Loading
LrdSatyr8

Quick Swap Mounting System for Anet A8 3D Printers

by LrdSatyr8 Jan 8, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

i swear, more time and energy is spent upgrading this printer than its really worth. although, mine is printing really well these days.
yup...using it to print new parts for a corexy...then it will be my extra printer.

This machine is definately a tinker's machine. I wouldn't recommend it for a first time beginner, unless of course they enjoy tweaking, modifying, and continually improving the machine itself. However I will say this much. I have learned more about 3D printing and how to debug, fix, and diagnose just about every kind of printing problem you could possibly have with this machine. Is it for beginners, NO... it's it great for learning... YES... Once you get it tweaked and configured properly, it really can out print many of the high end machines right out of the box. I truly love this printer regardless of it's faults.

I've printed the mounting bracket and the Bowden plate for my Anet A8 it fits very well i will also share my marlin settings to center the hot end.
in the configuration.h tab go to line 886 X_MIN_POS and change to -28 and on line 887 Y_MIN_POS change to -35. this got my hot end dead center. i hope this helps.

Thank you very much for that information! I use my slicer offsets to center the print head, but I'm sure those who have installed Marlin will find this information very handy indeed!

I've created a version of the main Mounting Bracket that will work with a TronXY P802, as the distance between the two X-Axis rods is slightly smaller than on the Anet A8. Other slight differences are the width of the C-shape needed to be altered, a small bit of the bottom needed to be reshaped to accommodate for a screw, and I made the holes on the back go all of the way through.

As for the extruder carriage bracket itself, I had to use a Dremel to carve out a small section on both sides (where the C-shape slides into the carriage bracket), and I had to completely remove the belt tabs. On the Anet A8, the X-Axis belt is held by screws, but on the TronXY P802, there are tabs on the carriage bracket. So I Dremeled those off. The revised bracket works great with my P802.

I have attached the .STL file here, as well as posted a photo of the mount attached to my stock extruder in Makes. I have also posted this as a Remix, where the SolidWorks file can be downloaded and altered if need be.

Very nicely done bro... Thanks for sharing it!

can you include or link original files, i want to modify this a bit and f360 doesnt like the 3do.

All the files are STL files which can easily be imported and edited in just about any 3D software. I'm not an f360 user, but I know that F360 can import STL files perfectly for editing. Perhaps your download was corrupted. Try it again and see if that solves the problem.

Hi, great Job, and ist working… i did some changes… i fixed the plate with screw.
I Need some parts to connect the cablechain… have you something ?
thx.

Honestly no... never really cared for the cable chains myself... seemed like a waste of plastic and just increased the noise of the printer. Have heard horror stories of them actually wearing the wires out and causing more problems then they were suppose to solve. But if you want to have a go at making some kind of attachment of a cable chain to the mounting plate, go for it!

Amazign design!!
THX

Your'e welcome! :)

Do you think this can cut PCB boards? or aluminium if the feed rates were slow enough?

It truly depends on the type of laser you get. I got a cheapo 12v 400w laser and it doesn't touch metal. However I've discovered that you can paint metal, etch the paint and rub off the etched areas with rubbing alcohol to use as a template for masking. However, the only thing that can cut metal that I've found is a CO2 laser and then you're talking about serious toxic fumes. When dealing with a laser, you have to remember that you're actual burning the object you're cutting, so the fumes have to go somewhere. I highly suggest using some kind of ventilation system when using a laser on different types of materials. Something like paper or wood aren't bad, just smells like burning wood, but when you get into plastics and the like, you've got to consider the toxins that are produced by burning that type of material.

Now if you were to use the dremel attachment, you can etch PC boards rather easily. The trick is to make sure that the board is securely attached to the bed. A couple of pieces of double sided sticky tape will work. You can also do raised relief cutting in Wood Blocks as well using InkScape. Really a nice piece of software, but it does tend to bog down with large and extremely detailed stuff.

hola gracias por tu aportación me prodrias indicar los programa de grabar en la ser y cnc gracias

Muchas gracias ... Puede usar un programa gratuito llamado INKSCAPE para CNC y grabado láser. Puedes encontrarlo a través de Google. ¡Espero que ayude!

I LOVE this system! I have printed several of the files and they work GREAT 5-Stars! I noticed one thing that was lacking, that being an Anet A8 OEM Extruder device mount, so I made one! Please see THING # 2750693 I just posted. I do not want to take anything away from the great work by LrdSatyr8 on this thing, I just wanted to add something I felt was missing. LrdSatyr8, please consider adding my OEM mount to your collection here on this thing. You are welcome to it! I used Rhino Cad to make it and I would welcome any ideas for modifications.

Kindest Regards!

You can use the OEM mount on this system. You just have to use a dremel and cut two 3mm notches in both sides like in the pic and the OEM mount fits perfectly! Since i based the main mount on TazerReloaded's mount, the main stock OEM mounting plate will fit this mount perfectly if you just notch the back of the bottom plate. No problem! The pic included shows where you need to notch the plate from TR's original product.

Hi James
I am currently building an AM8 and it seems sensible to make the most of this time. So I am modifying and adding to your good efforts. I have added a tab at the top of the design with a hole so that the removable plate and the back plate can be fixed if required by a pin or nut and screw. I have filed off your tab sticking out of the back plate as I found it obstructing too much for my needs and stopped the sliding in of the front plate.
My first design is to replace the stock metal plate and add my redesigned MK8 Direct drive. I have attached files for comments and to show another attachment to your initial design.
I intend to make another front plate design to include initially a J-head extruder with my modified direct drive unit.
WIll show in operation if people are interested once the AM8 is completed.
Thanks for getting me thinking, designing and implementing.

Great idea but you really didn't have to go thru all the over engineering to get the same results from the stock OEM mounting plate if you just used a Dremel and put 2 3mm notches in the back of it, you can mount the stock plate to this system with NO PROBLEMS, just like I showed AB above! Just take a Dremel cutting disk and put the notches in the back of the bottom part of the plate, and it will slide into the mounting bracket perfectly! The nub at the back of the mount provides just enough tension to hold it in place! The only change you have to make is the position of the nozzle is moved 3mm forward.

Really digging this mounting system. Do you happen to know the probe offsets for the BLTouch mount?

No I don't but it shouldn't be too difficult to figure them out with a ruler or micrometer. Just home the print head to the front left corner and measure the distance between that corner and the tip of the BL Touch Sensor and viola... you've got your offsets!

Bl touch sensor mouth?

Got it covered... Added a BL Touch Mount plate to the system for ya! Lemme know if that works for you!

Comments deleted.

i wish you had a chimera mount with a bl touch for this

I added a BL Touch Mount to the system... should be happy with it! :)

Comments deleted.

Today I added a new piece to this system that you may actually find helpful. It's a Sponge Holder that you can clamp to the H-Frame and cut a piece of sponge or foam the size of the holder and place it in the front left corner of the frame. Then add the code (look at the description) to your starting script and it will wipe the nozzle clean every time it begins to print! I love this feature and it works very well! I look forward to hearing everyone's comments on this system and if it works for them!

Génial ! C'est quoi le modèle du laser ?

Si vous lisez la description ci-dessus, je donne un lien vers le type de laser que j'utilise avec mon imprimante. Ca y est et ce n'est pas très cher du tout ... https://goo.gl/obFmFD

J'utilise Google Translate pour cela si vous ne pouviez pas téléphoner! LOL

hi! how did you wired this laser to the board?

It's easy... Just plug it into the FAN1 port on the control board and control it with the Fan Percentages in your slicer software. I have a link to the Laser Module that I use in the description. It's really just plug and play! You will need to use a etching software like Inkscape or use a plugin for Fusion360 to create the paths for it, but it's really easy to do!

How powerful of a laser can you run off the Fan1 port? I would like to use the laser cutter to cut nice circles in 3/8" cork and etch a design into it, and I am uncertain of both how powerful to make the laser, and how to go about it. I assumed that the etching is one run and the cut is a second (unless you can manually cobble the gcode together). In any case, it is this post on Thingiverse that has me ready to reach into the field of laser cutting from 3D printing. Thank you for the hard work!

Hey no problem. You're limited by the fact that the FAN1 port only produces 12v of power. Personally I haven't tried any kind or truly powerful laser yet, and have only played around with a cheap 400w one... but go for it. Just remember, the lower the wattage, the more passes you'll have to make and the slower you'll have to move the laser to cut clean thru something. I've seen people use different types of lasers to cut thru things like plastic, wood, etc, but it had go over the same outline like 20-30 times before it cut clean thru, and it had to move slowly (like 10-20mm/s) So... I'm all for experimenting... hey you never know what you'll be able to figure out! But let us all know so we can benefit!

Okay, so I read that to mean that I need to make sure the laser uses 12v, but am constrained by price vs. wattage (obviously within the constraints of the board and power supply), and that I can cut the same cork slower if I don't want to spend $100 on a 5-watt laser. About right?

Again, thanks for the help. Think I am going to dial down to a 2.5 watt laser for the build and see how that goes. Of course, I will report my lessons. Knowledge is one of the few things that doesn't become diminished by sharing.

Hey all... I updated the files with a new Fan Duct that is adjustable in height for those that have longer J-heads. I also added the videos made by Mouss32... thank you for those! Looks like the system is very successful! Hope you all enjoy it and lemme know how you are using it! Thanks!

Im gonna remix this, adding a cilinder cut to the plate, so I can screw the main plate on the back of the bearing blocks. That way I don't have to dissasemble my print head, and I would be able to teach my printer how to draw :3 She learns fast, I only have to give her the tools XD

Very nice models, this is a great idea :D

I'm not quite sure what you mean about adding a cylinder to the the plate?!

Here is another of my laser editing 2.5W always with Inkscape for drawing, then Simplify3d for sending to the machine, because it allows a very good management of axes, etc ... you can add my video to your (Quick Swap Mounting System for Anet 3D Printers) so that people are well aware of the usefulness of your creation.

https://youtu.be/QSvGq9eQdpA

@Mouss32, I have the Simplify 3D software also. I am buying a 5W blue laser from Banggood soon. I hope it fits in the mount, but I can modify in RhinoCad if needed. My question to you is, what is your workflow from Inkscape to S3D? Is there a way in S3D to limit the fan1 so it does not ever run more than 30 minutes, (max run time for the laser I want to buy)? I want to use this to cut 1/8th inch (3.175mm) plywood. I hear I need to change the Z-axis lower for each pass to do this. Does S3D have a way to do that? Thanks for any info, and SORRY for hijacking this thread.

Here is an example with a wireless milling machine

https://youtu.be/cdS-XUrf4mw

VERY NICE! Love it! What software are you using?

Inkscape for drawing, then Simplify3d for sending to the machine, because it allows a very good management of axes, etc ...

Does this work with a 63mm bowden like this?

Yes... it does... I use the same bowden head!

Comments deleted.

Hello,

can you extend the fun duct more 20mm ? i use a precision piezo mount, and the duct doesn't throw air to the print area

thank you

I just updated this with a new adjustable fan duct that should solve that problem. Lemme know if it works for you!

already made it - remix section

Hello,

Already, thank you for this editing very practical and useful.

I asked myself the question, do you have the Marlin (configuration.h) for the axes of the tools please?

I'm not using Marlin on my machine, but I've found that the tool is only 10+ on the X axis and +7 on the Y. They are different on everyone's machine thou. Most slicing programs can adjust the position of the tool head with offsets. Using Simplify3D I just plug in the values and it will automatically adjust for where everything is before slicing and printing. It's not a very difficult thing to discover thou. If you move the toolhead to center of the bed, measure the distance from the X and Y axis center point is and that is your offset. If it is in front or the the right of center your offset will be a negative number, if it is behind or to the left of center it will be a positive number.

hi,
great job, i'm printing it now n i'd like to know what is the firmware to use dremel or laser. Thx

I used Inkscape for the laser... it's free. I haven't tried the Dremel yet. Haven't had a chance to test it.

Great job!
I just fitted it to my A8.
My E3D clone was a little longer, so I had to drill a couple of holes to fix the fan duct slightly lower

No problem... little fixes like that are easy to do with this system. I know I've had to shorten the top of my duct due to the length of my new bowden head being a bit shorter then the last one I had, but it wasn't a difficult process at all!

great Job!!! are your mounting plate compatible with TazerReloaded's tool mount? is it possible to use them with his support?

Yes, these plates will work with TazerReloaded's tool mount and he is fully aware of the remix as it's it stated on the main page. The improvements I've made will allow you to use any X-Belt attachment to the back and is alot easier to print as it requires no supports. I also added holes in the sides for future attachments such as sensors, different fans, etc. I've also beefed up the plates and added a catch button in the plates and in the mount to hold the plates firmly, which was a flaw in his design that would allow the plate to move up and down while printing which tended to create some problems in some prints. I've included a blank plate to allow anyone to create a mount for any tool they'd like to use themselves. I highly encourage anyone who does to let me know and I'll add it to this collection!

Great collection - thanks, I am looking at printing this weekend.

I've been experimenting to build something similar for laser/hot-end quick swap. My WIP designs are built around a metal dovetail plate ( similar to Arca-Swiss photography QR plates) to give the mount some strength and precision. You're work has defiantly given me something to think about.

Thanks... post some pics when you've got them installed!

Any chance of getting a diamond head mount?

If you mean for drill bits, you can use the Dremel Flexshaft mounting plate with a diamond bit... if that's what you mean?

Careful which flexshaft you get, the one I bought doesn't fit the plate (http://a.co/d/eNTpjaZ). The head fits snug, but the shaft itself is too small for the clamp. I guess I'll probably try to make a clamp that fits myself or something, or maybe try to fill the space with something.

I didn't expect there to be such a diversity among the Dremel Flex Shafts. I'll see what I can do to correct that plate to allow for different diameter sizes.

I remixed a plate that fits my Flexshaft https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3132149 and also remixed the plate mount so that it integrates with https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2514659 x-carriage.

Tweaks for Quick Swap Mounting System for Anet A8 3D Printers
Prusa I3 X-Carriage

how to attack timing belt?

You mean the X-Axis belt... it's easy... there are several options... 1) You can use the screws that came stock with the printer and screw them into the holes in the back of the mounting plate, then attach the belts to the screws (just like the stock mounting board) or 2) There are tons of x-axis belt tensionors on here that will fit perfectly with no modifiction since the holes are in the exact same position that the stock mounting carriage is in. If it works for the stock mounting carriage, it will work with this, no problem!

I just updated all the files for this... beefed up the mounting plate, added screw holes in the side of the main bracket for mounting sensors or fans whatever you want. I'm sure someone will come up with various other attachments for other uses. I did add a new Pen holder that will also hold something like an X-acto knife for cutting and plotting with. Lots of good stuff to play with. If anyone comes up with any new kind of plates for different tools, please let me know and I'll add it into the set for everyone to use!

can you post a pic of how the bowden fan duct is supposed to attach/ work? By that i mean a pic with the fan and hotend in place.

The fan duct goes behind the hotend. I've got a pic above of the fan duct in place. I'll take a photo of the Bowden head in place later this evening.

Saw your video of how it works in the facebook group. Looks awesome. And as i mentioned in the group, I am working on a dual e3d mount with room for a tron-xy sensor. Remixing from another design for different fan placement tho. When I am finished with the design I will gladly sent it to you (along with links of what its remixed from) for you to add to the collection if you would like. Unfortunately I wont be able to test it yet (no second e3d yet)

Sounds like a great idea! I'll look forward to seeing it and will add it to the file!