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DIY Filament Dryer / Dehydrator, Tweaked v2.0

by Thingismith, published

DIY Filament Dryer / Dehydrator, Tweaked v2.0 by Thingismith Nov 15, 2017
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Summary

Shortly after creating my first filament dehydrator https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2520281, I found CreativeTools' Filament Spool Holder. My first version worked fine, but I found some shavings on the spool holder when changing filaments, caused by the friction between the holder and the spool. Also, my original holder was only sized for certain spools, not as universal as I had expected. Not a big deal, but I'm a big fan of maximum efficiency...so here you go, a slightly better version than the first.

Here are the links I had in my first version: Dehydrator: https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Dehydrator-Food-Fruit-Dehydration/dp/B01J51JLCC/ref=sr_1_23?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1499306986&sr=1-23&keywords=dehydrator+machine
and Wilton's cake caddy, which I got from Joann http://www.joann.com/cake-caddy/5717806.html#q=cake%2Bcaddy&start=1, for about $10 (don't forget to use your coupons!)

  • I recently found out that Flexzion is currently out of stock on Amazon. I know for sure that the nutrichef PKFD14 (and 14BK) are not the right size for the caddy, but perhaps it will work with Westinghouse http://amzn.to/2Bsxth4 or Rosewill http://amzn.to/2HdMbJj.
  • You could use Dr. Boo's Filament Dryer Spacers https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2797196 with a 5-star Chef Food Dehydrator, but since the walls are not clear, you won't be able to see how much filament you have left.

The only other thing you need is 2 #4 x 5/8" pan head screws. You could use another dehydrator and top, there are suggestions on Tinkerman's original dehydrator page: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1618037

I didn't mess with CreativeTools' duster, the filament is in an enclosed space, not likely to gather dust. My snoot is intended for a PC4-M6 Male Straight Pneumatic Connector. The PTFE tube keeps the air from reaching the filament before it reaches the printer and keeps the filament from crimping.

Special thanks goes to CreativeTools and Tinkerman for sharing their original ideas!

*Tip: Be sure to have the dehydrator sitting on a flat surface with no holes. If there's too much air flow from underneath, it won't get hot and can eventually burn out the heating unit (a resistor I think?).

Print Settings

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

Doesn't Matter

Resolution:

.25 for large objects, .1 for small

Infill:

20%


Notes:

Printed the snoot .1, only with base supports. The threads printed a little warped without full supports, but it still worked for me.

The base and spool will need to fit into each other, I recommend testing your printer with https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2648645 to make sure your calibration is good.

Post-Printing

I threw some dessicant in the dehydrator under the spool, it helps to keep the humidity down when it's off.

I also got a timer to turn on the dehydrator 2 or 3 times a day, 2 hours each, to keep any moisture from coming in. I recommend an electrical, the mechanical ones can be pretty noisy.

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How much did you prints improve with this thing?

Seems like a godsend for nylon prints.

That is an excellent question! To be honest, I've been dehydrating for so long, it's difficult to remember how my prints came out with just my dessicant dry box. But now that I think of it, I think my horizontal compensation is more constant than it was before (less fluctuations in expansion).

The real benefit is in not having to go through the trouble of sticking the filament in the oven when you first take it out of the plastic. I let the dehydrator run for 4-8 hours before running the filament through the printer. Now I don't have to fight over the oven/toaster whenever I feel the need to dehydrate my filaments!

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