Delidder.Turbo² - Intel CPU delidding tool (& v1)

by shadimar69 Dec 2, 2017
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It might sound like an odd question but do you prefer V1 or V2?

Does someone know if the tool can delid also a XEON 1366?

Printed one out of PETG but forgot to use 100% infill. After putting a great amount of force and even denting my quarter. The print cracked along the center. LOL. Oh well, I ended up just using a razor to delid my 8700k.

I have a 8700k too and even with 100% PLA I broke the tool. Maybe the adhesive on this CPU is really strong? Well, I'll go with the razor blade, just like you

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Just be careful as I'm sure that you are aware of.

Thank you for your concern. It turned out well and it was way easier than I thought. :)

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That's awesome. Yeah, PETG is extremely strong and the fact that my coins were bent and dented tells me that the 8700k has a stronger bond than usual. A sharp razor made quick work of it though. I honestly think that the razor is safer. I was afraid that enough force to bend coins would be bad for the PCB.

I have made this delidder and i already delid 2 CPU successfully. However, i think a part of this tool can be hardened with maybe another 1cent coin :)
If i had to delid more CPU, i think the PCB could be pushed inside the material. After 2 relid, the PCB was already "inside" the delidder for maybe about 1/4mm, almost nothing, but I had to pull it back a little bit to extract the CPU off.
In red, the part where my CPU was stuck. It can easily be removed, but after more delid, it could be harder.

try to cut a 1mm with a cutter and add a little peace of aluminium or stainless steal (removable) to bolster the delidder.

Before attacking my own CPU I used it with an old Core Duo E8400. After delidding, I noticed that the chip is soldered to the IHS. That explains the enormous force I had to exert. Now we know that even soldered CPU's are headable, however I don't recommend it anyways. ;-)
Here are some Pics: https://imgur.com/a/pP20w50

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Does the 8700K is compatible ?
I think yes but not sure

does it work for skylake x? does not look like it will ... :) would be nice if you could make one for 2066

Możesz dodać płytkę do dopasowania centralnie IHS z PCB?

When I re-glued my IHS back on I just lined it up by eye. I do see the logic in a realigning tool, however I am not sure printing tolerance would line up every IHS the same. :(

Gdzie jest najnowsza wersja?

Hi, The current version as of 22nd January 2018 is the Delidder.Turbo². I have used this version 2 and delidded my i7-8700k as well as clamped/siliconed my IHS back on. I will release a video/photos and proof of print at some stage soon. There is a few tolerances I want to change in the worker and scaling to make the whole piece print/function better. However in its current version, it is functional and just requires a little sanding and lubricant on the rails.

Wydrukowałem i nie potrzeba żadnego smaru ani szlifowania :D Zastosuj podpory typu linia. Dzięki.

Awesome! I am glad the print came out well! Good luck with your delid. I was able to drop 20 degrees C (Before:96 degrees to After:76 degrees C @ Peak load, 5GHz, 1.36V LLC7) with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. :)

Hi, not printred it yet, but i has prepared the gcode.
My question is... it can be redone shorter?
To me seems to have excessive lenght for the purpose, the espace between the nut and the procesor hole and in the other side of the processor, making it bigger in volume, printing cost and storage space. There is any especific reason for this zones of de desing to be like they are?
Txs and nice job!
PS: im working in a redone version of the MSI delid die guard for 115x to make it 3D print friendly, as the original version is meant to be made on aluminum and the printed version will fail soon than after.

Hi Karl,
I based mine on the original made by Dawnaur. The core size of this is from these dimensions. I do not believe this style of delidder can be redone shorter. If you shrink or shorten anything you will adversely effect the structural integrity of the whole piece. It could break during the delid/reassembly process. I want it to be big, strong, and waste my space! =Þ
I just got my printer up and running today so I will print a V² at some stage soon. :)

Hi, just for testing, but i tried tondo my own remix of this, its done from the scratch by me. When i printed i will test with an old haswell.
Not 100% sure but looks like 35-40÷ smaller. I Hope that ir works ;D

Looks really nice mate. Would be curious to see if it can handle the sheering force required. :)

I had finished the basic design, so i can probably print it and make it work, but im tinkering with the design trying to make the same with swapable processor profiles so it can be used with different pcb height without issue aka skylake and cofee lake.

That was the beauty of Dawnaur's. It works on so many different Intel chips all in the one style. Even if it is bigger, its universal and would save you from printing several types. If you want a smaller body, you can use my 'worker' on Dawnaur's main body. :)

Well, that could be beauty but im not following that Path. My worker fits the ihs like a condom ;P
Will be paired with the spacer to adapt the PCB height to ensure that is flat and well aligned with the base.
The first unit id ok the way.
Any sugestion os welcome

Hi Gabriel,

Looks very cool from an engineering perspective. Few to many components for my taste as they all have to go together just right to work.
I hope to make something simple using 'KISS' (Keep It Simple Stupid) method. Make it work, then make it look cool. =Þ

Ok so I tried to edit my post and it's flagged for moderation, this site flags things so quickly it's extremely frustrating. I'll try to post again and hope you see it.

So I found the same issue you did, that the worker hit the roof on the main body. I found a second problem, that with the coin inserted and poking out of the top of the worker, it's going to REALLY hit the roof haha. Here's a picture of the problem:

I also had an idea that you might be interested to try, where you remove the roof piece from the main body, and bring it over to the "worker." That way the "worker" piece does everything, and it removes the fitment problems. I've included a super rough Photoshop picture of my idea: https://i.imgur.com/ZD7VdZ1.jpg

I don't know how to model these things yet or I would make it, if you'd like to use the idea, please do! Thanks man. :)

Hey Chris,

Just uploaded the Top Mount Coin Slot 'Worker' version for you. You should be able to slide this in the main body, and place the coin in easily. The coin will still pop out the top, however will be usable! :)

Thank you for attempting this and giving actionable feedback! I want to give you something that functions first. That being said I do like and want to entertain the idea of shifting the clamping mechanism to the worker part.

What I am working on now for you, is another 'worker' piece that will work(see what I did there) for your existing body so that you don't have to re-print the whole body again. I will make it so the coin can be dropped in from the top after insertion into position in the main body. This should elevate any more height clashes. Give me a few minutes build and I will upload that.

Moving forward, I will also redo the body and worker to attempt a worker/clamping system. (Brilliant idea BTW...) :)

I guess the last thing I would ask for those of us in the US (not sure where you're from) is if you could maybe make the coin slot a little bigger? A US penny (1 cent) is way too big, a dime (10 cents) is even too big. I ended up using 2 small washers shoved into there, had to use a utility knife to widen it a bit still. Thanks man.

Don't get me wrong, every once in a great while I find a Canadian coin or even more rarely a European coin in with my change, but not often and I don't keep them unfortunately.

EDIT: New Worker with 22mm x 2mm coin slot added as an option.

Drill a hole from where you are through the earth and you will end up down under where I am! =Þ I will create a new coin hole version that has a 22mm by 2mm coin slot. You will be able to fit a penny or dime in there.

I want to still make the worker the main part that does the clamping as well. Will make the whole piece stronger and easier/faster to print the whole device without the 'bridge' on the existing body. This will be revision 2. Give me a little time to play with the model :)

Worked by the way, just delidded. I’ll let you know if I end up reattaching. Everyone keeps telling me to leave it loose, I guess the 8700k gets better temps when the IHS is loose. Thanks!

Wooooooooo000000OOOoooo! Awesome news Chris! :) Glad everything worked for you.

Oh duh, lol that’s way easier. You don’t have to make a completely different version man.

Hey Chris,
Check out the Delidder.Turbo² with twice the turbos! ;)

Well I am printing this right now, just got my 8700k in. I'm about to run to the hardware store to get the couple pieces of hardware it needs. Wish me luck, I'll report back how it goes. Thanks for this man! Really nice looking delid tool.

Hi gamertaboo,
I just noticed with the clamping bridge will stop the 'worker' part from being able to slide in from the end. Apologies mate. I will modify the workers height slightly so that it will fit and re-upload.
Just remade the Worker model in a slightly smaller stature so that it fits. Please download "Delidder.TurboV1-WorkersSmallerX.stl" and try this. :)

Hahaha I was just about to message you that, I found the same problem. Thought maybe I did something wrong when I printed it lol.

There is one other problem, unless the changes you made also fix this, but after inserting the coin to reinforce where the screw pushes the worker, it sticks out of the top in order to be flush with the bottom. With the coin in it will not go under the roof you have on the main part. I'm including a picture to hopefully show you what I mean.

Now I took 20 minutes and made a VERY rough draft picture of a slightly different version of your delidding tool. What it does is remove the roof from the main body (eliminating these issues), and just moves it over to the "worker" part. I think it would still work?

But I personally don't know how to model these things yet so if I try to make this thing it's going to take forever. If you have the time and want to use my idea by all means please do! If not, and you'd rather change yours some more that is also cool. Either way thank you for what you've done so far.

Hi gamertaboo,
Good luck with the print mate. I am still waiting for my printer so I can build and delid my 8700k. (one of the other reasons I remixed this)
Looking forward to photos of the build. ;)

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Hy mi friend how about the 1151?

Hi gabrielmenegattireis,

This is the same primary chassis as Dawnaur's, so Yes it will work on socket 1151.

This is for relid too?

Yes it is! Created a bridge over the top of the CPU so that you can clamp the IHS back on after you have Delidded done the clean/liquid metal/silicon. ;)

So does this have the spot to clamp it back down to reattach the IHS? Though to be honest I'm hearing temps are MUCH better if you don't reattach the IHS.

Hi gamertaboo,

Yes it does. That was the main reason I made it. :)