Measuring Cube

by iomaa, published

Measuring Cube by iomaa Dec 1, 2017

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Let us know which options you’d like in a cube we bring to the market (holds liquids, food-safe, dishwasher-safe) in an upcoming crowdsourcing campaign.


Measuring Cube | Version 3 | Combined Imperial and Metric | includes in-line measurements of adjacent containers | 89 mm, 3.5" cube

Cups: 1 cup, 1/2 cup, 1/3 cup, 1/4 cup. Tablespoons: 2 tbsp, 1 tbsp, 1/2 tbsp | in-line: 3-1/2 tbsp, 3 tbsp, 2-1/2 tbsp, 1-1/2 tbsp. Teaspoons: 1 tsp, 1/2 tsp, 1/4 tsp | in-line: 1-3/4 tsp, 1-1/2 tsp, 3/4 tsp. Metric: 240 mL, 120 mL, 60 mL, 30 mL, 15 mL, 7.5 mL, 5 mL, 2.5 mL, 1.25 mL | in-line: 52.5 mL, 45 mL, 37.5 mL, 22.5 mL, 8.75 mL, 7.5 mL, 3.75 mL.


Measuring Cube | Version 2:

1 cup (236.588 mL), 1/2 cup, 1/3 cup, 1/4 cup, 1/8 cup, 1/4 teaspoon, 1/2 teaspoon, 1 teaspoon (4.928 mL), 1/2 tablespoon, 1 tablespoon. Size: 89 mm (3.5") cube.


Measuring Cube | Original:

1 cup (236.588 mL), 1/2 cup, 1/3 cup, 1/4 cup, 1/5 cup, 1/4 teaspoon, 1/2 teaspoon, 1 teaspoon (4.928 mL), 1 tablespoon. Size: 90 mm (3.5") cube.


Measuring Cube | Metric:

250 mL, 125 mL, 100 mL, 75 mL, 50 mL, 1/4 teaspoon, 1/2 teaspoon, 1 teaspoon (4.928 mL), 1 tablespoon. Size: 93 mm cube.



1/2 cup (118.294 mL), 1/3 cup, 1/4 cup, 1/16 teaspoon, 1/8 teaspoon, 1/4 teaspoon, 1/2 teaspoon, 1 teaspoon (4.928 mL), 2 teaspoons, 1/2 tablespoon, 1 tablespoon, 2 tablespoons. Size: 76 mm (3") cube.


All containers share (within reason) common walls for the most compact shape and the minimum filament use.

How to use: fill all the way up for the correct volume for each container.

We printed at 0.1 mm layer, 12% fill, 0.2 mm layer should also be fine. Supports: NONE.


Please see our popular binary titanium key carabiners made from pure titanium, with the safety cage to keep your keys secure, and the built-in bottle opener.


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FAQs from our survey (190+ responses, thanks)

Make it in silicone: tbd, we need something solid, the winning material now is nylon, commonly used for kitchen utensils like spatulas: strong, survives heat of a dishwasher, FDA approved.

Make it in stainless: yes, after we reach break-even volumes in nylon.

Cup size: my personal hell, with so many definitions of the cup. Good news: the difference between the “legal” and the “customary” US cup is around 1%, so whatever we choose it shouldn’t make a big difference.

Larger cubes (I assume starting at 2 cups): sure, after we take care of the regular and the mini version.

Europe: yes, we’ll be shipping there.

Canada: Qui, bien sûr.

MiniCube: After it’s big brother.

Volume Discounts: We'll offer discounts for 2, 3, 5 cubes… with the shipping cost of multiple cubes close to the cost of shipping of a single cube.

Specs: Dishwasher safe, holds liquids, food grade, FDA safe, BPA-free... Yes, we'll work with the manufacturer to select the correct plastic injection material for food contact application.

Emails in the survey: we'll use them exclusively to let you know when the campaign is ready.


The Measurement Cube is protected by US patent pending.

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I'd really like this design. I'd love to see a "spoons" only version. As another person wrote below, having all small measurements on one side makes it hard to fill and empty only one. There's another on Thingiverse already, but it's not as refined as yours.

How is everyone printing this with the "iomaa.com" part floating in the air? I can't figure a way to get supports there.

The cube was designed to 3D print without any supports, there are no "floating" elements there.

Version 3 (the newest one) does not have this line, it was replaced by PAT. PEND. -- cube^3 also prints without any supports.

The commercial version will use the injected nylon, dishwasher safe, liquid-safe, etc. Getting there, slowly…

Thanks to all for participation in our survey. We’re clueless without your input, so please vote.


The Cube Jigger mentioned below:
It was invented by Josh Owen, a brilliant designer of many award-winning products.
If you feel our product violates his patent rights (we believe we don't violate any of his rights), contact him directly at:


It’s Cube Jigger, not a Bar Jigger, and it was designed by Josh Owens


There is a difference in utility between these designs: for example, the Measurement Cube uses common blended walls for all containers, the Cube Jigger does not. Since this is a requirement for plastic injection, our product can be manufactured in plastic, the Jigger cannot, and it is produced by CNC in aluminium.

Your comment about “this thing is already on the market” is ill-informed. Look at the sizes of containers: from 0.5 oz to 2.25 oz in a 3” cube. The Cube Jigger, CNC in aluminium, containing sizes starting from 1 cup would probably use a 7-8” cube at a cost of CNC around $150, when our cube will cost around $11 and it fits all containers into a 3.5” cube.

Our patent application is for the utility patent for the process of forming common blended walls between containers through geometry sweeps (the walls are not “straight”); Josh’s patent is the "design" patent for a cube with symmetrical containers, and our application does not violate his design patent rights, so unless someone invented our process before, we are quite confident Josh's patent does not interfere with our application. His design patents are already listed in our patent application when we refer to other patents within the same field of search.

This thing is already available on the market, known as Bar Jigger and its in aluminium. Your patent wouldn't work. Also saw a lot of it for sale on Ebay....

Would love to see an ounces file for the grandparents!

Here’s the plan: we are working on plastic-injection version around the clock and it is almost finished. We’ll follow up with details soon.

Here’s the problem: the injection process is very expensive, not only because of the mold costs but because of high minimum production volumes. We’ll start with a single cube version in one color, then expand the color selection, and then move to other versions after reaching specific volumes.

Huge thanks to anyone participating in our survey (160+ responses now).


The survey results help us determine which options you prefer. We’re clueless without your input, so unless you want to see the cube with roman numerals (I/III CUP, LXXX mL), keep voting…

What about a Goal-Post that clips onto two opposite corners and allows the object to sit on a dishwasher rack pike and spin freely while it gets washed. Then, there would be NO water left in one of the compartments.

Thank you for your input, this product evolves because of great feedback of users like you. The production cube will be placed upside down in a dishwasher; there will be no water left in compartments so there is no need for clips. The bottom section was redesigned: we need a continuous printing without overhangs for 3D, but we deal with different technical limitations for injection molds. The solution for water draining in a dishwasher is built into the geometry of new production cubes; the design was tested extensively last week.


Absolutely great! Love this... I never did well in Mathematics but I can see the logic here.

the only thing i dont like is the 1/4,1/2,1 teaspoon sections are on the same plane so how u spose to scoope 1 without the others and thn how you spose to empty the one you want?

I know, right? I'm not sure the creator of this even tried to use it. The cup section are handy, but nested measuring cups work better and take up less space. I'm not really seeing the point in this.

i agree, I thought it looked really cool and would be useful so I printed one. As soon as I started testing it out I went "huh, this thing isnt all that useful and is kinda awkward to use.... Its bigger than the measuring cup it replaces so isn't too good for scooping, and the tea/table spoon measurements are even more awkward and again, no scooping.... Also, mine at least, isn't very accurate....

I mean, it looks cool, just not very useful.... Glad I didn't buy one in the store....

For the kitchen? No thanks, but it would be great for a kids toy for measuring out dirt pies.....

Comments deleted.

For anyone interested in designing parts and molds for the plastic injection process, this is a great intro:

I like it!

Has anyone tried printing the negative and using it as a mold for silicone (or similar)? I think this could be a two part mold. Anybody have experience with that? Is PLA decent for mold making?

To the Googles!

I forgot to add, it would look nicest if the print was from ABS and then vapor-polished smooth. It would also de-mold easier. And the resulting part would clean up easier.

Because of the shape, you would be better off using a positive print and making the mold out of silicone. After that, you could still make the part out of silicone using the silicone mold, you just have to spray the mold with a little release agent so they do not bond together. Because of the flat bottom, I think you could even get away with a one-piece mold if it is made from silicone.

Please help us bring this product to the market by participating in our survey https://goo.gl/WTZucU to prepare for the crowdsourcing campaign.

I filled out the survey, and I really hope this happens. I will certainly back it. It's a great idea that I would like to see done with food safe materials.

Good luck on the journey this will take you on! What will be your funding goal? Injection molding ain't cheap :)

Nope, they ain't cheap, but getting there, slowly. Too early for funding goals.

Big thanks to everybody participating in the survey, it really helps in the design process.

Comments deleted.

Perhaps a verticle slab handle could be designed into one corner edge sticking out at 45 degrees with a pair of 1/4 tsp and a 1/2 tsp in a line across the top. You could dip the handle to get 1/4, 1/2, or 1 tsp. The opposite end of the handle would have the 1 tbl.

Really nice work!

tried it, im a newbie. but it got about 1/8 inch tall and nozzle smacked it right off the print table. using factory pla on a x-one2. with factory slicer software. looked at the paths ect. couldnt see any cause

Have You calibrated your extruder? Over-extrusion could be causing the print to grow taller than it should, and hook on the nozzle.

yup. printed numerous items. no problems exept the cube.i will try it though

Did you use a raft? I have had random peeloffs without a raft.. and none using one. For such a lengthy print I would recommend. You could also play with your bed temp.. glue stick etc..

ive tried with and without rafts, my slicer software is pretty picky. if there are any holes in the model then it pumps the media all over the place.

I am still printing mine. I am using 1.75 mm PLA and the base and the spots that hold the liquid have holes that would prevent me from using this. I had to convert this into a gcode file, I am not sure if this has any affect?"

Absolutely brilliant! Although filling the fractional teaspoons might be a bit problematic. For the larger volumes, this is incredible. Time to order some PET-G for sure. Good luck with your patent, this is a solid commercial design. Kudos, and thanks for sharing. I cook and bake - I love the design.

i think this is a wonderful idea because its easy and you cannot use it over and over again

What are the print times you all are having with this one?
I was going to print a couple today but one was 40 hours to print

Mine took 14 hrs using maker select plus. 0.2 mm thickness and I think 50 mm/s. I think I have my full settings in my profile. What settings are u using?

I printed this for my daughter who's learning to cook. She loves it!

Hey man, really cool thing you created. May you upload the smaller version in metric also, please?

I just made one and I'm loving it! Thank you so much.

It would be great to hang it on the wall or put on the fridge with a magnet.
Could you make a version with some holes in the bottom to hang it on nails and/or one to put a magnet in?

Would be awesome. :-)

I don't know HOW everyone seems to print this just fine, but jesus ever loving christ I can NOT GET THIS TO PRINT!!!!! Im trying to cast this using lost ABS, but abs warps like a mother, went out and bought HIPS filament, and it STILL won't print correctly! Working on attempt 17 now, after I clear the print bed of 4 hours of printing.

Edit: now on 18. The first "solid" later isn't solid, but is made of a central square surrounded by solid infill. Because this is unsupported (with no way to fix this) I can't get this to work.

Please help

I didn't print this thing but i suggest your to print it with Pla or Petg , they're safer with food than Abs

You may want to try lost PLA, avoiding so many issues when printing ABS. Bottom sections merge without any support around 4 mm height.

PLA burnout isn't really an option, so I've gone with dissolvable polystyrene. Here's some pictures to better illustrate my (now consistent) problem to see if anyone can help:

As you can see in layer 65, it's building up the walls with no central support, and then in layer 66, a completely unsupported later appears. This normally wouldn't be a huge issue (my printer handles bringing surprisingly well) but you can see it isn't a solid layer. It has that central rectangle that is unconnected, so it tries to print mid air, and prints from the walls, stopping in mid air. This lack of a solid foundation ruins the rest of the print, as you can see in the two failed prints.

I know this is probably a problem with my slicer, but I wish it would print infill before trying to print mid air.

there’s something wrong with the slicer or a file, this is not the correct setup. try downloading the file again, maybe it was corrupted. also check infill values - if you are using multiple processes, try to use a single one - you may be printing specific layers with 0%infill and with several processes it’s somethimes easy to miss.

You were completely right: I added a .5mm raft to the base in tinkercad so I could print it without warping, and somehow that was the cause. After slicing the normal file it works fine. Hoping it works this time, I'm anxious to print this model.

If you print with PLA, you might not need a raft since it won't warp like ABS. I initially tried ABS but the way that the base on this is designed, it's very prone to warping. Just redid it on PLA and it printed perfectly.

How did it turn out?

Well, I left my printer running overnight to print it, and woke up at 3 am to the smell of burning plastic as the heating element somehow came loose and carved its way through part of the model. I've yet to fix everything but after feeling very discouraged, I might try a few more times before giving in and settling for PLA plastic.

I've had my BIBO2 B Touch for just one day so far, and it is 72% through printing this neat design. Had a little trouble getting the build table leveled and close enough to the extruders. An email from the manufacturer reminds the user right off that 3D Printing has a long learning curve. But one day! ... to get through unboxing, assembly, set up and the test objects, and to printing the Measuring Cube! Wow, the little BIBO is a great product.

wow this is so very awesome! i have been a chef over 30 years i must say this is one of the best tools so far i have found. not sure how you even thought this up but if this is your design you truly need to take it to shark tank or kickstarter this is one to share with the world and make a buck doing it. good luck and thanks for sharing it here. i will get years of great use out of it!

I hate to ask, but any way you could make it so the letters could be printed with a dual color printer/

sure, on the to-do list now

Pretty awesome! The extruded and relieved lettering have concave bits that make it hard to clean - any chance of a remix with no sharp interior edges and corners?

yes, it will be adjusted in the next version

Approximately how much filament would you estimate the large cube takes? Awesome design btw.

In Cura, at 15% infill and a shell thickness of 0.8mm, I get 101g or ~37m of 1.70 mm dia 1.23 g/cm3 PETG, $2.65 worth at $26/kg that I paid.

Why are there “teaspoon” and “tablespoon” compartments on the metric cube?
What are the volumes of those, in real units of measurement (cm³)?
And why is anybody still using “cup” as a unit of measurement, anyway?
And how big is the cup you used for this?
Most likely values are 240 cm³ or 236.59 cm³, but it could also be 250 cm³, 284 cm³ or 227.3 cm³. Who knows.

Why are there “teaspoon” and “tablespoon” compartments on the metric cube?
It’s my feeble attempt to convert you back to the imperial system

What are the volumes of those, in real units of measurement (cm3)?
In real units:
1 cup = (1/16 x 231) / ((average length of a roman foot) / 12)3

And why is anybody still using “cup” as a unit of measurement, anyway?
Because it is based on a solid measurement of length of soldiers’ feet, protected in fine Italian shoes, and not by the length of quadrants of meridians running through Paris, requiring the trip to the North Pole, with all these polar bears waiting for land surveyors.

And how big is the cup you used for this?
Our cup is, of course, 236.588 mL, or the US customary cup, not to be confused with the legal cup, 240 mL, or a metric cup of 250 mL, or an Imperial cup of 284 mL, or a Canadian cup of 227.304 mL, or a Latin American cup of 200 mL (but not always), or a Japanese cup of either 180.4 mL or 200 mL…

Thanks for the information.
But sorry, the “cup” is not defined by either of those, but via caesium hyperfinestructure and the speed of light, as is the metre, but with an unnecessary¹ heap of cultural baggage added.

• 1 s: the duration of 9 192 631 770 periods of the radiation corresponding to the transition between the two hyperfine levels of the ground state of the caesium 133 atom. This is roughly 1/86400 or 1/(24×60×60) of the time² the Earth takes to rotate so much that the same spot on the surface faces the Sun again, while also revolving around the Sun.
• 1 m: length light travels in 1/299 792 458 of a second. This is very roughly 1/10 000 000 of the distance from the Earth’s pole to the equator.
• Those two are enough. No Earth with feet and meridians and cities named Paris required. One millilitre = 0.01 m × 0.01 m × 0.01 m

The cultural baggage:
One customary cup:
• One yard is defined as 0.9144 m. See above
• One foot is defined as 1/3 yard
• One inch is defined as 1/12 foot
• One U.S. liquid gallon is defined as 3 inch × 7 inch × 11 inch. Or 1 inch × 21 inch × 11 inch. Or 1 inch × 77 inch × 3 inch. Or 1 inch × 33 inch × 7 inch. Or 1 inch × 1 inch × 231 inch.
• Take your pick.
• 231.Two hundred an thirty one cubic inch. Why 231? We have already picked two values apparently at random. (m, s) Now we have to put in one more, with quite unhandy prime factors? WHY?????
• I mean, “The volume of ten pounds of water” makes more sense.
• Anyway. One U.S. customary pint is one eighth of a US liquid gallon.
• In cubic inches (defined via metre, remember) that is 231/8 cubic inches.
• I thought the great thing about the US system was that you could use small integers to go from one unit to another. There is no integer to go from cubic inch to US pint.
• One U.S. customary cup is 1/2 U.S. customary pint.
• That is 231/16 cubic inch.
• That is 231/16 × 0.0254 m × 0.0254 m × 0.0254 m.
• 0.2365882365 cubic decimetres exactly

Yeah. That makes sense.

Even the US FDA seems no agree. Their thinking seems to have been:
“Hmm. People here use ‘cup’, but the definition makes no sense. We should pick a somewhat round value from the SI to use. 1/4 litre seems to be off too much. People may notice. 240 ml instead of 250 ml should work.”

Yes. This is a hill i am willing to, if not die, at least fight on.

⸻ ⸻ ⸻
¹This is the point of contention. I say that the time to switch from some kind of pound-foot system to the metric system was about two centuries ago. 145 years ago (last parts of Germany) was a bit late.
²I don’t like that factor. It makes no sense. But metric time is something that is harder to implement worldwide than the rest of the SI.

All good points and the metric system is clearly superior, except for the polar bears thing.
The meter is not such pure measurement, the number of bones in your hand’s fingers is still a part of meter’s DNA.
Now think how easy it is to order a dozen buns at a bakery using the imperial system… oh no, the baker’s dozen is actually 13.

What has caesium 133 and the speed of light got to do with bones?

Also, in a few years the polar bears will all have starved to death. The problem will then be that you need a boat to get to the North Pole. And that there are no polar bears any more. And the rest of global warming.

Lmao this is funny to read. Im glad we use metric over here. But if you need to use imperial than your cube is damn handy. Super nice design well done.

wrong reply but the maker will read this i guess

You need to dig little deeper to the times of the French Revolution, when the metric system was established.

Metric is older than that, as the founders of the US were deciding what system to use for our measurements when they wrote the US Constitution. The writings show they decided to use the ones the British used since we knew they were going to be out largest trading partner. They thought about using the French Metric system, but France was falling into chaos.

The US Constitution was written in 1787 and the French Revolution started in 1789.

The US was the first nation to use a metric money system, though (afaik). A dime is a deci-dollar, for example. US Money is based on x.xx dollars. The British changed to having 100 pence in a pound in 1971. Can you imagine having to remember there are 12 pence to a shilling and 20 shillings to a pound, meaning there are 240 pence in a pound?

How deep?
The first idea was a 2 s pendulum. Where are the bones?
The second, adopted one was 1/10000000s of the distance Pole-Equator. I see no bones.
Then a few metre prototypes. Made of metal, not bone.
Then it was based on the wavelength of Krypton-86. Not even a bone seeker
Then we got the current definition, based on the speed of light.

Maybe you are talking about Napoleon’s aune? That was long after the metric system was established, and a temporary addition of an unnecessary heap of cultural baggage, albeit not as bad as the American system. The metric aune was defined as 1.2 m. And it had little to do with bones. A lower arm + hand that is 1.2 m long?

And, number of bones? Sorry, your sources seem to be very obscure. Do you mean number of fingers? Yes the SI uses multiples of 10 (or 1000) for the prefixes. Otherwise, a typical hand has 14 phalanges, 5 metacarpal bones, which i usually would not call “in the fingers”, and 8 carpal bones, that really aren’t part of specific fingers. Somehow the only time i have come along “14” in a measuring system was Heinlein’s joke “fourteen inches to a foot” in “The Moon is a Harsh Mistress”.

Please, what do you mean?

Getting warmer. The Pole-Equator thing, and the beginning of the imprerial system, which used the bones of the fingers, but not all of them, to count to 12 using a thumb.

Hey, i did learn something new: how to count to 12 with one hand. Thanks.
But it gets gross when you count whole dozens on your second hand and get to a total of 144…

Otoh, the whole point of the metric system was to get rid of factors like this. The idea was to just use one length unit for everything and use standard base ten arithmetic on that one number.
Saying the 12 “is still a part of meter’s DNA” is like saying monarchy was in the DNA of the first French republic. No, revolution was in its DNA. They called the former king « Citizen Capet » and then cut off his head. Revolution is the opposite of evolution.

So for thousands of years there were people counting to twelve using a thumb and three sections of their 4 fingers, and they were doing it as fast as any teenager texting on an iPhone today. That’s the beginning of the imperial system as we know it:

4 fingers x 3 sections of each finger = 12

The meter unit is based on a fraction of the distance from the equator to the North Pole, which is a quarter of the total circumference of the Earth crossing through Paris.

The “quarter” comes from the imperial system, so there is still a bit of finger counting DNA in the metric system today.

Which is probably why I use the metric system exclusively for all my work :)

What a brilliant idea.

This is such a clever design! Thanks for sharing the files! :)

Thanks, that means a lot coming from you, I'm a big fan of your work. Go Benchy!

Thanks for your kind words! :-)

Simplify 3d cannot handle the writing. It prints 2 walls with no fill, so the writing isnt closed at the top in any setting. This is bad as not cleanable.

Most of them are closed in S3D, a few letters hit the resolution limit, there is no place for a third line. Suggestions?

I think a different font possibly.

The letters need to be made bold or larger. It's a design issue.

i think i will make one and use it as a mold to use with food safe silicone or resin

send a pic : j

Couldn't you use PETG?

Yes, PETG is food safe and in fact is used in many food packaging applications. The pigmentations used in the filaments are another matter.

Sure, i could... but silicone eliminates the issue of bacteria in layerlines. Also i showed it to some relatives and they all wanted one and when making four or five its easier just to make a mold and cast them.

is there any way you could make this a little smaller? its just a tad too bit for my micro+. Thanks!

If you made it smaller all the measurements would be wrong.

well, yeah. i was hoping he could cut a tiny bit off or something.

soon, looking at one now

MicroCube? Yes, maybe, what’s the max size in mm you can print?

The M3D Micro. It can go 116mm high, 113x109, but above 74mm the dimensions are 91x84. Its wierd. You would probably only need to change it a tiny bit.

Cool model, printing now (PETG, .15 layer height, 9 hours projected). One suggestion: the letters are raised (and sunk) by quite a bit: 1.4 - 1.2 mm. That looks cool but undoubtedly makes cleaning difficult. Embossing half that depth (or height) would IMHO look almost as nice and be much easier to clean.

how long would this take to print? it just fits my printer, but i'm worried about the amount of electricity it will use... please reply

It depends on your printer and the cost of electricity, but 3D printing uses a negligible amount of electricity, probably a couple cents for this print.

My slicer (Cura) said about 7.5 hours.

I love this. So elegant and simple in its design. My print of it turned out awesome.

I don't understand why nobody ever mentions Milton solution regarding printed items and food.
Milton is safe for stuff going in a newborn baby's mouth, and PLA doesn't react with it - it's a cold sterilisation method, so it will kill any nasties lurking on the PLA - and if it's submerged in it, it'll be able to get into anywhere that any other liquid has managed to get to too!

I use Milton all the time, it's also really useful for if you leave protein in a shaker cup and it goes smelly, or if you buy second hand electronics and the person has smoked around them. Milton will strip the smoke smell from the (dissembled) shell very easily.

Is it a joke ? I see it is for a new TV series:


Gee, good cooking is like good engineering, you need to use standardized measures ! What is next ? Use your limbs for length and stones for weight ? :)

What do you use to measure your ego? On a well-calibrated printer I imagine it's pretty darn close. Ideally, we'd weigh all our baking ingredients. No one will force you to use these.

Ever heard about this thing called "humor" ?
Stop using "meth".

Humor implies being funny

And often a brain to understand !

Okay, I'm super interested in printing a couple of these as stocking stuffers because I have a couple of cooks in my family, butttttttttttt now I don't know if I should. First of all, all I've got right now is ABS, which it sounds like is a no-no? Second of all, is there a consensus on a method by which to coat/seal stuff like this? This is just a wonderful idea and I'd love to print it before the holidays.

Great model!

You definitely want to use PLA instead of ABS, seeing as PLA is food safe and ABS isn't.

Not every PLA is food safe. The problem is the color, it can be toxic so read the product description first.

PLA is not food safe Taulman t-glase PET would be a better option FDA approved

PLA is quite safe, it is used as self decaying support in surgery. It can also be eaten without any side effects, it decomposes into lactic acid.
However, any coloring added is most likely be toxic. Additionally, 3D printing process might introduce bits and pieces from your nozzle or extruder assembly. Finally, 3D printed materials have micropores in which bacteria can thrive. Unless you coat 3D printed parts with food safe paint and/or coating, it is not food safe.
TLDR: No 3D printed item is food safe unless you have a specially designed 3D printer for this purpose, regardless of FDA approval.

Yeah, it's not going to be perfect no matter what, but will it kill you or even make you sick? Doubtful. You yourself have a cookie cutter customizer. I'd say try to use natural PLA/PET/PETG if possible, use a few good coats of polyurethane, and realize it's probably safer than non-organic produce.

Well, if you use it from time to time it won't make you sick, but if you use it regularly as a measure in kitchen it will. Not because of trace heavy elements but because it will accumulate bacteria in the pores. Thus, coating is required. Not sure about polyurethane though. It is never considered as food safe coating.

Thank you guys so much for the help. Can you recommend a polyurethane? Is there a standard one? New to the 3D printing biz. :)

And the PLA I've got is black. I'm assuming that's not great as far as colors go?

It seems polyurethane is food safe once fully cured, which they say can take up to 30 days. https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/8706/if-polyurethane-is-not-food-safe-why-is-it-used-on-dining-tables

Black PLA is quite difficult to work with, but if you get white one you can do very nice two color prints. If you do not have multiple nozzles you can still change filament between layers. The difficulty of black PLA is that when you sand it down, there is quite a bit of discoloration, which you can fix by heating. Use a lighter, be gentle, but keep lighter close to the part. Wait the part to cooldown between trials. If the internal structure gets melted, your part can get ruined.

Also, pretty sure I've never seen a recipe with 1/5 cup... Could you swap that out for 1/8 cup and 1/2 Tbsp or something more useful? Otherwise, a near perfect design.

Good point, see version 2

Awesome, thanks!

What is everyone's opinion on foodsafe printing? I only print in PLA, which is non-toxic since it is corn-based, but I've heard you need to be careful about the dyes. Also, the biggest risk in general seems to be from bacteria hiding in the layer lines. Would these be taken care of with a good wash? And then https://all3dp.com/1/food-safe-3d-printing-abs-pla-food-safe-filament/ mentions your nozzle, which could contain even contain lead.

On the flip side, it's not a mug that'll be full of coffee for hours, my ingredients sit in there for a minute at absolute most... unless I forgot the read the recipe through and don't have enough of something... Definitely never done that.

Also, waterproofing for liquid measure. The all3dp article mentioned polyurethane. According to the USDA, pretty much all modern woodworking finishes are food safe once fully cured. Plus, it's cheap, easy to find, and it should be waterproof. Is polyurethane the way to go?

Thanks for the great model! I'm looking forward to printing it. Simple but useful and well executed.

All bronze has lead, typically 6-8%. A tiny bit will transfer into printed products with wear. Personally, I'll print with eSUN PETG Green and use it for dry stuff only and not worry about it.

Though I'm a little bummed about the sharp edges and how much the lettering sticks in and out, which will make it hard to clean. Just a little bit raised would be sufficient, I think. No remixes allowed though, so here's to hoping awesome op takes constructive feedback :)

Not true. Most bronzes do not have lead. I'm a metallurgist.

I'm definitely not a metallurgist but everything I've read disagrees with you. I'd been trying to get lead-free fixtures and my research indicated that even supposed lead-free bronze alloys often contain significant quantities of lead, even though bismuth is present to replace the lead.. So, while I'm sure one could create such an alloy, as an end consumer it is hard to find products that are actually lead free, which is what is relevant here. School me, and while you're at it, let me know where to buy lead free nozzles.

It sounds like you are confusing Brass with Bronze. Matweb.com will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about any bronze alloy.

use a PET like taulman clear t-glase it is FDA approved and it is clear so you dont have to worry about dyes etc. but remember just because it is food safe doesnt mean it is dishwasher safe. i am pretty sure tglase is not dishwasher safe. I would never use ABS nor PLA PLA even though biodegradable has polystyrene which contains styrene and that is known "or believed" to be carcinogenic. makergear makes a series of food safe and dishwasher safe filament called raptor series i think might be worth to check that out. I would recommend Taulmans t-glase for sure though if your looking for food safe

Wow, very clever and great design. Edit: not a very original reply I see now but this is just so CLEVER :-)

1 Cup Measures perfectly!!
Thanks !

This is really clever; well done :)

Very clever and usefull, thanks dude !

Cool. Could you make one in real measurements to?

Freedom Units best units, commie.

The metric cube will be posted today :)

Maker Geeks offers an FDA approved and dishwasher safe PLA. I am currently printing a "butter pig" for Christmas gifts and will include a measuring cube made of the same stuff. Prints at a higher temp, but otherwise is very easy to deal with!

I asked makergeeks about their "FDA approved" claim and the response was basically that the raw resin they make it from is FDA approved, but beyond that it's not. They make it on a "clean" line (whatever that means) but don't have any kind of certification that it's actually clean or food safe, so while it's probably fine for use with food contact, the FDA approved label they give it is just marketing and not actually FDA approved.

They gave me these links regarding their base materials but it's not clear to me which is used.

I've always been happy with their filament, but their food safe and "FDA approved" claims are purely marketing with the disclaimer that you have to certify your own printing process.

There are a few food safe filaments out there the problem it making sure your machine is completely clear of non-food safe filament first.

...and that every step from resin to packaging to extruding to final use and every item that touches it along the way is food-safe as well. Granted, if you use this only as a dry measuring device, you're not likely to have a problem, but an FDM part, even with 100% infill, will be porous and can be easily and permanently contaminated when using liquids of any type. So it's not the plastic you have to worry about, for the most part, since contact with foodstuff will be brief. It's the foodstuff that contacts the plastic during use and remains behind that is problematic.

Indeed, I have so far only once been able to print a tiny container that could hold water without leaking. It was printed with PETG with deliberate over-extrusion. When I used the same settings for a bigger container of the same design, it again leaked. Prints always have tiny gaps and holes even if you cannot see them. Any 3D printed container that should hold a liquid, must be coated on the inside, and if the liquid is for consumption, then obviously that coating must be food-safe. And if it is going to be coated anyway, it matters much less whether the filament itself is perfectly food-safe or not, as long as it doesn't contain chemicals that could leach through the coating into the food.

Is there some sort of food safe coating I could put on this (spray, preferably) to make it usable for liquids?

Paraffin wax might be an idea.. If you want to make sure it's food safe, purchase the type used in sealing home canned food from a grocery store. It's not spray, it doesn't even come in a liquid form, but it is fairly easy to melt. You might have to experiment with this to make sure that the volumes in the print are correct post wax processing.

This is a great idea, but you may want to try a natural beeswax, which we eat in many food products, instead of a paraffin, which is a petroleum-based product.

We did a lot of work with 100% beeswax and PLA molds. When used with the food-grade release agent, beeswax can be easily removed after a few hours.

Beeswax will stick to PLA without a release agent and it’s very difficult to remove. Beeswax melts at 62 C, PLA softens at around 65-70 C, so pouring warm water at around 55 C melts the beeswax away and does not deform PLA.

This may work: melt beeswax, wait until it cools a bit, pour into the cube, wait 2 minutes, pour unhardened beeswax out, wait an hour, use warm water to dissolve the thin film of beeswax left in the cube.

After such treatment the PLA molds are indeed almost waterproof.

You could print it in natural PETG if you want to make it foodsafe but it might be hard to read the devisions. PLA isn't going to hurt you though especially since you will be keeping the liquid in it for approximately 10 seconds.

Agreed, PETG is food safe but you typically need to print your layers a little thicker .2mm at least