All In One 3D Printer test

by majda107, published

All In One 3D Printer test by majda107 Nov 19, 2017
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Checkout new MINI version of this 3D printer test!

!UPDATE! (25.02.2018 1:28 CZ time)

  • I was notified (big thanks to Craven112) about one small issue with my 3D design so I decided to fix it! The issue was "0.5mm diameter" text, which was meant to be "1.0mm diameter" text. Also, the hole test got a little mistake, the "8mm" hole was actually 9 mm in the diameter. Now everything should be fixed in "3D printer test fixed (3nd gen).stl" file.

  • I've also changed rotation of the model, so now it should be in the correct position :-).

I decided to design All In One 3D Printer test, so here it is. This test includes : support test, scale test, overhang test, hole test, diameter test and bridging test. Print this with 100% Infill without supports.

!NOTE! : If you are using Cura and you are experiencing missing text issue, be sure to enable "use thin wall" setting! (big thanks to CoreyNach for this!)

We've just got over 5k likes border, THANK YOU ALL!!!!

If you like me design, feel free to tip me :-)

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Oh this looks excellent, will print in due time!


Don’t forget to upload photos into “made” section then!

Marián Trpkoš.

YES! ive been looking for a test like this im going to print this on my anet a8

I’ve ordered Anet A8 5 days ago, I am awaiting it every day! I’d really appreciate if you can put your 3d printout to the “made” section then.


Marián :-).

ok i can let me tell you its very hard at the start but if you install a mosfet and new psu (for safety) hope you like your anet a8 like me!

Just curious.. What is the mosfet controlling (I assume in place of an underrated transistor, but for which device--the hotend?) ?

it can happen at any temp bc its still putting the same power but this is what it does a MOSFET is like a voltage-controlled switch. To be more precise, an N-channel enhancement type MOSFET is like an infinite resistance when the gate-to-source voltage is zero, and turns into a very low resistance when the gate-to-source voltage is a few volts positive.Apr 19, 2012 its for the heat bed (the heat bed uses the most power) but it can be used for the hot end too. here is how to install it https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet here is what you NEED to buy https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK also i would buy a new psu and crimps

Yeah, you are right!

I've ordered mosfet few hours ago, I should get it in about 4 days! My connector isn't hot so it's okay, but security is on first place!
Thanks for helping out other people here!

Marián Trpkoš :-).

From what I know, Mosfet is just for safety. If you'll put your bed to high temperatures, you are risking burn of the heated bed. I'll order mosfet soon, I don't need it now because I am using only 50C at my bed, because I am printing PLA - of course!

Mosfet can be used to both - bed and extruder, but bed is more important. There are actually folks who are getting warm connectors when not using mosfets. It seems OK to me, maybe because I've got the "newest" A8 board.

Marián Trpkoš.

I saw this question before, but its answer is not right. Has anyone else had trouble with the "extruded" text in this print actually showing up when slicing with Cura (3.2.1).

I completed this print, and all the actual tests did pretty well on my printer (despite a bit of warping on my base due to me experimenting with a lower bed temp)... All measurements of the various things are within .02-.15 tolerance, which i think is good enough (and some imperfections may have todo with my cheap digital calipers. The overhangs printed well, with only the 80% being imperfect (the overhang itself is actually ok, with only some dropping, but the 80% is harder to read)...

HOWEVER, the only problem is none of the extruded text (10mm, 20mm, 30mm, etc) printed. To be clear, all the void text (anything cut into the model) printed, but all text extruded out of the model didn't.

I did see Majda mention extrusion rate, etc... This is NOT the issue. It's not the text printing badly, it's literally blank, other than a few dots. This is CLEARLY an issue in the Cura slicer's gcode. Attached are two pictures. One is the solid view of the model, where you clearly see the solid model DOES have extruded text, but the second picture is the "layer view" after slicing... I show the total top layer, and you can see all the extruded text is simply GONE after Cure slices it... Anyone know why this is? Is there a Cura setting I need to tweak? I tried even dropping to .2mm line width in cure (not that I could print that), and .2 wall thickness, just in case the text is too thin unless cura uses thin lines, but that didn't help.... Anyway, I do know for a fact the missing text isn't a printer thing... it's in Cura's slicing... but I can't figure out why slicing is killing that text.

Hey CoreyNach!

I really have to thank you for the info, I’ve actually never used Cura - because I can’t (my only printer is CubePro locked on its slicer). People who were asking me haven’t told me that they use Cura (at least not all of them) so I really couldn’t help them more than just asking for a slicer and telling them to try to decrease extrusion rate (because I thought that the plastic is maybe spilling over the text because of high temperature or over-extrusion).

It’s really good to know that Cura has this issue, I really appreciate your comment! You may try to report this problem to Cura developers!

Thanks for posting!!!!!!!!!!!

Yours faithfully,
Marián ;-).

No problem. I believe Cura is actually trying to do it's job. It is sensing the text is too thin for the line width and nozzle settings, so it just doesn't even try to slice it. If I pump the model up to 200%, and then slice again, then Cura DOES produce gcode with actual extruded text (but I don't really want to print that big, and the text that you see is really thin).

Strangely though, even if I set my line width and wall thickness setting extremely low (.06mm line width, .1mm wall thickness)--so low that the printer wouldn't be able to do it--Cura won't slice that extruded text at 100% model size. This is strange to me because if the reason Cura is not showing the text after slicing really is to account for printer settings, me making the line size that low should allow it.

In any case, this seems a Cura problem. The gcode it generates for the average printer with a .4mm nozzle simply erases the extruded text that is clearly in the model. I will try another slicer just to experiment. BTW, included the sliced view of the model at 200%, where Cura DOES including the text even in the sliced view...

Also, forgot to mention. Great model... nice to have all the benchmarking tests in one place. Also very impressive that you made it at your age... I wish I was this productive when was your age.

UPDATE: If you are a Cura user, enable the "use thin walls" setting. This setting is NOT exposed under "shell" by default. You have to go to your settings, and enable it. Once enabled, turn it on. This fixed my gcode and does show all the extruded text... Thanks to a redditor for letting me know!

Hey CoreyNach!

As again, thanks for your time! I am pretty sure that its only Cura's problem as well, because there are lot of people who printed model on original scale with no text issue!

It's really cool that you've figured out how to solve it with "thin wall settings", this is really handy for me because I am going to order Anet A8 today, so I'll probably use Cura!

Can you please try and print it on a normal scale with thin wall setting? I'd really like to see how will the text perform then!

Also I appreciate that you like my model, you can check out my newer MINI version of this 3d printer test :-). Lot of people are really amazed that this is really done by a 14 y.o. kid.... haha.

Best regards,
Marián :-)

Comments deleted.

Hi, i testet that, but i had Problems with the Signs from top. Like Hole Test Text or 3D Printer Test Text... you cannot read it on my print, there only much little holes but not readable.The "bigger" Holes are good. But the Text like X mm you cannot read...

And the Complete Text what looks out is missing.


I’d suggest you to try to decrease extrusion rate, as well as nozzle & bed temperature. You can also try to decrease printer speed to achieve better precision!

Best regards,
Marián :-)!

Hi, what is extrusion rate? I use ultimaker cura on windows... dont find that... also nozzle, what is that?

I tried with lower bed temperature and lower print speed, but thats not helping

Sorry for late reply,

Extrusion rate is basically "how much of filament is extruded" by a "nozzle" (nozzle = printing head; that device which prints out the filament). I've never worked with Cura much, but I am pretty sure that you can decrease it somewhere... I'll be called like "extrusion" or "filament amount" or something like that I think.

By a "nozzle" temperature I mean a temperature on a printing head!

Best regards,
Marián :-).

I think so!

I didn't use S3D much, because my printer is BFB type but I know something about it. The best thing you can is to create multiple processes, or add more temperature states in "temperature" section. You can change temperature related to the layer height there!

Best regards,
Marián :-).

Thanks for this test. My printer did surprisingly well. Perfect bridges and only serious overhang problems at 80 degrees.
I decided to print the bottom plate at only half the height, since it seemed like a lot of wasted filament to print it at full height.
However, I think you made 2 mistakes: The 8mm hole is actually 9mm, and the wall thickness for the diameter test is 1mm instead of 0.5mm. I thought my printer messed up, but I checked it in fusion 360.

Btw, it would be nice to have a little more spacing between the pillars and the 3 horizontal bars (the ones between the pillars and the overhang test), to allow easier measurements using calipers.

Keep it up!

Hey Craven122,

I´ve read your comment once again and I found that you were saying "hole test" not "diameter test". You were right, the 8mm hole was actually 9mm in the diameter, but now should be everything fixed in the "3rd gen" of my model!

Thanks for your help!
Best regards,
Marián :-).

Hey Craven112,

I've already fixed that issue and uploaded "2nd gen" of my model. What is very interesting is that I actually see the diameter as 8mm in my Solidworks software, here is a picture :


Can you please double-check it in the Fusion 360?

Anyways, the 0.5mm wall was my mistake, there should be "1.0mm" wall.

Thanks for your help!
Best regards,
Marián :-).


I really appreciate your feedback!

I never thought that my design will have so much popularity here so I didn't check the diameters... I don't have a Solidworks on my MacBook now but as soon as I'll have it installed again I'll do my best to fix it!

Otherwise, I hope that my design helped you!

PS: You are right, the base bottom plate could be a bit thinner, but i wanted to be sure that no-one will have problem with printing this thing - so I rather decided to use more material on the bottom plate than having some issues!

Best regards,


What a brilliant idea!!
I really wish I had thought of it!!! :)

Thank you for posting this. You have made my life a lot easier (I test a LOT of filaments!)

Thanks! Imagine that this all was designed by 14 years old person hehe....

I really appreciate your comment, every comment helps me a LOT.

Best regards,
Marián :-).

If at age 14, you are already producing what people need, I predict a bright future for you.

Thank you. I now feel older than I have ever done! :D

I really hope for the bright future!
Right now, i am just a kid at the elementary school....
As always, thanks for moral support ;-).

I am trying my best to deliver what people need, unfortunately I like coding more than 3D designing heh.

I also have to say that I like your designs either ;-).


I have a LOT that I need to put up here, but my day job (with a UK filament company) keeps me so busy that I never seem to get the time.
I need to make more of an effort to post them. :D

You should post them I am pretty sure that they are awesome!


Nice idea - my only caveat for anyone thinking of printing it would be that if you fail the z-axis columns (or anything before that), it's going to throw the rest of the test, i.e. the overhangs. I had to resort to adding support to the columns with a peg to get past the final column, although that's more on the printer (and me) than the design.

If you've got the time/filament to spare, and you're confident you have good settings, I'd recommend printing on the highest detail possible, just because it is such a nice all-in-one design.


I am really amazed how is my design popular! I was uploading it with Hope that at least someone will download it - now, after 2 months, my design is one of the most popular designs on thingiverse!

Otherwise, i really appreciate ur comment!

If you had any issues with my design, feel free to abuse me.

Best regards,
Marián :-)!


That is a fantastic testing! Great work!

But just a question, when I import this model into Slic3r and slice it, I could not see all the Emboss words (e.g. the ones at BRIDGING TEST, DIAMETER TEST). Do you have any idea on this? What is the height of those emboss words?

Slic3r setting:

  • 0.05mm or 0.10mm layer height
  • 70-100% infill
  • No support



I have no idea if It works, but maybe you can decrease extrusion rate value....

The text is just for decoration, nothing cruel :-). I’d make it bigger, but I wasn’t sure how to do it in Solidworks.

Thanks for moral support, I really appreciate it :-).

Best results in 3D printing!

Comments deleted.

Great design for testing the printer and filament. Thanks for sharing.

No problem, I made it for this purposes :-).

Hope you'll get good results,

I have a problem with the layer of the print. Please suggest a solution to the issue. I have a TEVO TARANTULA 3D printer. Material: PLA Bed Temperature: 60 Nozzle Temp: 210. Print speed: 30mm/s

[email protected]

Try tentionening the belts

Hello, which software are you using? It can be hardware issue or software issue. In case of hardware issue just check all belts and motors.

In case of software problem, you maybe made mistake while creating virtual 3D printer plane.

Marián :-)

Looks like your belts need tightening, they skip on the pulley wheels.

Maybe, well if yes, I think that the printer won’t even print the first layer. I think that’s it’s rather software issue, but not sure tho.

Best regards,

Hello! i have the worst printer ever. the geeetech prusa I3 and it failed EVERY test.
i know its the printer's fault, do you have a good one around the price range of €200-€300?

Well; I have 3000€ CubePro Duo (YES, 3000€) and it can’t even print this test. It has totally closed software so you can’t adjust any values....

I’d probably recommend you buying Anet A6/A8 or in better way CR-10.

If you wan’t to invest more, the best printer you can get is probably Prusa MK 3.

Wish you luck while chosing new printer!

Best regards,
Marián :-)

Just curious how come no diagonal lines?

You can remove diagonal lines (scars) by adjusting vertical lift.

You can get more info here :

Hope for good results,

Should this be printed like the thingiverse blue image shows? or should it be rotated so that the square big platform is laying on the heat bed?

You should rotate it to the heated bed, iťs probably my (or maybe thingiverse) 3d model rotation problem. Hope this helps, don’t forget to post your results!

Best regards,

very cool Majda. I'll def be using it to test/tune my printer. Thanks!

I really thank to you man!

I really appreciate your donate, it helped me a lot, THANKS!

Hope you'll tune your printer as much as you can, feel free to abuse me here or on my personal email [email protected], i can help you whenever you want.

Best regards,
Marián Trpkoš.

Comments deleted.

Any suggestions for print speed using a makerbot 5th gen replicator?

You can try 2000mm/m but I am not sure, best thing you can do is to print at default speed of your printer :-).

Hope for good results!

Can you suggest me what to do when my printer can't do the bridging test or overhang test? Thanks

BTW Slovensko/Česko? (if you don't understand let it be)

And yes, I am from Czech Republic.
You can DM me on “[email protected]

Hello, firstly check your temperature.
If you are printing with ABS, you should have about 220-240 degree of Celsius. If you are printing with PLA, your temperature should be about 190-220 degree of Celsius.
Also be sure that your fans are spinning, otherwise printer wouldn’t be able to bridge at all. FANS ARE VERY IMPORTANT!!!
Lastly, lower your printing speed. Your printer is maybe too fast and that isn’t good too.....

Hope this help, tell me if it works!

i will test with abs 0.2 layer and 125 mm/sec speed on ultimaker 2+

Well sounds good! Be sure to post it here after you make it!
Glad to hear that someone is going to print my creation!

Recommend Layer Resolution and Print Speed?

Depends on your printer. :-)

Too cool, thank you very much.

Has lots of features to see your printers limitations.
However, 13 hours for a test print. Way too big, with lots of excess/unnecessary blocks.

Well, it’s made for new 3D printers to completely test their abilities! Otherwise I Hope you like my print! Seeing a mail from Thingiverse “made” always makes me so happy!

Great project! All things tested in only one file!

Thanks! It always charges me up when I see a new positive comment on my thing! Thanks for moral support!

I’m going to use this as a decoration

Like really? Do you like my design so much?
It's really nice for me to know that someone appreciate my work :-).

Hehehe :-D, really?

Should this be printed as designed (upright) or flat on it's back?

Flat, it's design mistake :-). Hope you enjoy it!

Would be much more challenging on its side!