CR-10 / Ender-3 Z-Axis End Stop Adjustment

by JarrodASmith Dec 22, 2017
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Gr8! Thank you very much!

What size nut and bolt does this require?

According to the notes in the description it's a M3x30 screw with 2 M3 nuts. (plus the stock components)

Thanks, I didn't see that. Although I have printed and am currently using this.

Anyone printed in PLA? or is PETG or ABS recomended for extra strength?

PLA is fine unless maybe you have an enclosure? Not sure if it would get hot enough to matter, I don’t have one.

Hey, wanted to point out that the second hammer nut from the top as shown in your pictures is flipped upside-down and wouldn't be doing its job. Did you happen to catch and fix that before putting the parts back on your printer?

Just happened to notice. Will be printing this soon!

I've since got this printed and mostly assembled - gonna need to file the bottom of the bridge on the main part for the knob to fit... Which makes me wonder, if you chamfered the block and the place it goes into, couldn't you print this in a different orientation to avoid bridging, apart from where the M3 nut is trapped?

If you have, and are willing to share, the STEP files, I can show you what I mean by making the modifcation myself as a remix.

Probably. An important thing to recognize is that since the tolerances on this are somewhat tight you need to print all the parts in the same orientation relative to how it will be assembled. That way, if any axis is off by a bit, the errors cancel out. I think a better solution is to try dialing in bridging on your printer - it isn't a very wide bridge.

I probably noticed the hammer nut before putting it back together. Not sure though, good catch :-)

In what I'm suggesting, both the block and the main part would be printed in the same orientation again, too.

The issue isn't bridging, it's that any bridged part with a hole in it is going to come out messy, just like it did in your pictures. The easy fix would be to actually add one or two solid layers to the bottom of the hole, to be "poked out" later on. There's another trick I've seen floating around somewhere that involves adding "flaps" in alternating orientations to help the bridging work out, too, but I'd need to try and find the reference material for that.

Good point I should have thought about that - it's so obvious now that you say it. I'll take a look.

The knob doesn't appear to be manifold, so I ran it through Netfabb (fixed version on the right). I've also attached the repaired model if you wanted to update your design.

Updated, thank you. That's odd, I guess F360 has issues on circular patterns? Don't know but I guess Cura must fix it automagically since I never noticed it. Thanks again.


Good to know. Got mine yesterday, putting it together today!

I have installed it on my cr-10 and it has worked really well. I don't need to level all the bed every time I change the mirror anymore.


Sweet, glad it worked for you! Thanks for the encouraging feedback.

Appreciate the number of pictures that you included that show in detail how to install your parts... others should follow your example !

Thanks, that is a pet peeve of mine as well so I try to make it easier!