The Pitan Geared Extruder
06 October 18
- Had both of mine printed in PLA and still going strong after close to 1.5 years of almost daily printing. Just make sure the gears are aligned well and that the small one is not the wrong way around (it goes in with the chamfer towards the motor, that means the "arrow" shaped teeth need to point left, clockwise, when the motor is on the table with the axle pointing up). Also, don't use a lot of idler tension. If your MK8 skips you most likely trying to squeeze too much plastic for that particular speed/temperature/nozzle combo.
03 June '18
31 Jan '18
- Fusion files included. They are a mess sorry!
- Corrected the spring size to 6mm OD, 12-15mm length and 0.8-1mm wire thickness
11 Jan '18
- Updated to v1.1 with smaller 695zz bearings (there are smaller 5mm ID bearings out there but they will not last long), smaller bolts and lighter, more compact body. Using two mirrored Pitans, direct to E3D v6, we can have the nozzles as close as 22.8mm. Mirrored files are included
The E3D Titan is arguably the lightest end smaller standalone Geared Extruder you can buy.
The Pitan is a cheap and easy to print geared extruder inspired by the Titan.
With no discernable performance differences between them, it has the same 3:1 gear reduction, easy to see/clean drive gear, supported path for 1.75mm and 3mm filaments and it can be used with any Titan mount, bowden or direct drive. Filament feed path is on the idler arm and just as easy to load like the original Titan and It has virtually the same number of parts.
See the remixes for 625zz Bearings, Bowden Metal Fitting and other types of holders
1x Nema17 12.7N-cm stepper motor
1x M5x35mm Hex Head Bolt
1x M5 Nylon Nut Or one 2mm high for a mirrored setup
1x M5 Washer OR a printed one
1x 11mm Mk8 Drive Gear
3x M3x30mm Hex Socket Bolts
1x M3x15mm Hex Socket Bolt
1x M3 Nut
1x M3x10mm Bolt OR 1x 3x10mm Screw for the Idler
1x M4x10mm Bolt (Hex Socket or Button Head) OR E3d Thumbscrew
1x M4 Nut
1x 6x15x1mm Spring - Ebay - 6mm OD/ 12-15mm length/ 0.8-1mm wire thickness
2x 695zz Bearings
1x 623zz Bearing
1x Bowden plastic coupling from https://goo.gl/aJjGJi in UK or in US https://goo.gl/Mda5wX
1x Bowden Groove Mount from https://goo.gl/mu18Lo
A typical Pitan has the following printed parts:
- Idler Lever
- Gear 1 (small)
- Gear 2 (big)
- 1mm Washer
- Filament Guide (1.75 or 3mm)
- Base ( ie "2-3mm Base" for the standard Titan holder, "45deg" for a Delta printer etc)
Same goes for a Mirrored extruder, except you will obviously need the parts with "Mirror" in the title.
Few things to have in mind:
- I use cheap MK8 drive gears and they work well enough. I imagine something like these https://goo.gl/bJFeka sold by E3D work with less pressure on the idler bearing due to sharper teeth. Spare 625zz bearings are a lot cheaper though
- Supports are needed only for the Idler Lever
- I've printed everything with a 0.4mm nozzle, in PLA (including gears which had lasted for hundreds of hours and counting). Print the small gear at 0.4mm extrusion width and 3 perimeters (see the pictures for how it should look in your slicer). Print gears and filament guide at 80% infill, 100u layer hight and everything else at 200u, 50% infill.
- To check your sizing, test print 5mm of the "Body" first. It should be 42x42mm if you don't measure the bearing hole. There are 0.1mm tolerances on each side where a part touches the other. That means 12.2mm hole for a 12mm E3D V6 and the V6 fits well with a bit of pressure. Step files are included if you need to change sizes to suit your printer.
- The small gear is tight and it needs to be forced on the axle down to about 1mm from the bottom. "Very Important": It goes in with the chamfer towards the motor. That means the "arrow" shaped teeth need to point left, clockwise, when the motor is on the table with the axle pointing up.
- Filament Guide only goes in one way, it has a notch on the tip that has to face up
- You need to file flat a bit of the M5 bolt thread, so the drive gear grub screw could hold
- Fit the M5 washer between the large gear and the first bearing.
The Idler Lever bolt can also be fitted from the other side.
Make sure the two gears are aligned and "most importantly" that they are not the other way around. It is very easy to fit the small one wrong (it should go in with the chamfer towards the motor) and they will work like that but harder and will not last long.
- I've used a bit of grease on the gears and under the M5 nut.
- Tighten the M5 nut and drive gear screw last. Do the M5 nut tight then the grub screw and then loosen the M5 nut until you can move the gears easily by hand.
- The M5 nut may get tight by itself over time. Make a mark on the bolt to see if it moves
Chamfer a bit the inside of the PTFE tube and push it all the way in the filament guide.
There is no need for a lot of idler tension. If your MK8 skips you most likely trying to squeeze too much plastic for that particular speed/temperature/nozzle combo.
- On my Kossel I'm using the two 2020 45deg mounts on X and Y towers. In the files you will also find a universal base and one straight mount
Parts with "Logo" in the title have the Making'Bug logo on them
Kudos go to E3D for the Titan https://goo.gl/fcBWLu and to AxMod3DPrint for his Drakon Extruder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172854
-- I've printed everything with a 0.4mm nozzle, in PLA (including gears which had lasted for hundreds of hours and counting).
-- Print the small gear at 0.4mm extrusion width and 3 perimeters.
-- Print both gears and the filament guide at 80% infill, 100u layer hight
-- Print everything else at 200u, 50% infill
-- Supports are needed only for the Idler Lever