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Smart One Handed Bottle Opener

by Kart5a, published

Smart One Handed Bottle Opener by Kart5a Mar 11, 2014
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139940Views 37219Downloads Found in Kitchen & Dining

Summary

THIS IS NOT INVENTED BY ME. THIS IS INVENTED BY MARK MANGER. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND TO VISIT GROPENER WEBSITE: " https://www.gropener.com/ ". THERE YOU CAN BUY THE ORIGINAL BOTTLE OPENER MADE IN ALUMINUM. <<<

GrOpener is the creation of Mark Manger, an Applied Artist from Denver, Colorado. Inspired by the stick & screw openers Mark encountered in Africa in the 1990′s, the GrOpener uses the same leverage principle, but in a form that allows a bottle to be opened through the act of grabbing it. <<<


This is super easy to print!

Project video in Finnish (UPDATE: SUBTITLES IN ENGLISH): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gM_iu6JYxDA

PRINT WITH SUPPORT MATERIAL (there is a little overhang!)

My first ever 3D creation!

Version 4 (updated 23.6.14):
Now there is 4 different editions:

  • Edition one: Basic OHBO
  • Edition two: OHBO with a magnet.
  • Edition three: OHBO with a coin.
  • Edition four: OHBO with a magnet and a coin.
    BTW: The back of the OHBO is for cans! Just stick the tail under the clip of the can to open it!

Magnets from dx.com (here is a link: http://www.dx.com/p/10050078w-round-ndfeb-magnets-silver-50-pcs-239991)

Coin is a 1cent euro coin.

You will also need some super glue if you are printing edition 2,3 or 4.

All editions are right scaled and tested. At the slicing software rotation of the object is only required. I recommend to print with 100% infill (layer height 0.2mm) but my 20% infill opener is also tough enough to open a bottle!

My prints are made of PLA, PLA/PHA and XT plastics! I like to see your prints of this model!
visit: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/smart-one-handed-bottle-opener-by-kart5a

Instructions

Printing tips:
Print always with support touching build plate! (There is a little overhang). I prefer to print this model with 100% infill.

Material:
This model works well with many of plastics. I have tried PLA, Colorfabb PLA/PHA and Colorfabb XT (copolyester). ABS should work well as well but it might be a little too flexible (a part of the opening force goes to flexing so the opening process requires more force). I think PLA is awesome material to choose for this print!

Steps:

  1. Print
  2. Glue the coin and the magnet or either. (Edition 2,3 and 4)
  3. Add a keychain or some string to the hole.

TIP: Glue the coin as well as possible. The product has to be very solid. It won't break unless it is not solid enough. (I have printed so many of these and only one broke up caused by bad gluing.

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I tried version 4 and sadly it broke after the 2nd use. I printed with PETG. Maybe it works better with ABS.

I made a slight improvement to your awesome work, can I post it?

Didn't work. This is a copy of an actual patented product made from metal (https://gropener.com/)
It will break on your first try as the design is not optimised in any way for plastic (whatever the kind of plastic).

Don't bother. You'll just spend 3 hours' printing time and feel like an idiot you did.

I had the same problem... First time I tried to use it, it broke. The design needs to be changed a little. Where the coin goes in is where it breaks. The rest of it is really strong, and I like the idea, it just needs to be stronger at that point. I used PETG with 100% fill.

this is good for my dad who lost his left arm

Meshmixer and Simplify3D both complain about non-manifold segments around the key-ring piece. Are there any plans to upload these models with the non-manifold issues resolved? Meshmixer fails to fix them without removing the key-ring altogether and S3D creates a crazy preview with one side completely solid (finger holes, etc., are all filled in).

Does anyone know how long it takes to make this? If so, could you tell me. Thank you.

This is patented. US PAT NO 9114968. Its stated on creators website.

Dec 24, 2015 - Modified Dec 24, 2015

The coin opener is a misdesigne. I printed the coin Version in PLA (broken after 4 bottles), ABS (broken after 10 bottles) and PETG (broken after 1 bottle) Don`t use the coin opener. Next time i will print the non coin version - we will see. ...... Maybe german beer bottles have very strong crown cap.

EDIT: Every time i print with 100% infill. The break point is every time the smallest point behind the coin.

Hi I made 2 times but the hole is solid not printing your way.I use Simplify3D.Hope someone knows How to fix that ? Thanks !

Repair it with netfabb and it works.

I have the same bloody problem!

what i have ALWAYS needed

Kart5a, You have this listed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license, but you haven't bothered checking with, or giving credit to, the source. This is my invention. The patent application has been published and allowed. It is sold through gropener.com

Hello Mark! I don't know almost anything about those licence things. Would you like to contact me via email so we can discuss this situation?
My @: [email protected]

The third file only printed what looks like half. It does look full in my program.

Which slicer do you use? Sometimes i've had same issues when the program wasn't able to save the g-gode completely. (For example taking the SD-card out too early might cause this.) Btw. I am using Cura as my slicer software.

I'll give it a try in Cura. Was using matercontrol. Any advice on printer setting? The two I printed snapped where the coin goes. 100%, 50% speed, 190C. Thanks for replying.

I like it, when i get my printer I will print one for my dad! thanks make more of these revolutionary things.

Hey Kart5a, is this copyrighted? I would like to use and distribute it.

No it is not copyrighted. You can do everything you want for it except selling it for someone. (There is some kind of patent)

Slightly false. It is copyrighted (everything is, unless certain conditions are met). However the license you chose (CC-BY-SA) means that anyone can share or use the file in any way (includding selling) as long as they share it under the same license. If you don't want people to be able to sell it, you have to choose a NC (Non Commercial) license. (You can choose what license you put your stuff under in the preferences somewhere. What you probably want is a CC-BY-NC license (Creative Commons Attribution Non Commercial license)

Please shorten the names of the files so we know what version we are downloading please.

You can see the rest of the file name by holding your cursor on the name for 2 seconds!

Lmao i made one of these way back also when i saw the original aluminum version in... 9gag was it or some other finnish social media website: http://www.gropener.com/

This things doesnt break any trademarks or design copyrights of the original product?

He isn't selling it.

Cura doesn't want to make a support on that particular spot! it's being very frustrating! which version are you using?

You might have the distance to the object set a bit high. Anyways it printed fine without support for me (The overhang is the keyring hole, and the first few layers will sag a bit)

I am using the latest version of cura! I don't know what's wrong with you cura... For me it makes the support spot!

I used slicer with 100% infill and it prints standing up and breaks free halfway up???

You have to lay it flat before printing it (On its side)! Remember to use support material! (:

OK how do I lay it flat in slicer? Or do I need some other software? Thanks for your help

you can't... just download Cura, import the model, lay flat and then export the model..You can do the same thing in thinkercad or 123d design or blender just to mention free software.

I have not used slicer but I wonder that there is a possibility to rotate object ? Just rotate object 90° to make it lay flat on its side! :)

I printed the model with the coin slot at 100% infill in PLA. It broke after opening around 7 bottles.

I printed one in ABS (only option on my printer) and it didn't open one bottle before snapping like a twig. :(

Oh no! I have never printed one in ABS so I don't know how durable it is. I have printed one in PLA with 20% infill and even that was able to open a bottle.

So I think it might be better to print with 50% or 60% infill. It could be more durable. Make sure that your printing settings are perfect to get the best results! ABS should be strong enough to be able to open the bottle, right?

I did print it on the lowest fill setting to conserve material (I can basically only choose from low, medium, & high). I'm sure it will work on high, just wasn't sure if it was worth using that much ABS.

It is better to print a solid OHBO. I think you waste more material by making a weak OHBO than making straight a strong one.

Oh... I have printed around 10 of these and just one of them is broken because of bad glueing... It's sad to hear that your opener is broken... :(

one can always print one again ;)

As for your note on ABS vs PLA. PLA is a LOT harder than ABS, ABS is relatively soft, but is more suitable for "high" temperature use, as it doesn't get soft nearly as cold as PLA (PLA starts to soften ~60°C)

And the 100% infill really isn't necessary, the one place that could benefit from it is the thinner thing, holding the coin in, and that thing is too thin for infill to matter. The larger parts are large enough to not need 100%. I printed one at 30%, and I can't break it.

I confirm, that with 0.4 Infill it will break in the coin slot, so next made i will use 100% infill.

Yea, that is better idea! I have one bottle opener with 20% infill (an old version) and it worked but it didn't have a slot for coin! At least I opened two bottles with it... After that I printed a new one with 100% infill so I haven't been using that anymore.

This model is very tiny. What size to I scale it to?

It should be right size??? Is there something wrong?

When i load it is about the size of this period "." even the previews here on thingiverse show it extremely tiny. Also why is it oriented on end? Wouldn't it print without any support lying on its side?

I have printed these models many times and they are right size! All previews are also right sizes for me... And the models have to be rotated sideways! (90°) Model has to lay down on its biggest flat area. Which program and printer are you using?

I'm using ReplicatorG on my Thing-O-Matic but that doesn't matter. Look at the preview again here on thingiverse. Each square on the grid represents 1cm or 10mm your model is super tiny.
Look at my history I've printed nearly 700 models. I know what I'm talking about.

I am using Cura as software and Ultimaker 2 as printer. Actually you are right, the preview looks quite small... but when I open the project file in Google SketchUp (modeling program) it looks right size. Also if I open the model in Cura it is right size. So I don't know what's wrong. The project files measurements are correct and in my software the model is perfect. The model in thingiverse preview looks very small... quite weird thing.
When I open it on MakerWare it is super tiny... you can have a right scaled object when you drag the object to the program and press "rescale object" and "move to platform" and then scale the object by 3935%. Remember to rotate object 90° to lay it down.
I don't have explanation why this happens!

I've had this same problem with Sketchup. You have to select either meters/centimeters/millimeters or inch/feet when you export it. It seems with every model I edit in sketchup I end up trying several different export options before I can get it right. I don't remember where I got the sketchup plugin that allows me to export but hopefully your's has similar options.

It worked! Thanks man, you are awesome! Now there is 100% right size models, enjoy!!!

all right, I will try that !

IT WORKS!!! its fantastic

i hope you sharing your product with pics! Very interested about it!

Yes i know ;) thx

Hi What is an amf file? please could you supply an stl file for the rest of us plebs?

Btw, if you are going to print this could you tell how well it worked because i don't have any 3D printer yet! I am very curious to know :D

Yes i can! (:

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