Prusa MK3 Improved Shroud

by codiac2600 Dec 18, 2017
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Just a suggestion.. Mine kept rotating during zhops since the shroud only has a single mount point. Maybe run a connection arm up from the shroud that hooks into the open mounting hole on the blower fan... Has anyone tried this on the new MK3s files yet?

Thanks for the great design.
Could we get fusion 360 files for modification? Thanks.

Thanks for the good design.
But my mk3 has a fan in 45 degrees, not vertical to this part. how come it is not the same?

you need to remove the fan and the 45 degree support to use this fan. the fan will screw directly into the nozzle assembly where the support is currently.

Could you please make the inside pillar a bit longer? From Z 6.20 to 7.0 it prints "in the air". Print does not fail becouse of this but you can see the deformation when you look inside the shroud. You can also see this in Slic3r (screen atached).

awesome catch. I will wait for the new file to be uploaded.

Good catch. I'll dig into it.

Would printing in Nylon X work? sorry this will be my first printer coming in Friday and I ordered an Olsson ruby and some nylon X to try out

I would suppose so, NylonX has a decent heat resistance

You have ignored every single comment asking for the fusion 360 files, so I guess you dont want to share your "intelectual property". Its funny that you are not sharing the files you created for an OPEN source machine, specially considering the company that makes the machine shares everything. Also...its just a fan shroud, not the plans for a space rocket...

Look man - the guy took the time and made it to is giving it to you for free. If he doesn’t feel like giving you his files just be grateful u can print the damn thing and stop attacking the guy ok. Just buzz off.

just take the STL and import it into fusion 360 and do whatever you want to it. if you are looking for 'Timeline' editing to see how he did it, well that is another story. when you import a STL, turn off 'timeline' to convert to Brep then you can re-enable it or not.

Working with STLS is super annoying. They have several "faces" per face. It makes no sense at all.

such is life :).

It is how you get better at dealing with the short comings of fusion 360.

I would never post my original work.

As I said...this is not NASA, you are not going to sell your design or win an award for innovation, it is a simple mod for an open source printer.
"such is life" haha you are seriously getting philosofical over this?
I hope this guy makes millions with this ORIGINAL masterpiece. If i was him, I would encrypt my hard-drive, we dont want anyone stealing this file. Come on man, it makes sense to protect your work when it represents a source of income...

you are losing your mind over a fan shroud.

open source does not automatically extend into any and everything you do that touched something open source.

if he would like to make a profit off his work he will associate a cost to it and then place it on a marketplace from there the free market will take over and dictate if they would or would not like to buy it.

take his work and copy it you already have access to it.

it is amazing reading through the comments on this item. somehow this fan shroud is cursed to bring out the most toxic posting in people.

So....I've seen your website...everything makes sense now...you must be like 50 years old or more. You just have an old fashioned mindset. Good luck with your toys.

LOL! when you shave the neck beard, take off the Fedora, stop staying m'lady to your mom, and stop eating Tendies your acne might clear up or we hear about another school shooting REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!

tips fedora vigorously

Look at our profile man, we are from argentina and around 30. Lucky for us we dont have school shootings, that only happens in countries like USA...as I said, good luck with your RC toys.

enjoy your Tendies.

I dont even know what those are haha. English is not my first language, but at least I can communicate. Can you say the same? Go and play with your cars...

Filar3D based off your comments alone if i was the author i wouldn't give the files out. You seem to have an entitlement issue. If it is not NASA and "just a fan shroud". Maybe you should just redesign it yourself ;) then you can do what ever you want with the file.

Can you post your fusion file? Thanks :)

I didn't notice any improvements over the original Prusa version as regarding support and bridging performance.
The comparison was made using MINI All In One 3D printer test https://www.thingiverse.com/make:480810

*MINI* All In One 3D printer test

could someone be so kind to tell me which Brand 5015 Radial Fan the MK3 has ?

Thank you.

Great design, great fit too. Doesn't saw any improvement VS the OEM shroud though.

I printed the calibration thing in petg, I'll try with PLA too because to be honest, this is a great design and it should help somehow...

Here's the pic of my very slight alteration:-

Hi Codiac2600,
Thanks for the extensive design work on this one!
I was disappointed with the Mk3 overhang performance too, but the main issue I have is curling on the front side of objects with overhangs. I figured that the Mk3 shroud allowed too much air out the front and there wasn't enough back pressure to get enough of the air around the sides. So before I tried your design I did a little experiment that I thought might be helpful to you too. I just used my 3D pen to block about 50% of the front side and although it's not perfect I got a vast improvement in my overhangs... I'll post an image here:-

Thanks for the design Codiac. I'm having this fabricated out of stainless steal right now through shapeways. I couldn't use the stock one as the walls were too thin.

Did you get your steel shroud? How is it working?

I did. It came out great, however, I didn't anticipate it weighing so dang much, which won't be good for the print head as a whole. I'm thinking of getting it done in aluminum instead, which is what I should have done to begin with.

For you bros doing this in Slic3r, I had great luck with supports on and overhang threshold set to 2 degrees. Will just generate supports on the long floating areas where the fan nozzle goes in.

Thanks for the awesome design!

Have printed this in ABS and works great, but i have a little problem to remove supports and end to broke the two front horizontal supports. Even with Build Plate only mode, it will create supports inside the model. Also the screw hole don't come good and end to crunch the model at screw hole, any advice to make it better? Used Prusa ABS, 100% infill with supports only from build plate

v13 fits like a glove and works well! Printed it in PETG

Any chance you'd be willing to share your fusion 360 file? I'm trying to make a similar fan shroud for a different printer and would love to review some of the techniques you used to generate yours.

I printed the V10 in PETG and it only lasted a few prints before deforming due to the heat. Is ABS going to be significantly better or do I need to go to something more exotic like PC?

Abs is what the original is made out of and, yes it is good for a little bit hotter than pet-g (80c vs 90c roughly) but abs will droop also because this print ends right up against the heater cartridge.
i printed it out of PC and it was ok but, it ends up against the pinda so i went back to the original style printed in PC.

1) what my original abs part from prusa did once i was printing pc (hint massive droop)
2) side view of the heat deformation of abs

if you want to see the pc one look at my post below.

No it's not. All MK3 original parts are printed in PETG. They went the easy way. So beware anyone who wants an enclosure !

No. It's well documented that the shroud is in ABS and everything else is PETG. You are even welcome to do an acetone test of you'd like.

Prusas ABS and PETG orange differ in color shade - check yours (that's the easiest test - and I have both materials so I know). Mine was identical (so it was PETG). And it's long gone so I can't do an acetone test. I've printed another one from original STL in ABS and it doesn't sag as the original (at least not yet ;).

Again. It was printed in ABS. It's documented and tested. The colors are very similar. It's funny that each time someone says it's PETG they never have it to prove themselves wrong. I ran a PLA version of my cooler for a while and didn't sag. I print in PC and PETG without an enclosure just fine too.

Again. Mine was in PETG.
And there is a difference in color shade (and PETG is more shiny than ABS). And it's a visible difference if you put them side by side.
Proof - why would I need to anything to anyone ? Yours was in ABS, ok. Mine is in ABS NOW and WORKS.

Because you made a bold accusation where it didn't matter. I doubt yours was PETG.

why do you argue everything everyone says and claim to know everything!! Theres a few gaps in your replies that dont line up with later comments. Your S*#T also stinks, OWN it. Its disgusting how you turn around every comment on the OP to defend the little integrity that remains. Keep up the good work :)

You can doubt all you can (and even more).
And anything that's proven fact with MK3 is that we all got beta printers for testing. And it still is - since even the first non beta FW is still a beta (some things don't work, other are turned off).
Some got droopy shrouds, some got regular rods instead of hardened, some had problems with bearings, etc. Everyone got a beta FW.
The printed parts looked awful - had to do a lot of cleanup so I could even get some of them to work.

So you're jaded and feel the need to complain online to feel better. Maybe right a mean email and send it to Josef too. That'll teach him! Lol

I'm not feeling better. Your trolling my comment. Just keeping up the convo since you don't have all the facts. And when I wrote a bit more than you know you went into ranting about me. Sorry dude. And no I don't need to email JP, I can get in a car and be there in 2h if I'd want to. Get your facts straight, and maybe you'll RIGHT JP and email.

Sorry guys for this. That would be the end on my side. I'll let the kid say his things...

Wait. You're trolling my thingiverse item. You came here to share your grief about a lie since you didn't have a petg shroud.

Grow up. You are just a baby crying about the printer you broke and came here to complain for no reason. If your have an issue with your printer talk to prusa support and not a thingiverse link about a replacement shroud.

Don't you see how stupid you are yet? We all do.

And don't have anything against your item (re-read my posts about 10x more time then maybe it'll get to you). Now I have a lot against you - but that's a different matter.
I did have a PETG shroud. As I said I do have Prusas PETG and ABS in orange (and some other colors), and I know how to differentiate between them. Also told you I have the original shroud model (pre last github update) printed in ABS and it works - used it now about 4x longer than the original one and it's not sagging. And no, I didn't brake anything (you really should re-read those posts). Works just fine.
(And if you want proof of basically everything I've wrote about just go and look around - there are lots of pics etc.).

Don't you see how stupid you are yet? We all do.

A. Color is not the correct way to determine PETG vs ABS. There are color variances, they can appear the same or different. Even when using the exact same filament as Prusa.
B. Shininess can change dramatically based on the temperature used to print the part, so it is also not the correct way to determine PETG vs ABS.
C. Prusa explicitly stated on the forums that the shroud is ABS.
D. Not all ABS is the same, some withstand more heat than others. Furthermore, different print settings can affect how much sag there is.

Conclusion: the only way your shroud was PETG was if you printed it yourself.

Necrofiliac I see.
After over 6 years of printing mostly ABS I know how it smells, how it feels, how it looks, how it breaks, and how it reacts to acetone etc.
Keep conclusions to yourself. If you knew 10% of what's wrong with the printer (eg. errors on Prusas side) you wouldn't be surprised if yours was PLA (and I don't really care if JP wrote it's from gold). I consider myself one of the lucky ones as I only had to replace steel rods, bearings, and the filament sensor (until now - will see how it goes).

If you knew how ABS/filaments work then you wouldn't have suggested that color and shininess were properties that could be used to determine this. I don't really care if you refuse to admit you were wrong, but I thought it was worthwhile to explain in simple factual information why that's true, in case anyone else stumbled upon this pointless argument.

Actually I do. And those properties are on the list (among many, many others) - if you want to dismiss them that's your choice.
And if you want to stay a true JP beliver than that's also your choice.
And I really love that everyone that's replying REALLY KNOWS what I had mounted on my printer - that's the funniest for me as someone that had no contact with a plastic part from my kit is really really ready to eaven beat me up for saying that mine wasn't ABS, because someone somewhere wrote that they all are ABS. DAMN people - mistakes happen, just look at Prusas forums there's lots and lots of them regarding this printer (from software, through printed parts to other hardware like motors, rods, bearings etc.).
For a simple example even PINDA2 isn't production ready - it's temp correction table in the FW is totally bad (and temp calibration doesn't fix that).

"Actually I do", okay, contrarian. You can't rewrite history because you don't like the outcome. You clearly have an ulterior motive, with all the sensationalism.

Thing is, no one's complaining about getting PETG shrouds except you. Despite the fact that if they made that mistake, there'd be hundreds of printers with that filament type.

Given that you've:
A. Provided a completely incorrect reasoning for concluding PETG
B. Repeatedly stooped to insults, making anything you actually say terribly untrustworthy
C. Later tried to backtrack out of (A) by saying you have other better reasons (if you did you would have said them instead, not after being corrected)
D. Bring up unrelated issues to MK3 as a cause for why this particular part, on only your machine, would be incorrect

I don't find any reason to trust anything you say.

""Actually I do", okay, contrarian" - Just didn't want to waste more time on you and write some more... About 20 years working with CNC machines, which about 6 of those are with 3D Printers, I do have some knowledge about it.

"Thing is, no one's complaining about getting PETG shrouds except you..." - don't care (as most people)
"Despite the fact that if they made that mistake, there'd be hundreds of printers with that filament type" - talk about incorrect reasoning

Also don't care about your ABC's.

"I don't find any reason to trust anything you say" - then why did you even waste my time and necroed this post ? (guess what... don't care about that either - go and troll somewhere else)

They did ship some in PETG first... then they switched to ABS. The MK2.5 upgrade was with PETG filament only then they switched to include ABS printed Fan shroud as well in the description. they messed up and a bunch of people had warping fan shrouds in PETG far as i know.

The v10 does not fit. it hits the pinda and it does not fit the entire fan outlet, its too small.
it is too close to the heater cartridge on both sides also

I've went back and adjusted the tolerances so it should compensate for different printers and their ability to match exact sizes. The closeness serves a purpose. Trying to get as much air pressure without spilling it everywhere.

Could you do a mirrowed Version of it for this? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2100282
My fan is facing right cause i use a BL Touch and so on. :)
But nice Design. :)

E3D fan with integrated layer fan - extruder fan facing right
by bdsnk

Is it possible that you can do such a good Shroud for an Mk2s?

Original Prusa MK2.3 extruder (MK2/MK3 hybrid extruder for Prusa MK2/MK2s)
by Tijnv

Can you please post your Fusion 360 file. If you don't mind, I'd like to alter this for a similar project. I have an i3 clone and I'm adding an E3D V6 to it. This shroud would help significantly.


You say to print with supports, but is that needed?

They are not. I'm just picky about the little nozzle ends so I add supports from the bed only. It's up to your level of perfection in print quality that decides whether or not supports are necessary.

So, it seems that stock cooler isn't that good after all - it's too inconsitent.
Had same thing printed twice, and they should had the same cooling, but one came warped.. other didn't.
I gave your v10 another chance and unfortunately I had similar cooling issues.
Perhaps the fan is not powerful enough? It's pretty quiet for a radial fan, even on 100%.

If I may recommend something - why not try to make MK2-like shroud, that blows air from the front only?
Most printers have such shroud and they work well, maybe it's worth the shot.

I am pretty sure this will work with PETG or ABS, but the nice sloping surface would allow to attach some aluminium foil to reflect the heat radiated by the nozzle. Any experiences with that?

Ok.... i see everyone is having better results with the latest V10 Shroud.....

Well... it looks cool and fits perfectly, but i'm having worst results than the stock shroud..... I tried printing a Benchy with the stock shroud and the V10 Shroud, the bow of the benchy is facing forward and i used the same Gcode and Filament.

You can see how the benchy turned out with the V10 Shroud in the pictures. I will post pictures of the benchy with the stock shroud as soon as the print finishes (but i can already see its going way better)

EDIT: The First photo (on the left) is with the stock shroud.

I see that the top of the bow turned out way better with the V10, and the middle hull way better with the stock shroud. I would say that if the middle vents on the V10 are made as large as the stock shroud's, it should perform pretty much perfectly.

All I have to say is that the one I printed (V10) works wayyyyy better than the original! Enough said! Thanks codiac2600!!!

Yay! Glad it worked out for you.

Hi Codiac, thx for your work!

Continuing on the comment below about the latest version: I now see under Thing Files that there is one version dated 18 december 2017 (version V6) and one version 5 januari 2018 (v10) and hence I assume the version of januari 5th (V10) is the latest version and best...?
(you commented on januari 2nd that the V6 version is best but now we see V10 dated jan 5th..)

Anyhow, great work; maybe you can shine some light / clean up the versions describtion in the thing details.

Thx a lot!

Yes V10 is the latest and works better than the original shroud for me and many others. I'll clean up all the verbiage ASAP!

V6: too large, rear right corner would hit the bed/print.
V10: can't mount it effectively (it would blow air on nozzle instead).

Now I'm back to stock cooler and I managed to get max 15* overhangs with PLA. I don't think there is much to improve over it.

What do you mean by the V10 blowing air only on the nozzle? What area about it doesn't mount effectively?

15 degree overhangs isn't very good. With this cooler it's possible to acheive over 45 degree overhangs where the stock cooler fails at that.

No, I mean THE 15° angle: https://imgur.com/qslleAf
I saw your thread on facebook prusa group and I've no idea why you call 20° angle 70°. You from USA or something?
Anyway, got up to 15° with STOCK MK3 cooler.

And by blowing air on the nozzle, I mean it sits bit higher than stock shroud and blows more air on the nozzle than on the filament.

Proof: https://imgur.com/8iMFlCZ
Stl: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2298057

Overhang Test

The angle is read the other direction. It's not what country you're from. The angle is read from the vertical axes. If you look at the test itself it prints with the degree marking on the back for each area it prints to help you understand the angle. Since you obviously didn't print the test you would have seen the angle indicators.

There is no 15 degree or 85 degree marking... Lol so what did you use to test?

It sits higher but the air is pointed downward. It does not push air more at the nozzle it actually aims the air towards the tip and downward.

I didn't say anything about his markings. But I guess you two guys have lots in common.
And where did you get that 85° from? That would add up to... 100° ;)

Anyway, I suppose you might be right regarding the way the air travels, but I tested it and no matter how I mounted it it ended up like this (on the left): https://imgur.com/c1ta7E5
Stock cooler on the right.

Just remember Filip that the overhang is measured from the vertical axes. Regardless of me or the designer that is how it's measured. It's not 20 degrees and never will be. You're just being rude and that's fine but perhaps you should calm down a bit. Have a good day trolling.

See, the truth is... it doesn't matter how you measure it. It's the same angle one way or another ;)
Anyway, good luck with your shroud, but I have a feeling it's useless given how well stock performs.

Then why did you blame me for being from the USA? You need to relax.

The good news is prusa is testing my shroud and found it better so far because they continue to get complaints about cooling. So troll away. Since I know who you are I know you constantly give bad advice on the Facebook page and always say prusa is perfect so your response here doesn't surprise me Filip.

You should learn to be nice and also learn how to use your printer instead of being rude.

I've given you solid evidence that stock shroud can achieve 15° overhangs and you call that trolling? Cool (pun intended).
And which bad advice are you referring to? I'm really curious.

Overhangs are measured from the vertical. In order to succeed the test you must not have a single issue. Yes you have issues at other angles. Again. You don't understand how the test works or how to apply it. I can't help that and again prusa has aknowledged the poor cooling on the MK3 so your points don't matter. They are investigating because they know it's an issue. Good luck trolling!

Never mind this guy. You have made a great contribution to the MK3 design. Thumb up @codiac2600 !

I made one of these. It seems to cool quite well (better than stock, confirmed with better prints) but I have a few issues which meant I have reverted to the original:

1: This hangs very close to the nozzle height, it will snag any print that has a whiff of warping to it.
2: Related to the above, and partly due to the length, it's hard to mount this hanging from one bolt. Any tilt on it is going to cause problems.

A bit confused here. Which one is the ACTUAL latest version?

V6 of the regular shroud is the latest. It's similar in shape to the current MK3 shroud and cools the best out of the designs I've uploaded. V2 of the C Shroud is the latest in that style which was supposed to bring more air to the back of the print beyond the pinda probe. Sadly it just isn't designed well enough to move enough air back behind the print so in essence it's total cooling potential isn't as good. I posted these without a ton of testing and in my situation my room temp is cooler than most as I print at my studio at around 19-20C. I have a little advantage that way so I uploaded all the designs so people could test and give feedback. I've done dozens of overhang tests and the V6 shroud is the BEST out of the bunch and better than the included shroud. The downfall being I designed it to MY printer and my nozzle is a little lower than some so it's a very tight fit and I need to redesign it a little higher.

Hi Codiac, my original shroud installed at a slight angle, drooping to the Pinda side

i printed your v4 model and it mounted the same... at an angle
to correct this I crudely clipped about 1mm off the fan insertion opening, on the straight edge below the fan

this enabled your design to mount better on my printer...

there was no adjustment available in the fan mounting and removing material from the fan its self, was not an option.

regards Joan

I'm sitting down now to redraw this and hopefully make variants that have height adjustments that someone can measure themselves on their printer and then print the correct design. I wanted the shroud as low as safely possible but basing it off my printer alone wasn't the best idea. I'll post the new design hopefully soon and appreciate the feedback.

I have a sock on my V6. They are really cheap ($2-3). I wonder if that negates the heating. I just got my build complete and prints are coming out ok with the stock nozzle, but I am all for improvement, and look forward to trying it. I just thought I might mention a simple enhancement which you can buy from E3D or one of their vendors which will take care of thermal stability and heated air at the same time.

Socks help with temp stability and thats about it. I use one myself on all 3 printers but it's there for safety only. The sock itself still gets hot and still heats the air coming from the shroud.

Also keep the heat blocks nice and shiny, and fingers less burnt :). I thought being an insulator that it might provide some improvement. That's all. I haven't experienced any cooling issues just yet, but I'm sure that comes down to what and what size object you are printing. I'm glad I suppose, but know that issues are looming, but so are fixes. Pretty much same with any of the 3d printers. At least we have some nice core components.

Most definitely. My only reason for going in and try to fix the cooling was I also have the Monoprice Maker Select V2 which has the best cooling upgrade ever in the Diiicooler and it just stomps any prusa shroud I've tried. I'm trying to replicate that level of overhang and cooling but have it fit these beautiful machines.

So.... Codiac2600 have you tested the latest version?? BTW, is the latest version the "C Shroud V2"? Or the "Shroud V6"?

Hello! Sorry for the delay I enjoyed a nice holiday away and am back to try this again. So I went 2 different routes with design so those are both the latest. Honestly the C shroud does not help much at all. Even though it moves a little air to the back corner it's not enough to consider it an improvement. I've gone back to the regular non C version and am trying to "aim" the air better. I'm getting good strength of air flow but it's aimed behind the nozzle about 2cm. Once I rework some things I'll upload the latest design with a few different heights since I'm using my own MK3 to design the shroud and not every printer will have the exact same nozzle height.

I tried MK3_C_Shroud_V2 on my MK3 but it is too tall and extends below the nozzle, so I couldn't use it. Looks like it needs to be about 3mm shorter to fit.

I used my own MK3 as a guide for design so it may not work very well across multiple machines. I'm going to go back and rework the design to be more universal instead of using my own machine as the only guide. I do have a shorter one and once I have second I'll upload it after test.

same for me.
Update C Shroud V2 is to low and touches the print surface.

but good idea. I think the original MK3 part ist not very usefull. And i have cooling issues

I'm not really seeing a difference between the V1 and V2 C-shroud files that are posted?

Hello! The update notes mention the change. There is an internal wall added so turbulence doesn't stop air from reaching the very tip of the arms.

Hard to see the internal change unless you look down into the opening for the blower fan.

Should there be a difference between the V1 and V2 file? I loaded both files into Slic3r and went layer by layer in Preview with them and V1 and V2 look the same?

Hmm. Maybe I messed that up. I'm away from my computer but I'll check again soon. Do you have thin wall detection turned on? Maybe I didn't make it thick enough.

Yes I do have detect thin walls turned on.

I'm back at the computer and you were correct. I uploaded the wrong file. It should be correct now. Thank you for noticing that!