I've been developing algorithms for genetic fractals for the last decade and this project served as a test drive of my new 3D Printer (Creality CR10 Mini).
The 12 leaves are printed separately and inserted in the lamp base.
The lamp base is design to take an E14 fitting which fits directly into the lamp base on a rim inside the base. Refer photo above for the type of fitting. Please see the IMPORTANT notes below.
I used a remote controlled colour E14 led bulb which lights the lamp up beautifully at night. Lots of lovely colours :)
IMPORTANT: ONLY USE LOW POWER LED LIGHT BULBS IN THIS LAMP!!!
If you use incandescent or other types of lamp you will probably melt the lamp and possibly start a fire.
IMPORTANT: WHEN INSTALLING THE LAMP FITTING, BE CAREFUL WITH THE WIRING. YOU WILL BE PLUGGING THIS INTO A MAINS OUTLET AND NEED TO KNOW THE RISKS OF ELECTRIC SHOCK.
If you have no experience with electricity, then this project is probably not for you.
YOU BUILD THIS LAMP AT YOUR OWN RISK. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS.
There are two parts: the lamp base and the leaves that slot into the base. The settings above are for the base only. Here are more details.
Before anything else: Make sure that you scale the design correctly on your slicer. The base should be 235 mm high. The leaves should be 225 mm between the most distant branches.
The base is a straightforward print. I used 1mm wall thickness to make the base sturdy. In particular the 'feet' need to be strong at the points where they attach to the base. You need to print the supports because otherwise the E14 fitting ring inside the base won't print well enough. This is a 15 hour build.
The leaves are a different story... I made at least 10 partial prints to get these right!
The problem is that the first layer needs to be very well stuck to the build plate. I build on glass with hairspray. Because these leaves have very thin branches (128), if only one of them lifts during the build, the print head will catch it on the next pass and lift the piece from the build plate, completely or partially. Either way, the print will be ruined.
In the end, I added a "rim" to the end of the branches that keep them all together and well stuck. Problem solved. IMPORTANT: When printing the leaves, make sure that the rim touches the bed. Refer to the photo detail above.
But there are still many sharp lines that get put down during the first layer that need to stick well. Things like blobs need to be avoided for the same reason.
On my printer I print the first layer 10 degrees higher: I also SLOW DOWN the print speed for the first layer to a 10mm/s. Believe me, it is worth the extra few minutes.
Once you get the settings for the leaves sorted, you can print one after the other like a factory. They took 2 hours each. 12 Leaves.
You need to cut the rim of the leaves to expose the branches. Just cut along the rim as shown on the photo.
If you used the right scaling, than the leaves should fit nicely in the slots in the base. If not, either sand the lips down or thicken them with tape. I don't recommend that you glue the leaves in place since you won't be able to change the LED bulb...
Getting the fitting and LED bulb in place is tricky since you can't get your hands inside the lamp from the top. I screwed the bulb in the fitting first and then lightly taped a short cardboard tube to the bulb which allow me to manipulate it inside the lamp. Not great, but fortunately these LED bulbs tend to last (...!)
The base was designed with Fusion 360.
The leaves are designed with a algorithm that I developed for creating smooth tree fractals, i.e. fractals whose branches have no corners or sharp bends. In this particular example, the fractal was fitted to grow to a semi-circular boundary.