Prusa i3 MK2/MK3 Raspberry Camera Mount

by jgeyer Dec 30, 2017
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Hey you mentioned you added a version for the mk3s, but didn't say which file. I think the "longer" file should be renamed to mk3s, would be more clear. As of now there is basically no way to find out other than crashing the head into the camera on the standard print.

Otherwise this is a fantastic design. Screws are far, far better than the ball mount.


Thank you for the file. It works well and I like it, but alas I have the 45 degree fan as well and it needs to be longer.
Any chance you can lengthen it by 20mm?

The MK3 kit no longer comes with spare 18mm M4's at least not in my spare kit, so I'm using two M4x10's leaving one protruding from the side, better than nothing, thanks for the model.

The Longer version still does not fit with the 45 degree fan. The arm should be around 20mm longer.

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Great design - have been very happy with it.

I have just upgraded to the R3 extruder and fan mounts and now that the part fan is angled, it fouls on the camera mount.

Just wondering whether you have done the upgrade yet and how you suggest the camera mount be modified.



Having the same issue..

Thanks jgeyer for sharing this design.

Maybe a stupid question but how do i connect the mount on to the bed?
Could you please post a photo? :)


Tried putting it on the right side and right angled instead of front angled and that won't work, it'll slam against the undercarriage. Oh well. :) The camera mount itself is fantastic.

I have everything needed to set up my camera but i have a small problem, I dont have a long enough cable!!! Where did you buy yours and how much was it?

Thanks! One problem though, I need a cable that is smaller on one side because of my raspberry pi zero w needing the smaller side. Is there an adapter for that?

Does anyone know if this would actually fit in the Ikea Lack enclosure that Prusa posted about? I already purchased all my parts for it so I'm hoping so!

I know the clearance with the front of the plexiglass will be close.


I made a bracket for the lack/mk3 that uses these parts :)

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It makes the printer about 5cm longer on the front side with bed moved to max Y position. Let me know if current version fits the enclosure. If not, I can update the version with camera holder going straight (instead 45 degrees) which should work.

I like the remixed version, when it is placed on the left side for easier flex cable management.
Can you post a pictures from the bottom side to see how did you placed the cables? Or a short video with moving plate would be great too.

After experimenting with a few other designs I found yours and made it - it works great! I had to go with the 'looser' version. The other one was too tight. I also printed the 'holder' with support to maintain its form during printing. Printed with 80% infill. Thanks for sharing it!

Thank you, happy to help. :o)

Is there any chance you could do a right sided holder?

you can just mirror it in Slic3r (Object -> Mirror -> Along X axes).

However it looks like the Y frame is not actually completely centered (when I look from the front side it looks like the middle spacer is a bit to the left compare to screw which is holding the Y belt tentioner). Maybe you will have to cut it a bit if it colides with ziptie. Let me know how it worked.

Anyway, I think the left side is usually better becouse the control knob is on the right and the left side is closer to the electronics.

I did it the easy way by drilling a hole into it :)
But thank you anyway!

Thats nasty! :oD

I would say the easy way is to mirror it before print but ok. :o) Also the screw head must be peeking out on the bottom in your case becouse the countersink is on the other side.

Anyway did it fit on the right side without cutting? Is it colliding with the ziptie? Could you maybe post a picture?

I flipped this for the right side and it hits the ziptie. Everything else seems fine about it.

Yes. I have also tried to flip it - but it hits the printer on this side.

The MK3 longer and looser parts do not properly fit. The shorter end (that goes over the bed frame) is too long. Compare it to your original and you can see both ends were made longer, when only one should have. It is too long now to properly fit over the "arm" of the frame and line up with the screw/spacer hold without hitting the zip tie/cables underneath.

Otherwise this is a great setup, love the screwed together camera case and pivot/swivel.


you are right, the size of the “shorter end” was incorrect for looser and longer versions. Actually, all versions were originally longer, because it fits the Y frame. But because sometimes it was hitting the ziptie I made it 5mm shorter.

All versions are fixed now! :o)


I printed pre sliced abs gcode (Normal Version). It have slided hard and holder bottom have cracked (Not fully), still it seens well mounted and not move, will be any problem with that overtime?

if you printed this from ABS it should hold well. You can always print the looser version and exchange it.

Yes i print with ABS, but it crack where bottom hole starts (The hole where frame fits) Maybe due my bad first try to put it or maybe bad abs fillament, don't know. I will try the looser version or maybe reprint this one. Thank you


On MK2S i used a camera holder that supports a Fish Eye Lens (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/AUKEY-Fish-eye-Lens-3in-1-Clip-on-Cell-Phone-Camera-180-Degree-Fisheye-Lens-Wide/32636465896.html), that len allow me to cath whole XYZ Area.
This holder is enough to pick the whole area without a len?

Not the entire area, but most of it, which is good enough for most use (watch attached image). However, you can still use the lense - just print the longer version of the holder so it does not collide with fan when homing.

Good to know :)
Can you tell me the remaining length from Camera to the Fan of the normal version?

Thanks for the mount design. I'm planning on remixing it to use Microsoft Lifecam Cinema.
Random question, actually 2.
1: How do you connect your Raspberry Pi to EINSY. USB or through direct connection to Raspi Zero header?

  1. What is that white ring on the extruder assembly?


feel free to remix it anyway you like. I would suggest using the frame holder as it is and make your own knob and camera holder.

To your questions:
1) I am using short USB cable to connect RassPi because I am using full size Raspberry Pi 3 (I prefer the ethernet connection and more computing power). I was powering It from Einsy board at first, but I switched to external power supply, so it is always on (even when the printer is off).
2) It is a led ring so I can see what I am printing. :o) This one I hard wire to turn on with printer using step down converter (since it is 12V LEDs). 80mm ring fits perfect. I also have some RGB notification LEDs connected to RassPi over mosfet switch. It is controlled by GCODE via LEDStripControl plugin.
I was inspired by this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb3hrjEiE3s) by Thomas Sanladerer.

I've printed this in ABS and the 'tight' version fit perfectly over the arm. I do have a clearance issue with a stick-on wide-angle lens, it just clears the radial fan when homing, so an extra 5mm length on the arm would make it less scary to watch.

I have added 10mm longer version. Since it holds very firmly on the frame, 10mm is no issue.

P.S.: My beta version was shorter so I understand what you mean by "scary to watch homing" very well. ^^

Thanks! The longer version removes the scare factor :)

Thanks for the mount, it's good and works well overall (with the caveat below).
I have had issues with the piece that slides onto the bed holder. The hole in the Z dimension seems too small. I printed it in PLA and ABS using multiple layer heights and they all came out too small by about 0.5mm (possibly the sag from the bridging?) and hey all cracked when I tried to push them in.
I haven't tried to modify the part to increase the hole in the Z direction but may give it a go in the future.

Hello, the Z height is 0.4 (2 layers) more than the height of the bed frame, so it should be enough. Your bridges are probably not printed very well. Using ABS try presliced GCODE which I have included. Do not use PLA since it is close to the heatbed and could bend over time.

I have added looser version of the holder with increased hole size. Let me know how this one works. It should slide on the frame using a little force but not too hard.

Thanks for the feedback. I had tried the gcode with the same result (and also tried the PLA just to check if this was an ABS-only issue).

The loose version slides in much better, thanks. However, it gets very close to hitting the size tie that holds the y-axis left hard rod.