Quickly measure the right amount of tea leaves for one pot, or other granular materials where you need the same amount every day:
- Place the funnel on the portioner, over the closed measuring cup.
- Pour in the tea leaves until the cup is a bit over full.
- Hold the chute hole over your tea tin.
- Carefully slide off the funnel, striking the measuring cup and pouring the extra tea back into the tin.
- The measure now contains the right amount of tea. Pour it into the filter or teapot. I use my funnel and stand for this.
It works reasonably well one handed.
This is the second design for this purpose. I renamed the first one to old tea portioner.
The stand is not strictly required, but useful to keep the bottom of the portioner clean, and, depending on the sizes, to stabilize it a bit.
There are STL files for a number of sizes. 47 cm³ and 66 cm³ are the right amount of rooibos tea for my two teapots, 1 dm³ and 1.4 dm³. For other sizes you should use the customizer, or (when it is not working) download the
scad file, load it into OpenSCAD on your computer,set the volume and generate the three parts there. When you have a mass, look up the density in the FAO list, elsewhere, or measure yourself. Americans should look up the millilitres per teaspoon &c. in this list, and visit metric4us at their leisure after they printed their portioner.
As a reminder to everybody, millilitre and ml are just synonyms for cubic centimetre and cm³, as are litre, l, L or ℓ for cubic decimetre and dm³.
While i prefer this style, where you pour the tea, especially when you’re almost out of tea, there is, of course nothing wrong with using measuring spoons or scoops like things 682146 or 619626. Except from the use of lots of useless units, like two “fl.oz.”. That there are different fluid ounces is one of the many, big problems with non-SI units. Anyway, for both you should just use 30 cm³ instead. (When you need precision, you should use a graduated cylinder.)
The customizer works now, after i removed every non-ASCII character from its input.
Print this with low infill and enough top layers and perimeters. This should be an easy print. No falsework or similar required. The stand can be printed with 300 µm layers without problems.
After using my now old tea portioner a while, i noticed that the chute didn’t do its job all that well. I often spilled some tea leaves. So, instead of tweaking it here and there, i came up with this new design. It is, all in all, somewhat heavy. If you want to save a bit of filament, you can stick to the old one. I also used a simpler shape for the measuring space itself, simplifying the calculation considerably.
There are some more values that can be changed, like the height of the cylindrical section of the measuring space. Load the
SCAD file into OpenSCAD on your computer and tweak them there.
There is some design history available at my github repo.
- PLA seems to be better suited for food use than ABS, so you should use that. Or maybe PETG
- You should probably clean your nozzle once, to get rid of mineral oil and other residues.
- When you use an oiler, use a suitable oil. Maybe a vegetable oil or something like Ballistol oil.
- The food comes into contact with the printed parts for only a short time, and it is usually dry, so it should hardly be effected at all.
- When you use this for tea leaves, germs shouldn’t be too much of a problem either, as you pour boiling water over the leaves, which should deal with that. You should still keep the thing clean, of course.
These two articles shed some more light on the issue:
In the end, it is up to you. I can take no responsibility.