Anet A8 Electronics Box

by feenix82 Dec 29, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

I flipped it over and got a really good print out of it

What screws to use?!

nvm, drilled the holes up and used some screws i had :)

great parts! I printed the box first and had a problem with my bed clips and my fan on my Anet A8 hit one another.. and shifted the bed at 80% complete.. fixed that and printed the lid and fan cover with no supports on any of the parts and printed perfect. so thanks for the design.. will reprint the box next should go great. I will post a make and you can rate yourself..

Hi there i just wanted to let you know that i printed this out and it came out very good the only thing i need to know is what size screws did you use to fasten the lid to the base also on the right side at the bottom you have an extension on it why didn't it print that

Comments deleted.

great case I'm using it now any chance of you adding room for TL smoothers in the future

I did such a good cable management with this box. Unfortunately I have to start over cause now my printer won't print items that are taller than 14cm :-(( (I didn't any space for cables)

Sir are you able to make another case with reset button cover like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yb6Tnjm7BaI&index=1&list=WL&t=0s
If not can you share the dimension for the cover? thanks!

How do you wire the fan to work?

This is a nice box, though it can be tricky to print unless the printer is working 100%

Very cool looking mosfets!

If you can send me the dimensions of the mosfet (length/width - hole offsets) I can put something together pretty quickly

Hey Stewie,

Those MOSFETS wont fit in the current case design without running into the mainboard and the case is at the size limits for the A8. (see image attached).

Happy to give you the blender file in confidence if you want to play around with it though



Hey Stewie,

Sorry I have been flat-out with my garage being rebuilt in the last few weeks. I will have a look today and let you know how I go



Hey man, if you could give me original files (step, sldprt, or what ever you use) i could rebuild it for this new mosfets. But i need to have those files in solid, not mesh or stl.

I will when i get back home.

I really like this clean design and especially the cover with 120mm fan! I adapted the mounts for AM8 Misumi extrusions and it's printing right now. If it works out I'll post a remix. Thanks!

I've only printed the bottom Layer as I wanted open air enclosure and just something to hold the mosfets but great design man many thanks!

If anyone is looking for the enclosure that will house the larger heat sink mosfits by SIMPZIA. It is also designed by feenix82 and an excellent design. It printed perfectly.
You can find the additional design here:

SIMPZIA Anet A8 Electronics Box

Very nice. Do you have a matching one for Raspberry Pi(Octoprint)?

Hey, not yet but it’s on the list!

I am printing this right now. Will i need any extra screws for this?

Hey, great design! I'm having trouble with adhesion though. I've tried several different things: glass, glue, hairspray, tape, etc... What did you use for adhesion, and what were your print conditions/temperatures.

This i have found to be a bed levelling problem, try moving the bed closer to the nozzle. And also try and find some painters tape with a rough feel to it. The Blue ones seem to be the best. I have found some in Wilkos in the UK that's very good. Reasonable priced, but i have found it's best to pre-heat your bed because it can shrink. With laying it down on a warm bed you can get a very good, neat edge join. If you put it on a cold Bed it opens a gap between the Tape when it warms up.

Get some "Level Spacers" printed, and use them with a Level Sensor. I was always messing with the Butterfly nut levelling out the Bed until i did this, always warm the Bed before changing any setting its the working temperature. Hope this helps with adhesion.

Hey thanks! I use a buildtak surface I got from Torwell (http://www.torwell3d.com.au), it’s brilliant. I print with PLA 200-210 with a bed temp of 50 (not that pla requires it)

This is super cool. i am printing it and not getting super results... i wonder if there are better vent shape options. I think most of my issues are related to the number of starts and stops (retractions).. its like the first mm or 2 are missing material randomly... i boosted the extruder temp to help improve flow and stickage, but now i get a bit of a sag in the hexagons..

i opened mesh mixer with lots of confidence that i could replace the hexagons with sort of a hot dog shaped slots.. my ignorance noped me. so i am here to ask you.

do you have any of the source files? or can you make the mod?

I Love this layout and all the cable management you have created. brilliant.

Hey thanks for the great feedback,

I have just done a MK2 version which will be up shortly but it still has the hex holes.

I like the idea though of having a choice of vent hole shapes and will be willing to make a few designs and throw them up. If you can give me a rough sketch of the “hotdog” design I can put it together.

In regards to printing I print my first layer at 15mms and the rest at 30mms although I have also had good results up to 70 mms. I run pla at 210 and retraction at 25mms


i just remixed your design.. check it out.

The funny part is that it may not print any better.... Oo

Anet A8 Electrical Box Alternate

Any chance of a Raspberry Pi Zero W mount being added somewhere? Maybe on top/side? Or even in front of the mainboard, between that and the face?

Otherwise great design! I'll print it in the next few days. How long should this realistically take to print?


A Pi mount will be down the track (when I get one!) But I am thinking about a modular type design.

I re-printed a improved version of the case last night (it will be up soon) and i took roughly 12 hours at 0.2 and 70mm/s

Cool Design. Is this fit for Anet A6?

I think so, the mounting holes are mapped from the mainboard on the A8 which is the same (i think) on the A6 so it should be good to go

Not sure... i have just printed it and on first sight it doesn't compare with all the holes in the frame. i'll let you know tommorow when i dismount my board and cables. Even if it doesn't fit it's a nice model and looks tidy on the pics!


If it doesn’t fit let me know the offsets of the mounting holes (centre to centre left to right and centre to centre top to bottom) and I can jig one up for the A6



Hello feenix82
I just wanted to let you know that this does not fit the A6 as is. While the hole pattern for the board is perfect, the mounting holes on the side panel of the A6 are much lower than the A8. If you take your box and set it on the base of the machine, the mounting holes for the board on the side panels are about 5mm lower than that. Not a big deal, I'll just drill some new holes, but I just wanted to let you know for future reference. Well done on the design.

After looking for a fix. I think the easiest fix for A6 users out there would be to move the box up so that the bottom two mounts on the box use the upper two holes on the panel, then drill one hole for the upper right mount on the box into your panel. You will only be able to use three on the four mounting holes, but I think the box is sturdy enough for that. (Hope that makes sense)

Just wondering what the mounting screw distances were for the mosfets? There are a few models out there and wanted to make sure it will fit before printing.


I will try and get this information for you tonight



About to print this up to cleanup my cables and boards and you really print this without supports? The cable raceways will print without supports? Just wondering if that span prints correctly.

It did for me, I have had a few others print as well without supports successfully. However there is never any harm in adding them for your own piece of mind

Yup you were right, printed up just fine without supports. Cheers.

How did you wire your fan up? did you just get adapters and run another set of wires going to the power supply or did you tap into an existing power cable from possibly the mosfets.

Also wanted to point out that i made all of these at "draft quality 0.2mm" with a layer height of .3 and everything else at the default settings for the preset of draft quality with NO supports and it printed out perfect and saved me like 3 hours. Went from 9 to 6 hours. Did this for both the body and cover.


I'm running an ATX PSU so wired up to one of the 5V rails off it. From what I have read you should be able to piggy back the fan off the extruder fan though

Ah i have a new power supply as well but its just a 12v 30amp 360w. it has 3 12v dc outputs i want to hook it up with 7v so its not running extremely fast all the time. And i dont want to add a controller.I could use a converter or make my own 7v converter but doesnt seem viable. any ideas? (the fan im getting is 7v - 12v) So i cant run on 5v.

Have you considered this?


I was thinking to wiring up 2 coolers - from MB & power supply and to attach LED strip to this thing (if it would not burn afterwards).
You can always adjust speed of your fans. Downside is - you cannot completelly turn them off.

So to use this cover without a fan, just attach the 120mm fan cover?

Yep that will work

here you are repaired/redesigned version :)

pls update stl :)

next error i see. Missed right down hole for wires

Hi Atatoth,

I'm not sure what you mean by repair the STL, it renders as expected in Cura, are you using Slic3r? I had a quick look at the STL you attached and as you mentioned the lower hole is now closed and will not work.

Are you able to give me a screen shot of the error you see and I will see if I can fix it up with the software I have?


For some reason, the hole behind the mainboard did not get omitted from the print and as a result, I had a solid wall behind the mainboard. Not a big issue but a bit strange none the less."

Gotcha, I checked the 3D file and there was a bunch of missing faces that were causing the issue

;) i print box today and i hate supports off :D from this bridges :D for wires :D but now i'm happy to install this and tomorrow i print lid :)


lid need to be repaired too :(

Good Stuff!!

I have just checked the lid and fixed those issues too. The file will be up shortly. Thanks for your help with this!

now the lid is ok but right down hole for wires in box are need to be repaired and when repair done hole has closed

I did remove the outer pipe and I moved the hole further to the top, it's not just these changes is it? I cant find any unconnected faces

no problem :) thx for the box ;) but now i must buy 120mm fan :P i have only 80

not to worry I just uploaded a 120 - 80mm fan bracket you can print. Hopefully no issues with this model!

I have made one change (and uploaded) but I wouldn't have thought it would cause an issue

something wrong with your projects all must be repaired and bottom cover after repair don't have empty square

I really like your design but I just don't get everyone's obsession with external mosfet boards. The controller board has mosfets on it that are way over rated for what they are controling.

I have successfully added a 24V power supply for the heat bed on several of my printers without using an external mosfet board. Most of the mosfets I have seen used for 3D printers are rated at 60V @ 40-50 amps.

Your method of securing the excess cable length is great! Your design makes a very clean install.

Thanks for the comments Battman.

I added the mosfets based on research, recommendations and the fear of my house burning down! :D

It's good to know that the later controller boards have been improved over earlier versions

I agree with you, I myself have a board from 2017, for older versions have the external Mosfetts quite legitimate.

PS: Great Box!