have the SVG for the middle part?

any new changes to this boss man? working on printing it now.

I'll post my latest, but I had to take a break on CNC the past few weeks (to make room for Zelda).

lol..well i have printed everything already,

If I may ask, why does the ShoeBase part have a 3rd rod attach point?

Good question. Just trying to stabilize the vacuum. Once it kicks in, depending on the type of hose you have, it can tend to pull upwards, so I was trying to counter that with a third rod. I haven't gotten around to printing a proof of concept yet though. My current project is aluminum sheet milling, which I'm just vacuuming by hand.

So The Third Rod Atrtach Point is not used? Rite? Because The upper section has nowhere for a third rod to go through in this current design.

Correct. I'll post the latest designs soon, which do not include the 3rd post. Also, I figured out through real usage that 3d printing this is actually a bad idea. I switched over to milling acrylic, and my enjoyment is many times better. I can watch everything that happens, and my workspace doesn't look like MDF snow town!

Can you post your CNC files for milling this?

Lol!, well I may do the same them. I havent tried acrylic on my MPCNC yet. What is the best bit for that? I am assuming you set a low RPM to keep it from melting, and welding itself back as you cut??

Make sure to use "cell cast acrylic" (it's the kind that has paper protecting it), and you should be fine. I do also use a router speed controller from Harbor Freight to dial down the speed. As for the bit, I just use cheap 1/8" end mills, and they've been working great so far. Milled acrylic, MDF (without burning!), and even aluminum! I bought some fancy single/double-flute upcut end mills, but haven't tried any of those yet.

Can we see an installed pic?