Playable Ukulele - Printable w/ no Supports

by Solstie, published

Playable Ukulele - Printable w/ no Supports by Solstie Mar 10, 2014

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Full-size Soprano Ukulele which prints with no supports.

Now includes files for both smaller and larger printers.

Designed to work with standard guitar or ukulele tuning machines and standard ukulele strings. Playable and is full soprano scale.

Many iterations to get to this design including: curved body for strength and to resist warping and Inner bracing which generally prevents delamination.

I have been playing my first print for about 6 months without issue.

UPDATE: Now includes files for smaller printers. Body lower and upper and Neck lower and upper. I included tabs on the body and neck to try and make glueing up the pieces easier. Let me know if any issues.

Video of playing available at: http://youtu.be/6QZvYGKUjJA



Use at least 4 layers and 50% fill. This will ensure that you have sufficient stiffness in the body and structure supports to hold the string tension. Printing from the inside out general works best for the initial overhang which is the roughest part of the print.


Like the body use lots of layers on the outside (at least 4). For the neck I have had success with 50% fill, but wouldn't do any less to ensure you have sufficient strength for strings.

Now includes files for small printers. Upper and Lower Body and Upper and Lower neck. Super glue the parts all together once printed.

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Anyone can link to the parts required to complete the build? the non printable ones i mean. ;)


Hi ! Yes if you have the BOM ! It ll we awesome

This is probably my first big 3d printing project and I learned quite a bit. Some observations and suggestions based upon my experience. first off, amazing job to Solstie, thank you for contributing, were it not for you, I'd never had experienced this. On to the lessons learned
My printer can only do 210/210/185 so I had to do the 4 piece print.
Printed all 4 pieces out in PLA at 210, with a bed heat of 55 at .2 layers and 50% infill
Assembled with Loctite All Purpose GO2 Glue, on the neck i also used Welder, and standard Loctite (black and red bottle). It broke all 3 times. I dremeled 2 holes and added 2 nails with the head cut off for support on that joint.

Today it was left unattended in the sun and the 2 pieces of the body separated. In the process of re-gluing.
The Dovetail has worked extremely well.
Suggestion- add some holes for a dowel/nail to reinforce the neck. after 3 attempts I couldn't find a way that it wouldn't break. Also, maybe extend the tabs for the interior of the body some so that a larger surface area can be glued/supported. This could be done by adding a 2 tabs in each direction on each side extending an inch or so into the other half of the body.

That being said, It held for 3 days and after the nylon strings stretched it held a tune until we left it in the sun. The kids and I really enjoyed this project.

The size of hole where the tuning pegs should go is half an inch, whereas it should have been 3/8th of an inch? Cant find any tuning pegs to fit the size. Anyone know how to make this work?

This looks great, but could anyone who's printed one comment on how it plays? Does it hold tune okay?

Haven't strung it up yet, but I've printed one at 88% of the original's size so I could print it in just two pieces and the scale length doesn't look right.

The 12th fret, which should be exactly half the scale length, is 147mm from the nut, implying a full scale length of 294mm, but the full scale length, from the nut to the bridge measures 306mm, suggesting the bridge is placed too far down the body for the correct scale length.

It isn't impossible, but I'm pretty I haven't screwed up by scaling the neck and body differently as the joining dovetail fits perfectly, which I wouldn't expect if I'd scaled the two parts differently.

Have other people's prints come out with a correct scale length? I.e. the 12th (last fret) is exactly half the scale length?

May 22, 2017 - Modified May 22, 2017
Solstie - in reply to Polythingmaker

Length of the string will generally not be exactly the scale length. The string length is different to adjust for intonation. I used the standard intonation adjustments on many Ukuleles.

I was slicing the UK3_v4_BODY.STL file when I saw an unsupported bridge starting at layer 148:


Any chance this can be fixed. I would really like to print it in one go :-)

Comments deleted.

Does anyone know what kind of glue I should use to put it together sturdily

Loctite worked best for me.

My printer has a maximum Z of 240mm (and the body is 241mm). If I scale the body down by .6% it will fit. My question is: if I reduce the scale of the entire thing by .6%, will that affect the sound? I'm thinking if I edit the file and reduce the thickness of the body in spots I could make up for the lost volume if need be...

If you re-scale both the body and the neck should be fine. Alternatively you can print the top and bottom files separately.

Hi, what are settings for Makerbot Replicator 5th generation that you suggest? thanks

Super cool! Thanks for sharing.

Having similar issues with previous several comments on repairing the bottom section of the neck. Tried MakePrintable and that still failed. Anyone have a successful repaired bottom section of the neck, or suggestions are much appreciate it.

Posted new repaired bottom neck file.


Has anyone tested to see if it will support guitar strings? It seems sturdy enough...

I have a small 3D printer. Can I print this in four parts or is it only two?

I have A Monoprice Select Mini V1 and i cut the model up into 8 pieces so i could print it and so far it works fine. I may post the model of the sliced one later

I'm using simplify3D as my slicer and for some reason when I prepare to print the neck-bottom piece layers 278-284 are missing. It happens to be right where the 4th fret from the bottom is. I'm printing in TimberFill so I don't really wanna print and hope for the best just to have it a wasted print. I have messed with multiple settings with layers, infill, speed, but same thing. Can someone confirm who is using simplify3D try and see if its the same for them? Thanks

Never mind! The makeprintable app built into this site is awesome. Fixed the file in 30 secs.

simplify should be able to repair mesh..?

simplify should be able to repair mesh..?

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.
Oct 28, 2016 - Modified Oct 28, 2016

I'm having problems printing the neck it says there was no modle or support at height 135.55~135.70 any help?

New bottom neck file posted.

New bottom neck file posted.

Can I get the dimensions of this? I need them for a school project and I cant open the file at school where I have to write it. I need the dimensions of everything! Diameter of circles that make the body to the size of string supports. Thanks in advance.

Anyone have any issues with the ukulele warping due to the stress of the strings?

I did when I left it in a hot car, PLA softens fairly easily :/

Can you post the link to the tuning machines you used?

hi love this im just printing it now all in 1 trying the height out on my n2 plus printer ive got a 2 foot print space on the z axies so it should be solid 8 shells and 65% infill will post if it comes out ok plus i scaled it a little more so slightly bigger

Has soon as I get my printer I will be making this.
Have you ever tried to print it in wood filament?

To print the full size neck I have to scale it to 99.9%, do you think this will still fit and work?

Going to print in woodfill and will upload the results


Reduce the scale on the body too and should be fine.

Did you ever update your guitar? Or to busy with life? lol

Comments deleted.

Can I get the dimensions of this? I need them for a school project and I cant open the file at school where I have to write it. I need the dimensions of everything! Diameter of circles that make the body to the size of string supports. Thanks in advance.

I printed the neck full scale (well 99.9%) and the full body (again 99.9% scale) and then neck is too small to slot into the mating feature on the body. Not sure how this happened. Then tried to print the neck (in the two parts provided) and that doesn't fit onto the body (1 part body). Are they two different sized ukeleles?? Very confused...

Also, for the two part body (which it's looking like I will have to print now) how to do you connect both parts together as there are no mating features. Is it just butt jointed and glued? Will the glue be strong enough?? Wanted to print both the neck and body as full parts to ensure strength but doesn't look like that possible for an ultimaker (build size - 210x210x205mm).

The butt joints work well with regular super glue. I recommend glue that doesn't set instantly so you can do some adjustments and get it perfect.

The body doesn't need to be perfect for playability, but of course looks nice if it is lined up well.

When you set your neck pieces it is very important to get the neck lined up perfectly so that the frets engage at the right time. The easiest way I have found to do this is to put the neck on a flat table with the frets down and then glue it together. This ensures the frets are lined up.

I finally completed mine and I ran into issues. No matter what I note I try to play they all sound the same as the string I am strumming. Any idea what could have gone wrong?

Did you do a multiple piece neck? If so, is the string hitting a fret at the top of the neck? If the neck isn't aligned when glued the frets will hit sometimes. If that is the case you can sand down your upper frets.

Roughly how much filament does this use? Trying to figure out if I need to order more for the print.

I don't know the exact amount. I would estimate about 0.75 kg. It seems like it uses most of a roll of filament.

Just curious if anyone one has tried printing this in wood filament?

I have never done the Uke in wood filament. Had some trouble with the guitar and wood filament. Let me know if you try it and please post results!

Apr 18, 2016 - Modified Apr 18, 2016

Well, I just printed the neck, it took me 13 hours, but I am not really sure about the outcome. I have about three centimetre shorter printer, so I had to print the two-piece neck, and it quite does not fit together. I can glue it together, but surely superglue won't hold it together, so I have to use another one. I printed it with 3mm ABS (can't get my hands on anything better...), so I will use dissolved ABS in acetone, maybe sandpaper it a little, so there is no gap. (I am really hoping that it will not break in my hand as soon as I put strings on it :D)

Don't get me wrong, this is SUPER-COOL thing, I just love it so much that I didn't wait, not even a minute, and threw it on the printer :D

Edit: Oh, wow, I just tried to bend it a little, it started making cracking noises. Yikes? :D

Edit 2: Look at me, idiot at work! Of course I missclicked and it has printed with 22% infill :D

I generally use super glue on my builds for ukuleles and guitars and haven't had any issues. That includes ABS prints.

If your having trouble with curling on the corners (is that why it doesn't fit together?) try using a raft.

Good luck with your make!

I don't know if anyone has done this and commented, but I made this simple bushing that allows a pretty nice fit with the guitar tuners that were recommended elsewhere in the comments. Here you go!


Ukulele Tuner Hole Bushing
by Scionic

What filament did you use? Could I use PLA? Does it have the necessary properties?

PLA is the recommended material.

What is the diameter of the tuning machine holes?

Also, a reminder for those of you who're in the progress of making it: make sure your knobs of the tuning machines are in the uphand side, or they'll interfere with the playing! I had to re-wind the strings once because I did it wrong

How does the upper half of the body print without supports? Should I just turn them off in Cura?

it should print fine w/o support if you've got a cooling fan for the print (not just for the notend) and/or you use a comparatively low temp. Otherwise I think you should use support

Dec 22, 2015 - Modified Dec 22, 2015

so this is a 19" ukulele.. I though it wad a standard 21" soprano uke so I started making it :(
still good design tho

The scale length is the measurement from the nut to the bridge. The scale length has the most influence on the playability and sound. The scale length of this instrument is 13 5/8" which is a standard ukulele scale length. The overall length is a little bit shorter to make it better for 3d printers.

Jan 17, 2016 - Modified Jan 17, 2016
jpan - in reply to Solstie

I see.. I made one already, thank you so much

I think the 12th fret is supposed to be at about the exact middle of the bridge and the nut

Right, now I got it. But after some research I think the distance between the frets in this design is slightly off (by about 10mm for the 12th fret I'd say), which can cause a 1/4 step inaccuracy on the 12th fret in my case... Can you check?

Awesome! Your model has been selected as one of the Top 3D Printed Christmas / Holiday Models this year. Search "Top Free 3D Printed Christmas Gift 2015 Printing Ninja" to see. (sorry thingiverse bans url addresses)

may I know what is the 4 layers mean in cura?? Is shell thickness?? thank~

Sorry for the very late reply, but yes, shells is the same thing.

What are the dimensions of each of the smaller parts? Our printer bed is 6x6x6 and I want to know if the ukulele will be able to print.

Is there a way to edit the model to make the tuner holes diameter smaller without changing the centre of the holes?

I made the holes big so that they would fit many different tuners. All the tuners I have tried so far have washers that fully cover up the holes. If your tuner's washers are too small you could 3D print some bigger ones to cover the holes. I would try this before trying to make the holes smaller.

Made one this weekend, Turned out much better than I expected. My tuning stuff and strings should be here today. Great Model!
One suggestion, between the body parts, add tabs to stop movement from left to right when gluing. Not nit picking, just a suggestions.

Thanks for the feedback. I have been meaning to add more tabs all the way around for awhile, but keep getting distracted with other projects. Will post a new version soon. Post your make when your done, would be great to see it.

I got in my knobs, I had to print up some bushings to take up the slack in the holes. First time to thread strings and such on an instrument. I bought a clip on tuner from snark at the same time I bought the strings and knobs. Cool project,
I do need to work on my gluing. I smeared some glue about 1/4 on both side of the bond area that do not look all the pleasing. If I had known how well it was going to turn out I would have used a single spool of material instead of running up the last bit of two spools I had of PLA.

Thanks for including my Ukulele in your write up. :)

I printed it with the "small printer files" on my Mendel 90 Dibond in PLA. All parts together ~20h print time. 0.2mm
Sliced with Slic3r 1.1.7
Glued together with Pattex Power-Mix (Kraft-Mix) 5 min.
Guitar Mechanics from China and Ukulele Nylon Strings from D'Addario.
Sound is clear. Nice instrument.
Pictures will follow.
Thank you for the design.

What is a good fill percentage?

50% on both is good. Use a perimeter of 4. Updated the instructions.

What tuning pegs did everyone use?

I am printing this with PLA, and while printing the neck, the frets sag down, and the frets can't be printed. Is there any way to counteract this? Should I print with supports?

Have you got a cooling fan pointed at the nozzle? With PLA it prevents issues such as the one you describe.

Yeah I have a fan on the nozzle.

Are the frets easy to distinguish when playing? Are they raised?

The frets are raised.

Can someone tell me the diameter of the sound hole? Great build btw!

around 45mm

how much filament did it use?

Mine took around 350g of filament and now weighs 450g with strings and machine heads. It took 45 hr in total to print.

This is freaking beautiful! Thank you so much!!!

How much filiment does it take? How heavy is it when done? I'm ordering glow in the dark filiment for it and need to know how much to order. Thank you. Will upload pics when done.

Mine took around 350g of filament and now weighs 450g with strings and machine heads. It took 45 hr in total to print.

Thank you so much. I ended up ordering half a kilogram and hoped it would be enough. Thanks again!

Has anyone had luck with printable tuning pegs? I have seen a few files on thingiverse, but I don't see how they would hold their tension with just friction.

I'd say don't print your peg. They're among the most essential parts that decide you product's playability

The news files work, but now slicer decides to fill all the top body file, only me?

I just tried it in Slic3r and didn't see any issues.

Maybe you can try a different software to try and generate the path? I like using both Slic3r and KISS.

I am having a lot of trouble slicing the bottom part of the body. I've used Slic3r, Kisslicer and Skeinforge but none work. Slic3r decides to fill in a large portion of the body while the other 2 cant even create a solid model. Would someone be able to provide me with working Gcode for a layer thickness of 0.4mm?

I posted a new file (repairedv2). Let me know if that one works for you. Thanks,

It does thanks. I also stumbled across the supplemental files remix which works as well. I will post a picture once its done Cheers!

Comments deleted.
Sep 22, 2014 - Modified Sep 22, 2014

Here's my first shot, warts and all! I like it a lot, but it needs (read "I need") some work: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:94870

Playable Ukulele - Printable w/ no Supports

Nice work. Like the spikes!

Starting my first print of this one today. I've done several successful prints of both downloaded designs and my own designs. I use tinkercad for some quick edits. Does anybody know why the neck-bottom STL renders with these extra artifacts near the bottom frets in Tinkercad? I don't see these in any other tool: http://imgur.com/UQH14HK

That's strange. I don't use tinckercad much and not sure why those extra boxes are making it into the model. Are you able to do a quick boolean and remove them?

I'm afraid you've caught me with my CAD-pants down: I'm not sure what "doing a quick boolean" on an STL means.

FWIW, I've now printed the two neck pieces with solid ABS, and they look beautiful! I added spikes to the top of the headstock, because punk rock. I'll post my make when the whole thing is done.

A boolean is just subtracting one shape from another.

Glad the neck worked out for you! Would be great to see it once you're done!

I'm printing the last piece of the body tonight. Total print time should be about 16 hours once it's done. There was a bit of layer separation on the top part of the body. I've upped the extruder temperature to fight that on the bottom piece, and kinda-sorta-filled them in with ABS juice.

I've never printed anything this big and hollow before, so I'm still learning what temps this cheap ABS I have needs for good inter-layer adhesion.

Your print speed is good which will help a lot. Printing with ABS on large parts can be difficult. I had to cover my printer and turn my heated plate way up to keep it hot in the make-shift chamber. Good luck!

I am having a problem with the top of the neck getting completed. The first time the piece barely reached the first set of peg holes and the structure toppled. I added a "brim" and it held a bit taller (past the first set of holes) but then destabilized at the start of the second set of peg holes. Any suggestions?

What material are you using? Is each layer sufficiently cooled before the next layer?

I am using PLA filament. And since I am new to this whole 3D printing process, I must admit I do not know where to look for the cooling information you requested? I am using Cura to open the stl files and generate the gCode and I am using Repetiere to import the gCode onto it and complete the printing process. So, at what stage should I look for the cooling between layers? Sorry, a newby at this. By the way, all other parts printed well without a hitch (the top of the main body had a curved base for some reason) and I thank you greatly on a job superbly done with all the codes and files!

I am not sure how your print is failing.... If the whole part is falling over then try adding some blue masking tape or any other of the solutions on the internet to your build plate. This will ensure your first layer sticks and your part will not fall over.

If the part is staying up but losing definition (new layers are just melting together) at the holes then try slowing the printer down or adding a fan.

I am having problems printing using slic3r, what program are you using?

I usually use KISS, but have checked them in slic3r. Which file is having the issue?

should there be a honycomb infill inside the whole thing, or would that ruin the acoustics?

The neck should have a fill (I do 50% for strength, but I think less would be fine per some of the other makes). The body math is already set up with walls and won't print with the entire body filled. When I print the body I use a high fill rate. I think the lowest I have ever done is 50%, but usually I do 100%.

Comments deleted.

Two questions.
Can you send me the sketch up file?
What type of filament is better? PLA or ABS?
Conglaturations for the design, i like it a lot

Thanks for the questions.
Sorry, I don't plan on sharing the math. I am working on new designs which will be posted soon. Stay tuned! Let me know if you have a specific suggestion and I might be able to incorporate it into the second version.
I think ABS might sounds little better... But PLA is a lot easier to print. The body will crack with ABS unless you have a enclosed printer with an extra heater.

could this be printed on the solidoodle 2?

do you think you could send me the sketchup file for the bottom half of the neck so i can remove the letters?

What tuning device did you use?

I usually just tune by ear and a youtube video which has the proper tuning for reference... but I have also used audio guitar tuners successfully.

Solstie, any issue on your part if I remove the ILH mark on the neck for my print?

That's no problem. Hope to see your make soon! :)

Out of curiosity, why is the ILH there? What's it mean?

Nothing special, just my initials. I put them on all my guitar/ukulele designs in the same spot with same block lettering even before 3D printing.

Sweet. Since you don't mind us removing it, I'm hoping to put my own on there! Although I'm having a bit of trouble filling in the letters in Tinkercad...

i really want to build this but first i want to know do i want to build the one with the fully body then a full neck or the one where its half a body at a time and half a neck sooner you can reply the best thanks

Its an easy answer. It all depends on your printer, will the complete body fit on your build platform? For me, with a Replicator 2X it wouldn't, so I used the half parts and then glue them together.

I tried doing that but the top half was bigger than the bottom half how would i scale to make them fit together?

Hi, i am having some problems with the file, the program just keeps processing and thinking and doesn't print i already left it over night and didn't do anything, does any one has encounter the same problem?

Sometimes with very large files on my old setup I would have this happen. I basically was running out of memory. If you're running from a computer and your exceeding your RAM, make sure your disk space is not fragmented (lots of tutorials on google on ways to improve).

Any ideas on adding some material layers inside to improve the sound?

I am having problem with the neck the two pieces not seem to flush together because of that bump and slot. Any ideas?

Yes. wait a few minutes for me to upload my sleeve that i have just printed out.

what is the file called?

Look for Joe9099's files in the remix tab. It has the spacers for the sleeves.

Which type of strings and pegs have you used and where can I buy them? Thanks!

No matter what you get, make sure you get them from amazon. The ones Solstie linked in the description look great. I made the mistake of bringing my half finished print into Guitar Center, (and I'll be honest, kinda showing it off), and i was lazy enough to buy $45 guitar tuners... :P. But not all bad, because they are large enough to fit the hole perfectly. And they seem good quality.

I prefer guitar tuning pegs. They are easier to tighten down well, but ukulele worm style machines work too. Theystrings you need are soprano nylon ukulele strings.

I am almost done with this build, and i am on the last part, which for me is the bottom part of the body. However, i have tried printing it several times, both with and without support, and it seems to always fail at the exact same time, which is about 25 minutes in. I know it isn't the bed leveling, and i have tried repairing the file in Netfabb, and it still hasn't helped. Anyone maybe know why? I would really like to finish my Uke as soon as possible!

repairing the file in Netfabb has helped me, so if you would like, I will share the x3g file with you: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Vus2g_jdsNWTlxYXpYUzliVEk/edit?usp=sharinghttps://drive.google.com/file/...

Oh quick question. What layer height is this set to? I just started printing it, and 11 minutes in it still says 0%...Getting worried because i don't know how much plastic i have to spare.

I have it set to .25 mm, which is my default. Would you like it bigger?

No that should be fine! I'll give it a try this week

Thanks! i will give this a try and report back how it goes.

I understand where the facets are. The object files have to be transferred into a REAL CAD package. Also...
My neck snapped. Having the layers perpendicular to the neck is actually not the optimal. I will take the full neck part and chop the head off then print it on one side so the layers are length wise to the neck. The head will print face down. The other issue I had was the holes for the tuning pegs were much larger then needed and i had to add fill in plugs.

Any chance we can get the original model files so we can import, increase res then slice with less facets?

The problem is the model itself has the issue (not a resolution issue from stl conversion). I need to redo the body to get rid of the facets.

Just a quick question on strings, I ordered some black Nylon ones, they say they are EBGD then I saw you also get GCEA strings, did I get the wrong ones?

A standard Ukulele has GCEA (or A is 4th string). The EBGD strings are probably for a larger Ukulele and to get it properly tuned you might have to pull them really tight (wouldn't recommend it for your print).

I made a plate of this for all 4 parts. 100% fill and 0.2 layer height. This is the largest and longest print I've done - 77m of filament and 30 hours. Unfortunately the body parts top and bottom cracked in about 10 places each, I've never seen a print fail like this before. Its a shame.

You mean they cracked while printing of after the strings were put on?

I left it printing at my office over the weekend and all looked ok during the first few hours. I watched it printing on webcam and noticed some gaps, when I came in this morning there were many gaps. It looks the same as the 4th pic here http://www.thingiverse.com/make:74326http://www.thingiverse.com/mak...

Playable Ukulele - Printable w/ no Supports

Ooooh.. hmm.. never had that happen before. I haven't tried printing anything in abs yet, so that's probably why. Is that caused by warping?

I will try and add some more ribs and post. Delamination is why I added them in the first place... The more I added the better it got. Faster print speed at the widest section I believe helps too. PeterBelfanti (comments below) is working on a thicker model which might solve the issue too. ABS in general is much harder material to print for the body vs. PLA. You could try and switch to PLA for the body with the current design too.

I finally got this printed. I made the ribs in the bottom a little wider not sure if this helped as I also added a big cardboard box around my printer a Mendel90 (no enclosure), this kept it nice and warm as it printed. It printed with a couple of minor gaps that I filled with thick ABS juice as advised by Amplivibe. Then I printed the top without any changes, this also printed really well with even less gaps, like 2 minor ones easily fixed. I then used my presto cooker to acetone vapour bath them giving it a nice shiny look! I will upload a pic to the made section now! I have the strings just need the tuning pegs, I can't wait to attempt to play this. Thanks Solstie for such a great thing! :)

I have now printed the complete ukulele, waiting for strings and machine heads... On assembling, I have found that the lugs on the body and neck don't quite match. They are too small to lock together correctly. Has anyone else found this? I'll draw up an adapter to take up the extra space...

I have redesigned the entire body because I was having delimitation problems with the body. I will post my version of the body as soon as it finishes printing today. I addressed the fitment of the lugs on the body and neck as well to take up the slop. Wall thickness of my design is 4.5mm much thicker than the original and prints a more solid shell, slower yes.. but I couldn't get the original to print at it's thickness.

Sorry about all your troubles printing it. I look forward to seeing your re-mix!

Solstie, no worries.. It's probably my setup and or material choice.. ABS may not be the right one.. Think I'll try it in PLA. The neck printed perfectly! but I'm making a mod to adapt the tuning machines available at my local guitar center. I will post that as well. Hope you don't mind me adding (with credit to you) your neck in my posting. Thanks for your work on this!

Yeah I saw this when I was putting it together too, though it wasn't a problem after everything was glued.

On repetier I get error messages for the quarter parts, but I can still generate good gcode except for the the bottom half of the body. Anyone know slicers that will work?

I "fixed" the bottom part using some online service. Now it slic3s fine! See: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:305627http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Supplemental files for the Playable Ukulele

That's awesome, thank you!

I tried it on Slic3r and had the same issue. I put a new file up. Try it and let me know if any issues. It is still not manifold (I can't find the issue....), but this one seems to generate good code.

Hmm... For me it makes no different. The gcode map still shows a tall filled-in box with some stray bits on the sides. Maybe it's the overlapping facets error?

I'm having a very very hard time getting this to print without cracking/and delamination. 4 prints and none of them have had success with the body. Printing on a Airwolf3d Hd, in temperature controlled room, using ABS 245 head, 120 base. 40% fill with 1 perimeter. Tried 100% fill and others with no luck.
Wish the wall thickness was thicker. Don't know what to do to prevent delamination.

I can try and make a thicker one. The sounds will degrade a little with thicker walls. Have you tired speeding up the print? This will help keep the temperature up between layers which I believe is causing the issue.

I've been on tech support with airwolf all week over this.. 4 attempts at building the body keeps delaminating in the widest sections of the body. I may just model a body myself in Pro/e today. Great design, just think I can bang it out in a few minutes with a thicker. I'll send you an .stl of the thicker wall version.

wow kudos to you that sounds great

Hello! If we're building it from smaller pieces, what glue do you recommend, or any glue at all?

I have had good luck with a lot of different super glues. I would suggest buying a few brands and experiment with scrap PLA or ABS.

I'm trying J-B weld 24 hr epoxy and I'll see how that goes.

I get non-manifold errors on all 4 split drawings.... anyone else having this issue??

I checked a few different slicers and you're right some of them show manifold errors. I went ahead and generated the gcode though and the tool path looks good even for the slicers showing the manifold error, so I think shouldn't be an issue. Let me know if that is not the case.

Any chance you have a link for where we can get the tuning pegs?

Below link is an example of a tuning machine that would work. They are guitar tuning machines which have an advantage of a piece that screws from the top with a washer that have a nice finished look with the prints. Any Ukulele or Guitar tuning machine should work as long as it is seperate heads and worm style tuners (not the fritction pegs).

Printing now... excited to see how it turns out... Oh and I was wondering if anyone has considered doing this in the new WOOD PLA? http://amzn.com/B00GTY3Z9Ehttp://amzn.com/B00GTY3Z9E I want to buy a roll but don't have a .5mm extruder nozzle.. everyone seems sold out..

sweet sounding ukulele, man! My to print list is getting too long and I have too little time....

Ukuleles are a great introduction to playing music. I think more people should give it a try! Thanks Thingiverse.

What is the height of the print?

Great model and nice print!

Amazing model, great job! Is there any way you could upload a higher resolution version of the STL files? It seems the back has very few curves causing a faceted look. It think it would look so nice and smooth with a higher poly count.

Unfortunately, the problem is the model itself... this was my first project in sketchup and I ended up with the facets. If someone knows how to smooth them out, I am more than willing to give it a try.

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I'm not a sketchup expert either (I use SolidWorks). I did some Google searching and found this:
Sketchup is a “polygonal surface modeling” program, which means that models are made from flat polygon faces – flat surfaces and curves alike. Curves are approximated using many flat faces – for example the default circle in Sketchup has 24 sides. You can see this clearly by turning on Hidden Geometry (View > Hidden Geometry) while looking at a curved surface. Sketchup uses a visual smoothing technique to make the flat segments look like a smooth curve on the computer screen, but when you 3D print a curved surface, the individual faces (or facets) may be visible.
The good news is that the more faces a curve is made of, the smoother it becomes. When using the arc or circle tools, you can set the number of segments to whatever you need. You should increase the number of segments so each individual segment is about 1/32” (1mm) long. Depending on your printer and the material you’re using, the number of segments needed will vary, but for smooth parts this is a good rule of thumb.
From this link:
But that sounds like you would maybe have to re-do parts of the model, unless Sketchup is parametric. Thanks anyway!

*cannot print standing up... too tall...

Check out the new files which have been sectioned in half and tabs added for easy glueing.

What is the height of the print?

I had to chop the model too. I didn't make any special joints to mate the parts though, just straight cuts. Then, I just super glued everything together and it works fine. you have to make sure you dont get any warping though cause then, the mating surfaces wont fit as well. If you can print in ABS, then you could even glue everything together with ABS slurry

What software do you use to chop models?

I used netfabb

Thanks for posting your make. Looks great!

No problem and thanks. This was a nice break from printing all those calibration pieces haha.

will someone upload a file that is on its side? I can print with replicator 2...

I can probably do it for you. How do you want it? Which side do you want on the bottom? if you don't want to wait you could just use netfabb. It's free.

Nice! What made you choose the Howe-Orme concept?

I actually wasn't familiar with Howe-Orme. The curved shape I did because I was getting a lot less delamination and warping vs. complete flat faces. The longitudinal struts (also part of Howe-Orme concept?) was due to printing it vertically and were added again to try and prevent delamination.

It's hard to say why H-O did the bracing that way. The curve on the top is stiff, the bracing might be there for tone; most who have vintage H-O would never modify the instrument and reproduction have their own flair on brace design.

That sounds really good.

Nice touch using the black strings.

How tall of a z-axis do you need to print this?

Tallest part is about 274 mm.

This is very well done. For those of us with printers that won't reach that high, possibly the body could be split through the waist, and printed in two parts. For the neck, you could print it on its side (frets aligned to vertical) without too much support, but in that orientation the frets could end up rough. Maybe just print it fretboard face down and clean up with sandpaper. Or slice the whole fretboard off as a separate part.

can i scale it simply down with cura?
than its smaller but it works hm?

I think you're right for the body. Should be easy to split. For the neck I would try and print vertically and split in the middle again with a connection interface (male/female connection overlap).

Do you know any software that make that type of connection easy to do?