- You might be able to get away without supports. I used them in the larger screw holes and the 'notch' at the base of the female plug shell.
- The shell design is (intentionally) a very tight fit for a male-female pair of 12V CCTV power plugs (2.1mm x 5.5mm). You may need to play with scaling/etc. to fit the plugs you use.
- I slice using Simplify3D set to a ‘horizontal size compensation’ of -0.20mm… which conveniently means I can design in AutoCAD with no gaps between parts, and that -0.20mm creates the nice gap for me. Perhaps naughty :)
My mains power bar and a 12V transformer are all mounted under the base that the printer sits on, nicely out of sight. But the lights (and whatever else like fans, a Pi, webcam, etc.) in the top enclosure need DC power too. Sure it’s easy to just disconnect a connector or two before lifting off the enclosure, but I wanted something more elegant – which wouldn’t need me to remember to disconnect/connect cables!
I considered running the cable up through one of the LACK legs (they are mostly hollow) and integrating a connector right into the base mount of the leg (see my https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2613678). But that felt a little over-complicated, and I was leery about having 1/4 of the top enclosure’s weight resting on top of the power connection. So I built something attached to the side of a back leg, and tidied it up with some cable channel covers in the same PLA material.
The shell design is (intentionally) a very tight fit for a male-female pair of 12V CCTV power plugs (2.1mm x 5.5mm, I used these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Pair-DC-Power-Socket-Plug-Screw-Terminal-12V-Volt-CCTV-Adaptor-2-1mm-x-5-5mm/122240856534). You may need to play with scaling/etc. to fit the plugs you use.
Female plug shell with cap removed
The height for the (male) base is the thickness of a LACK tabletop (50mm) minus the underside exterior shell thickness (2.7mm-ish). You only need to cut a square hole in the table’s top for the base (I used a Dremel), and then a drill hole directly below the square, just big enough to run your cable down through the table’s underside. The rest of the underside supports the shell+plug, particularly when you’re placing the top on its base (i.e. when force is pushing down on the male plug).
Male plug in tabletop, with cap removed
Also as I’m tuning my new Wanhao i3 Plus printer, its dimensional accuracy is still a bit off (maybe I need a finer nozzle than 0.4mm?). So I slice using Simplify3D set to a ‘horizontal size compensation’ of -0.20mm… which conveniently means I can design in AutoCAD with no gaps between parts, and that -0.20mm creates the nice gap for me. This is probably terrible design practice, but for now in my early 3D career it’s working quite well for me. Apologies if it doesn’t for you – polite suggestions welcome.
My first design had a ‘tab’ to screw the top plug shell and cap to the leg (see extra photos). But as I was about to mount those I realised I could do this more elegantly with some ‘blind’ screw holes for the plug shell, and four M3x6mm set screws (a.k.a. ‘grub screws’) for the cap (you do not need a tap and die set for these tiny holes btw, the set screws will basically make their own threads in the plastic). Note the bottom cable channel cover also helps to hold the cap+shell+plug down when you’re placing the top on its base (i.e. when force is pushing up on the female plug).
The cable channel cover is 150mm long, so you’ll need to print a few/adjust to make up the height of your enclosure legs (minus the female cap+shell at the bottom of the leg). Someday I need to learn how to have the Thingiverse Customizer make this an easy parametric setting. I considered making some sort of snap-on cap to hide the cover screws (two per segment in my design), but decided that was a tad overboard.
I don’t know how many connect-disconnect cycles the plugs will handle before they start to fail. Guess I will find out, and they’re not hard to replace (I bought five pairs just in case). The leg mounts from my enclosure design (see: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2613678) do help to ensure they are aligned when coupling, making for a smooth fit and hopefully less wear.
PS. The yellow 'Junction Box Cover for Wago 222/221 Terminal Connectors' is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2625724
PPS. The lighting is just regular 3528 flexible LED strip/rope lights (cool white / 6000K) cut into four segments, and mounted in slim aluminum (North American spelling) strip light channel with a clear PVC cover. Since there was 16 feet of these lights, I also ran some inside the Wanhao’s top frame. The latter really helps to reduce shadows and illuminate the print bed evenly. The LED set also came with an RF wireless remote dimmer, which is handy. I bought this kit (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IN5BLUG) but there are hundreds of these sets out there.