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Model railroad, set of bents (supports) for a custom trestle

by wolverineboat, published

Model railroad, set of bents (supports) for a custom trestle by wolverineboat Mar 2, 2014

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Summary

This is a set of bents from my trestle design. I used the HO trestle design and built bents with heights from 15-mm to 90-mm. The top width of all of the bents is 40 mm. The bottom width is determined by the height, beam angle and top width. For O or S scale, you'll probably want to scale up by somewhere around 150%. For N or Z, scale by about 70%.

Instructions

This is a set of bents (supports) for a model railroad trestle. I took some liberties in the design to make printing easier. This bent design is same as my trestle except that I removed the fillets I had put in the trestle design to facilitate printing. The top width is 40-mm (a little bigger than what you need for HO). Heights range from 15-mm to 90-mm every 5-mm.

Parts list: None.

Assembly instructions: One angle beam is already attached. The opposite angle beam is printed separately and you can glue it to the assembly if desired (it looks OK without it).

Printing Instructions: The bents were printed on a Makerbot Replicator2

  • PLA (Makerbot filament)
  • Printed: Low(faster) resolution, 5% infill, 2 shells, 0.30 mm layer height, 230C

This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by the Free Software Foundation; either version 3 of the License, LGPL version 2.1, or (at your option) any later version of the GPL. see http://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl-2.0.html

Woverine Boat LLC is providing this document and its contents on an "as is" basis and makes no representations or warranties of any kind with respect to this communication or its contents. Woverine Boat LLC disclaims all such representations and warranties, including for example warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose.

Version number 14
Author : Wolverine Boat, LCC - [email protected]
Copyright 2014 by Wolverine Boat, LCC
Created March 1, 2014
Modification:
Feb 18, 2014 ... original version of trestle (ver #13)
March 1, 2014 ... set of bents (design version #14)
Special instructions:
User feedback:
Limitations:
Designed with OpenSCAD 2013.06

Model train info (approximate values and may depend on manufacturer (1" equals 25.4 mm)

O27 scale 1:48, track ~50.0-mm W x 10.3-mm H, typical car ~54.8-mm W x 79.3-mm H, car+track ~ 89.6 mm H, 1-ft = 6.4 mm

S scale 1:64, track ~47.0-mm W x 13.6-mm H, typical box car 51.2-mm W x 67.8-mm H, car+track ~ 81.4-mm H, 1 ft=4.8 mm

HO 1:87, track ~28.5-mm W x 4.6-mm H, typical box car 36.0-mm W x 55.8-mm H, car+track ~60.4-mm H, 1 ft=3.6 mm

N 1:160, track ~16.0-mm W x 3.8-mm H, typical box car 20.3-mm W x 31.5-mm H, car+track ~ 35.3-mm H, 1 ft=1.9 mm

Z 1:220, track ~16.0-mm W x 4.7-mm H, typical box car 15.6-mm W x 21.9-mm H, car+track ~ 26.6-mm H, 1 ft=1.4 mm

(Lionel O track is 4.4-mm higher than O27 track). I have not listed G scale because it's too big for my designed parts.

Disclaimer: This design was not based on a specific prototype and there isn't a true scale for this bent. The design is based loosely on Google images of various trestles around the world. Features and dimensions of real bridges were altered for the simplicity of the design and to make the bents more printable.

Some best practices for printing:

  • optimize print parameters for your printer, filament, etc (only you can determine the best parameters)
  • use good filament
  • level your build plate prior to printing complex parts. it's worth the few minutes it takes. always level after removing tape, or if pulling hard to remove a part.
  • make sure the build plate is clean.
  • if using blue tape, stretch it tight when applying it to the build plate.
  • if you have small holes in the blue tape, the bents should still print without any problems, but the bent surface won't be smooth
  • pre-feed the filament 30 to 60-s before printing (i.e., run load for 30-60s)
  • do not print several complicated parts in one build (do complex parts by themselves)
  • I find that printing faster is better (probably so the filament can't ball up in one spot)
  • when the filament spool gets low, the filament can be tightly wound on the spool and the filament may not feed properly... take special care...
  • when a new spool is used, it is easy for the filament to jump outside the spool and then it will bind up later around the spool holder ruining your build
  • make sure it is easy for the filament to enter the filament feed tube. others have designed spools, mounts, etc. for that purpose. i use a small rope that forces the filament away from the spool before entering the filament feed tube.
  • if you hear clicking when printing, that may be a result of the filament wrapped around the spool and not feeding
  • make sure that there aren't any obstructions on the spool, such as some filament used to hold it in place during shipping
  • for the replicaor2, look at the blob a filament in the left front part of the build plate and then the trail of filament to the biuild location. there should be a glob, and the line of filament should be continuous and smooth
  • one way to remove parts when using blue tape is to use a very thin spatula bought in craft-art stores (advice from youtube). get one with a wide, blunt front end (not long and thin). mine is 11 mils thick (0.011") and 20-mm wide at the front. a painting spatula/scraper in hardware stores won't work and may damage the build plate. (I use blue tape so I don't have any best practices for bare plates, heated plates or for other tapes like mylar)
  • perform regular maintenance (grease, etc).
  • when I continued to have problems printing even after performing maintenance, following troublshooting instructions, changing filaments, cleaning gears, cleaning everything, optimizing print parameters, changing temperatures, etc., I bought a new extruder assembly from Makerbot and it solved all of my problems.

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