Lithophane Lamp v4/v3

by GrkManga Dec 24, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

What filament should be used? I am guessing white PLA.

Yep. You can print the lithophanes in other light colors as well.

Hello photos must be resize to how much before putting them on http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/

Comments deleted.

You can resize then to anything. It just needs to be a square for 3dp rocks to make a square lithophane

you resize them to how much you

Have I printed this wrong I make the bottom of the base flat on the bed that printed perfect. I tried printing the top with the top on the bottom and the holes pointing up. but my slicing software makes the lip start a line in the middle of the air. I noticed it whilst its still printing. but it did manage to make the lip after about 2 layers.. so fingers crossed its okay :)..

Any tips for the lid or should I use supports..

Sorry not very informative I use simplify3d to slice this baby at a height of 0.2
My lithos I do at a height of 0.1

its freaking amazing so thank you. It actually printed really even with the 2 sacrificed layers. Once You pop a lithophane in their you dont see it so I am WRAPPED now to wait for all the other ones to print. man. Christmas is coming fast.. :)

That's good to hear that it came out good :) I have made a few more for gifts to give out as well

It's all good. For the top just use supports for the lip that holds the lithophane :)

Thank you for posting this.

Can I ask, how did you connect all four positive, and all four negative wires together when connecting them to the power adapter? Did you use a store bought connector, or just solder everything together and cover with heat shrink? It's hard to tell from the image where you show the internals.

Also, any issues running these kinds of lights in parallel instead of in series, like they are typically connected?

Even if you wire them in series, they're connected in parallel ;-)

Seriously: in the usual 12 V LED strips, there's a +/- 12V line pair running the whole length of the strip. Groups of three LEDs plus one resistor are wired in series (between the cutting marks) and all those groups are connected in parallel to the +/- 12V lines. As long as you cut at the marks, it doesn't matter whether you connect all your cuts in parallel to your supply, or wire the next segment in series with the previous.

Yep. I connected all positives to one wire and one negative to another wire and just added a heat shrink tube over each wire. You can use connecters if you want, I didn't have any on hand so I just did what I could do at the current time. The way I have them wired was in parallel. If you have a small breadboard that would make wiring them easier.

Search for Christmas presents 2018 solved ;-)

Just one comment for those people who want to use this with a G4/G9 base: don't try to run a halogen bulb in there, please. At least not while you're not there in person to watch the PLA melting.

Ahh yes, I hope everyone is using LED's as well. Let me know how it turns out! Always looking to see if there is an area to improve on.

One thing I'm going to change: replace the power connector with an Arduino Nano and add a rotary encoder, then use WS8211 LEDs for the illumination. Thanks a lot for providing the f3d files.

I made this (v3) but the lithophanes didnt fit at all. I copied your 3dp.rocks settings exactly and my printer settings are dialed in fine. I ended up breaking the lamp base trying to get a lithophane in and this was after sanding the lithophane and the base. Am i best printing the base at like 102% scale?

With the lithophane width setting being set to 75.4mm, scaling it by 102 might be a bit too much. Even at 1.01 it will scale the length to about 76.15mm. if it's just a tad too tight, try something like 1.005%. sorry to hear that it broke, I have broke some as well at the start

OK thank you very much. After a few measurements, I found its the thickness of the lithophanes which is the problem. My lithophanes are 2.98mm thick so that's all OK, it's the holder itself. For some reason the layers are curling in slightly stopping the lithophanes fitting. I am trying to print at 80mm/s so I may slow it down and see if that helps.

Can you upload 100mm versions of the magnet top and base or load their fusion file so I can modify the variable myself?

Sure thing. Just pay attention to the notice I added as it contains the formula I am using for the parametric feature. If you have any questions just let me know and I can help you through it or make changes to the file and simplify the formula/variables.

Thanks a bunch!!! I saw the notice that was at the bottom of the page when I was playing around with the other version. It took a little looking to find the parameter stuff but once I did everything sized perfectly...that was a pretty sweet setup. I'm printing the lithophanes right now and will print this later this week when I change the color. I'll size this up and prep for printing and measure the hole sizes to look for magnets and screws for next time I'm at the store. Hopefully I have it all done and shipped before xmas.

Not really sure how to release the new version. Should I create a new thing or just add it to this one instead?

decide yet? I'm good either way, just want to see what you came up with :)

How is The elusive v4 coming along? Haha

Ran into a few hiccups and distractions but I have it finished. I don't have any lithophanes to add to it as my printers are printing contracted jobs but I shall release it.

I would like to try the G9 base, would the G9 socket wires work with the adapter and power supply you shared? I am handy but no electrician haha, just want to make sure I have the right things! thanks for any help. Printed first design and it was great but gave it away before I took pictures.

Thank you Neonblur. Unfortunately I do not believe that G9 bulbs run on DC power. I have only found them to run from 110V AC lines. There is an alternative tho.
If you do want to use the power supply in the description or anything that runs with 12V DC power, you may want to look into G4 bulbs instead.

I do not have the G4 base set to use the adapter but I can easily modify the .stl to use it or you can download the Fusion file and modify to your needs as well.

If you have the time to modify it that would be awesome (Fusion and I are not the best of friends but I'm learning haha) Unless there is a better way of connecting to the G4 bulb. I tried doing a google search but found it very hard to narrow down. I found bulbs and sockets that will work with the parts you have listed but am not set on it. My electrical know how only goes so far and i don't want my gift to go up in flames haha. Thank you for your help!

Alright alright. Take a look at the .Stl I have posted. I will be uploading this to the main page as well

The new g9 base stl has wrong dimentions it´s
the orginal is 105,4x105,4x93,4

I see I have forgotten to revert my parametric settings after I printed out a big version of the box. Thanks for letting me know. Sorry if I caused anyone any issues with this. I will go about and recompile the stl's .

All done. I have release the fusion files as well for anyone wanting to print out at a different size.

Nice design printed one but the holes in the bottom is fits g4 socket not g9 socket.
G9 is 17mm cc between holes your design is 12.5mm
Only printed top layer 0.8mm and the pegs that holds de topp braked.
Gonna print it thicker next time.

Here is g9

My G9 ceramic sockets are 12.5mm between the holes. So what do i need to print now, G9 or G4 for the 12.5mm hole distance?

That looks like a G4 socket :)

The mounting holes for G9 are about 17mm and the G4's are 12mm. I'll add this information to the front page :D

Well UK G9 sockets are 12.5mm. Ive mesaured mine and they are 230v (G9) and its 12.5mm.

I wouldn't have known there would be a regional difference. Thanks for bringing it up. Do you need me to have the base edited or can you modify the source files for this?

Unfortunately I don't have a clue about editing BUT the G4 base fits my G9 holders perfect so it's fine. Thank you.

Thanks for the feedback Zupe. It is sometimes hard for me to model stuff that I don't own. I will set out to correct the dimensions.
Sorry to hear that the pegs broke off for you. Try increasing the infill percentage or wall count. I am also working on a version which gets rid of those pegs. I should be testing it out soon

Love the design! When I click on your amazon links, they just take me to the main page. Any chance you could update them? Just want to make sure I get the correct parts :)

Thank you :) I have another one coming out soon. This one is shaped a bit differently to hide the seams a bit better as well as another small surprise.

Let me see about the links for you.

good afternoon, how can I make a square with the right measurements for this cube, I made a picture and it is only 7 inches high, I need 7 inches x 4 sides, how can I do it? . Would you help me ? thank you

Hello Ricardo. do you want to put 7x4 inch lithophanes? And if so, how thick?

Yes, I want the measurements of your cube Base_V3_75mm G9 Bulb.stl.
I tried to print with the measurements that are in the example, but only 75cm high, half of the square is missing. I sent an example photo attached

I want to fill all the sides with the right measures. 75x4 sides

Ahh okay I understand. You need to make sure the image is a square when you use the site (http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/). If it is not a square, it will do that. You can try cropping the picture or you can load it in paint and add stuff to it. Just make sure when you modify it, that the picture is square before you create the .stl

This is cool I,m printing the case now and setting up the lithos. Did you do negative or positive image setting?

I did the positive image setting :) This settings will make the dark sections thicker when you print out the lithophane.

Nice one, I was designing something like this... Just question, I've tried a lot to print plane lithophanes on my printer, but printing it layed down don't make really good resolution and printing it stand up, as the base is just 3 mm, produce some serious defects... as it can't stand without moving from the base.

Any tip for it? thank you in advice :D

Ug. I just posted some tips for you but my comment was flagged for moderation after I edited it. Hopefully its posted soon.

I've printed a standing lithophane by using a raft with 15mm raft margin. Probably too much but it stuck to the bed nicely and completed successfully. My observation is the viewing surface shows the layers but is still more detailed than printing horizontally.

Sorry to hear that your post got flagged for moderation. When I read it in my email, you provided some good advice. Hopefully the moderators can look at it soon and unflag it.

What I do when I print lithophanes is add glue stick to the bed so that the print sticks a lot better and doesn't wobble as much. I also add a big brim as well to help keep it in place. When positioning the lithophane in the slicer, I have it set so that the picture's thin edge faces the front and back (when you look at your lithophane from your printer, you should only see the side of the lithophane instead of the picture). This helps reduce it wobbling from moving forward and backwards on the print bed. After that, I try to enable z hop as well so it doesn't travel across the print and move it. Last but not least, I also try to print slow as well. I know it can take a long time to print a lithophane at slow speeds and low layer heights, but it will give you a crisper image in the end.

Hope this helps you to get some great looking lithophanes!

It is best to print lithophanes standing, not flat. You get greater detail. I have tried printing lithophanes standing up with a brim but for some reason my brim curls if I am not there to push it down with a putty knife so I decided to use a raft but I had to change the air gap (if it is a big print) from .3 to 0 so the lithophane sticks to the raft good. The only issue doing this is that the lithophane sticks too good to the raft and will break if you are not careful. I use the wire cutter that came with my 3d printer and cut the raft off carefully. Make sure you print at slow speeds 45mms and I drop the travel speed to 90mms. Also, if your lithophane is not for a box/picture frame then you can add a stand to it on the 3dp.rocks program. Make sure your resolution/layer height is set correct. My printer has a .4mm nozzle so I print lithophanes at .4mm intervals. For instance, for a good detail print I would print at a layer height of .16, if I want a faster print I would set it to .2 or .24. I am no expert and have only been printing for a year but these settings have worked wonders for me. Hope this helps and I will be printing this thing in the next day or 2 to add to my collection.

I would add to deathwarden's comment by suggesting that you orient the lithophane's viewing surface on the same axis as your printer's most accurate axis. In my case, with a CR-10S, that is the X axis. The rational is the X axis has the least mass and is, therefore, more accurate in resolving the thickness or "greyscale" of the lithophane.

Thanks for sharing, this looks like a great lamp to try.

Thank you :) I appreciate the comment