Ender 2 Heat Bed Cable Strain Relief

by psdesign, published

Ender 2 Heat Bed Cable Strain Relief by psdesign Dec 11, 2017
3 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps


Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag


Thing Statistics

4120Views 506Downloads Found in 3D Printer Accessories


Strain Relief for Heated Bed Cable on Ender 2

Here is a plate to be mounted with washers and nuts under your heated bed.
I highly recommend insulating your bed and using the appropriate file.
I also recommend using the 3 screw version to hold planarity

I have made 4 versions:

ender_retain_3_insul.stl I recommend this file
ender_retain_3_no insul.stl Use this if you don't insulate bed

ender_retain_2_insul.stl Use this if you must print a smaller version- but prone to skewing

ender_retain_2_no insul.stl Use this if you must print smaller version and no insulation

I recommend printing in PETG or PLA Plus or other higher temp plastics.

it is stronger if printed with the main body flat on bed and few supports.

It gets attached to the bed's 3 screws, lock down with washers and nuts.
and I have made it to fit over bed insulation.

Use a cable tie over the connector block on the heat bed - most important, add others to secure cable.

If you haven't already, you can insulate your heat bed and increase its performance with these easy steps:
1 buy
2 Foam insulation tape:
3 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195UF3SO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Foil Tape:
1 Cut and stick the foam to the underside of your heat bed, leave it about 1/8" away from edges,
cut holes for screws, do not cover soldered ends of heat bed connector.
2 cover entire bottom with metal foil to seal in heat. Let foil wrap around sides of heated and burnish down with your fingernail then trim.
do not cover or touch the soldered connector**

1 Now mount your cable protector cover over the 3 screws and add a nut to each screw and tighten in place
2 Now assemble cables and add zip ties in two places to secure cables, and mount to your machine!

Please note: I am constantly improving the files.
I am now printing each of these new improvements and until I have printed, tested and mounted each, I am going to leave the label work in progress.

I have tested the two versions with insulation. I cannot test others if anyone else wants to give feedback.

If you make one please photograph and post it to this page!!!

More from 3D Printer Accessories

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for clients all over the world. We offer free and instant access to comparati...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

Has anybody tried this in PLA, to me if you anneal the PLA for a little bit it should be able to withstand the temperature of the bed? Or so that is my line of thought. Or perhaps I could use the model with insulation, and add washers between the nuts on the screw. I don't have insulation on my bed and want strain relief bad for peace of mind... I am new to all this :D

I think you could try with PLA Pro from eSun or Raptor (raptor heat anneals very well)
both are PLA based and resist higher temps.

Don't think this fits anymore. Printed a retain 2 no insulation. Had to drill it to allow the cable ends to not bottom out, and it bottoms out on the Y stepper.

Very strange, I have two Enders both have insulated beds and I’ve printed and use the insulated version with great success, I’m not sure why yours doesn’t work, did they change the ender build plate? I would love it if somebody who actually is using one without insulation could respond whether it works for them as well

No insulation. It's quite a substantial amount of material that needs to be removed for it to fit, and I think at that point it wouldn't be doing it's intended purpose anyway.

Not sure why you needed to remove this material. Maybe your bed is too low it shouldn’t be so close that the ends of the belt hit the bed. This new version was made to pass above stepper unit.
You can also raise z stop a bit and adjust bed higher.

If you prefer I can make you a single corner retainer too

Bed's just at standard Z stop height. If you're willing to slap together a single corner retainer, that'd be great.

Either that or to reach the 2nd screw, could run a support piece above where the stepper slides into, while maintaining the cutouts for the stepper motor and the cable end. Might make up for the material removal.

Did the pictures help? Is there anything else you need a picture for?

How thick is your insulation? I don't know which strain relief I should print with a 5mm insulation.

Is your insulation rigid? If it compresses to about 2 mm thick print the one with insulation. That design was made to compress material around the screw holes with a washer and the not before putting the springs on and it would fit snugly on your bed. I might have to make another version eventually for people with thicker insulation. Let me know

I'm planning to use a sheet of cork so I think it won't compress that much.

You can try the one without insulation Which has a flat inside, however it would probably lower the height of your insulation with respect to position of the heat bed, I may have to redesign this part for you but I will be away for one week. I’ll let you know if I can post. Would need higher side rails and higher connector boxes. What is your cork thickness?

It's 5,5mm thick. But no haste, I'll try if it fits this week!

I used the mini version, printed well. Slight issue is that it doesn't like to sit flush with the bed, so the edges/lips aren't coming up around the bed, but rather the top of the lip is sitting horizontal with the bed. not sure if that's a problem, or maybe I just didn't tighten the zip ties enough?

I would advise using the full version.
Did you insulate your bed? This was made with a few mms allowance for insulation.

Can you send pictures showing where it didnt align?
I dont completely understand.

Foil Tape is horrible insulation material. It also is electrically conductive. The WORST thing to use. I recommend making a version for cork tile. Its thicker, a better insulator, and will not transfer heat from bed to the plastic strain relief bracket. I have already seen people start fire's using Foil Tape.

Tim’s insulation technique which mirrors my own


Use any insulation you’d like, I am made the strain relief just taking into account to 3 mm of compressible sufficient. If you use a different insulation that comes to a different thickness let me know if I can change the model for you

It’s actually insulated with thick foam insulation tape and only sealed with a foil cover that is not in contact with heat nor with the heating elements I got this advice from another blogger who had great success with it and I’ve used on three printer so far with good success

Nice. I also insulated my bed, but I ran into issues with the bed mounting bolts and the belt crimp ends hitting the bottom of this (preventing me from getting the bed low enough for the z-stop/level). So I had to mark and drill holes to clear them. So far so good though.

What did you drill into? I found a by opening up my Springs a bit and raising my Z stop I could overpass the crimp nuts

I drilled holes in your printed bed restraint, to allow both the cable crimp ends and bed bolts to pass through it.
On the 2nd ender I built today, I gave up entirely because the rear restraint portion was hitting the y motor & mount. I then check the ender I built yesterday, and see it barely hits the motor, but skips/slides over the top of it.
Good idea... I just spent far too much time trying to make it work.

Please send photos. I’ll see if I can improve design. They already have holes for bed screws

I put a few photos in a 'I made it' with my notes. You can see the rear cable restraint portion make contact with the motor. This one, it slips and rides over the top. I managed the cat gcode without issue (even at 125% feed rate).
My other ender for whatever reason kept hitting the motor, or the mount (if I lowered the motor).

It also shows the roller bearing bolt ends and how the holes allow them to fit up into/through the holes I drilled. Prior to that, the bottom of the printed piece would bottom out against those bolt ends (and the crimp connectors, though the front connector barely engages the front edge of it). The highest setting on the stock Z stop would result in the nozzle burying into the bed. I suppose I could print an adjustable z stop... but then I also risk too little tension on the springs, allowing them to bottom out, or worse, the screw head spinning when I try to adjust. I noticed this immediately, and put some glue to lock the screwhead into the bed to avoid it spinning when adjusting the bed leveling nut.
I realize this is a work in progress, and Hope this feedback helps in some way. I think it is a worthwhile project.

Probably best to scan/trace the bed. I simply marked my bolts ends with paint, then tightened the bed down so it transferred paint onto the bottom of the printed piece, so i had marks on where to drill my holes.

Update December 26, 2017: I have added V4 which has a raised rear cable guide portion for those of you who found interference with the Y stepper.
If you make one please let me know if this resolved!

Hello Robby, this is great information,
I have no idea why yours has such interference other than the fact that you may be using some very thick insulation.
I screwed my backing plate to the bed with nuts to tighten down.

If you can send me better photos of all points of view of interference with motor I can try to adjust 3D model and upload an improved version.

I have since removed the printed part. Sorry.
I think you are correct that my bed insulation is the problem. The insulation I use is from lowes, 2" wide x 1/8" thick. I cut it back about 1/2" from the bed perimeter. I ran my foil tape up and onto the edge of the bed. I then ran one layer of foil across the top of the bed, wrapping it over the edges and underneath, overlapping my under insulation foil by about about 1". I ran foil onto the edges of my first i3 (as you describe in your thing), and discovered it would 'peel' away from the edges over time through multiple heatings. So felt better this time around by wrapping the face of the bed over the edges to avoid that problem.
The photos I sent are all that I had. They show the bolt ends going up through the holes I drilled appropriately.
The rear portion hitting the Y motor is another story. After I removed the bed, one ender is still much closer than the other to the Y motor. I can't figure this out just yet. Both are as low on the bracket as they can be.
But I will continue to tinker and sort it out.
Please understand that i think what you are doing is a good thing, and I am not complaining at all. Just relaying my experience. I'm a numbskull... so take it as a grain of salt

Hi Robby. I appreciate the feedback. If you like try printing the new version with raised cable guise. Should clear your stepper

Hi Peter,

Just to give you a heads up. This is unable to be printed on the Ender-2 with the flat side on the bed as it's too big. If it is printed on it's end it will fit.


Yes I did notice this, if you are printing on the ender you’ll have to go flat side up, however I did think in the full base plate so it should be strong enough. Let me know how it turns out

Thanks. When you mean flat end, do you mean the bit where the top 2 holes are and not where the connector section is?

What size nuts are needed for the bed screws? Thanks