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viktor3d

Anet A8 Y Axis Rework

by viktor3d Jan 13, 2018
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is there something like this for the Z axis as well?

Check out Reprap Mendel machines. They're made entirely of threaded rod. Files are all open source too

great! ill just remix this to use 3/8 rods as the 8mm ones are far too flexible (could this be an option? i mean those 3/8 are RIGID! even at 1m lengths)
cant wait to do this, as ive been to lazy to do it from scratch for 3/8 rods

That's unnecessary, though I won't stop you. Those 8mm rods have no deflection. Your greatest load is your belt tension

I'm really happy about this! Easy upgrade. Wished to do even bigger XD

Thank you so much for this, it improved my prints and also made my printer quieter. Solid design, although the pieces that connect to the printer had different holes (had to make them taller with a dremel because I noticed after already printing them). :)

Would you mind posting a photo so I can fix the model?

Excuse my dremel rampage on the thing, I have to learn how to control it.

I agree with Lukill. The attachments to the frame are the wrong size as clearly illustrated in the photo. They pieces are no longer relevant to the Anet A8 frame. If I get a chance, I’ll post a remake that has the right size hole.

You guys are completely right. I had a moment to fix it and the new version has been uploaded along with it's corresponding screenshot in Fusion 360. Thank you for making me aware of this!

Thanks! Greatly appreciated.

Does anyone have the metric inner measurement between the front blocks? Id rather start a little closer than have to really tweak alot to make sure the frame is straight.

Hello,
What kind of pulley did you use for endstop? I have the stock ones and there remains a little space. I put a M3 nut for the moment. See photo. Thank you.

You probably don't want the nut there because it will cause the other side to rub against the plastic, which will impede movement. Having wiggle room isn't unordinary. We all have extra space there. I may consider remixing that piece to remove the extra space, but for now, what you have works.

Firstly I wanted to put 4 washers (2 on side) but I had only two :( I will let like this for the moment and will remix that part. I will enlarge thw two parts where the belt will be, to make it more sturdy.
Beside this I finished mounting the frames. I encountered one problem for the smooth rod. I couldn't screw on one corner. So i improvised by using the 3D pen and isolate the smooth rod.
I will change the carriage and then start calibrating the printer.

I just remade the Y belt tensioner to have integrated spacers for the idler. It's now available for download.

Doesn't the whole system need 22 x 5/16" nuts? I got 20 of them and am missing two.

Yeah, looks like you're right. Just recounted 22.

seems like some parts are missing from "thing files"

Read the description fully.

What LM8UU carriers are you using?

LM8UU Bearing Holder Using Single Cable Tie
by Duke_S

Hi,

I was wondering : How do you position that whole system in relation to the Anet A8's frame ?
I mean, with the stock back frame you have a reference (the smooth rod is "blocked" by the back frame, which is attached on the Anet A8's frame).
Also, does removing the back frame does not weak the main Anet A8's frame ?

Thanks :)

You can position it and move the bed. If the nozzle can reach both edges, you're set. You may need to change some offsets in the configuration.h (if you're running marlin). If you're not running Marlin, mark off where the nuts clamping the frame are with a sharpie.

You do remove a contact point with the main frame, but that doesn't compromise it's structural integrity. If you're concerned and are buying rods to create the y axis, pick up some more and do the diagonal + top reinforcement. The printer will be the most solid it can, second to the AM8.

I printed and installed that new system. I didn't print much since that change but here is my experience :

  • This is far more robust that the original acrylic frame
  • At first, one of the corner lifted up. I solved the problem by tweaking the nuts (I though is that the frame was not square).
  • I had these Bearing blocks/carriers (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2766861) but they not work with that new system, the Y switch is not pushed by the carrier. Tonight I'll see if the other version of that thing works of if I need to print those (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538105)
  • I think that the system that holds the belt is not so convenient : if you want to remove the plate and the carriage, you need to turn the whole printer, remove the belt from the carriage.
IGUS RJ4JP HOLDER FOR ANET A8
by Danghar
LM8UU Bearing Holder Using Single Cable Tie
by Duke_S

I made sure to give a good warming that lots of tweaking was involved haha. If nuts are not evenly tightened, the imbalanced tension will cause corners to lift like you experienced. You did the right thing to fix it.

Those are the bushing housings I use.

It sounds like you're talking about the clasp that the Anet's H frame uses to clasp the belt. We were given that from the start, and it's not part of this rework. If you meant something else, let me know. Hope it's been treating you well!