I designed a single, integrated piece that connects to the rear acrylic frame. For those that haven't printed this before 11/19, use the integrated rear pieces. For those that have already printed the non-integrated rear pieces prior to 11/19, you can either print just the connectors, or print the new integrated piece. I also accidentally deleted some correct pieces in my haste, so don't be alarmed when you see certain pieces with far less downloads. They're simply reuploaded.
The connector pieces were corrected and I replaced the incorrectly sized ones. Thank you to those that pointed that out.
Created pieces that connect the back of the Y axis rods to the acrylic frame. If you don't have the diagonal braces, the Y axis is barely attached to the long acrylic piece running along the bottom center. I made the connectors to provide for easy alignment of the corner pieces and to serve as another contact point with the frame. Those that have printed/installed the corner pieces should print this. I am working on a piece that integrates the connector so that it's a single piece rather than two.
I remade the belt tensioner to have a captive nut for the bolt that holds the idler AND added spacers for the idler so it does not move left and right as much as it use to. These spacers should not interfere with the bearing on the idler. I also strengthened the part, while still allowing the M3 x 16mm bolt to work.
This is a remix of Logan Royer's design. He took Prusa's Y axis design and modified it to fit on the Anet A8 (A6 won't work). I modified all parts but the endstop mount. Logan's endstop mount is included in the files, but you can also check out the rest of his parts here:
Note that I have a diagonal reinforcement piece in the pictures since I was installing that upgrade next.
To further reinforce your frame and compliment the new axis, I strongly recommend printing these:
Diagonal Reinforcement: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2351450
Top Reinforcement: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2646309
NEMA 17 stepper motor dampener: https://tinyurl.com/yalhohrr
1) Moved hole for the threaded rod 2.4mm closer to the smooth rod (horizontally) because the original has them too far apart. It causes the M8 rods to bend upon insertion.
2) Added cavity for captive M3 nut so that an M3 bolt can be used to secure the smooth rod. This allows for easy installation and removal of the smooth rods if you want to access the bearings/bearing housing.
3) Y motor bracket should preferably be used with a stepper motor dampener; otherwise, use Logan's original design. Without a dampener, you want to minimize on surface area in contact with the motor, and his design is both solid and barely in contact with the motor.
4) Strengthened the Y belt tensioner and added a captive M3 nut.
5) Created piece that attaches to the rear of the frame for added stability and easier installation.
- 4x 7.25in (184mm) of 5/16in (8mm) threaded rod
- 22x 5/16in (8mm) nuts
- 22x 5/16in (8mm) washers
- 4x M3 nut
- 4x M3 16mm bolt (At least 16mm. Longer is fine)
Material: PLA should suffice. PETG is desired.
Since these printed parts are going to receive significant pressure from the nuts and you want your axis to be as sturdy as possible, you need to make the part strong. I printed mine with 4 walls (perimeters), high PLA temps, at least 20% infill, and the thickest layer height possible (0.32mm on a 0.4mm Nozzle).
Part 0: Disassemble the Y axis entirely. Construct the axis separately and then push the entire thing down at the very end.
Part 1: Insert the smooth rods into the corner blocks first. Insert and lock in the M8 threaded rods from the Anet.
Part 2: Insert the 4 smaller 5/16" threaded rods into the corner blocks. When you tighten the nuts, constantly check that your bed runs SMOOTHLY along the rods. If you tighten them in an unbalanced way, you'll get binding of the bearings. You should have the entire axis constructed at the end of this step.
Part 3: Plop down the axis into the Anet's acrylic frame. Make sure your axis is perpendicular to the X axis. If it isn't perpendicular and you print a square, you'll get a rhombus instead. Tighten down the nuts.
Congratulations! You now have a new solid Y axis.