Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!


by hlyman, published

LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER V4.1 by hlyman Mar 7, 2014
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This is my current version of a desktop filament extruder which extrudes filament for 3D printers.

Video Link:


The instructions are included in the 41 page Construction Manual download.

There are 30 STL files included in the 7z zip file download. All the white parts shown in the photo are printed with filament extruded from my prior extruder.

A separate download file is the motor tune file for the Kangaroo.

I have also uploaded a few of the the stl files for review.

A BOM is included in the Manual.

I am not making this for sale. Others may be doing that.

Oh, great folks, thanks for the donations on PayPal: [email protected]

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Hi i want to do this machine were is the intrucions

Instructions is the first file in Thing Files. It is a PDF file.
V6 Extruder is less costly, easier to build and gives better diameter tolerance.

See me my Version V6, it is easier to build and less expensive and extrudes better filament.

Hi Lyman,
great work. I am a student on GMI in Malaysia and I want to build this. I have a question: Do you use inch or mm in your drawing?

I use the metric system (mm). You will like my Version 6 (V6) better than V4.1.

Folks, I am not supporting any other Lyman Extruder now except V6 (Lyman Filament Extruder V6). I have three working one for white, one for black and the third for other colors. My last 1 kg spool tested at +/- .03mm. It is vertically mounted and the spool wind system is separate.

Any plans to adapt this to 1.75mm filament and any thoughts on grinding up used/failed parts filament and using it. Thanks

Comments deleted.

Hi ....
I had made this extruder but I am using wiper motor...now I am facing a problem that the wiper motor is getting hotter after 1-2hours..is it okay...or do I have to put some heat shink on it to absorb heat...please help!!!

Having not used a wiper motor since VII I can't help. You might try a cooling fan.

great items! I was looking at building one with Nema17 motors. I have geared and regular. I also noticed you are using a ramps and 2560 board on the V5. Are there any files for this new version so I can start printing what I need for my 17s?

Files will be upload here after I complete the Manual.
I think Nema 17 gear motor may to small for the extruder, fine for the puller rollers.

Folks, for those of you following this thing, this is to advise you that I have just finished making the first video of the new extruder called the Lyman/Mulier Filament Extruder V5. Filip Mulier has contributed the filament sensor, the Marlin coding and other things to the invention. The link to the video is:
Now I will start on the Manual for publication.

Just a quick comment to those not too web-savvy, the proper URL is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vL9zDOdRqBo

Hugh, the motor you are using to drive the auger has a torque rating of 30 KG-cm, (26 ft-in / 2.17 ft-lb). Do you have a feel for how much torque is actually needed to turn the auger?

No I don't know how to calculate torque other than trial and error. V5 Extruder using a Nema 23 stepper motor has a torque rating of 150 http://KG.cmKG.cm.

Firstly, thank you so much for all of your hard work paving the way for those of us wanting to build a filament extruder. We are building this for a 3d printing class at Missouri Western State University. We are trying to locate the . stl files for the fan brackets and electronics box. We have searched high and low to no avail. Your help would be greatly appreciated!

Did you check the "LYMAN_FIL_EXTR_4.1_STL_FILES.7z" zip file within the zip file you downloaded as There are 30 STL files included in the this file. You will need 7z.zip to extract this file http://www.7-zip.org/http://www.7-zip.org/

Hi... Mr Lyman do you have any eta for the V5 Filament extruder drawings? I know you have said earlier that you had it on test phase and you would hope to publish it around May...
For the electronics does the V5 have lots of new sensors what need to be hand made?

hi Mr Lyman, first of all i want to congratulate you for your great job!! i have a question how big should the gap between the rollers should be so that they dont end up crushing the filament? Should i leave the surface from the rollers flat or should i try to give the surface the shape of the filament? i hope you understand what i mean! and thanks for your time

There is no gap between the rollers. The top roller is pressed against the bottom roller with a 1" spring. The filament is hard when it enters the roller and does not crush.

After I seeing the video, I can only tell: Mr Lyman, you are a genius!

Well, thanks.

Hi: I'm new here and to plastic extrusion... I'd like to ask a technical question- I'm building a home-brew extruder, the feed screw and chamber have been selected based on the Filabot Wee filament extruder. When the feed screw is in the chamber is it allowed to touch or ride on the chamber wall? I apologize if this is not the place to ask this question. Thanks-

The feed screw should be able to turn free with your hand. As one of my screws (auger bit) is not straight it probably touches the chamber as it rotates under pressure as the end of my nozzle wobbles a tiny bit. Just mic your nipple for the dimension, I did.

I think it's amazing you are doing this. Once the cost can be pushed down to make these things and someone finds the right chemical or plastic to mix with PTFE it might just be a solution to the huge plastic polution that has been going on for a significant amount of years.
Thank you so much for making this an open project and sharing your plans rather then having chosen for it being a closed/private development.

Sneak peek at our Kickstarter project featuring the Legacy filament extruder based on Hugh Lyman's design. We will be sending him a donation for every extruder that is purchased through this campaign. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lizhavlin/931234820?token=b04cde69https://www.kickstarter.com/pr...

Looks awesome! When are we going to see it "live"? Can't wait :)

hi mr lyman here in spain we are trying a v5 without lcd are you using nema 23 stepper motor for the extruder? which driver are you using tb6560 maybe? which sensor are you using for the meassurement of the filament diameter? thx. if you need help with the firmware we could give you a hand

Sorry for the delay in replying. I have been away fishing.
See my comment reply to anthonywebb's comment below.

Dear Mr. Lyman! It will be extremely cool if the stepper motors in the feature version will be with a 3D printed planetary or cycloidal reducer. :)
I have a question - Do you know how much of motor torque is required for turning the screw? Will it be a metric version of the device (for the nozzle - I found that it's very hard to convert the required hole diameter for the metric bids)? I can't wait for the new version, with stepper motors and Ramps and I will build your extruder (because Ramps with stepper motors is the configuration that I can use in my region)!
Best regards and keep the good work!

V5 will have stepper motors and
controlled by UNO and an LCD, this eliminating the Sabertooth. It will be
ready for testing as soon as the firmware is finished. The LCD will show,
Average, Max and Min filament diameter, as well and meters extruded. All
settings will be done with the LCD.
Hugh Lyman

If you need any help on the firmware side of things I am happy jump in and contribute. I dont yet have an extruder built yet, but am targeting V5 as my first build once instructions are available. Reach out if I can be of any help, and thank you for all your work!

Thanks for your offer to help.
Filip Mulier is designing the firmware and it is close to being competed. He published the filament sensor which is being used in the V5 extruder.
The Marlin coding can be download from the following link:
We each have a V5 extruder running and are in the testing stage now. Hope to publish it by the end of May.

Hugh, first of all thank you for your design and the comprehensive documentation you have produced; because its very helpful for those of us that are trying to make a filament extruder.
I've been studying the drawings and the specifications and I've come up with a question: If the inner diameter of the pipes used in the extruder barrel is 0.622 inches (info from the McMaster Carr web), and the auger nominal diameter is 5/8 = 0.625 inches, how can the auger fit into the pipe? Is it actually a bit smaller? How much?
Thank you very much.

A 5/8 auger bit is only 5/8" at the end, the rest is about 0.60". Also I drill the pipe with a 5/8".

dear mr Lyman. I want to ask you about auger and pipe. In my local, only have DN15 pipe and auger bit 14 or 16mm. Can i use it? Auger 14mm with DN15 pipe?

About level wind base again. There is a shaft there that you hold filament guide .Is this shaft voluted, so that filament guide move from one side to the other and bundle filament next by next to pulley ????If yes, how filament guide is going back?? I cannot find a way to do this . And if there is not voluted shaft,what is the meaning of filament guide .
Is there any way to bundle filament next by next so that not be addled. And at least , next version what would be the major improvments.
Keep on good work .Greeting from Greece

The filament guide is controlled by the pawl as it moves along the voluted shaft. The shaft is voluted in both directions and at the end of the travel the shaft turns the pawl to start back. I am now making one with a printed shaft 16mm in diameter.

The shaft is a worm shaft from a fishing reel. Not really needed if you are extruding 3mm. It is nice for 1.75mm filament. I am not now using it as I extrude 3mm.
Next Version 5.0 major changes will be an LCD to control Ramps with Stepper Gear Motors and filament diameter Sensor, if it works. Filip Mulier, who published the filament sensor is developing the controls.

I noticed that the line guide pawl part number is the same as the worm shaft in the part list. What is the line pawl part number. thanks again for the great work!!!

The correct PAWL # is 122-0601.
The level wind assembly is not critical to the spool winding. I have extruded many spools without it, but it does allow more filament to accumulate on the spool.

I am nearly done with my build and was wondering what the situation with the Kangaroos potentiometers is? From the schematic it appears that you remove potentiometer 2 and solder the leads from external pot to it. The documentation for the Kangaroo indicated that both potentiometers couldbe placed in the boards top ports so I don’t fully understand why one appears to be wired straight to the potentiometer, and figured I ought to understand before I potentially destroyed the board.

First I would like to thank you for sharing your work on this. Second, I was wondering if you have designs for the Lyman Pellet Dryer? I haven't been able to find them. Or, if the designs are not available, could you tell me the specs or capacity for the space heater? Thanks!

The pellet dryer is not yet published. To busy with V5 extruder. It will be published when I have time. the space heater is small and one I used to use in a motor home. I have no specs.

Also... the band heater is the good old one from the v1 extruder, 150W?

Please be careful with 150w heaters. In the event of sensor or controller failure, they can easily reach 300C+, resulting in potentially harmful thermal decomposition of a polymer.

Right, except V1 was larger dia. I now use a 1" dia.

Bravo again!
i liked the pellet dryer idea!
i am tired of baking the in the oven...
One question though..
what is the PID setting of your temp controller??

Anywhere from 180C to 210C. What ever works.

Have you tested a vertical design between the extruder assembly and puller roller assembly? I'm interested in building a vertical orientation, but keeping most of your other design and would like to know if you're already familiar with pitfalls related to the vertical configuration. BTW...I would like to thank you for your excellent efforts in the development of the 3D printer filament extruder designs. I hope that you will continue to further these developments and others related to the open source designs helping the world to reduce, reuse, & recycle plastic everywhere.

I did a small vertical extruder that fit on my 3D printer. It extruded fine and I stopped there as I am not capable of redesigning the firmware. So, I think you can do a vertical design, but make it so it will also work in a horizontal position. You may wish to wait till I get the V5 version done. If it works it will have some different electronics and motors. Also I am testing a resizing die assembly.
And, thanks for the donation.

I wasn't entirely sure what a resizing die assembly was (still a 3D noob), so I Googled it, and the first entry is a Patent ( http://www.google.com/patents/US8459163http://www.google.com/patents/... ). I'm not sure how this will affect V5, but keep up the good work! I will likely build one when I get my printer in May :)

Thank you very much thanks
Your work is awesome
Wishing Happiness and Health

Question about the fan cooling the freshly extruded filament:

Is the rate of extrusion limited by how quickly the filament can be cooled? If that is the case, would it be feasible to create a cooling region in the space between where the current fan is now and the rollers with a peltier cooled tunnel with a fan to circulate chilled air?

I'm wondering if the filament can be cooled quickly, if the rate of extrusion can be increased?

Right now I am extruding 3mm filament at a rate of 22" +/- per minute. The fan cools the filament fine at the spacing I am using. You can do anything you want with the design. So trial and error again.

Mr. Lyman, Firstly, thank you so much for the hard work that went into designing this. I work in a lab where we are developing custom polymers for use in filaments in our projects, and the fact that there is an existing design for an extruder has saved me considerable time.

I was wondering though whether the spacing between the fan, the puller and the roller wheel is fixed by any constraint other than the location of the electronics box? I was planning to build a somewhat taller and more compact version with a long electronics box/panel under the mechanical workings as I need to fit the system into a fume hood for some of the substances I intend to work with, and wanted to make sure that there was not anything I had failed to consider before I started printing out my part variations.

The only thing to keep in mind with the distance from the fan to the puller rollers is that the filament needs to be cool enough to go through the rollers without the roller crushing the filament. I think is should 10 t0 11 inches. There again I do it all by trial & error.

The first is to thank Mr. Lyman all your work. For me it is an idol that surprises me again and again. Wear weeks studying their draft extruder filament from V1 to V4 latter. But in my country between millimeters is used (instead of inches) and language, I'm a bit lost.
I can not see or understand that the internal diameter must be black iron Nipple. The Auger Bit is always 5/8" which corresponds to 15.88 millimeters. Reviews diameter 16mm Auger Bit I get?
What should be inside measurement between Auger Bit and black iron Nipple?
Please, I hope I can help. It's the only thing I do not understand.
Thank you very much and best regards.

The auger bit I use does not fit correctly in the 1/2" nipple. I first drill out the nipple with a 5/8" drill bit. Then I use a dremel with a flex attachment and a grinding bit that fits in the nipple. I grind down the nipple weld joint in the nipple till the auger turns nice and free. Remember that a 5/8"auger bit is only 5/8" in diameter at the end. After the end is cut off you find it is less. Hope this helps.

A clearance fit of 100-500 microns is ideal, and a fit go 500-1000 microns is acceptable. Beyond that and you'll see extrusion speed decrease.

Thank you very much elmoret.
I find black iron material.Can be manufactured in stainless steel?
A greeting.

As I am now working on a new version 5, research and development is exhausting my funds. I would be excited if you folks that like this work could donate a small amount to: [email protected] on PayPal. Anyway thanks for your interest.

Mr. Lyman, I created an account just so I could thank you for sharing your work. I've been following the work you've been doing (along with 3D printing in general) and projects like this have helped convince me to get into 3D printing; my first 3D printer arrived last week. Thank you again!

Thanks for your comment, it is nice that folks like you give thanks.

The extruder is now running, so I measured the amp draw with a Fluke Meter and it showed a maximum draw of 1.4 amps at 115V.

One omission has been pointed out to me on the BOM. I have uploaded R1 revision of the BOM and the item omitted is highlighted in yellow. Item 1B Dwg A10, page 40 in the manual.
Further, if your power is 220V you will need a 220V heat band. The heat band I use also comes in 220V from the same supplier. The PID will handle up to 260V and the Power Supply should have a switch for 220V use.

Awesome as always! Thank you for all of your great work on this.

Did it end up being cheaper or quicker/easier to build than the last one? Did you prefer making it in wood or filament? Did you buy new parts or cannibalize the old one?

A little of all. Version 4.1 with all filament parts was cheaper for me as filament cost me less than $3 per lb. and was extruded from V4 (shown in video) extruder which is the same as V4.1 but with wood electronics box and spool holder.
I cannibalized the prior one and changed a few parts. You will need a 3D printer with a 12x10 inch bed to print the box or you need a laser cutter to make the wood box and spool holder as shown. But, make them anyway you can.

Thanks for indicating the minimum build platform size! Love that you've converted so much of the system into printed parts. Will have to explore this in the near future.

Looks good. I like the printed electronics box.