JGAurora A5 Infrared Autobed Level modification

by CdRsKuLL, published

JGAurora A5 Infrared Autobed Level modification by CdRsKuLL Jan 8, 2018

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JG Aurora Infrared sensor upgrade

Version 1.3 12th Feb 2018

15th Feb 2018 - Updated to V2 sensor holder. Now includes LED mount and slotted holes
12th Feb 2018 - Updated firmware (uploaded the wrong version)
22nd Jan 2018 - Updated firmware to the latest release, updated to 25 point bed level
10th Jan 2018 - Updated firmware to the latest release



The connections are written on the boards.. so it's easy to check.


Autobed level addition to the JG Aurora A5 3D printer.

Items you will require
Infrared sensor - https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/
3 wire servo extension lead (2 x 1m in length)

Files included
Mount STL
Front cover

To do this modification you will need to update the main board's firmware. You will need to update using the Arduino IDE software.
There are plenty of youtube videos showing you how to do this, just search for update marlin via arduino ide.

You will need to open your machine up and feed the 3 wire connector around the machine. The sensor uses the Z minimum endstop connector, so just unplug the current one.

The current z endstop needs to be removed. Just unscrew it from the side frame and hide it below. You can always go back then if needed.

I've already configured the firmware to use this sensor, so you will only need to flash it. I have enabled the eeprom on the board, so you can save
bed levels.. but I would level at the start of every print just to be safe.

To level, you will need to add some gcode lines to your start gcode script. There is normally a tab / section in your software.. the lines you need to add are,

Add these AFTER the G28 (Home) command.

M851 Z-1.0 ; Z Offset
M500 ; Save to Eeprom
G28 ; Home
G29 ; Level bed

The Z offset can be set above. Z-1.0 = 1mm.. so if you want to lower the head then you would do..
M851 Z-1.2 ; Z Offset
This would then be 0.2mm closer than before.

You don't need to change the TFT firmware, you won't get any benefit from it as it doesn't support Z offset setting

The cover, just slides down onto the mount :-) it didn't look very nice without it.

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JGAurora A5









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you were right. PLA is fine.

OK, done everything:
Mounted sensor
Firmware ok
Offset ok
ok script (calibration with each print
why print wrong? (out of level)
you can see if the Z intervenes during printing, but does not level correctly ...
do you need to change something with the TMC2100? (in addition to the direction of the axes)

thanks :)

sorry, but what material was used to print the sensor holder?
The PLA seems fragile to be attached to those screws ...

I used PLA, it’s very strong. When you say fragile when you try and bend it does it break up into strings?

how is the video guide coming?

It’s not yet... I need to tidy my room :) will make a start this weekend I hope.

I finally got my JGAurora A5 wired. The Infrared seems to be working because the LED will light when I put my finger close to the sensor. I uploaded the firmware in the "Marlin" folder of the files I downloaded from this site. There was a hex file in the main directory. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to do something with that. The instructions aren't too clear.

The Z-axis doesn't work properly anymore. It will go up but not down when I try to home. I can manually move it up but not down below what it thinks is zero for the Z based on where it was when I turned the printer on. What am I not doing? Please be specific.

I've reflashed the Marlin firmware I had installed previously and plugged in the old z limit switch and am anxiously awaiting your help so I can get my sensor working.

Hi, I've updated the firmware, please give it another go. Upload via Arduino.

Let me know how you get on.


Just to be clear... I will load the Marlin.ino file inside the Marlin folder correct? The other files in the root directory are not a concern for me correct?

Also, this new firmware will still work with the LCD on the A5 printer correct? So when I tell it to "home" it will go through it's regular homing procedure for x,y, and z where it will use the sensor for its regular z home correct?

Lastly, I'm using PETG now. They say I should have a little larger distance than PLA. I will adjust that from the 1.0mm setting you have in your startup G-code correct?

Hi, yes load the marlin.ino, no need to bother with the others. The firmware works 100% with the LCD, no change at all. The only thing you will notice is when it homes the Z axis it will move to the middle of the bed, not the side. This is called safe_homing.

The Z offset will most likely be different on yours.. so..

I would connect it up to your PC so you have a connection via the usb. then do the following

M503 (this displays current eeprom settings)
M851 Z-0.5 set the offset (this should leave enough gap to start with)
M500 (save the settings to eeprom)
M503 (read the eeprom and check the new settings has saved)

To lower the nozzle closer you need to increase the offset.. so
M851 Z-0.6

Then.. M851 Z-0.7 etc.. this will bring it closer

Let me know how you get on.

I flashed the latest zip file that says it was updated on 2/12 but it doesn't appear that any files are different in terms of modification dates. I'm having the same problem with the z axis. Silly question... are you sure you've updated the zip file?

Also, in the serial monitor in Arduino I see the initialization coming back from the board but when I'm sending commands I'm not getting anything back. What am I doing wrong here?

I've uploaded the new one a few times.. but it might be because its named the same its not deleting the original one. I've renamed it now and uploaded. Let me know if this sorts it.


I've unzipped and the file dates still seem incorrect. Shouldn't the Marlin.ino file be dated 2-12-18 for when you updated the firmware? See attached screenshot.

I tried uploading and it is not working. I have the same issue as before. It will move up using the front panel but not down. It sound like there is a single step the first time I press the down arrow but nothing afterwards. It is almost as if it is reading a signal as if it has hit its z limit.

Thanks a ton for your detailed reply!

I'll work today on this and keep you posted. I'm excited to get it working. Yesterday I did a lot with tweaking settings in Cura to optimize the print and get rid of the strings. I'm using PETG as I mentioned. Have you printed with this? Do you have optimized settings for retraction, nozzle temp, bed temp, etc?

As far as sending commands. I'm assuming using a serial connection with the Arduino software correct?

Do you happen to have the INO file for this?

Its inside the zip

1.1 or 1.2 sensor? Or perhaps it doesnt matter? :)

Mines the 1.2, but I bent the pins upwards. I don't think it makes a difference. If you email David he might do a 90 deg pin one for you. Either that or solder direct.