Anycubic I3 Mega Power Supply Casing

by ml_blh, published

Anycubic I3 Mega Power Supply Casing by ml_blh Dec 14, 2017


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New Power Supply Cover for the Anycubic I3 Mega for fans from 40mm - 60mm and 100mm, height up to 25mm. The white area in the picture is from the glue...
I recommend v3 with the 100mm fan. Its the slightest version and needs only one fan.

v1: Old design for two 40mm fans. max. height 20mm

v2_1: New design for two 40-60mm fans. max. height 20mm

This Version (v2_2) can only be used without the bottom plate. But the bottom plate is not necessary. Just use m3 screws and attach the legs direct at the casing.

v2_2: New design for two 40-60mm fans. One with max. height 20mm, the other one max. height 25mm (e.g. Noctua 60x25mm)

If you dont want to print with support, you can use this version and glue the two parts together.

v2_2_1: New design for two 40-60mm fans. One with max. height 20mm, the other one max. height 25mm. Part one.

v2_2_1: New design for two 40-60mm fans. One with max. height 20mm, the other one max. height 25mm. Part two.

v3: New design for one 100mm fan. max. high 12mm. (e.g. Kaze Jyu Slim 100mm)

v3.1: With smaller holes.

Only work at the PSU without Power and and pull out the power cable. Dont check or
raise the printer with power on.

Print Settings


Anycubic I3 Mega






0,2 mm



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Does it work only without the metal base of the printer?

All versions except v2_2 (v2_2_1) works with the metal plate. But there are different version of the printer. "Old" ones (2017?) and "new" ones (2018?) with a different PSU. The Mod works with the old one.

Hello i made one of 100mm model but this didn't fit. If i place it under it he leans in capacitor. If i put it on the model it leans in cover. How can i fix that?

I simply added a 60mm fan to the terminal side blowing IN and connected it right to the open 12v supply on the PSU. This way it has a constant supply of outside air and it's very quiet. Even with the stock fan still plugged into the second slot I have yet to hear it come on once. Anycubic made a poor design choice with this PSU. My Ultrabase version has 19.7 volts going to the fan and any 12V fan I used sounded like a chainsaw! This was just an idea and it has worked out much better than expected.

I've printed the dual 60mm one. The original fan in my i3 Mega is a 60mm Long Chang LC6015MS12. It is written 12V 0.15A on the fan.
I install 2x MX 6010 60mm 12V fans and tested them in the PSU. They did run ok and but it was kinda loud. Shortly after I started smelling something strange. The new fans motors where getting quite hot. I measured the fan voltage coming out of the PSU and I got 24V! My 12V replacement fans would have died quickly running at that voltage. I am ordering the 24V version of my fans and I will test it again and update this post.

Be careful if you are swapping fans and make sure you have the correct voltage.

My PSU fan has an 18v fan. Haven't measured the voltage. I followed the advice above and left the stock fan in place , and added a second quite 60mm fan wired to the 12v main supply to keep the PSU cool (preventing the original noise fan coming on unless things get really toasty).

Does the PSU have something like a temperature sensor that can be read out?


Why 100mm? instead of 120 or 80 ... i mean the 100mm fans are kinda hard to find. :(

120mm is to big. 100mm because low rpm but enough airflow: Scythe Kaze Jyu Slim 100 mm

mm i can't find one around ... maybe you'll add an 80mm version? nice work anyway :)

Yeah I would have liked a 80mm too :(

The 100mm models have a slight error.
The four fanholders are ca. one layer below the other surface.

Fixed it! Thanks!

(ml_blh - in reply to Laberlurch, Dec 23, 2017, "Yes the air flow is not good and the printer is really loud, i changed all stepper drivers")
Hi ml_blh, can you describe, whitch stepper drivers you are used? (plaesse insert ebay or amazon web link). Thank you

TMC2208 from Watterott http://www.watterott.com/de/SilentStepStick-TMC2208

I uploaded an instruction with pictures for the stepper driver an fan change. Its in german, but google should help.

Kannst du bitte den Link posten? @ml_blh

Die Anleitung ist schon bei den STL Dateien.

Kannst du mir bitte die Anleitung schicken? Danke

:) thank you, Ich gehe studieren

Looking at the pics I see you have 2 fans over the stepper drivers. How did you attach those fans?

These are Scythe Mini Kaze 40mm fans. I connected the power cable and used the original M3 screws from the 50mm fan. For each fan one.

Thanks for your creation.

Is PLA safe for a power supply cover? This material is known to be heat sensitive

Then would not it be more effective that this lid is fully closed as the original? I am not sure that the components that are on the side of the fan of 100mm (or others fans) are well ventilated, because the "freshness" will necessarily leave through the openings.

The best I think would have been to take inspiration from the original, closed everywhere except at the place of the fan necessarily and to position the fan in air extraction, thus blowing down the printer.

Maybe, if you want i can make a fully closed version. I use the cover for 2 months now and i cant see any deformation. PLA ist stable up to 60 degree. I dont hink that the PSU become so hot.

I like the idea, but I'm nervous having the semi-open power supply with a 6 year old running around the house (and any friends he might bring over that are particularly unruly.) Still might try it out though, if I can find a way to make it harder to get fingers in there.

Hi, i added a version 3.1 with smaller holes. So that it should not be possible to get in the psu with little fingers.

Hello, did you print this in PLA or other material? thank you

Hi, I have a question ...
Are the fans connected to the original slot of the power supply?
You use 12V fan, right? The original fan is 18V and
that works anyway?

Thanks and regards

Yes , the fans are connected to the original 2-Pin slot. I only used 12V fans. The original fan has 14V, but the 12V fans works too.

Funny my fan has 18V (!) Maybe that's why my printer is even more loud !?
Thank you for your answer

Just 2 cents:

  • With the open bottom frame I would change the design to be more like a cage in order to avoid accidentally touching voltages (for instance when lifting the printer) that can be lethal. There's a electrical safety rule that a finger must not be able to reach voltages > 50V.

  • The 110/220V switch is almost blocked with the current side wall design.

In general I'm unsure if the broken thermal design of Anycubic can be saved at all. Pushing warm air up against a closed top isn't the right thing to do... Same silly design with the fans over the stepper drivers. A better design would probably be having the bottom completely closed with continously running low-speed fans at the back of the printer, pushing warm air out, sucking cold air from the front.

That way the whole chassis would work like an air duct an all internal components would be cooled.

Yes the air flow is not good and the printer is really loud, i changed all stepper drivers and fans with the aim to make the printer silent. After some test, this casing and without the bottom plate its the most quiet.

Ok, thanks for your hints, but I do not know how the "accidentally touching" should happen? But i will add a warning in the discription.
I think its no problem that the switch is blocked, because you check one time if the switch is in the right position an never touch it again.

Well, an accident happens accidentally... Someone (not you) wants to lift the printer because it's in the way, grabbing it left and right at the frame and touches some coil, capacitor or any other thing in the power supply. Remember, there's still a lot of power in the capacitors even if the PSU is switched off.

Hmm. I'm also unsure wether the cables at the power inlet are even protected with heat shrink... Must check at my printer.

Excellent model and design. Thank you this 2 fan mod will quieten the PSU fan noise for sure :-)