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I'm super happy with the new Pro 2 model. The footage is now 30% smoother than the original Pro 1 model!
I've made a number of videos on the stabilizer below;-
Features:- https://youtu.be/ydT-I7Mbt4o
Show-reel :- https://youtu.be/YFTraoByCp4
DIY video :- https://youtu.be/rivhUJsmm-I
Note: this is for the Compact Pro but for the most part it's identical.
DIY Spring changing video:- https://youtu.be/gBHZEe3udI8
Note: As with all of my designs that are also sold commercially, there's a small chance that it will only be available for a limited time so make sure you download while it's here :)
The dreaded 'gimbal bob' will be a thing of the past with the silky smooth footage you'll get with the new full size Pro 2 Model 4th Axis Camera Stabilizer!
On the outside it’s got the same Pro 1 looks but that’s where the comparison ends. Every part has been tweaked and re-designed to squeeze every last bit of silky smooth goodness out of it.
The major changes in the new Pro 2 model are:-
- It now floats effortlessly on 18 high quality bearings
- The fluid damping has now gone crazy smooth with the addition of a new high tech synthetic damping gel
- The geometry has been further tweaked for even softer load support
I think the biggest thing for me is that I can take everything I need for a shoot, lights, audio recorder and field monitor and it all fits in a backpack so there’s no need for an assistant and with my Zhiyun Remote mounted in the optional handle I can do away with a tripod and slider. But the real biggie is that you’ll be hard pressed to see the difference between footage shot on the new Pro 2 rig and the footage shot on a system totalling many thousands.
Some other important features;-
- It’s built extra tough for the rigours of Pro use
- It now includes a built in stand so you can rest your arms between takes
- It’s adaptable with an ever growing eco-system of add ons for individualizing your rig
- It’s been designed to be quiet so your audio won’t be ruined by the creaks and squeaks that those cheap Z stabilizers have.
- And you don’t need a 10 pound padded shipping case to move it around. It all fits in a backpack!
- You can leave the tools at home with tool-less adjustments in only seconds, not minutes
- Pros can attach everything they need to your rig with 12 attachment points
- And there’s 3 load springs to choose from for payloads from 2 to 10 pounds (0.9 to 4.5kg)
- Dual independent adjustable fluid damping - from hard action to soft shots
- Dual independent load adjusters to adapt to your rig
- Adjust in seconds from high shot to upright to mid height to briefcase mode
- Get buttery smooth footage with ease
Specifications
Weight 2.8 pounds (1.27kg)
Operating Temperatures -10C to 50C (14F-120F)
Payloads (Camera, gimbal and any extras)
945 Springs - light 2 to 5.5 pounds (0.9 to 2.5kg)
371 Springs - medium 2.9 to 6.6 pounds (1.3 to 3kg)
218 Springs - heavy 5 to 10 pounds (2.3 to 4.5kg)
You can check out my other designs here:-
https://www.thingiverse.com/ScottyMakesStuff/designs
You can see all my videos on my YouTube Channel, ScottyMakesStuff here:-
https://www.youtube.com/c/ScottyMakesStuff
https://twitter.com/ScottyMakesStuf
https://www.instagram.com/scottymakesstuff/
Print Settings
Notes:
To start, there are a lot of parts and each has specific instruction listed below. I suggest printing models in the orientation supplied. As this is a model that uses close tolerances (less than 0.2mm) your printer will have to be calibrated correctly or you'll have problems.
I use the triangular infill as it's good and strong. With my printers running at normal speeds and Simplify3D slicing I find all parts need little to no post printing work and fit perfectly... don't rush it! I print mine in an improved PLA. This is good to 55C (130F) degrees so don't leave it in a car on a very hot day... but the same should be said of any camera equipment so I think improved PLA will be best for 95% of you. You can try other filaments such as PETG, ABS or PC but you'd want to have a special set up and be a pro at getting those to work flawlessly.
It's important to print the rosettes at a fine layer height as these will mesh together and as such needs to be as accurate as possible. I printed mine at 0.10mm. Better still, if your slicer can print variable layer heights then you can print fine layers where it's needed and then speed up your prints significantly.
GimbalSupport
Settings: 0.20mm layers, 3 perimeters, 25% fill, Supports,
There's inserted nuts in this part that you'll need to tee up in your gcode. Note: You can't have supports in the nut void. Just follow the instructions as per the handles below. M600 is defintely the easiest solution.
SpringAdjust
Settings: 0.08mm - 0.20mm layers (see below), 4 perimeters, 25% fill, Supports
It's important to print the rosettes at a fine layer height as these will mesh together and as such needs to be as accurate as possible. I printed mine at 0.10mm. Better still, if your slicer can print variable layer heights then you can print fine layers where it's needed and then speed up your prints significantly. In that case I'd suggest printing all but the rosette at 0.20mm to 0.30mm and printing just the rosette at 0.08mm.
Handles
Settings: 0.10 - 0.3mm layers (see below), 4 perimeters, 25% fill, Supports, has a captured nut in each handle base
I print mine at 0.30mm and when I get to the rosette I change the layer height to 0.10mm and then back to 0.3mm after 2mm of printing the rosette
The handles have captured bolts that will need to be inserted during the print. You can make sure you're there to pause the print and drop the nuts in or you could get a little funky with some gcode to stop the print for you. I typically use the free notepad++ to add some simple code to the gcode file just right before the covering layer is printed. Your printer will wait at this point until you hit resume. This is some example code (Note: please add X & Y coordinates to suit your print so that the print head gets out of the way for you) ;
; layer (whatever layer your print comes to), Z = 9.6 (depending on your print layer height the handle will need to be about this height when it stops). Just scroll through the layers to see when the capping layer is laid down and make sure you stop the print before that that capping layer prints.
; Add Nuts
M117 Add the nuts Scotty ; displays the message on your printer
G1 X(add your X coord here) Y(add your Y coord here) F8000 ; move out of way - you will need to work yours out relative to your print
M72 @pause ; pauses and plays the pause tune
M0
; inner perimeter
Alternatively the 'M600' change filament command works on many Marlin run printers. It's simple as all you need to add is a line with 'M600' in it and will often move the print head out of the way (depending on your printer). The only downside is that you will need to load the filament again.
I print mine at 0.30mm and when I get to the rosette I change the layer height to 0.10mm and then back to 0.3mm after 2mm of printing the rosette
SpringKnob & DampeningKnob
Settings: 0.15 to 0.20 mm layers , 3-4 perimeters, 25% fill
These two need to be printed in two parts. You need to print the top of the knob down to the start of the hole for the bolt head. Then you need print the other half with supports. Each slicer does this differently but there's plenty of online info about '3D printing in two halves'. Then I insert the bolt and use a 3D printing pen to fill the void making sure I go a little over the top. I then squeeze the lid down and hold it until it solidifies. You could use you printer to just extrude if you don't have a 3D pen. The other option is epoxy.
Note: These comes in the DIY pack already attached to bolts and nuts
GimbalScrewKnob & HandleKnob
Settings: 0.15 to 0.20 mm layers , 3 perimeters, 25% fill, No Supports
Note: These comes in the DIY pack already attached to bolts and nuts
TopArm and BottomArm
Settings: 0.15 to 0.20 mm layers , 3-4 perimeters, 25% fill, Supports
DamperDynamicSide & DamperStaticSide
Settings: 0.15 to 0.20 mm layers , 3 perimeters, 25% fill, Supports
The dynamic side will also need to be thread tapped with a 6mm tap. You cam use a 6mm bolt but the end result isn't as easy to turn.
Note: This comes in the DIY pack already tapped and pre filled with high tech damping gel
Post-Printing
The DIY Parts for the Pro 2 Kit has all the following parts:-
Note: You'll need to be a confident 3D printer with a accurately calibrated printer to print the main parts successfully.
16 x 6x13x5mm Steel bearings
2 x 6x10x3mm flanged steel bearing
2 x Poly Carbonate bolt runner with inserted brass nut
2 x Fluid damping cartridge - tapped and already filled with damping fluid
2 x springs (see description for details about the 3 available springs to choose from)
2 x M6 x 75mm SS Spring tension bolt mounted in knob
2 x M6 x 75mm SS Damping Adjustment bolt mounted in knob
2 x Rosette knobs with inserted M6 nut
1 x 1/4-20 x 3/4 in bolt mounted in gimbal attachment wheel
6 x 1/4 - 20 nuts for gimbal support and handle ends
1 x M6 x 35mm bolt mounted in Quad Pod knob
1 x M6 Socket
1 x 5mm allen key
6 x M6 Nylock nuts
2 x M6 x 35mm Stainless Steel bolts for rosettes
8 x M6 x 25mm socket head bolts
2 x M6 x 60mm socket head bolt
1 x sachet of bolt runner lubricant
1 x sachet of slide-way lubricant