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xxricsxx

CR-10 Standalone Kit

by xxricsxx Jan 13, 2018
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Fyi the psu mount barely fits the meanwell. And I had to use washers to connect to the frame as a m3x12 was too short and mx16 was too long. I will remix when I have time

Very Bad. You need much more screws in other sizes. With the 21 M5x 10mm you can't do very much. Very Bad instruction.

For anyone planning to make the mod, please be aware that it requires re-wiring (stock cables will not fit)! So, you need to have all the necessary tools.
It also will not work with the stock display.

Hello, is there a remixed Version for the Cr-10 S4 messurements?
this would be awesome

Ich würde gerne dein Display Mount für ein ähnliches All in One Projekt Remixen.
Könntest du die Step Dateien vom CR10 Display posten? Das wär hammer

D: Auch ich hätte Interesse an einem Halter für MKS Gen L oder einen Tipp wo es etwas passendes gibt...

EN: Also I would be interested in a holder for MKS Gen L or a tip where there is something suitable ...

There is one in the remixes.

Does this work with the stock power supply cables? Or do you need longer ones?

Ich plane aktuell den Umbau vom Cr-10s mit Melzi und Original Display.

Ist es nötig Kabel zu verlängern außer beim Display?

Great idea! Though it is worth mentioning that this probably is not for people that plan to enclose the entire CR-10 eventually since it would cause the heated bed to also heat the electronics as well (when all enclosed together)... and while the fans would help, they would just be circulating warm air... unless they were venting outside the enclosure, which then defeats the purpose of an enclosure.

I mean it is still a great idea and useful for many! Just thought you might want to consider an alternate version with a separation/divider between the box contents and the bed so that both could be enclosed with the box area being able to vent via outside air without affecting the bed enclosure.

In any case, it is a very cool and useful mod! Congratulations!

The mks gen 1.4 mount is slightly too big and does not fit. Just wanted to give you a heads ups.

hallo,
Ich suche ein längeres Kabel für meinen Bildschirm "EXT1 EXT2". Können Sie einen Link teilen, um es zu kaufen?

Hello,

Would it be possible to have the original CAD files (FreeCAD)? Thanks in advance

Comments deleted.

Hey, great mod. Will this work for the CR-10 S5, or will I have to modify it to fit?

Thanks!

No, it doesn't but I modeled a fix I'm testing it now.

Hey :) Wäre es möglich den MOSFET Halter so anzupassen dass er auch für einen CR 10S MOSFET passt? Wenn du möchtest kann ich dir morgen die Maße nennen, falls du sie nicht kennt.

Gruß
Enrico

Hey dtex, ich hab die Teile schon umgewandelt, kannst du mir die Maße sagen weil dann passe ich sie uns an!

What would be needed to adapt this to the CR-10 S5? On the regular CR-10 the distance from the side to the y-axis beam is 142mm. On the CR-10 S5 the distance from frame to beams (plural) is 110mm and the space between the y-axis beams is 220mm. Thanks!

Did you ever hear back on this mod?

Hallo, welche Teile muss ich für den CR 10s als Stockversion ausdrucken? Ich steig bei den ganzen Mainboards nicht mehr durch :D Wäre super, wenn mir jemand eine Liste nennen könnte.

Viele Grüße

Ich bin gerade dabei alles anzupassen, und schreib dir dann eine Liste falls du die info noch benötigst

Ja, dass wäre klasse! Danke :)

Is there holder available for mks gen l?

Ist auch ein Displayhalter für MKS TFT vorhanden?

Hello !
What is the "mosfet_halter_luefter" designed for ?
Looks like it can hold a motor but I really don't see how ^^
Thanks !

It's for the mosfet. The mosfet is used for the heated bed and it connects to the PSU and the board.

Mittlerweile weiß ich nicht mehr, wo ich noch Schreiben soll. Weder auf Youtube noch per Mail gibt es Informationen zu dem Umbau.
Ich würde das auch gerne machen, möchte auch nur wissen, ob das so Schlau ist, das Mainboard Kopfüber ohne Kühlung unter das Bett zu packen.
Wenn es hier eine Lüfterlösung gibt, würde ich gern mehr darüber wissen, da bei den Druckdateien ja Lüfterhalter beschrieben sind, die man aber nirgendwo erkennen kann.

Das sind auch meine Bedenken werde daher einen Lüfterhalter Zeichnen und dann eventuell Posten

Danke für ein wundervolles Design! Wäre es möglich, die Artikel in Englisch zu übersetzen, die Sie in Ihren Links für Amazon und die anderen Websites aufgelistet haben? Vielen Dank!

Hello Sir !
I'm sorry, maybe you give the information but i don't understand deutch... I just would like if your standalone mod accept the stock display of the stock CR-10, not the CR-10S. Because i'm full stock, just a MKS GEN 1.4... Could be fine if you make a Raspberry Pi3b support...So, very good job and thank you !

Wie wäre es mit einem schwenkbaren Display?

Hi,
bin auch gerade dabei alles dafür zu drucken, ausser den Schrauben brauche ich nix mehr ? brauche ich vielleicht noch eine Verlängerung von den Kabeln oder zum Display ?

LG und Frohe Ostern

Hallo,

funktioniert der Melzi Boardhalter auch beim CR-10S Board (allererste Version)

Klasse Idee. Versuche mich derzeit am Umbau. Allerdings habe ich ein deutlich größere Mosfet Platine im Drucker gehabt. Hast du dafür enventuell einen Halter?

Cooler Umbau, mein 10S ist done. Lade dann noch die Pics hoch.
Kannst du das noch für den 10S 5 (also denn 500x500x500) erweitern?

Does anyone have any of this in english? Ive got like 80% of it down but theres so many duplicate files i dont know what goes to what. Im using a CR-10S.

Would either of the board holders work with an Arduino MEGA? Thanks

using a CR-10S here
and my X axis and Extruders cable are way to short. Also the CR-10S Board doesnt realy fit but thats jsut a minor issue.

i probably going to do a remix during the next days. mainly to switch the position of the power supply with the board mount and also because i need a Pi3 mount ^^

other then that, awesome mod, kudos to you :)

Hi achmed20 :)
I follow you for that !

Any chance for MKS Gen L mounting plate ?

Du hast nicht zufällig noch eine Halterung für nen oktokoppler rumfliegen?

Super Sache bin selbst auch grad am Umbau - danke dafür.

Klasse Arbeit. danke dafür hab mir Grad schon mal ein mks Base bestellt wollte eh noch Upgraden ^^

Hast du bitte ein Bild, wie der große Lüfter montiert ist.

This is awesome, great work! Any chance for a Raspberry Pi mount similar to how the control board mounts are designed?

Sure.
Maybe tomorrow :)

Hi! Did you ever manage to design a Raspberry Pi attachment?

Gibt es da eventuell ein Update zu der Pi Halterung?

Awesome, you're the best! Can't wait :D

... except that the elimination of the control box also removes any protection against fire from a wiring short... which happens. The box is not decorative, it plays a very important role. It is there to keep flames away from combustible material. Making these changes in NA at least would probably void your home insurance.

Is there any proof to this or are you talking out of your ass? The reason I ask is because other printers, ie the mk3 and mk2 have similar designs and are sold in north america. If there was a fire in the control box, having a giant roll of flammable filament above it probably isn't the best idea. The main cause of fires I have seen is when a thermistor goes and the hot end becomes molten lava and sets everything on fire. So I am not sure how this increases the risk of fire.

Hi Mike. No, I'm just making it up as you suggest. We all know that wiring of any type is typically meant to be exposed and does not produce heat of any kind during a dead short. Nor does the Underwriters Laboratory examine enclosures for fire hazard or electrical shock with exposed wiring, so certification should not be an issue for you if you so choose to challenge them on all of that useless "testing" they do. They just stick that logo on anything these days. Call your insurance company and show them what you are planning on doing, and I'm sure if something does go wrong as you suggest, they will be more than happy to send me a nasty letter for suggesting that the fire enclosure around the wiring is somehow necessary for public safety and unsafe to remove. Thank you for calling me out on this. Apologies.

Considering it's not certified in the first place kind of a moot point. If the box was actually fire proof then maybe but I doubt it is based on its construction and venting. If you pay for insurance they cannot deny your claim even if you are somehow at fault. That's the whole point of insurance. Now if you don't have coverage that's a whole other story.

Once again I bow to your superior knowledge of how fire works and I agree, the addition of a steel fire and shock enclosure around the wiring seems to serve no useful purpose other than to look pretty, as no Chinese product ever experiences wiring fires. Certainly I would point out that as I cannot actually prove the existence of wiring fires as you request, as I said, if you wish to modify your printer and submit it to UL for a certification (I'm sure you just misread what I wrote, not that you are somehow a poor reader) and or your insurance company for their opinion, they will most certainly point out that those little metal enclosures that hold the power outlets and light switches in your home (not to mention the main panel box) are completely unnecessary. And you are correct, I've never heard of an insurance company denying a claim because someone made an unsafe change to an electrical product and then left it unattended for days at a time when it suddenly set the house on fire, so you should be OK to get rid of all that nasty "electrical code" stuff in all of your appliances. Make sure you notify your insurance company however, so that they can give you a substantial rate reduction.

Shock enclosure? You realize the control box isnt even properly grounded, right? Also for the "metal enclosures" for power outlets and light switches can also be blue plastic in the USA, so I see no issue with everything encased in plastic (as the Prusa and Ender 3 are)

The exposed power terminals in this design are a shock hazard. That's obvious, not sure how you missed that.
And yes, the control box IS properly grounded. Good to see your expert knowledge coming into play here.

I didnt say the exposed wires WEREN'T a shock hazard, did I? Go ahead and argue a point I didnt make.
I was pointing out that the electrical components dont need to be in metallic enclosures, obviously exposed terminals and wires are a shock hazard. You conveniently ignored my point because you realize you're wrong about your metal enclosures and live mains.

Have you opened up your control box? Just because it has a ground wire coming into it doesnt mean THE CASE itself is grounded. At no point is the case connected to ground, unless you're assuming the case of the psu which is bolted thru the outer case, is grounded, and those 2 bolts therefore ground the outer case.

Hey! See what I did there? Debated without insulting. Imagine that.

Note to anyone reading - this is where the newbie troll hijacks the thread, stating that because I'm talking about the CR-10 metal enclosure, that I must be arguing that all enclosures around the world must be metal. He knows this is wrong and keeps right on going! lol
Note his insistence that the CR-10 isn't grounded, and thinks he is having a "debate" by posting incorrect information, even after repeated attempts to bring things back on topic.
Enjoy! He's a hoot, and is one of the best displays of 'new user expert' syndrome online. Certainly the best example on Thingiverse!

Again, you are misinformed. Secondly, if you are not talking about this design, then you are off topic, which wastes people's time.
If you had a point to make about this design, you failed to make it. As for attitude, when you start your posts out with "You realize... right?" and you are wrong.... well that's a bad way to start out. If you are unsure of something, ask questions rather than insinuate you "know" better than those of us whose specialty is unique electrical configurations and components for special applications. Cool? And no, I've no interest in "debate" about facts. When you start building your own components from scratch, I'd be happy to hear about your successes.

My original comment said "I see no issue with everything encased in plastic" meaning if this design (see, it is pertaining to this specific design) had no mains level electrical components which could be accidentally touched because they are enclosed in plastic, then there should be no issue. This is how Prusa and Ender do it, as well as plastic electrical and lightswitch gang boxes in the USA.

You've insisted I am wrong without providing any facts. I have opened the control box. The ground lead from the plug at no point connected to the outer control box, thus the outer control box is not grounded. Explain precisely how it is grounded if this is the case.

Sure. www.google.com.
That should get you the electrical basics. You might want to take a course if you really want to know how electricity works.
You clearly haven't looked at this design. It doesn't have a full plastic enclosure. Not sure if you have a learning disability or not, so lets leave it there.
Hope you had fun.
Cheers.

And 3 times now you still haven't addressed your claim that wiring must be inside a metal box. No, the control box outer shell is NOT grounded, so having a metal shell there is providing you nothing and is actually MORE risk of shock than a plastic one would be, though less of a fire risk. Insulting me doesnt make you more correct.

1) The national electric code allows for the use of plastic gang boxes for both power outlets and light switches. You, the expert we are to all bow to, claim they must be metal.
2) If the enclosure is not connected to ground either directly or via ground transfer from another grounded component inside, then it is not grounded. Open you CR-10 control box and you will realize you're wrong here too.

Continue going around insulting people and claiming you have superior knowledge. Then completely ignore when you're proven wrong. Good work.

That's the thing about trolls, is you like to go back and swap topics so you are not as wrong... or so you think.
1) You are the one talking about a "metal box" - that's you. It came up because the CR-10 box is made of metal, but you should know that if you actually have one like you claim. I personally think you have never seen one before, you certainly are talking like you've never seen one except on line. Regardless, removing the enclosure is dangerous, violates all sorts of electrical codes and will cause a person to lose insurance in case of fire. That's the point of this - but you trolls want to argue about electricity, like you have some secret, special knowledge that is going to change the world and we are all too stupid to understand.... Trolls. Do you know what an "enclosure" is?
2) Yes, you can use a plastic enclosure - but you need an enclosure. Not sure why you can't understand that. ENCLOSURE. See that word?
3) The CR-10 is grounded. Check it with an ohmmeter. I don't care what you "think" you "know". Again - it IS grounded. You can't argue fact. If yours isn't then you should stop being obtuse and return it, because it's dangerous. That's your free advice for today.
4) If you want to learn basic electrical principles, take a course. It's not OUR responsibility to teach YOU. I don't care if you think Tesla himself is an idiot. Electricity is a science, and it exists without your permission.
Go take a course, or get a job like the rest of us. Stop trying to leach free information. I am embarrassed for you.
And yes, from this point forward, I am going to "completely ignore" you. Cool?

Feel free to ignore me. I could care less.
1) You stated electrical connections must be inside a metal/steel box for fire and shock prevention and to keep flames away from combustible material. You were wrong, it can be plastic enclosure as well but you failed to admit that...until now. I'll quote you here to refresh your memory
Sarcastically you state "Once again I bow to your superior knowledge of how fire works and I agree, the addition of a steel fire and shock enclosure around the wiring seems to serve no useful purpose other than to look pretty" and then again "those little metal enclosures that hold the power outlets and light switches in your home (not to mention the main panel box) are completely unnecessary" In both cases you insinuate the only acceptable enclosure for electrical (mains) connections is metal.

2) I stated the use of an enclosure early on and said "power outlets and light switches can also be blue plastic in the USA, so I see no issue with everything encased in plastic (as the Prusa and Ender 3 are)" referring to the high voltage bits as nobody cares about 12v DC. This was my suggestion for mitigating the concern you had around exposed wiring. Thanks for finally agreeing with me and accepting a plastic enclosure is acceptable.

I understand electrical principles, have completed post-secondary, got a diploma and have a career but obviously you know everything about me, so thanks for the advice. I wish I was you.

Sarcasm isn't your strong suit is it? You are way off topic again, so I'll just wrap this up.
The CR-10 enclosure is metal. You would know that if you owned one. If you want to buy one and swap your enclosure (that black metal boxey thing you claimed isn't grounded) for plastic, go ahead, but reground all of your components . Better yet, leave it alone so you don't kill yourself with your level of ability.
I have to admit, there are not that many trolls who will go to the lengths you have to argue for something no one is talking about. I'm assuming you have massive personal issues so I'll leave it at that.
Best of luck to you, and maybe stay out of my industry, since we don't need you accidentally killing yourself or others by playing around with power. You think you know what you are doing, and you really, really don't. Youv'e proven that here, and it would be dangerous for you to go anywhere near electrical equipment. Stay away from playing around with electricity, for eveyone's sake. I don't want to hear that kids died in a fire because you burned down your apartment building when you screwed with a CR-10. Cheers!

I understand the sarcasm, your sacastic comments all alluded to the fact that it MUST be metal. You've concede that point so we've laid that to rest. Plastic enclosures are fine from the NEC. My initial post here was suggesting enclosing the high voltage components in plastic would suffice and you got all bent out of shape. This isn't "something no one is talking about"

I actually own two Cr-10s', a cr-10s4, and 2 ender 3's (along with a wanhao d9 but that's unrelated to this discussion) and they're in my home office in my house. Just like you insinuated I was uneducated and unemployed now you imply I live in some apartment. You've got some serious issues bud.

To @thadude, who you jumped all over about the NEED or REQUIREMENT for a metal enclosure: you don't. Just don't leave any exposed high voltage wires or components and make sure they're in plastic enclosures or boxes.

LOL. Only to a person who can't read. We were talking about the CR-10 box which IS made of metal, and the fact that this has to be REPEATEDLY pointed out to you means you have never saw a CR-10. Now you supposedly own every printer ever made. You win troll of the year. Lets print you up that trophy.
LOL, seriously I'm laughing out loud.
Are you done whining? It's funny, but I feel embarrassed for you putting all of that online.
:)
I'll remind you of your "The CR-10 isn't grounded" comment lives forever, and respectfully wish you a good day.
You can have the last word, of course!
Oh, and good job on your re-editing your posts. I'd delete those idiotic comments too if I were you. Well, I wouldn't have made them in the first place, but that's fine.
Best to you, newbie, and stay away from electricity.
(Everyone here says "hi" and can't wait for your next witticism.)
Cheers! ;)

I haven't removed anything from any of my comments through editing other than correcting a few typos and grammar. Another of your rediculous claims to go along with me living in some apartment and that metal boxes are the only enclosures appropriate for electrical connections or the fact that my initial post was regarding the enclosure or lack thereof yet you claim I'm "talking about something nobody is talking about"

I don't own every printer ever made and never claimed to. Notice how I said "insinuates" with regards to your sarcastic comments? That is how I interpreted them. If you want to be clear in the points you're making maybe you should just say what you mean instead of insulting people with your sarcastic comments.

I'm done with you. You win. You have the best insults.

Still chuckling! We've been reading your comments here at work. Thanks, you made everyone's morning! Especially when you repost the sarcastic bits and tell me what I meant by them. Gold. Comic gold.
Good work sir!

Being sarcastic and providing no actual facts doesn't make you appear any smarter. If there is a legitimate fire concern that we should know about I am all ears. But if it's just your sarcastic opinion then it provides little value to me. At first I was genuinely concerned, but realizing you are just full of yourself reduces my worry. If the control board or power supply catch fire I think with or without the metal box you will be in the same scenario. Thanks.

Again I apologize. Your comment "Is there any proof to this or are you talking out of your ass?" was obviously meant to express your gentlemanly nature. I'm sorry for assuming that you were simply a rude idiot. I'm genuinely sorry that I cannot provide the "facts" about wiring fires and electrical shock - you could be correct, they may be a liberal media ploy. Certainly I woudn't expect you to waste time learning this stuff on your own. It's best that you just insist I prove it to you.
I'm going to have to bow to your electrical expertise, as I'm only aware of legal requirements for electrical components, but as you say you know that if wiring was to "catch fire I think with or without the metal box you will be in the same scenario". I'd suggest informing your province of this so that they can immediately remove electrical inspectors from the government teat. By all means, feel free to implement anything from the internet and let us know how much better your stock printer is without all of that 'regulatory' stuff.
Best wishes to you! Feel free to take the last word. I await the wisdom and electronics expertise that your years at Home Depot have brought to you. Good day to you sir.

lol. It was nice meeting you sad internet person.

I SAID GOOD DAY to you sir!!!

What actual safety risk would this create and would there be a way to mitigate it, also, what would the grond be connected to without the metal case? The frame?

Yes, leave the components in the existing enclosure and buy a $20 wire extension kit. This way you don't risk burning your house down or having your kids electrocuted if they touch the frame.

Hallo Ric!
Ich finde Deine Idee Klasse alles unter den Drucker zu stopfen! Mich nervt der riesen Kasten genauso!
Ich möchte allerdings die Steckdose rechts(!) hinten und das Mainboard links hinten...
Bin am überlegen, was ich alles spiegeln muss(!)...
Nur wenn ich spiegel wird Dein Schriftzug auch gespiegelt (wie grad an der Steckdose. was hier nicht schlimm ist, weil es eh keiner sieht).
Noch ein Problem (oder nicht?): ich habe den TEVO Tornado. Aber der ist ja baugleich mit dem CR-10 oder?

Reicht PLA mit moderatem infill aus oder sollte ich das ganze besser in PETG drucken?

Hallo, Ric. Kannst du eine Bildschirmhalterung für das Mks TFT 3.2 Touchscreen Display machen?

Moin zusammen, Moin Ric,

hat irgendwer den halter schon mal mit dem Board eines 10S versucht? bei mir passt er nicht. Ein Loch müsste etwas versetzt werden. Kann das jemand bestätigen?

Boardhalter_Melzi_CR-10.stl

Ja, musste mein altes CR-10 Board gegen eins vom 10s tauschen(Creality V2.0) da passen nicht alle Schrauben. Ich denke eine Schraube weniger ist kein Problem, sitzt Bomben fest!

any chance to have melzi + raspberry pi mount?

What material are you using? Infill?

Your amazon links dont work

This is fantastic! Is there any chance I could ask for collaboration with you? Specifically, I would love this with the squash ball feet mod, so as to remove any vibration to the surface it is sitting on. Would you be open to sharing the source files or perhaps modify it yourself? I would be open to assisting!

For reference: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2751152

Cheers!

alright, im gonna give it a third try! :D
Im running a cr-10s, what parts do i need to print? Is it the Melzi ones? and the back display piece xflo22x posted under me? Thanks!

Moin Ric!

Ich hab nen CR10S und da passte leider das Display_Back nicht.
Kannst die folgende Datei also mit aufnehmen, hab deine Datei angepasst.
Anschlüsse (EXT1/EXT2), Schraubenlöcher und "Soundmodul" Einlass mussten ein wenig verschoben / angepasst werden.

Comments deleted.

Hallo, Ric.
Können Sie einen Schalterhalter hinzufügen, der nicht am Fuß befestigt ist? Ich möchte meine eigenen Füße benutzen.

Comments deleted.

Hey xxricsxx,

wie wäre es mit einer separaten Halterung ohne Fuß für Power Schalter und Buchse?

Eventuell mag man andere Füße nutzen oder hat ggf schon welche die hoch genug sind.

Gruß

Kriegen wir hin

Klasse, dann kann mein Umbau bald los gehen. Mir fehlen nur noch die Teile für den Schalter.
Rest ist schon gedruckt ^^.

Meinst du, du bekommst die Teile heute fertig. Würde gerne heute mit dem Umbau starten.

Teil ist Online

Lade ich gleich hoch

Klasse, vielen Dank ^^

Guten Morgen,
dürfte ich wissen wo du die selbst zentrierende Kupplung der Z Achse gefunden hast?
Ist die gekauft oder gedruckt?

Vielen Dank.

Wie löst Ihr die Kühlung vom Mainboard?

Hi,

hab alle Teile gedruckt, aber noch nicht mit dem Umbau angefangen. Passen denn alle Kabel vom Netzteil von der Länge her oder muss da was verlängert werden (ich verwende das original CR-10 Board)?

Bei mir mussten einige Kabel verlängert werden. Die vom Netzteil zur Buchse/Schalter waren zu kurz, genauso das Kabel zur Ansteuerung des MosFET und auch das Kabel zur Versorgung des Boards (allerdings benutze ich ein MKS Gen 1.4). Zum Original-Board kann ich daher nix sagen. Auch die Lüfter müssen neu gebastelt werden, bzw. ich glaube, in dem Design hier sind ja abgesehen vom MosFET-Lüfter gar keine vorgesehen.

Ok, danke für die Antwort. Mal sehen wann ich mich an den Umbau rantraue...

Hi,
bei den Displays gibt es offensichtlich Revisionen (oder Launen). In meinem Fall ist EXP3 beschaltet - ergo passt die Aussparung nicht. Ich ändere das selber und würde die Datei dann zur Verfügung stellen.

Anbei das angepasste Melzi-Backcover für den EXP3-Anschluss. Den Ausschnitt für den Speaker musste ich ebenfalls leicht verschieben. Die Halterung für das MKS Gen 1.4 werde ich vorr. auch ändern, da das USB-Kabel einfach nicht passen will.

Comments deleted.

Hab Heute mein MKS GEN V1.4 bekommen, passt aber nicht richtig in den Halter.
Lochabstand der vier Befestigungslöcher ist zu klein und für was sind diese vier Befestigungen?

Meins passte auch, allerdings nicht 100%ig. Aber mit ein bisschen reinruckeln und drücken gings :-)

Edit: Übrigens lässt sich bei meinem Board auch der USB-Stecker nicht einstecken, weil genau dort eine Befestigungslasche zum Rahmen ist. Die werde ich wohl einfach abknipsen, dann ist der Halter immer noch mit zwei Schrauben fest..

Bei mir passt es perfekt. Die 4 Nasen kannst Du nutzen, um mit Kabelbinder die Kabel zu befestigen.

Will this work with the factory board and display?

Yes, I use the original display with an MKS Gen. You should print the "Boardhalter_Melzi..." to use the stock board.

Oh, and check your display connector before you print. On my version EXP3 is used while the hole in the cover is made for EXP1 (see image in my post above).

Hi, kannst du noch den Fuß mit Schalter anpassen? Die neueren CR-10 haben eine getrennte Buchse und Schalter.
Kann ich dir irgendwie dabei helfen? SolidWorks wäre vorhanden.

ich lade dir die Datei als solid hoch. Kannst du dann gerne anpassen und ich füge sie hier mit ein

Hier die geänderte Datei mit einer getrennten Buchse Schalter Kombi. So wie es an meinem aktuellen CR-10 ist.
Hoffe das klappt mit der STEP Datei, bin damit noch nicht so bewandert (kenne nur SoWo Dateien)

Kannst du mir noch die Dateien für: Netzteilhalter, Abdeckplatte und Mosfet mit Lüfter geben?
Möchte diese gerne auf meinen Tevo Tornado anpassen. Der hat ein kleineres Netzteil und ein SSR für sein 230V Heizbett.

Edit: Hab den Fuß gedruckt und einen Auschnitt nochmal etwas angepasst, nun passt er.

Passt soweit. Schicke mir mal eine Nachricht mit deiner Mailadresse, dann schicke ich dir die Daten zu

Hallo Ric, dein Mod gefällt mir und ich würde gerne den ach für meinen Tevo verwenden. Könntest du die Datei(en) mit aufnehmen?

Hab den Fuß nun gedruckt und musste den Ausschnitt nochmal etwas anpassen. Muss erst noch mit den Toleranzen etwas Erfahrung smmeln.

Was muss da noch angepasst werden? Etwas vergrößert? Habe auch die getrennten Schalter/Buchse und würde mir das Modell oben dann noch drucken.

Ja ich hab die Größe des Ausschnittes etwas vergößert, sonst muss man etwas feilen.

Ich habe noch festgestellt, dass die Schraubendurchlässe im dicken Teil des Fußes offensichtlich dicker sind, als im Originalfuß. Die 10mm Schrauben passen da nicht mehr durch bzw. gucken unten nicht raus. Es ging dann mit 12 oder 15mm Schrauben (weiß ich gerade nicht mehr ganz genau).

Gibt es schon Neuigkeiten über den RAMPS Halter ?

Ist hochgeladen

Sauber! Wird morgen direkt gedruckt. Ne Lösung jetzt noch nen Lüfter an den RAMPS Halter zu bauen hast du nicht oder ? Fand die Idee bei deinem MKS Halter Mega Genial

Für diejenigen, die das Originaldisplay mit dem MKS verwenden wollen: Connector um 180° drehen. ;)

Beschreibe das bitte mal konkret - ich kann mir nichts drunter vorstellen. Was hilft es die Öffnungen um 180° zu drehen? - So wie ich das sehe - nix

Was soll ich da Konkretisieren? Führungsnase abschneiden und Stecker um 180° gedreht einstecken. Pinout ist umgekehrt. Dann funktioniert auch das Stock-Display am MKS Gen.

Danke - das war konkret genug.

Klasse Arbeit, Top !
Was für eine Kaltgerätebuchse hast du denn genommen?
Mit was hast du gezeichnet?

Hey Ric... wie wäre es mit einem Halter für MKS Gen 1.4?

Wird gleich hochgeladen :)

Wäre klasse. Kommt dann gleich aufs Druckbett

Hi bin gerade am Umbau und hab mir die Halterung für das MKS Gen 1.4 runtergeladen. Das ist aber ein paar millimeter zu gross und ich bekomme es nicht reingeschraubt. Liegt das nur an mir?