by eckertech, published

ecksbot by eckertech Jul 20, 2012
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ecksbot by eckertech is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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All the STLs required to print an ecksbot.

The ecksbot design is a sturdier and sleeker derivative of the Prusa 2 built on EckerTech innovations and putting a little more Sells Mendel back into the mix, making it a true and evolutionary RepRap.

We do not claim this as our own new design but rather another small step in the evolution of the RepRap hobby printer. It is designed around the concepts and efforts of the RepRap core team and should be considered as an extension of the project.

We would like to thank the RepRap core team for inspiring not just us but the entire RepRap community to design, redesign, innovate and think outside the box. Without the core team none of this would be possible.

Keeping with RepRap tradition the ecksbot is released on the GPL license making this a true RepRap 3D printer.

For more information on how we improved the ecksbot design over the Prusa 2 design please visit, blog.eckertech.com

UPDATE: Added ETC_c-end-idler2-adjuster, NewBearingHousingInner and NewBearingHousingOuter. The new x end has a hole to add a bolt for easy z height adjustments. The new bearing housing requires only acetone for adhesion and fits together better than the old version.


To Build the ecksbot you'll need print the listed files with the quantities listed here http://forum.eckertech.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=118

The complete BOM including electrical and mechanical parts can be found here: http://forum.eckertech.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=118

We also have a complete build manual with step by step instructions for assembling your ecksbot that can be found here: http://forum.eckertech.com/viewforum.php?f=4&sid=0dee0e469d19ddeee94ae8ecdd2140e8

Source files for Solidworks and Step as well as STL's are available on github here:

Eckertech Inc. sells both DIY kits and fully assembled printers here:

For a youtube video of the ecksbot please visit:

Checkout this video of an ecksbot printing a dragon:

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hey, i cant access the build log it says the manual link is unavailable. any help?

For E3D v5 bowden, anyone have found a design for carriage?
I have printed all the pieces, only the carriage have left to be done for my e3d hotent.

can this be extended to a 24 inch build area? im saying can i use the same parts but longer rods making it taller and wider and would it work?

What resolution can this print at? Just curious! Thinking about building one!

Hopefully someday the 2014 model will make it up here ;)

We've added a new X End Idler that has a bolt hole for easier Z height adjustments and a new bearing holder that fits together more nicely than the old version.

what are the differences between this and a regular Prusa?

While I have yet to build a printer I find this one most alluring the only thing I dont really care for are the steppers on top rather than bottom mounted.

We've just finished assembling the Black PLA Ecksbot I posted in "made" a while back. It goes together quite well in PLA, no real issues. I am glad I added some slots for zip-ties to the X carriage though, they were needed. One annoyance is that the extruder idler/body is a bit big, they touch each other before you have the hobbed bolt tight enough, I nearly have the same issue with the red ABS eckstruder I fitted to my Prusa i2.

So after much fiddling, I've come to this conclusion. The Eckstruder isn't compatible with deep cut hobbed bolt, the Arcol Hyenas which are cut down to a 6mm dia cannot be made to work. Shallow cut bolts are OK.

Our hobbed bolt, which we have been using for the past four years and is widely considered the best hobbed bolt on the market, works just fine. So, I would say the Arcol Hyenas is not compatible with the eckstruder. We actually didn't anticipate anyone using such a deeply cut hobbed bolt.

Anyways, you might be able to get away with sanding the idler block down to get the depth you need.

Also, you are welcome to tweak the design to get the idler a little closer. I'll even add the file to our "thing" and give you credit ;)

I finally got round to doing my own take on your extruder idler. I like the extruder design, which is why I use it on my Prusa i2 with my E3D hot end.

About 12 months ago I also built up the eckertech printer whose parts I posted a photo of. My feedback would be:

  • Again the idler vs. extruder is great, very easy to use, until the idler snaps.
  • The printed Y carriage is very floppy, even in rigid PLA, it makes it next to impossible to level the bed. There is really no call for this to be a printed part.
  • Your hot end mounts very flimsily, the nozzle actually moves up and down with retraction and has little bracing in Y.
  • Soldering wire to the Nichrome is asking for trouble, we didn't see a failure but these joints should be crimped.
  • The nozzle itself isn't a great shape, there's no troweling effect at all so surface quality on the sided and top was always very rough, we eventually swapped it for a Mk V J-head.
  • With a fan attached the cool end was sufficiently cooled to prevent jamming, though ooze was on a par with a Mk IV J-head.

Heh, I guess you could say it that way round too. Considered it worth noting to avoid disappointment, as the Arcol is also a revered bolt out there.

I have an Eckstruder which I printed for my Prusa, it uses a medium sort of depth cut and the idler just gives enough room and no more to get tension. If I can modify the idler to open the gap I'll let you know, the hinge might stop me.

I did the conversion myself before you published yours. I changed the bearing housings on the block which came out well, I cleared the inner race and now I can do the bolt up as tight as I like without it binding up at all. I'll push that change back up too if you're interested.

I'm currently trying to build one of these and right now I'm stuck on the X carriage using a Nema 17 motor (48 mm length) that seems to be too large for the X carriage since it is right in the path of the belt. I know this is a derivation from the other repraps and it seems to use the same wades extruder, but do you have any specs on what the size of that extruder stepper motor should be? Do you know of any mods to allow for bigger stepper motors on the extruder? If there is nothing out there I will probably attempt to make my own version for it

Yikes! We didn't anticipate anyone using a motor that big for the extruder. The stepper motor we use is a 63 oz-in, 1.5amp, 1.8 degree/step Nema 17 (37mm in length). This motor provides more than enough power to extrude (it's actually a bigger motor than required)

An added benefit to using this more is that it reduces the carriage weight allowing you to print faster.
Hope this helps.

Thanks, that is very helpful! I'll just find another stepper motor with those specs rather than trying to mod for the bigger motor since as you mentioned the 63 oz-in is more than enough power. Can't wait to see this thing in action, I like the design!

Is this a stylized Prusa? It looks cool, but I don't think it is enogh to change the name of the machine... Its basically a Prusa.

Well then isn’t a Prusa just a cheaped out version of the Sells Mendel? Was that in your view enough to change the name? If you take a closer look you will notice that even though they look similar they are not the same. We started out trying to fix all of design flaws built into the P2 and ended up changing the entire machine. How much of the ecksbot comes from Prusa’s redesign of the Sells Mendel and how much comes directly from the Sells Mendel? This information is available on our blog (http://blog.eckertech.com/?p=118)http://blog.eckertech.com/?p=1....

This design has been put since last May and there are well over 1,000 ecksbot out there in the world to date. I think that the ecksbot has been accepted as its own design.

Prusa named the machine Prusa Mendel, as in "Prusa's version of the Mendel" machine.

Yes and if you actually read our blog you would see we called this an ecksbot Mendel..........................

I did. Still, you call it Ecksbot here.

I published belt clamps for using GT2 belts on an Ecksbot for the anti-timing belt snobs (read: me)  :)

I've been using GT2 belts on my home built Ecksbot with the original clamps with no issue (read: newbie). I have over 200 hours on my printer on a pair of GT2.

I don't suppose I could ply you for a version of your Y-Carriage which is split into pieces and can be printed on a 140mm square bed?

Maybe small brackets could pin it together?

I might try, but my cad skills are amateure at best right now.

I have everything else printed ;)

Argh, that's sounds like a pain in the butt,

Tell you what though, if you promise to take your finished machine back to Brnrd and Crispy and cast on that RepRap forum thread and stuff it up their noses I will send you one for free ;) lol

Deal :)

I have everything else printed :)


Send me a PM with your address through the RepRap forum.

Is it possible to get the .prt solidworks files? I am looking at possibly making one of these and want to make a Bowden extruder mod for one of the Z motor mounts. Would be faster to model off existing part files but I could start from scratch.


Scratch that I started working in SolidWorks and found that you had them on Git after I started. I will post a derivative here in TV if I wind up building off it. But I have them now.

Sounds good.  Let us know if we can help in any way.

I really like how you smoothed and curved the parts.

It makes them look more polished and precise.

At the same time, you made no choices that would make them hard to print. Well played sir.

I may have to print my self an ecksbot...

Wow, thank you so much!

We've created an X-Carriage leveling jig to make it easier to level the ecksbot's x-axis.

Simply place the jig on one of the Y-axis smooth bars with the notched portion of the jig straddling the bar. Next, turn the Z threaded rod closest to the jig to lower the X-axis while swiveling the jig back and forth (by hand) on the smooth bar about half an inch, making sure to not push down on the bar. When the X-axis slightly touches the jig move to the other bar and repeat the process. When both sides are the same height you're x-axis is leveled. You may have to do this a few times to get it just right

This leveling jig could also be used for any reprap x-axis.

I will have to check out that jig. Thanks :)

When I printed the X-carriage, the screw holes on the bottom fell out after I removed it from the hotbed. It seems half of the screwhole is there, but it doesn't come all the way to the bottom of the piece like in the STL file. Will this be an issue or should I start reprinting this piece? 

Well that is a weird one.  It sounds like your fill and infill settings are preventing the holes from being attached to the main object.

What slicing program are you using to slice up your objects?

I was mistaken, these parts are drilled out in the prepping process. I thought they were critical for the structure, turns out they were only supports for the printing.

Reoriented EckerTech_ End_Stop_Holderx3.stl (formally Micro_Switch_Holder.stl), so that it will print on the flat side.

Also, the BarClampx8.stl file has been updated with a bigger smooth rod hole.
The previous hole was a little to tight.

New Bar Clamps fit great, Figures the new file was uploaded less than 12 hours after I finished printing all 8 of the old version!

Reoriented the following files, so that they print on the flat side:


What a wonderfully cleaned up kit. Some of the parts are downright sexy!

I've been having a bit of a problem slicing the Y motor mount. I've been using slic3r v0.9.2 and it keeps complaining and lopping off the motor flange. Any ideas?

BTW thanks for a lovely printer set.

Used the free NetFabb to repair and regenerate the stl, worked great.

Isn't NetFabb great, lol. Slic3r seems to be finky with some of our files. I'm going to spend the day fixing small issues (files not sitting flat, slic3r issues).

Thanks for pointing this one out.

Man that car looks awesome, BTW ! :)

NetFabb is so easy to repair with.  Nice tool.
The car is a legend race car.  I designed the graphics for it and my buddy produced them for me.  It's a 5/8 scale of a '34 Ford sedan.  Only fits one person!  I actually changed it to a '34 Ford coupe this year.  Looks much the same only way sexier!

Looking forward to trying out your new levelling jig.  Good on you!

Hey, definately a fan of the x-ends, much more printable than some.

Are the bearing idler inner/outer's printed with support? As they are pointing upwards in the air in the stl.

Whoops, I didn't even notice that until now. The are supposed to be laying flat. No support is required to print these when they are sitting properly :)

Thanks for pointing that out

Cool, printed flat, came out lovely. Seems to be alot (0.25mm) of clearance between the outer of the bearing it's slot in the inner guide, and the same between the inner race and the outer of the hub. This results in the bearing being able to move quite a bit. Does the glue take up this clearance?

That's odd, when we print them the bearing fits tigthly into the inner guide. We do, however, add a bit of ABS glue but certainly not enough to fill a 0.25mm gap. Which slicing program are you using?

The files do have a tolerance built in because most RepRap machines have "bleed over" i.e. the hole sizes print smaller then the actual file. Just curious, what machine are you using to print the files?

Was printed on an orca 0.43, machine has only been up and running since yesterday, so just checked steps/mm. Was off by approximately 0.15mm over 100mm, which would be 0.03mm over 22mm. Haven't checked esteps yet, but looks very good.

Measuring inner guide with vernier gives 22.29-22.35mm. Could be explained by steps/mm being off, and extruding a bit too little i guess. and also slic3r could have something to do with it.

Will try again after checking esteps.

Just checked again, the inner diamter on the stl is 22.7mm. .7mm seems quite a lot of clearance. Have modified the inner, (hub seems alright as it is) to be 22.4mm. Will print tomorrow, and see what happens.

Trying to print the Ecksbot Y Carriage with the Replicator but, it is bigger than the build platform. Can you possibly skrink it down a bit so it will fit within the build area? Thanks..

I selected the option in ReplicatorG to size to 'Fill Build Space!' This scaled the size down by 0.92. I'm sure that might have an effect on hole alignment for the build platform. We'll see when I get all of the hardware in. I'll be donating two builds to my daughter's science and art department.

Jeremy uploaded Y Cart Replicat...STL. Front to back it measures 135mm so it should fit on your Replicator with a couple of mm to spare.

Yep, the update file works. Thanks for the update. I have been fighting with the fan cowl trying to get it to not fudge the print around the fan mount holes. They seem to be too thin around the outer edges. I finally gave up and will make up some ABS glue to fill in the missing areas. See picture

I hope you haven't printed it yet. You won't be able to fudge the bearing captures enough to make the bearings fit at all. Jeremy says he will see what he can do about modifying the file to shorten it up a bit. It may take a couple of days though, we are extremely busy right now. If my math is right 0.92 looks to be about 135mm, that should leave 5mm at the front and back edges. Will that be OK?

First, great design. Next, is the STL file for the Eckstruder Block correct? The reason I ask is the file looks different from what you have in the instructions for putting together the Eckstruder. More specifically, the hole where the hobbing bolt goes through is closed on one side. This means the instructions don't match up. Am I missing something with the design?

Nevermind, I fixed my stupid and drilled out the plastic in the holes that were filled. I finished printing all of the parts but, I did have a few issues with the fan cowl not printing the edges around the outside of the fan mounting holes. It seems that the edges are too thin and does not layer correctly..at least not on my Replicator.

Hi Everyone,

Our source files are finally available on github at http://github.com/eckertech/Ecksbotgithub.com/eckertech/Ecksbot.

If your have any issues, please let us know.


I think the slot for the M8 nut inside the "X End ..." parts is 1mm to big. I currently try to fix this but I have no luck with my CAD program. Is it possible for you to post a fixed version?

Sorry for the delay in responding. You're right about the 1mm to big. We used the Prusa 2 measurements for this area and didn't realize at the time that it was wrong. Thanks for pointing this out. We appreciate your help here.

We've uploaded new files that fix this problem and have also made source files and updated STL's available on github at http://github.com/eckertech/Ecksbotgithub.com/eckertech/Ecksbot.

Thanks again!

Good work. Some of us love working in solidworks, can you provide those source files also. Thanks

Thanks! :)

Solidworks source files as well as STEP files are on the way. We just need a little time to tidy them up.

Hi Please could you provide a ZIP archive of all the files, this will help us with slow connections. Thanks

Hi, the zip file is located at the bottom of all the STLs. I can't seem to sort the files or else I would move it to the top :)

Will you share the design files?

The source files will be available soon. We designed our objects in Solidworks, which, it seems, most people don't use. So we are trying to see if there is an easy way to convert them accurately to other more common formats.

SolidWorks files would be very much appreciated here. Not a fan of "Humpty Dumpty" (STL only) releases.

I wanted to add zip-tie slots to the X Carriage, fortunately it has few enough faces that it can be imported.PS: Please say the origin isn't in the corner of every part?

The source files (including Solidworks) are available on github http://github.com/eckertech/Ecksbotgithub.com/eckertech/Ecksbot.  We also put the assembly file here as well.

I am in the process of making a printer design of my own.

Many of the parts of this design are nice improvements.

And will certainly be inspirational in my design.

I am particularly fond of the eckstruder ( wades extruder mod )

Intresting, but I d`t know about "Y Carriage.STL": table in RepRap - maximum 200x200 mm...

That Y Carriage is about 180x150mm, too big for my Solidoodle2.