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vergienc

Hypercube Evolution Complete Hotend Assembly

by vergienc Oct 31, 2017
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Hi Guys, do you have a belt clamp xo x carriage 2.1.3? the included belt clamp seems to be a little bit wider and longer than the slot for clamping the belt. thanks

Using X_Carriage_2.1.3.STL/Extruder_Mount_2Conn_1.1.STL with the new type E3D heater block (https://wiki.e3d-online.com/File:Cartridge_Block_Drawing.png) seem to give me some challenges with the Duct_Nozzle_2.1.STL - the heatblock touches the duct (or is at least extremely close in doing so).
Any plans to modify the duct - so it will fit the new type ?

Comments deleted.

The fan duct - is that mounted via M3 screws/bolts ?

Yes, the bolts bite into the plastic to secure the duct in the front; however, the back is held by friction between the printed duct and fan mount.

I don't suppose there is a version available for the Nimble sidewinder with BL Touch and E3D V6 hotend without the Precision Piezo is there? I saw one for just the standard Nimble.

Thanks for any help!

No, I have not designed that version yet.

Ah okay, thanks for the reply.

Hi folks, how can I combine E3D V6 with BLtouch? Is there different mount for BLTouch? BLTouch_Mount_1.1 is too short.

Thanks

I wonder if you have the newest version of BLTouch. I think I read somewhere it's shorter than previous versions, which would explain your problem.

If you are comfortable with Fusion 360, perhaps you can just Press pull the bottom face enough to make it all fit?

In the comments below there are some who placed 3mm nuts to extend the distance a bit. I was going to adjust the file, but it is simple in Fusion or another program to just extend the bottom face to meet your needs.

Hallo, kannst du mir bitte sagen welche STL Dateien ich drucken muss, baue gerade einen ganz normalen Hypercube.Danke

It depends on what you are using, but the basic configuration is as follows:

  1. Extruder Mount -- Extruder_Mount_2Conn_1.1
  2. Extruder Mount Clamp -- Extruder_Mount_Clamp_1.1
  3. Extruder Mount MPX cover -- Extruder_Mount_Conn_Cover_1.1
  4. X-Carriage -- X_Carriage_1.1
  5. Fan Mount -- Fan_Mount_1.1
  6. Duct -- Duct_1.1

That will get you going, but the duct version will change if you use a different x-carriage. There are many options with this design.

Is there a way to mount the x min/max endstops to the x carriage instead of the extruder mount? This allows them to stay when changing heads.

I considered this when I first designed the hotend assembly, and in the end you still have wires for the heater block, fans, etc, so regardless you will need some wiring. End stops are cheap. However, if you were to design something with Pogo pins, then you could essentially swap heads, but that would require a complete re-design. That said, it is possible with a redesigned assembly, but not something I have time to do.

Hi Is ther a way to get the CADfile for the Nimble Piezo mount? i would love to use it for the BLV mgm cube printer.

What holds the X_Carriage_2.1.1 and Extruder_Mount_2Conn_1.1 together?

A 3mm bolt and nut in the center, similar to the original SCOTT3D design.

Hello, I see absolutely no difference between the extruder mount 2 connector and the extruder mount 3 connector. Also it would have been nice if you had marked which extruder mount was for the E3D hot end. Also nothing allows connection of the BL Touch, that I can see. The fan mount, of which has a mount for something, is not for the BL touch.

I encourage you to read through the information first because most, if not all, of your questions can be answered from the STL Information document in the files section or described in the Thing Details section. More to your questions though, I am not sure the difference you are looking for between the extruder mount 2 connector and the extruder mount 3 connector, but it literally is just one more connector if you so choose to use 3 instead of 2. Your choice. As stated in the Thing Details section, these mounts are for E3D V6 or clones. Again, your choice. Lastly, the BL Touch is not only in the image showing the different configurations of the mounts and listed in the STL Information file, there is a file in the files section called: BLTouch Mount 1.1 which you can use to mount a BL Touch. There have been some people who required a spacer to use it, but others have not. If you search through the comments you should be able to find it. Hopefully you can figure out what you need, good luck.

I need help and I'm at my wits end...

My problem is definitely part cooling, but I don't know what I am doing wrong.

My setup is as follows.

Duet Wifi
E3D V6 bowden (tried both genuine, trianglelabs just in case something's wrong with my original one).
Nozzle and heatbreak is E3D (tried all metal and titanium, effect is the same).
The picture I am posting now has a copper heat block. I tried the original one that came with V6 from E3D (but this shouldn't matter at all in my mind).
Precision Piezo Orion
Nozzle is a regular 0.4mm brass E3D one.
I tried the original sock - pro and regular, trianglelabs is thicker and gets slightly better results.
Cooling was set at all possible options - 25%, 50%, 75%, 100% - fan is a Sunon blower at 1.21W (24V).
Originally, I tried the 360 diffuser. In the photo, I have the diffuser 2.1 installed.
X Carriage is the 2.1 version.
Speeds were anywhere between 40 and 80mm/s. I didn't try slower, since that would honestly defeat the purpose of a HEVO.
In my previous setup - I ran without the Piezo and with a BLTouch - all prints were pretty much perfect.

You can see that the pillars there didn't get enough cooling.
I tried printing the nozzle duct, but it does not fit my setup (blue part). The heat block (with the longer part directed outwards from the duct) is still too big to allow it to be mounted.

Trouble is, all diffusers (360 and 180) don't give enough targetted air right below the nozzle to cool properly - or at least that's what I guess my problem is.

I don't know if this matters, but the bottom of the diffuser is roughly in the middle of the nozzle brim with quite a bit protruding below.

Now I mentioned the socks I tried before, since I am fairly certain, the diffuser the way it is now is also throwing cool air on the heat block, which causes a lot of temperature fluctuation, which might explain the lines I see on the print - there is no Z wobble (I know since PETG I use hardly needs cooling and lines are not visible there).

Has anyone else had issues like this?
I don't suppose there's a version of the duct nozzle that would fit my setup (I noticed here in comments vergienc did post some mods to allow for bigger heat blocks, but didn't see what I need here).

TIA

EDIT: One note - blue duct was printed with the current setup using the gray duct on the left - not enough cooling which results in terrible stringing.
Gray duct - printed on the very same printer, but with different x carriage attachment - the one for BLTouch - notice the difference in quality.

There was one person who modified the duct slightly to get more airflow directed at the nozzle.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338547

I would try the above file, but in my experience I have printed without a fan and do not see results similar to yours. I use a silicone sock for my hotends. Additionally, I extended the length of the blue duct and enlarged the area for the heatblock for you to try. Let me know if one of these works for you.

When people talk about the airflow, sometimes I wonder how the Ultimaker works with the airflow scheme they are using. That said, it seems some of your issues could be related to retraction or filament printing temperature. It looks like you might be printing a tad to high and the retraction might not be enough. The odd thing, however, is when you change the x-carriage, you get better prints. What is the other carriage attachment you are using?

Hypercube Evolution Duct Remix (from vergienc)

Right. So I forgot to write about temps.

I was printing PLA. I tried 190-220C at 5C intervals. Always the same problem.
PETG prints perfectly.

Thanks for the rework. It's almost perfect. Almost - because now, I can easily fit the heating block lenghtwise, but there's not enough clearance on the sides. I need to skip the sock now, but when I do, air blows on the heatblock directly and my duet screams heater fault, since the temps drop like crazy ;) If I put the sock, that side is blocked in terms of air flow.

I'm attaching a picture to show the problem.

Incidentally, I just noticed that the top bracket broke. I will need to reprint it and see how much that addressed the problem. Something tells me I have the whole hotend a bit too low - is this what you see as well based on your design?

The other carriage I tried was the original HEVO one with your attachment for BLTouch and a totally different one for Titan Aero (back when I was still using it, but that's a totally different ball game).

I see the issue. When I get back from my travel, I can send an updated duct in about 10 days.

I believe you need a sock to get everything to work; however, in the meantime I think you can use Kapton Tape on the heat block to block the airflow. It should be enough to get some results until I can modify the duct.

Awesome. Thank you! :)

I did a test print with a sock on and limited air flow, but the results are insane.
Benchy never looked this good in my case ;)

I'll wait patiently for your return then and in the meantime, focus on printing with PETG, which just works on that printer (and then print everything in the vertigo petg once everything's set to keep colors the same ;) )

Hi, checking in to see if you maybe had a moment to take a look at the part cooling duct? :) I just reprinted your carriage for the Bondtech - would love to get the setup complete.

Yes, I created a 15 degree angle from the bottom of the duct for each port on the diffuser. Let me know how this works. It should direct the airflow towards the nozzle a bit better than before.

Awesome. Got some PETG and can print now. Will update as I go on :)

Please update when you can. I am interested in the improvement and if it is significant, I should update the files.

Huge difference.
I printed in a different filament (same brand and type though, just different color), so need to reprint to be 100% sure of the result, but Benchy looks awesome! I'll update later on with the other filament.

Yep, confirmed. Cooling problem gone, but it showed other issues, that are a part of calibration anyway (hopefully :) ).
Thank you for the part. Now down to working on the ringing bit to get rid of that.

Post some pics, before and after if possible.

Attached :)

MInd you - this is the first real print out of this printer. There's loads of calibration and tweaking to be done still :)

This looks quite good. When I get a chance, I'll update the ducts. Thanks for the initial comment to make the duct better than I originally designed it.

Hi,

i printed the PP_Orion_Heatsink_Mount_2.1.STL amd PP_Orion_Heatsink_Mount_2.2.STL with the corresponding clamps but it seems that i have the wrong screws, i actual tried M3 Hex Socket Cap Screw buth those seems to be to big.
what would be the right once for that?

Hi!

Would you be so kind and rotate the Nimble a little to the left?
At the moment it covers one of the Piezo Orion mounting screws. :(

Hello:

Attached is the Zesty rotated 15 degrees rather than the original 5 degrees as was originally designed. I also removed the holder since you are modifying it for your printer.

Hi!

Thank you very much but I am using the "PP_Orion_Extruder_Mount_Zesty_Nimble_1.1.STL" version. I modified the file on my own and now I have to wait for 7 hours to test the final print. :D

Is there a way to get this for E3D V6 bowden please ? TO be hones files a bit mess, very hard to oriented in, other then that very nice work... :) I would like to get some list of parts what fits for E3D V6... Got 16mm ingus bearings for M8..

Most are for E3D V6 Bowden. I would encourage you to read through the pdf that explains each component. I do agree, the files are a bit much, but the project started small, then this is what happens when you keep creating variations. I think you will find everything you need if you take some time to figure out your setup. Also, scroll through the comments. There are other questions that could help you. Good luck.

Thx i did check that, but there is only mention common word e3d without the version variation. Since E3d has many versions, then it is very hard to guess what version its compatible with what..

I cannot figure it out, can anyone please send me list of parts for E3D V6 bowden head ? Thx

It depends on what you are using, but the basic configuration is as follows:

  1. Extruder Mount -- Extruder_Mount_2Conn_1.1
  2. Extruder Mount Clamp -- Extruder_Mount_Clamp_1.1
  3. Extruder Mount MPX cover -- Extruder_Mount_Conn_Cover_1.1
  4. X-Carriage -- X_Carriage_1.1
  5. Fan Mount -- Fan_Mount_1.1
  6. Duct -- Duct_1.1

That will get you going, but the duct version will change if you use a different x-carriage. There are many options with this design.

Thank you a lot.. about duct that i can easy test, i was only confused what to used about mounts and Carriage, btw you doing very good job, thx...

Give this a try. The carriage is 60 mm wide with an internal bearing size of 11.2 mm diameter, and a relief on the inside to allow the bearings
to move slightly. There is also a place to use a rounded 3 mm bolt to secure the brass bearings on the ends to prevent them from sliding out. I know there are screws to clamp the bearings, but they should not be used in my opinion. If you squeeze them too much, the bearing will deform slightly and not ride along the linear shaft easily.

20190311 - That should be there, but probably extended a bit more. Try this one. Print and fit the bearings.

It works well, but there is a problem with printing.

thanks, I'll write as I check

Could you share the files in solidworks, I would like to try making a remix for E3D Chimera? Thank you.

Unfortunately, I don't share the Solidworks files; however, I started to make a version for a Chimera heatsink and duct. Attached are two STL's. One for mounting the Chimera and the other is the corresponding duct you would need. This duct is for the 2.x carriages. Please print and test these for fit, and once I confirm they work, I will include them in the overall files.

No problems. I will do the test, and return with a feedback. Thank you!!!

EDIT
The 2.1.1 Xcarriage is fine. I didn't realise that the original hypercube x rods were wider apart.

Really nice work BTW.


I printed the 2.1.1 X carriage for 19mm igus bearings but it doesn't fit onto the carbon fibre X axis rods. The distance between the two rods is wider than the distance between the top and bottom bearings on the carriage.

I've tried with two different xy joiner designs.

I pulled the carriage and mated it with an original SCOTT3D joiner and everything lined up as it should. I am not sure what happened with the one you printed as you are the first to mention this issue. Also, in the image I used an 8 mm joiner, but it is the same for the 10 mm, just larger holes. I personally use 10 mm rods with no problem. Maybe you are not using an original SCOTT3D joiner?

Can I use these parts with Tech2C's original x-carriage?

No, they are not compatible. The distance between his x-rods are wider than what was designed with the Hypercube EVO.

Thanks vergienc I discovered that last night. Explains my other post re 2.1.1 not carriage not fitting my x rods.

is there a direct drive version of this? going to be printing some TPU and that would be handy> thanks KH

I designed one for a BMG, but have not uploaded it. If you want to give it a try, I can attach the STL here. There is another person in the HEVO FB group that modified my design, but not sure if he uploaded it.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercubeevolution/permalink/1227921430694468?sfns=mo

I'm also interested in the stl files :) Great Hotend Assambly by the way!

the stl would be great, Thanks KH

I couldn't wait so I remixed vergienc's Hotend assambly. Maby have a look :) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3467120

Bondtech BMG Direct for Hypercube Evolution
by x3on

Sorry for the delay, I have been on travel the past 3.5 weeks. Below are the STL files for the BMG mount. Let me know what you think as I can easily modify the mount, but this is the best I could do to utilize the rest of the parts while maintaining the same height. I considered moving the motor to the side the way you have it; however, you will lose some width of the build plate. The other reason is the weight is not balanced, yet having the motor high might create some ringing in the model. I have not tested this because I don't have one. Lastly, as you can see, there is a small tube required between the hotend heatsink and extruder, not much I can do without separating the bearings and place the motor between them.

I´ve also done a new design with bmg / Piezo combination...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3589003

Hypercube Evolution Mount for Bondtech BMG Direct Extruder and Orion Piezo with E3d V6

Hi, I have almost printed everything for my nimble/orion combination (PP_Orion_Extruder_Mount_Zesty_Nimble_1.1) but I have a couple of questions. Sorry if I missed some answers, tried to look through the answers below.

First, is the holes for the electrical covers for the MPX connectros suppose to have brass inserts? And with the optical endstops as well? The holes is partly under the "slopes" of the mount, so can't really use nuts here. My last questions is: Is the 5015 supposed to be just press fit?

Thanks!

Thanks for the comment, not sure if I ever explicitly explained what you are asking.

The holes in all electrical covers, to include the end stops, are designed such that the screw will bite into the plastic directly, so they are not designed for any brass inserts.

As for the 5015, I recently discovered that I have a chamfer on the fan mount, which pushes the fan up slightly; thus the screws are a bit difficult to install now to mount the fan. The fan mounting holes are the same whereby the screws bite into the plastic.

Ah, okay, thank you so much for the answer! I'll get on with the build then :)

Thanks for the comment, not sure if I ever explicitly explained what you are asking.

The holes in all electrical covers, to include the end stops, are designed such that the screw will bite into the plastic directly, so they are not designed for any brass inserts.

As for the 5015, I recently discovered that I have a chamfer on the fan mount, which pushes the fan up slightly; thus the screws are a bit difficult to install now to mount the fan. The fan mounting holes are the same whereby the screws bite into the plastic.

I assembled everything and only have an issue with the diffuser 2.2 fitting on the fan duct 1.1. The diffuser has a bad lean and doesn’t fit well on the duct. The duct on the diffuser is too close to the x carriage making the fit really hard. I had to drill the fan duct to push it up. It the picture you will see I have zip ties pulling the diffuser up or it touches the glass prior to the nozzle.

I see your issue, but it is hard for me to figure out because you are mixing terms, but I’ll give it a shot. The x-carriage you are using requires you to use a version 2.x of the duct and not a 1.x version of the duct. The fan mount 1.1 will fit any of the ducts and the only difference is the length of the duct as the 2.x carriages are thicker and require a longer duct to fit. If you are having this issue, I would also re-check that the fan mount is flush, which is looks ok from the picture, and the screw mounts are clean of any debris around the front mount. These parts have low tolerances, so your printer needs to be calibrated well too. Hope this helps.

for "PP_Orion_Extruder_Mount_Embedded_Bowden_1.1" how do you use the embedded bowden thing, the plastic insert which came with the e3d doesn't fit into the "PP_Orion_Heatsink_Mount_2.2"

Take a look at the description of these files again, but basically you need to press a push fit connector brass body insert into the mount at the top (8 mm x 4 mm deep) hole of the Extruder Mount, then press the black plastic collet inside the brass body. The heatsink mount does not have the ability to secure the Bowden tube since you need to movement to actuate the sensor.

do you have a link to this certain insert, I can't really find it by discription :<

Sure, check out this link.

https://e3d-online.com/embedded-bowden-coupling-for-metal

Alternatively, you should be able to pull the insert from the plastic parts sent in the Precision Piezo Orion kit.

Comments deleted.

Hi there, good looking hotend assembly. I'd like to remix/mod it to fit with Hevo AVZ (MGN rails), seems like it mostly is a matter of creating a new X carriage and a minor extension of the fan duct going between front/back.

Is there any chance you can share original files, STEP or whatever to make it easier to work with the current design?

Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately, I don’t share the STEP files; however, I don’t mind working with you to develop another x-carriage. As for the duct extensions, that is easy since I have done this in the past with others on this site.

Hello Peter,

How and where will the x-endstop be mounted?
I am planing to use the Nimble/PP orion mount...

Although this image is not a part of the files I have uploaded, you should get an idea where the endstop is located. They are optical endstops and placed on each side of the mount with the plugs sticking out the front.

Thank you very much!!

Hi Christian,

Did you already found some time to extend the design with a E3d cyclops ?
If not I'm planning to draw a model based on : 2 x zesty + cyclops + LJ12 inductieve sensor + 2 MPX connectors.

Cheers,
Peter

Hello Peter:

I would be interested in working with you on this design. I have not done it yet. You should PM me on the Facebook group so I can send files easier.

I was looking for a powerful 24V fan and stumbled over the EBM Pabst RLF 35-8/12 N
(https://www.ebmpapst.com/en/products/motors/ecigearmotors/ecigearmotorsdetail.php?pID=54117)
However it does not fit the standard fan-mount since the air outlet has a vastly different size, therefore I modified the existing FanMount_1.1.stl so it would fit, please see the STL attached.

Planning rebuild my current Frankenstein printer into a Hevo. I'm already using an E3D and a Zesty Nimble which means I need to a Piezo20 if I don't want to remix this assembly. Where can I get the Piezo20 in Europe? Seems like Precision Piezo is only selling the Orion nowadays.

If you want to only use a Zesty w/ E3D, then you need the Extruder Mount Clamp Z Nimble 1.1 – Clamp to secure the hotend heatsink for the Extruder Mount Z Nimble 1.1 mount.

fantastic job you ve done.....i have a stupid question...i m using classic 8mm rods in a small cube i have with igus ....which is the correct
plate to build for me,because i think your carriages are build for 10mm rods...or are there for 8mm as well because i see many different versions...thanks in advance

There are several x-carriages you can use for different sized bearings, so you can use the 8 mm rods. Check out the descriptions, but quickly you can probably use x carriage 1.1, x carriage 2.1.2 or 2.1.3. Not sure on the 2.x series because I don't know exactly which bearing you are using.

thanks for your reply...now i m using lm8u bearings with 8mm rods

Hi Christian,

Meanwhile I was able to test the 360 degree diffuser with the E3d Volcano.
Now I can print a perfect 3Dbenchy in any of the directions :-) ... it's an improvement above the 180 degree diffuser.

Let's start with the mounting :
1) if you want the use the Volcano with zesty and LJ probe, I had to change the extruder mount. (STL attached). The probe needs to be lowered. Maybe you can add it to the repository ?
2) mounting the diffuser...the heatblock a touching the diffuser at the backside. (see pictures). I'm using kapton tape to isolate it. It would be nice to "push" the backside a little bit inwards to make more room for the heatblock. In case the pictures aren't clear enough, please let me know.
The performs is great, using a 5015 fan & 0,8 nozzle printing PLA, I have perfect results using 50% of the cooling capacity.
Thanks again for the modification.
Cheers,
Peter

Peter:

Thanks for the feedback. As for the mounting, I like your idea and will adjust a few mounts to include your suggestion. Since you have this somewhat solved, I spent some time on the duct. I went back and printed and installed it on my EVO. I see exactly the issue. Take a look at this modified duct and let me know if it fits, because it fits mine well. If everything is good, then I'll add it to my files.

Hi Christian,

I've printed the new fanduck but I need the volcano version...the "extended" one which is 8.9mm higher.
I know, we've got a lot of combinations :-D

Cheers,
Peter

Here you go. I forgot you were using the volcano.

Hi Christian,

Thanks for the modification, I'll give it a try and let you know the result.

Cheers,
Peter

Hi,

Could you design a duct that can fit a 5020 blower fan ? The hole placement is the same as for a 5015 fan, only the thickness and the exhaust differs.
dimension of the exhaust is 19.5mmx26mm

Hi, Just was about to print the fan mount. I just noticed that the duct is 90 degree offset.
it should be 26x19.5. My bad.

I updated the file below, it should work now.

Do you want to blow the part off the bed? I am guessing that you acquired this type of fan. For reference, I use Sunon GB1205PHVX-8AY DC 12V and 2.0W, which is plenty for a part cooler, but I spent 15 minutes to see if I could quickly adjust to your fan size. See attached.

Ha no. I have this one laying around. Not going to use it on 100% power of of course ;).
Thanks for the esit, will try it out today.

Building a new HEVO and found out that Scott 3d didnt design the 10mm shaft with LM10UU bearings X carriage. All of the parts were printed and when it came to x carriage install i was supprised that the linear bearings didnt fit. Then found your make. Cool design, but im just wondering, the carriage 2.1 for the LM10UU bearings, does it fit the same shaft distance as the original one? Or i have to print the shaft end holders to meet the shaft distance of the carriage?Iv printed the shaft end holders for 10mm shafts but im curious if your x carriage will fit the setup. Will be much appreciated for clarification.

Yes, it is designed for the same shaft distance (45mm center-to-center x rod separation) from the original EVO design. You should only need to print the x-carriage 2.1 and install your bearings. Remember, with this design, you will need duct 2.x.

Hello there, I am volunteering as PP Orion Nimble Extruder Mount tester :-)

Give this a try and let me know how it works. Post pictures if you can. I need to finish the top portion, but otherwise it should be close to completion.

So I have printed the mount, the Nimble itself fits flawlessly and the Precision Orion sensor works fine, what were your thoughts on cable management from the hotend assembly to the control board? The other hotend mounts do have kind of a cable-tube-clamp for that purpose, this is currently missing in the Extruder_Mount_Orion_Zesty_Nimble_1.1_test.STL.

is it planning something to mount tube for cable management?

I have a resuest. What about integrating a BMG extruder ?
I know this means a complete redesign and to remove the bowden setup.
But if you are looking for something new..:)

If you are part of the Facebook HEVO group then you might have noticed this is what I am looking at now. Not sure when it will be completed, but considering the design and how to get it all to fit.

Hi,

PP Orion Extruder Mount PC4 1.1

Which PC4? PC4-M10?

And which coupler is to buy here with PP Orion Extruder Mount Embedded Bowden 1.1 ?

thanks

Hello

Yes, PC4-M10. I can adjust the mount to accommodate a different connector, but that seems to be the typical one used for hotends. As for the embedded Bowden mount, I used the parts that were supplied in the Precision Piezo Orion Kit. However, I believe it is similar to:
https://e3d-online.com/embedded-bowden-coupling-for-metal

I used PC4-M10, nice work, but the orion gives unuseable values in G29. Anyway good work.

I am looking for some feedback on this duct design. I attached the STL here. There have been comments in the past that the duct was too close and the heatblock would melt the duct. I created this design from a request, but I want to make sure it works. If you have my mount already and wouldn't mind printing this to check, I would appreciate it. The duct diffuser 360 is the same length as version 1.1 and extended is the 2.1 version.

Damn, can you make a 2.1. version of it? Than I will print it today

I added the extended version above, which is the same as version 2.1.

Christopher Vergien, I tested it. Flow is coming directly from the heated block. The temperature drops to 10 degrees when the fan runs. and it gives error. (Thermal runaway). I think duck needs to be lowered 3-5mm. (Sorry for my bad english).

hi,

What about the orion? Maybe you got a file I can test?

Check out the files section. Finished.

Hi Christian,
Thanks for adding the diffuser fanduck to your repository.
Can you also make a version available with a fully closed ring so we have a 360 "degree" cooling ?
I would like to this test.
Cheers, Peter

PS : not the E3d Volcano, but normal E3d....

Hello Peter:

Sure, I think it would be easy enough. I'll post it here for you to test.

Thanks Christian.
As you know, I'm using the 3mm extended one because of the different X-carriage. ;-)
Cheers, Peter

Thanks for reminder. I will go back and check the comments, but I believe yours was 3 mm extended beyond the original. In my original design, I don't have a complete loop, but like I said before, it shouldn't take long to make the change for a circular diffuser. I'll try to finish it right after I publish the Orion mount. :)

Correct, I'm using the 3mm extended version. The one in the repository works.
Can you also make the same modification to the "Volcano" (extended) version.
I'm switching from normal E3d to the volcano within a couple of weeks :-)
Cheers,
Peter

Peter:

Let me know if this works with your setup. In particular I am interested in the fit with the heatblock.

I've printed the 360 duct_ extended version. And have to say it fits great. The block is an original E3D v6 plated copper block. Which is a a little bigger than the standard e3d V6 heater block. I have yet to test it how it performs.

Thanks Christian,
I would love to test this but meanwhile my printer has a volcano extruder.
Would it be much work to provide above version to fit the volcano ?
Cheers,
Peter

is there a fan duct for a e3d Volcano?

No, I have not made one yet. Also, I started to adjust the mount so you could use the Volcano option, but I never finished it. My idea was to maintain the same nozzle height as now, but raise the hotend heatsink to accommodate for the extra length of the Volcano.

Noooo so close >.< I have the Nimble and wanted to try it out with the Volcano and Bltouch, currently using Bondtech BMG and Volcano + Bltouch but the extra weight gets a little more ghosting. Is there a chance you might be able to finish it? I wouldn't mind if you just increase the height of the fan duct, as that seems to be the easiest option.

I took a few minutes to adjust the latest ducts (diffuser version) and attached them below. These are lower by 8.5mm, which should be sufficient to use a Volcano hotend. One is for the original x-carriage and the other is for the x-carriage that is larger (extended). I will get back to the Volcano model, but first I need to finish the Precision Piezo Orion mount. Let me know how this works.

Thank you! I was about to ask about a Volcano option! :)

OMG than you so much, I will definitely let you know, currently building a third huge HEVO 500 x 500 x 700 and I will report back as soon as I can!

Hello there! What a fantastic design! Reaaly well integrated together. My Nimble and V6 fount a great home with this kit. If you have an updated duct that would better clear the nozzle block while providing good flow, that would be great!

Thanks a million!

Thanks. Here is an updated duct and images that it prints fairly well. Let me know if there needs to be any more changes. It should work, but I have not tested it yet.

Hi, with the new PP20 v1. 2 the board doesn't for on the stand off posts on the front. Are you about to modify the part PP Extruder Mount PC4 1.2 please.

The new hole centers are 24.5mm and ic's are 18mm wide.

hope that helps.

Thanks for the comment. I am in the process of updating the files to address a few issues that others brought to my attention. I can update your part issue soon and upload the STL here if you still need it.

hi, i am sorry for my question, but i am not sure, what i should print. i have this
(trianglelab v6 Clone) https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Trianglelab-Highall-metal-v6-hotend-12V-24V-remote-Bowen-print-J-head-Hotend-and-cooling-fan/1654223_32844028127.html?spm=2114.12010612/itm2home-4.8148356.38.35b422f4yk0V3t

and precision piezo clone from same company (board is without holes)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Precision-Piezo-Piezo20-Z-Probe-Sensor-Z-probe-for-3D-printers-revolutionary-auto-bed-leveling-sensor/32835568408.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5b034c4dzD3JpO

can u send me list of parts which will be suitable for this combination, include fanduct ? thank you very much.

I would encourage you to read the descriptions for each part and compare it with your setup.

However, basically you need the following:

  1. X-Carriage
  2. Extruder Mount w/ connection cover for the electrical plugs and maybe extruder mount clamp for the heatsink
  3. Fan Mount
  4. Duct

And if you want to use a Precision Piezo sensor, then you additionally need:

  1. Heatsink Mount
  2. Hotend Clamp

Again, you will need to figure out which version of each you need based on your setup.

I hope this helps.

i have read it 10 times maybe and still i am unsure what i need. for example, i dont know if i should use

PP_Universal_Extruder_Mount_Embedded_Bowden
or PP_Extruder_Mount_Embedded_Bowden

If you buy the Chinese version of the Precision Piezo sensor, which I don't recommend, then you will need the universal version since that one will allow for mounting the PCB that you referenced in your original message. This also can be seen from the Precision Piezo Test Results document in the files section where there is an image of the setup, it might help.

Hi,

can you make a version for 2 hotends like here? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115593

HyperCube Dual - Upgrade pack

I might design one later, but I am not able to start it now. Possibly this winter I can get to it.

Hi Christian,
I've done several trials with the fan duck, used different materials but with the 23mm original E3Dv6 heater block, the backside is melting. I've also noticed that the cold end fan is cooling the part because of the rounded shape.
So I've rework the extended fanduck and going to test this one. In fact it's a combination of 2 designs of which I'm using the fanduck exit on my first HEVO.
Please let me know your thoughts ?
Cheers,
Peter

Peter:

You are not the only one who is having this problem, there are others here that brought this to my attention, and since I use mainly cones, I have not run into this issue; however, I want to correct it. Thanks for the idea, it looks good. An initial comment I have is, how can you evenly distribute the air? My guess is the ribs that I created would need to be adjusted, plus maybe a few more added so air can get to the ends. Also, the cold end fan that is cooling the part due to the rounded shape is a bit confusing to me. The reason is, we typically need some cooling on the part, how much will depend on the effect. Despite this, if you really don't want any airflow, then one idea is to modify the extruder mount and design a type of damper or ridge that touches the bottom edge of the heatsink whereby the air can be directed towards the sides and not down to the part. Do you think modifying the duct can take care of this? Any ideas welcome.

Once I get setup again, I plan to use your ideas and publish a modified duct for the 23mm original E3Dv6 heater block. I will also look at modifying the extruder mount to prevent the heatsink fan air from blowing down towards the part. Again, ideas welcome.

Christian,
I've kept the ribs of the original design.
As the round bended shape of the connection is now removed, less air of the cold part cooling fan is deflected to the object.
The design performs well, but I'll need to test it longer across different printed objects.
Note that I'm using the "extended" version and I'm using silicon socks on the E3d heater block.
Attached the STL-file, in case you would be interested in it.
Thanks for sharing your neath design idea !
Cheers,
Peter

Please keep me updated on your results, as I will start working on this version in about a month or two. Also, thanks for the STL, I'll take a look at how you built it.

Hi Christian,
I've modified the extruder for : zesty nimble & LJ12a3-4 probe. The probe & extruder tips line-up in Y and have a small offset in X direction.
STL is attached and tested. You can add it to your repository if you want.
Cheers,
Peter

Peter:

Thanks for the awesome modification! I will be sure to add it when I get setup again, probably September. One question is what is the location of the sensor in relation to the nozzle? More specifically, what is the X and Y coordinates considering the nozzle is: 0,0. I would like to add this information in the description, and I will give you the credit for modifying the STL.

Christian,
Position : X = +30 Y = +2
Cheers, Peter

Fantastic! Excellent! Highly recommended!
I am using the design with the original X carriage, and everything fits together wonderfully.
The BL Touch mount ended up at the exact height necessary, without any shims or adjustments.
The only problem that I am having is that the "Duct Nozzle 1.1" is rather long and low, so it rides VERY close to the bed in the back, just barely clearing the nozzle height. Also, since it is so long and low, it tends to strike the binder clips that I use to hold the glass to the heated bed when the carriage is all the way back.
Would it b possible to modify the "Duct Nozzle 1.1" so that it slopes up in the back, providing more bed clearance? Basically shorten the duct height in the back, while keeping the front at the same height, so that the bottom of the duct rises at an angle. It would solve the binder clip clearance problem, and provide a little more clearance from the bed in case the duct gets slightly pushed down by the cage fan.
I would do the mod myself, but the original is so good that I don't want to poorly recreate the existing duct.
Thanks for the design... I am very very happy that I replaced the original HEVO E3D V6 mount with this one!

Thanks for the comments! I appreciate the feedback.

The back requires some tweaking but all the ducts I have tested and I personally use this design on 4 printers, they snap together nicely. As for your idea, I have a feeling that the flow will be impacted by making the back slimmer, but I'll take a look at modifying the design. Unfortunately, I wont get to it until September due to moving and all my stuff is packed up at the moment. Regardless, I'll send you a duct to try once I modify it.

One thing you can try in the meantime is to change your bed size in software so it does not hit the clips.

I revisited the installation, and was able to improve the rear duct clearance. Took the duct and fan mount out, forced the whole thing together and remounted. Kept popping apart so ended up using epoxy to make them one single unit. It looks to me that they could be printed as one unit without much difficulty.

I will use a reduced printing are in the back until I can find a solution to the binder clip clearance issue.

Thanks for the quick reply and great work!

-Edward

is it possible to get a fusion file or sth like that from the duct for changing it?

I am not sure what "sth like that from the duct" means, but I don't publish files beyond STL files. Let me know what you want (within reason), and I can make the adjustments.

Would this work with the Prezision Piezo Orion?

No, but I plan to design a mount to accommodate the Orion sensor. I currently have the sensor; however, I won’t have time until September to finish it.

Too bad as there are no designs for the new and more precise Orion sensor...

I am using this mount with the bltouch. May you have the marlin configuration for that? I mean the dimensions how far it is away from the nozzle in x/y/z?

I don't have my computer setup now that I am moving, but I pulled this from a previous post. I don't have the Y dimension, but X and Z are there. X = 26 mm, Z = 2.56, and if I had to guess... Y ~ 2 mm. This is something I should have included in the details. Once I finish my move and get setup again, I'll add it. Also, please let me know if this part needs adjustment. I should have everything setup an online in September.

Also do you use a spacer between the bltouch and the mount? Because when I mounted it without a spacer it ran into my heatbed.

I have not tested the BLTouch design fully, so your comments are welcome. I didn’t use a spacer. Post a few pictures so I can get a better idea on how to adjust the model.

Had to put two M3 Nuts between it.

Looks like I need to adjust the mount a bit. I was thinking of three options:

  1. Place a small spring (pen type) to take up the space, then place currently used by the M3 nuts with the bolt started from the bottom (head will be near the BLTouch) and use the plastic mount to grab the threads. This will allow for small adjustment, but some modifications might still be needed.

  2. Adjust the mount to have it a fixed height, thus no need for a spacer.

  3. Redesign it so it can be z-height adjustable.

What do you think?

Probably 2nd is the easiest to do. Though the 3rd doesn't sound bad either but might be a bit tricky.

What I thought of is maybe to add several adjusting platforms that can be put between the bltouch and the bltouch mount. Or maybe easier just different bltouch mounts that people can choose from. Because it could be that the real bltouch and the clones are slightly different.

Was the BLTouch mount ever updated? It doesn't look like as it shows a date of 10/31/17. Guess that means I will have to use M3 nuts under mine.

No, I never updated it, but I will tonight, and upload the file here in the comments section for now. Just to make sure, you also need it two m3 nut widths lower?

Only 1 M3 width lower. We added one for each bolt. You may want check the back hole. Mine was right on the edge and the bolt went through.

I added 2.4 mm to the mount. As for the back hole, there isn't much I can do other than re-design it, which I don't have time now to look into it. There is not much material there, but that is due to trying to keep the sensor as close to the hotend as possible. I also don't know how this works with the newer ducts that I designed.

The one thing that I saw so far that doesn't 100% work with a genuine e3d v6 is that even though the hotend is turned backside (long part to the front) it still has too much contact with the middle part of the cooling part and thus deforming it if printing PETG. At least for me it is a problem. Not sure if I used the wrong platform cooling part. I printed out the 2.1.x part.

This is what I mean for the hotend "coliding" with the printed part and thus heating it up while printing and deforming it slightly.

Thanks for the image. If possible, measure the heat block and I will compare it to what I have already modeled. Also, when I finish my move and setup my computer again, I'll make a duct for larger heat blocks/genuine E3D blocks. In your opinion, how much more space do you think is sufficient?

The block itself is 2,5cm long and roughly 1cm wide. The wide is not the problem. The length is. I would assume 0.2 to max 0.5 more space between heater block and build fan should be enough. It is really not much that is necessary. Though I am not sure how much is needed to have enough space so no deformation is happening ^^.

I mainly use the clones, but I also have a genuine E3D heatblock and with a sock it should be enough. If not, I can adjust the model. Post a few pics.

Sorry, took me some time to find time to build it out. But I hope you can clearly see where and roughly how far the heatblock (with sock) burned into the PETG.

Thanks for the images. I will adjust the duct for a larger heatblock; however, I wont be able to get to this until September. If possible, can I send you an updated STL and could you test it first prior to adding it to the files?

Sure. Send it to me and I will try it out prior.

Hey there,

Great job!

I'm currently printing and kinda confused with the duct nozzle.

I'm using the X_Carriage2.1 with PP-_Z_Nimble_Extruder_Mount_1.0 for mountain my zesty, piezo and e3d direct drive.

Which nozzle should I go with? Duct_Nozzle_2.1 or Duct_2.1 and what's the difference in-between those two?

Thanks!

It is up to you, but if you look closely you can see one is designed for flow directly towards the nozzle and the other has airflow directed downward. Either one works, but if you want to ensure more cooling directly towards the nozzle, then use the Duct Nozzle version.

Did anyone build this model using the MPX connector? Can anyone post picture how the connector is soldered and connected where?

You should be able to see this in the Precision Piezo Test Results document (files section) as there are several images with the connectors attached.

I printed out the Zesty Nible PP mount but my piezo pp20 does not fit the mount. the screw holes are to close to each other.
i have the pp20 1.1

What is the spacing of the screw holes? I don't have that circuit board, but someone else confirmed it fit. I can adjust and re-upload the file, or make separate files if the circuit boards differ.

The spacing on the one i have is 23,8mm from center to center.
I cant say if its just mine or if they changed it from the last itteration.

I updated the files to accommodate variations in PCB mounting all mounts for the PP PCB. Thanks for the feedback.

Hi Christian,
I finally started with testing.
I'm using an E3d without a sock. (also ordered)
I have the impression that the HOT END cooler is also cooling the heater.
I'm using a 40mm silent fan, mounted in the front. (like on your drawings)
The cold air is blown to the back and due to the design of the fanduck, guided to the heater bloc.
I'm planning to modify the fanduck and foresee a small standing edge at the backside.
Cheers,
Peter

Peter:

One option would be to reverse the direction of the fan, then just design a shroud for the fan to prevent any air blowing on the part. I think this would be easier. Otherwise, if you want, I can adjust the duct. Show me a sketch.

Any chance of a chimera option?

At this point, no, since I don't have time to design one. I have considered it, but the option to have one hotend seems to be the preferred approach. Less issues with height mismatch, leaking extruder, etc. I think using Prusa's new multi-material option with one extruder will be the way to go in the future. Just my thoughts.

I agree if you were printing with similar materials. One of the biggest reasons for having dual is to print with a soluble support of some sort. No amount of Prusa Multi-Material, Mosiac, Cyclops will ever do a good job in that environment.

I'd be happy to model/remix it, if you release any of the files!

if you get around to make a chimera version send me a message i really want one aswell :)
im using the IR sensor atm on my HEVO but im having issues with the PEI sheet on the bed so i thought a piezo was the way forward :)

I'll take a look at a Chimera version later in the year. At this point, I don't have the bandwidth to start that design. Fall timeframe. I'll let you know.

Hello, just checking in as I'm looking to start a Hevo Build and a Dual Nimble - Piezo leveling Chimera with dual volcano X carriage was something that really interests me, however no one seems to have done the /whole/ build.. I see nimble chimeras or piezo chimera, but nothing that incorporates everything.
Was wondering if you ended up having a chance to look into it?
Thanks ! :)

Sorry, I never had the time to start down that path, plus I don’t have the parts to test it. That would be one busy hotend and a bit challenging to setup, but doable. If I were just starting, I would consider setting up one hotend, tweak, adjust, and get it printing well, then maybe tackle something more complicated like dual hotends. Just an idea.

Awesome thanks alot :D
i do plan at some point to use the zesty extruder but i guess you always make them compatible with that :)

Ok it might just be me.
But what piezo disc is the nimble Mount designed for ? The 20mm or the 27mm one ?

It is designed for the 20mm disk.

Hi Christian,

I've been testing with the extruder with Smoothieware, inductive sensor and aluminium buildplate (400x400).
The problem I have is that the flatness of the buildplate differ +-600um. With my 1ste HEVO build using Marlin & standard extruder I did,'t have a problem with the fact the that buildplate isn't 100% flat.
The issue I'm facing is that the nozzle-probe distance is very far from each other. (72mm Y / 25mm X). In Marlin I can compensate this with the probe-offset. However, in Smoothieware the idea behind "probe-offset" is different. To make the story short : "the probe area differs to much in level compared to the nozzle height".
So I've modified the probe position closer to the nozzle, so I more or less probe the position used by the nozzle afterwards.
Could you modify the design accordingly ?
There is an upgrade available where the extruder clamp and sensor clamp are decoupled from each other. Meaning, if you unmount the E3D, the sensor is still screwed to the carriage.
Cheers, Peter

This is what I mean. I'm still waiting for the piezo to arrive.
Cheers, Peter

Peter:

Sorry for the late reply, trying to catch up on things after my travel. I thought about your comments, and I came up with the attached option. It basically clamps to the side using the existing electrical cover. Let me know what you think and if you could test it for me. I will upload the file for you to test. The only issue is I would need to use a set screw to secure it since the nuts are too big for the top.

Hi Christian,
I had the same idea but found that mounting the clamp at the back wasn't stiff enough. And as you said the probe need a screw for securing, whereas with the original screw you can fit it very tide.
As I'm waiting for the piezo to arrive, this is only a temporally solution so I can proceed with testing my build.
Cheers, Peter

Is the fanduct made to work fine with the piezo heatsink part? I have my hotend mounted on your design, but I can't seem to get the fanduct to fit. I have the heat block as close to the heatsink as possible (not a good thing?), and the fanduct barely fits. I usually have a silicone sock on my hotend, and with it on there is no way to get the fanduct fitted without it beeing lower than the nozzle itself, and the heatblock comes in contact with the fanduct. Any ideas?

I am not sure exactly what doesn't fit, but I'll take a shot at answering your question. The fan duct should fit with the piezo design, I am using it now on my machine. If the heat block is lower, then maybe your heat block is larger? I am not sure. I am using clone blocks and heatsinks, but there should be enough room for an E3D version as well. If not, than I can adjust the design. Send some pictures so I can clearly see where it does not fit.

Thank you for your reply!

I am using an original E3D V6 heatblock, maybe its bigger?

Here is a few pictures of how it looks now: https://imgur.com/a/Qab6o

I can't get the fanduct to fit in its slot as it crashes with the heatblock. You can see that the screw mounts on the fanduct does not reach up to the screw holes on the extruder mount, and would be even more of a gap with the silicone sock on. Ideally I would have the heatblock further away from the heatsink(in the picture it is as close as it can be). Maybe it would be possible to shorten the duct where the heatblock crashes, or would that affect the airflow too much?

I see what you are talking about. I mounted an E3D heatblock that was 23mm long, 16 mm wide, and 11.5 mm high. It is close, but it should work; however, for you, I would need to modify the duct. Take a minute and measure your heatblock and I will adjust the duct to fit it.

The heatblock is 23.05mm long, 16.05mm wide and 11.26mm high, without the silicone sock. Thank you for taking time to modify it! :)

Your heatblock dimensions are very close to mine, so I don't think it is that part. How long is the heatsink? I think that might be the problem. What is the length? I am using a genuine E3D and it is 43mm long.

Also, I looked at you images closer, please make sure the piezo sensor is installed correctly and the mounts should be flush at the top and bottom.

Would I have to take the whole hotend apart to meassure it? I meassured 30.59mm from the heatblock and up to where the heatsink mount is.

Sorry for the late reply, just got back from travel.

Take a look at the image. I am referring to the 42.7mm length of the hotend heatsink. Also, if you can, send some pictures of your whole setup because I think something else is not fitting correctly. Based on what you told me and the dimensions of the heat block, if the heatsink is about the same length (~43mm), then something else is wrong since I have the exact setup and everything fits.

Hi, I'm using the precision piezo version. Great design! However, I am thinking of upgrading my HEVO to a Zesty Nimble Sidewinder (https://zesty.tech/collections/the-nimble/products/sidewinder?variant=36868095617) and would love to have a version of this mount for it. Do you have any plans for it? This thing (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2680032) might help. Thanks for all your work!

Basic mount for a Nimble Sidewinder

Sure, I can develop this version of the mount. I would just ask that you test it for me since I don't want to only design a mount without someone confirming it all works. Let me know when you get it, and I'll draw it up. Looks easier than the other Nimble mount.

Thanks a lot for that, Vergienc! I have just ordered it and will let you know as soon as I get it.

I'll start to work on it and send you something to test. I'll upload it here. To be clear, you are interested in the Precision Piezo version with the Zesty Nimble Sidewinder, right?

Take a look. This is the best I can do to clear all the bolts for the piezo disk. The mount is rotated 45 degrees, although maybe not ideal, I think it will work. Thoughts?

The other option is to redesign the entire piezo mount, which would take some time.

Yes, this might work! Thanks! Wire management will be a little more complicated, though...
If you can send me the STL, i can try to print it and I will let you know.
Thank you very much again! This is true public service :)
Have a great day!

Try to print this and let me know if it fits. Also, I tried to create a wire mount, but not sure if that design is the best.

Hi vergienc, sorry for the delay, but my Sidewinder only arrived yesterday... I already tested everything and it works very well! The wire mount actually works better than the "normal" one. The only things that are slightly offset are the mounting mounts for the piezo PCB (at least for mine). I have a version 1.1 original board from Precision Piezo and the spacing of the mounting points is not quite right. Anyway, I can still fix the board with only one screw. Thank you very much for you work! Let me know if I can buy you a beer or something!

Glad things worked out. I adjusted the file to accommodate a variation in circuit board layout.and updated my page to include this new mount. I elongated the mounting holes, which should be sufficient. If you can, upload an image under things made, that would be helpful for others, myself included, to see how it mounts.

Great! I will try it and let you know how it goes. Thanks a lot!

Yes, that is it. My precision piezo PCB is the one that mounts on the front. Thanks!

I would like to have this for the 15mm outer diameter bearing aswell, thanks!

Sure, its uploaded as X Carriage 2.1.3

Great design!

I must be missing something obvious, possibly 'zip-ties' is the answer ;o)

Printed out the X_carriage_2.1 and the corresponding clamp - how do you secure the clamp to the carriage? I don't see any space/place for any bolts etc

I have not modified it completely for bolts yet. I stayed with the brass inserts for the clamps and the fan mount.

Doh, of course - i see that now - hence the size of the recess

May take a shot at it myself, if i get chance i will let you know

Thanks again

Good work on the modification! I took a shot at it tonight and modified the x-carriage, but it does not quite fit, which is what I suspected before. I need to slide the nut in further, then adjust the holes for the clamp as well. It is very close, as you can see from the picture. I also placed the nut 3mm from the top, maybe if I used 2mm, it would work. How far down did you place the nut from the top?

Comments deleted.

Thanks for the help. The new x carriages are uploaded.

Anytime, thanks for the great work!

Comments deleted.

what is the cooling of the head? Do not you use a fan separately?

I am not sure what you mean, but for possible clarification, here is an image of the mount with all fans.

Thank you for the picture you betrayed everything. I got the answer to my question.

Hi,

I can't tell from the drawings/pictures where your piezo mount is? Is it for a "drilled" piezo that is mounted horizontally and has the filament and bowden going through the centre of it or is the piezo disc mounted vertically between the hot-end and the carriage?

Everything I designed is for the drilled piezo disk that is placed between the hotend cooler mount and extruder mount.

I did see someone designed one between the carriage and extruder mount, not sure how well it works though.

Hi,

Neath design, weight is also balanced around X-axis.
I'm using : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2546995 as x-carriage.
Hence, I had to make the fan duck design 3.5mm longer at the bottom. (see picture)
Maybe an idea to either modify and add the part or make the bottom of the fan duck design modular to be compatible with other x-carriages lengths.
Cheers,
Peter

PS: I've build HEVO400, 1 year ago : https://www.thingiverse.com/make:354798
Now HEVO400 is printing a HEVO402 with lots of improvements.... photos TBC

HyperCube Evolution
by VAEin3D

Thanks for the comments. Ironically I am currently designing a similar x-carriage to be used in my setup. I hope to finish it in the next day or so. If you asked, I would have extended the duct and uploaded it. :)

That's great.
Another thing I'm puzzled with is the supports.
The fan duck prints best and is strongest when printing upside. Like it's default loaded.
However, the internal support are very difficult to remove.
Maybe another idea the design the fan duck in 2 pieces ?
In order to modify my print, I've cut it in the middle. Support was very easy removable. An may not be needed of the circle towards the fan wouldn't be part of it. See picture above for the cut.
Cheers,
Peter

I just uploaded a 19mm bearing size x-carriage to be used with this assembly. From your last comment, if you want an extended duct version specifically for your assembly, let me know the difference in length, and I can upload the STL here. Also, did you try printing with out supports? It should work.

For my x-carriage, the fan duck should be 3.0mm longer compared to original. Thanks in advance for modifying and uploading it. Cheers, Peter

Thanks Christopher, I'll check once I'll proceed with my build.
Cheers,
Peter

I have printed the fan duct in PETG many times during the testing phase and for other printers I built, but I have never used supports. The bridging is short enough. Do you really need supports when you print the duct?

I can confirm you can print it without support.
Cheers, Peter

Comments deleted.

I could really use the design for the nimble+piezo, however the x carriage still relies on brass inserts. Do you have any plans on making an x carriage with all m3 nuts?

Sure, it was something I was thinking about as well. Would you be able to print and test it to make sure it works? If so, I will send you the file.

Sure, be glad to

Ok, here you go. Once you can confirm it works, I'll remove this file and place it into the files section.

Crap, looking at the print I saw your mount is for 8mm rods...I have 10mm rods with LM10LUU bearings, so the x carriage won't work for my setup.

Although I don't have it completely without brass inserts, I just uploaded a version that will hold 19mm bearings. The brass inserts are only for the belt clamps and fan mount. Looking into removing all brass inserts, just didn't finish yet.

Sorry to hear that. If you at least printed enough to check the spacing of the nuts, that would be helpful. I can then add it to the list.

Also, I'll look into modifying it for those bearings, but it would be next week. My initial thoughts are that it could work, but then I would need to lengthen the duct by the amount required for those bearings, which is easy.

I know there are other x-carriages out there that might work better for you, just not sure of the compatibility with the rest of my parts.

Sorry, I didn't finish the print as I was using my last spool of petg and there's not much left.

does this use captured nuts?

The Precision Piezo hotend mount uses the typical 3mm lock nuts that slide into the part after the print is finished. There are no captured nuts in the sense that you need to print the part, stop to insert nuts, then continue printing.

Hi.
Wich files is for piezo? I dont need to print all of them i think..
Regards
Rickard

Aha, could it bee the PP parts..:-)

I am really curious about the piezo carriage :p ;)

I uploaded the Precision Piezo version.

Looks great!
I assume the duct is for a blower fan? What size fan is it?

It is a blower fan and any 5015 should work.

hello.
I really like your design, can you make holes at the side of the duct, and not from the bottom?

I added the option for the duct to direct airflow towards the nozzle.

What is this software you are using for airflow simulation?