Do you have a 3D systems cube that has soul crushing print failures?
Often the cause for print failures is old and brittle 3DS filament that breaks in the feed path when being fed into the top nozzle. The default 3DS system puts a lot flexing stress on the filament and the feed tubing is fragile usually leading to clogs and print failures.
This is a "bowden" PTFE tube assembly replacement that is intended to limit the amount of flex and reduce friction on the filament as it is fed into the extruder. With the help of the 3DS filament "hack" non 3DS filament can also be used.
The "HubCap" can be used without the "HubClip" by the installed magnets. The "HubClip" will clip in-place to add extra security, is designed to help channel the stepper cooling fan air to the metal extruder housing and provides a filament feed guide. TO remove the Hubclip, simply pull straight off.
This "kit" consists of 4 separate 3D printed parts. It also uses several parts from the stock 3DS filament cartridge.
The additional parts needed are:
3DS Cube metal extruder housing, HOBB bearings and screws etc.
3DS Cube metal nozzle tip
3DS Cube nozzle spring
3DS Cube 3mm PTFE tub3
3DS Cube Filament Chip from cartridge housing.
PTFE Teflon tubing 2mm ID 4mm OD https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/1-Meter-Low-Friction-Bowden-Tubing/p/82190682/category=23214267
2x M6 Pneumatic quick fittings. https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/4-Pack-PC4-M6-Fittings/p/84203147/category=25823850
M6 thread tap (matching the pneumatic fittings you are using) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071VKZ2DC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2x 8mm wide 3mm thick Neodymium Disc Magnets https://www.homedepot.com/p/MASTER-MAGNETICS-0-3-in-x-0-11-in-Neodymium-Rare-Earth-Magnet-Discs-10-per-Pack-07045HD/202526363
The purpose of this was to get my cube printing again at 70nm without filament failure, the stock parts were simply not working at all.
However the fix has a few potentially frustrating aspects.
The filament needs to be loaded by turning the hobb-gear with a screw driver. The filament tends to get curled by the gear so initially feeding filament past the extruder into the PTFE tube may take several tries. I found it best to have the filament cut at an angle to help the end slip past the small inner edge between the extruder and pneumatic quick fitting. Once loaded, I tend not to change the filament often.
The "HubClip" is intended to be as simple as possible to print. The clip section that inserts into the cube printer can be fragile depending upon the material printed and settings used. I use ABS, as I found PLA to be less flexible. The clip can be hard to remove, but I simply pull it straight off or use a flat head screw diver to ply it loose on one side first.
- Be careful when installing and removing the printed head, it is best to wait until it has cooled off to make any adjustments. Polycarbonate is more resistent to heat compared to PLA and ABS.
Big thanks to the members on 3Dprintforum.com in particular
TommyDee, MegaloDon, bolsoncerrado, Mythandar, and ztoddman1
.4 nozzle size, 200 microns for the Hubcap and HubClip.100nm for the Nozzle
30% for the Hubcap and HubClip. 95% for the Nozzle
The parts can likely be printed on a 3DS cube, I did all my test printing on Lulzbot Taz 5.
All the parts can be printed in PLA, PETG, ABS or PC. I have tested the hub with PLA and ABS and the nozzle with PLA and Polymaker PC Plus.
I highly recommend:
- Using Polymaker PC Plus (or regular Polycarbonate filament) for the print nozzle if you have prints lasting over and hour. The housing is close to the heater black and gets warm.
- Instead of PLA, print using PETG if possible.
- Using Simplify3D to prepare the file as the supports will be easy to remove.
- If using PLA/PETG/ABS, waiting of the nozzle to cool down before removing or changing filament, otherwise you risk head coming apart or deforming too much.
Step #1 Print Cleaup
Cleanup printed parts. The Nozzle is designed to print with a .4mm to .6mm thread clearance.
Step #2 Tapping
Bolt the 3DS metal housing together and tap the filament output end for the M6 Pneumatic quick fitting.
Step #3 Tapping
Tap the top of the nozzle housing for the M6 Pneumatic quick fitting.
Step #4 Pneumatic fitting adjustment
Enlarge ONE Pneumatic quick fitting tapped end using a 3mm or 7/64" drill bit, to make room for the stock 3mm 3DS PTFE tube.
Step #5 Cut 3mm PTFE tube
Cut a section of the 3mm 3DS PTFE tube to 38mm in length. This will be inserted into the metal nozzle tip (the tip needs to be is clean and clear or filament). The other end will fit into the Pneumatic quick fitting that was enlarged
Step #6 Cut 4mm PTFE tube
Cut the bowden PTFE Teflon tubing to about 455mm or 18" in length
Step #7 Assembly
Assemble the various parts, please refer to the photos for guidance.
Carefully remove the filament chip from the 3DS cartridge. I can be peeled off and its adhesive re-used to attach it to the HubCap
STL parts modeled in Modo using Mesh Fusion. Photos of install is using Capricorn XS Tubing instead of plain white PTFE tubing.
Hub installed with nozzle. The feed tubes should NOT be tucked into the printer housing.
Side "HubCap" and "HubClip" with eSun filament loading into the bottom.
Nozzle assembled, printed using Polymaker PC Plus.
All the parts. HubCap and HubClip printed in "natural" Protoparadigm ABS filament. Nozzle top and bottom printed in white Polymaker PC Plus filament.
Bottom of hubcap and hubclip w filament chip installed. Note the alignment of the chip.
Top of nozzles installed.
Extruder housing on HubCap with magnets glued in place.
Inside hubcap w chip and housing installed.
Tapped extruder housing w M6 fitting.
Nozzle parts with fitting opening enlarged to ~3mm