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lowfat

Monoprice Select Mini V2. Dual Fan Mount.

by lowfat Dec 19, 2017
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Anyone done any test prints before/after this mod? What are the overhangs like?

I ran into a huge problem on my first prints with this mount.

My first prints with this mount were very disappointing! My first layer adhesion was completely failing, so I leveled my bed, cleaned my Buildtak, fiddled with temperatures, all to no avail. But then I noticed that the part fan was on at full blast on the first layer!

As it turns out, the firmware on the MSMPv2 automatically turns on the fan if the hot end is above 60 degrees. This is no problem with the stock shroud as it does such a minimal of sending air to the part, but with this much better design, the fan on at full blast wrecks your adhesion.

My solution was tell Cura run the fan on the first layer at a speed of 1%. That's not enough to actually spin the fan, but the firmware sees that the fan is "on" and leaves it alone.

I found most of this solution at this Reddit thread:

https://www.reddit.com/r/MPSelectMiniOwners/comments/5l1m6f/why_does_the_fan_not_respond_to_gcode/

Printed in PETG.

Many thanks to lowfat!

(This is reposted from my make to help the next user. If it is not obvious, I have the hotend fan wired to the power supply directly, and the part fan connected to the normal switchable fan control.)

Monoprice Select Mini V2. Dual Fan Mount.

Thanks so much for the design! It works great on my printer. For anyone out there that is having trouble wiring. Wire your main cooling fan to your PCB board in your printer. Coming from the switch there are thicker gauge wires. Underneath there are some DC leads to solder your wires to. The fan will take the appropriate current it needs so there is no need to worry about frying the fan. As for the part fan, I spliced two separate wires going to parallel to the original cooling fan wire. Even with all three fans hooked up to my printer (extruder cooling fan, 2 part cooling fans) my printer is able to run them all with ease.

I added a little hot-glue to the centrifugal fan to seal the part with the fan. I would recommend making a hot end sock so that you won't lose hot end temperature with so much airflow.

Lastly, in order to shut the part cooling fan completely off during a print, set the cura fan setting to 1% and NOT 0%. This will actually shut off the fan once the printer has started printing. Oh and I have a MP Mini V2 if you were wondering.

I have a Mini V1, but have upgraded to the USWaterRockets V6 mount, and installed a V6 clone hotend. Any idea if this mount will work with that combo???
EDIT: also added a 40mm axial fan for heat sink cooling.

It wouldn't. This uses the stock V2 X carriage mounting and the USWaterRockets one is way different.

Printing it out now. I am not confident splicing or rewiring what came stock, not yet anyway, so I will also be rendering a box to hold a 9v battery pack and run it off of that.

Just printed, fits perfect. Can i feed both fans with the same 12V input? i mean joining the fans cable together

Yea, thats what I did. Works fine.

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You could. But I would maybe put a switch on the blower fan. Unless you are only ever going to only ever print pla.

Comments deleted.

I'm thinking about buying an extra fan and printing this mod. For those who have printed it, have you noticed an improvement to your prints?

Yes it definitely helps with PLA. I upgraded both extruder cooling fan and PCB fan with a noctura 40x10 and 40x20 respectively. They're so much quieter its unreal.

For me, it sticks too close to the hotend and too far downwards on the stock hotted with the "Stock" stl file.

What did you print it out of? I designed it to be close to to the nozzle, so it cools the plastic, but not the heater block. It shouldn't be low enough to drag on the prints. Do you have any pics?

Green Inland petg, which was a little rough due to the inadequate cooling and the fact I got it yesterday, but it was still pretty accurate mechanically. I did take a couple pictures that hopefully Illustrate the issue.

The distance from the heatsink to the heater block is WAY shorter on yours than mine. Do you have calipers that you could measure the distance (in mm) from the heatsink to the top of the heater block? See pic.

After measuring it measures at 6.5 mm. I’m still using the stock nozzle but I had to tighten it recently due to the fact that I had leakage on top of the heater block

Your heat block looks way wider than my V2. Is it oriented correctly?

My 50mm 5015S blower doesn't fit in this. I'm assuming the 5015 and the 5015S are different?

I'm not familiar w/ a 5015S. How doesn't it fit?

The dimensions of the area where the air is blown out of the fan are different. I'm doing some research on 5015 and 5015S blowers, and I'm seeing the dimensions could be 15x17.6mm or 15x19.8mm for either fan. I just depends on where you get it from. Would you mind sharing a version that works with 15x19.8mm?

You wouldn't happen to want to share the source file? I'd like to modify it to work with a 40mm fan.

I uploaded a STEP file the day I listed this on Thingiverse. But it is for the E3D version. I used the same project and just made the minor adjustments for the various hotends.

So the stock version of the v2 runs a e3d v5 hot end. Can you bolt this to the stock carriage and use the v5?

Yes, you would use the 'Dual_Fan_Mount_Stock.stl' file if you are using the stock hot end.

Thank you! also what does everyone do to hook up the radial fan, power it inline with the other one or directly connect to psu

It depends on your board. I'm hearing that some some firmware versions of the stock board will always run the fan at full speed once the hot end reaches a certain temperature. Try sending a 'M106 S1' to your printer and heat up the hot end. If the fan stays off then good. In that case you woulduse the radial fan on the fan header on the board and run the hot end cooling fan right off the power supply. Add 'M106 S1' to your starting GCODE. Then just have your slicer turn the part cooling fan on / off if necessary. If the printer turns the fan back on then unfortunately you'll just need to wire the radial fan to a switch and manually turn it on/off as needed.

what e3d mount does this connect to? Thank you

I've used w/ the stock MS V2, an E3D V6, and an E3D V6 w/ a Volcano. What issue are you having?

I am looking for this mount (see attached image). I can't seem to find an e3d v6 mount that fits this part. thanks mate

This part screws in to that piece, sandwiching the E3D V6 hot end between then.

ok. Do you know where I can find that piece shown in the picture?

You could get print a whole replacement carriage but that piece specifically unfortunately no.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2353376

Monoprice Select Mini GT2 Carriage for E3Dv6 Style Nozzle

How did you adjust the wiring? I would guess the hotend fan gets constant 12v from somewhere and the part cooling fan replaces the existing. Also, was there a specific reason for running the bowden tube separate from the wiring? More consistent extruder pressure?

You could set the hot end fan to run off w/ the control board fan. Then use the part cooling fan w/ the existing fan wiring. You'll need to set 'M106 S1' in your starting GCODE so the part cooling fan doesn't run all the time. If you are printing PLA or whatever, just have it turn on layer 2 as you normally would.

Having the bowden tube seperate just makes it easier to clear a jam if that happens. No real other benefit as far as i know.