Loading

Better 3D Printable Bearing

by BoomZilla1, published

Better 3D Printable Bearing by BoomZilla1 Jan 5, 2018
6 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Tags

Design Tools

Fusion 360

License

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

34469Views 5767Downloads Found in DIY

Summary

I tried the print in place bearing from bribro12 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2349065), but on smaller bearings like skateboard size, I found the rollers twisted out of place and jammed up. Instead I moved the fat parts to the outside and that keeps them in line.This also seems to make them easier to free up after printing.

I uploaded 3 popular sizes. The larger two print pretty cleanly from me. The small one needs a little care to work in after printing. Don't expect these to be a replacement for real bearings, but they are good enough for mission critical components such as a gimbal stabilized beer holder (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2727133)

Update 1/19/18: So I uploaded this because I thought a few people would have a passing curiosity. It got more hits in the first few hours than all of my useful things put together. I tweaked a few dimensions, put a chamfer on the outside so you don't usually need a raft to print and provided more clearance in the center of the rollers so they ride on the outside. I added these as mk2 designs. Their motion is a little sloppier, but they are easier to print and get working. Also see a filament spool holder using these I added here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763126

Update 1/26/18: This silly thing continues to be rather popular. Since people are starting to make remixes with the 608zz bearing, while others are having trouble printing it (either falling apart or coming out frozen up), I added a series of 608s. Loose (0.35mm clearance), Standard (0.30mm), Tight (0.25) and Extra Tight (0.20mm). Also a Standard with more rollers that helps with thrust loads. I can print all of these in PLA; the loose one come off the print bed working but can fall apart, the extra tight one needs a tool to be broken free but then works the best. Printing in ABS or PETG won't work with the loose one, it will fall right apart. If you want to tinker more, the Fusion 360 source as well as a dozen CAD formats are available here: http://a360.co/2ndT5VB. In Fusion 360, open the sketch and fill in the inner/outer diameter and height for the bearing you need; set a starting race thickness of about 1.5mm; add as many rollers as will fit (with the parameter page or by editing the pattern tool on the main page); finally fine tune the clearance between rollers by adjusting the race thickness.

Update 3/31/2018: Found out that my design is almost identical to one from Qube3Bot already posted. Added a re-mix link back.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Prusa

Printer:

Rafts:

Yes

Supports:

No

Resolution:

I used 0.2 with a 0.3mm nozzle

Infill:

100%


Notes:

On these smaller units, I needed to use a raft to prevent "Elephant Foot" on the first layer from jamming things up.

How I Designed This

Design was done with Fusion 360 in a semi-parameterized way.

More from DIY

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for clients all over the world. We offer free and instant access to comparati...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

The principle is genius! I love it how you inverted the old known principle of a bearing into a design optimized for 3D printing. Great creative work!

Comments deleted.

Can you make a vid on how to make it, it looks sick and I want one that will work and spin longer than the one I had

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2816822

Can you give me a few suggestions if you look at it thanks

Tinkercad Working Fidget Spinner

I have printed 608zz_mk2_Standard but it came out very loose. It felt like one "sphere" was missing. After some spins it came apart.
I am printing with Anycubic i3 mega ultrabase at 0.15 layer height. Am I under-extruding ?

I printed the tight version and its still quite loose,

I did add a "hardcore" version with 0.05mm spacing between the rollers. If that doesn't work for you I would take a look at your slicer settings. The newer slicer programs will often slightly change the shape of things to try compensate for the oozing around the extruder. Yours may be over-doing it a bit.

Extra tight version works with my Monoprice Delta Mini but the inner pieces can still slip out some what easily.

OK, I put a "hard core" version up with 0.1mm spacing between the bearings and the races and 0.05mm spacing between the bearings. If you can slip that apart without breaking a piece it must be your slicer pre-compensating for the close spacing between parts and resizing them for you.

Nice I'll give it a try when I get home. What slicer are you using? I've got Cura.

Just Cura with close to default settings. It has a few advanced settings like "Horizontal Expansion" that will resize things if you set them.

Hmm. My Horizontal Expansion is 0. The hardcore is tighter. Thank you for the file.

Comments deleted.

Dear BoomZilla1
Thank you for your deign and source file,
do you know if anybody has tried / you ve tried to print it in nylon?
I would be happy to know how strong it can support efforts?

thanks a lot,

<best

I have only tried PLA and PETG. The failures I have seen come from splitting between layers so I expect nylon would work well there.

Tight version (0.25 clearance) came out perfect out of my Monoprice Maker Select Plus. Just make sure you have an accurately leveled bed. Nice design.

Very nice design Nelson keep up the good work! ;-)

I just printed the "Bearing_608zz.stl" on my Prusa MK2s printer using "high detail". They came out perfect! I added these printed bearings to the spool holders that I printed for my CR-10 and they work perfect! I am very happy! Here is the link for the spool holders and mount:

I will upload pictures in the "I Made One" section.

CR-10 TUSH Bracket
TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder

UPDATE: The bearings did not work as part of my spool holder. Unfortunately, when the spool was running low (about 15% left), the weight of the spool was not enough for the bearings. As a result, the bearings did not roll and my spool fell to the ground. Luckily, the spool landed on its side and kept feeding my printer.

I removed the printed bearings and replaced them with metal 608 bearings. I really like the Yellow Jackets a lot: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3U30MO

Did you added some lubrication oil to the plastic bearings? It really helps.

I did not add lubrication oil to the plastic bearings. That is a great idea!

I just printed the 608zz and it fell apart when I took it off the build plate. I will check my extrusion width but I think that the clearances are a little much. I printed this on my hypercube at 50mm/sec at 0.15 layer height.

Yeah, unfortunately it looks like these are rather sensitive to the setup of each printer. People were having trouble with them being locked up after printing so I increased the clearance on the mk2 version files. Both work on mine pretty well.

don't work, don't print

I printed it first try and it spins perfectly

Sorry you are having trouble. Be sure to print it laying down flat using a raft. If you are still getting parts sticking try reducing your extruder temperature and/or reducing the filament feed rate. The smallest one in particular needed some of the rollers to be separated with a small screw driver or hobby knife.

Do you have 608 bearing?

On the road. Can add one next week. Scratch that, 608 is there see the file names.

Do these print standing up or laying down?

They need to lay flat and usually will need to use a "raft" to keep the first layer from squishing out and locking things up.

this bearing should not work correctly. The inner ring has two different outer diameters and that makes that these diameters do have different speeds. (mm/sec or inch/sec) The rollers do have also different outer diameters with different speeds.
For that reason, per definition there will be high friction between the barrel rollers and inner/outer ring.
A ball bearing could be discussed in the same way but there we assume that there is only point contact and friction will be a lot less.
Printing ball bearings is not that difficult even when the balls are floating a little above the print bed. I can explain why but SIMPLIFY3D explains it perfectly in one of there YouTube lessons.
But really thanks for sharing, it did trigger something else in my mind. :-)

Evandene,
You are 100% right. If both the wide and the narrow part of the roller contacts the races it will bind up. The taper angle on the races is slightly less than the roller so it should only hit on the fat ends. This might need some more tweaking to assure it happens on the printed result. I find that the print oozes out more on inside curves than outside curves.

I'll revisit this when I have time as there seems to have been a lot of interest in this thing. It was a side track from another project where the real bearings were late arriving in the mail. I was just surprised I was able to actually print a functional 624zz bearing.

Try a Barrel Bearing design. The barrel radius needs to be 5 mm less as the radius from inner and outer ring. Than again you have point contact.

Hi evandene,
good input. Any thought about my design?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2516471

3D Printed Bearing (without balls)

I love it, I love it. Super minimized and the oil created a kind of hydro bearing.
Also the application is great

Top