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RobSoundtrack

Updated 12 Hole Ocarina

by RobSoundtrack Jan 13, 2018
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Unfortunately I have printed this twice, once at full size and once at 85% and neither one of them was able to be played. Printed using amazon basic PLA, .175 layer height, 25% infill with supports outside only.

I am trying to print this and I am noticing a fair amount of stringing on the inside of the piece. Has anyone else had this problem?

Oh man this thing plays beautifully. Printed on a CR10-S Pro at 0.2mm layer height with a 0.6mm nozzle and 10% infill, no problems printing and absolutely no problems hitting the highest notes.

Hello. Someone print it with Prusa i3 mk3? I want to know jest settings and support type.

Just finished my 5th Ocarina. I've been trying different settings to try and get the high notes to sound cleaner. I own ceramic, wooden, and plastic Ocarinas. So I have things to compare my builds with.

I am using a Creality Ender 3, and I am splicing with Cura.
Material type is Florescent Orange PLA.

Settings for best results, so far, are as follows.
Layer Height = .12
Wall thickness= 3mm
Infill % = 50%
Brim enabled
Support Touching Build Plate enabled
Support Pattern = Zig-Zag
Support Density = 15%
Enable Support Brim enabled.

I should note, this print took about 17 hours.

where do you specify support pattern and density in cura? I only see placement and overhang angle. Did you print at default speed of 60mm/s?

UPDATE: ah, found it: Settings->Setting visibility, then I can turn on seeing those other support settings! Going to give it a go - thanks!

also interested in the print speed used. How did yours turn out jrinco11?

the supports were really stuck to the bottom of the ocarina -- I'm going to have to sand it down and find a way to make it look prettier (sanding black PLA leaves it white). Also, I can only get the highest 2 notes to make any sound if I blow really hard, and even then, it sounds off key. It otherwise looks very clean - not sure what went wrong. Unfortunately, don't recall what print speed I used, but can share my gcode in the event you can figure it out from there?

thats alright ill try it at the default and see how it goes. thanks for your reply!

I printed one of these and it didn't really work; halfway through my printer stopped extruding for a layer or two, so there's a thin crack. I've done my best to patch it up with a coating of super glue and it sounds lovely for the lowest few notes, but at about halfway it just sounds like air. I can't tell whether it's the crack or the mouthpiece, and whether or not it's fixable. Any suggestions?

It is almost definitely the crack, it will throw of the tuning, and if it isnt sealed properly the ocarina shouldn't work at all. Simple fix: print a good one. :)

Yep, that fixed it. I was reluctant to try again as some people say it doesn't work, and I wasn't sure whether it was the crack or some other problem. It sounds very nice now, except for the very top notes.

the top notes require a bit of precision, where to put your fingers, how it's turned and keeping your breath level, but if you really can't get it try a higher resolution and make sure there arend supports inside.

I printed this in red pla on 50% infill and 0.2 layer height. The low notes sound great but I am completely unable to play the high notes struggling to reach the high b and past that it sounds like blowing on a bottle.ive tried different airspeed and strengths but nothing works. Will higher resolution or infill help? Thanks.
EDIT: i found the solution: i printed the first the lying down, then another standing up and the only note on that one i can't hit is everything open.

Really great , it work for me !

In the comments I keep seeing this, Person A. Mine has no sound. Person B. You should print without supports on the inside. Person A never replies back. Well I'm here to say that I printed with NO supports on this inside. It has no sound. Just air.

Same for me. No supports inside, but no sound coming out of it

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

this is the setting in simplify3d so it don't print supports in the inside

currently printing and just realized its printing supports on the inside.. that's a bad thing right?

Mine did the same. Although mine still sounds great, I'm trying to come up with a way to get it out without cutting into the ocarina.

I made this, and it sounds golden on the lower end, but has trouble getting up high. Any way to fix this?

Mine is the same. Would love to be able to fix the high end.

If you're not very experienced with ocarinas, it's possible this is a breath control issue. Higher notes require more airspeed.

There are visible error polygons in the Thingview view (at the holes) - I am wondering if you can get rid of those visible errors. Thanks

Hi! Love the print, but my ocarina seems to be unable to play the higher notes. I printed at 20% infill, would 100% infill make a difference there?

could anyone pls tell ne if ist IS soprano c or f or whatever??
would bei awesome, i want to Play together with Others, so i News to know that...

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

This turned out great! Thanks! It's totally an accessory for my D&D bard. heheh.

do you have the file for the stand? i would love to display mine

After I printed mine with the settings that were posted, only air would come out when I tried to play. Can anybody tell me how to fix it?

Do you have support on the inside? You don't want support on the inside.

That's what did it.

Nice! I printed it on my CR-20, took 15 hours at the following settings in Cura :
0.1mm layer height, 4 walls, 30% triangle infill.
20% support density, overhang 30%, zigzag.

I've yet to get a relatively clean print with supports (seems like an impossible task), so it's a bit ugly on the bottom. But it works! Very cool, thanks for sharing.

This kicks ass ! I printed it on a Anycubic i3 mega. sounds great and is fun to play. I have no idea what goes into tuning this so I was wondering, will changing the size of the build or the thickness of the walls change the quality or the pitch. if so which is better thicker heavier or thin lightweight ?

Which settings did you use in the slicer? I'm new to this and It looks like it will not stand and need support. Every time I've added support, I end up with too much.
Also wondering if setting infill to 100 will fill the internal of the ocarina itself.

Do an overhang test, and when the underneath stops looking good, thats the angle you want to start the support at. In Cura this is called "Support Overhang Angle" (may be hidden by default). Also make sure you have "Support Placement" set to "Touching buildplate", that way it won't generate support inside.

The other settings you really just need to play around with yourself, but they should be okay by default. Maybe play with "Support Density" if you need more support.

My advice is to print with a raft as well, as this print is very easy to knock off the buildplate.

As for the infill, the "infill" setting is how it fills between the walls. Since the model is hollow, it will not fill this no matter how much infill you use. This is just how much plastic is in the walls. You can see this for yourself in Cura, after you slice it in the top right drop down select "Layer View" and there is a vertical slider on the right. Drag it down a bit and you can see the infill in the walls.

Thanks. I think I have it sliced and figured out. Going to try to print soon!

The larger it is, the lower the sound should be.

This is dope! I'm an electrical engineer, not a musical instrument designer, so I was at a loss about the high notes! Thanks for coming in and finishing the design!

So a printed this ocarina using a creality Ender 3 and the small scale version worked although
,It couldn't play high scale notes now I made a full scale version with 50% infill oppose to
The 100 of the smaller one and when I blow into it, it doesn't play any of the notes and just
Sounds like air. Any suggestions? (The print itself looks accurate to the one in the picture
And looks good)

Here's an audio recording of 'Zelda's Lullaby' played on a printed ocarina:
https://instaud.io/31IF

Hey!

The ocarina is slightly of tune. Are there any adjustments to make to make it pitch perfect?

What would be the best way to add my name to this?

Also, are there any other good 3d printed instruments out there?

I'm also interested how to put my name

I ended up using Blender.

If you're willing to go there, I used a text object, fastened it to a lattice, then shrink wrapped it to the object. Just search up how to carve your name using lattice in Blender.

Printed at .2mm resolution, 20% infill. At first I did not change the support mode to "Touching Bed", (I feel that should have been in the instructions). Now that i have the correct setting and have completed the print, the high notes do not play whatsoever. Not sure if i did something wrong or if it is just poorly designed.

Hello, is possible to have the stl file of the stand please? Thank you so much

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

What is this ocarina tuned to? What note is plated when all holes are closed?

Comments deleted.

Ive made a stand that SHOULD work with this ocarina. If anyone tries it, please share so I can confirm it works!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3141155

Crystal Ocarina Stands

put your thing is a remix of this thing to obtain more visibility ^^

Interesting, never thought of that.

EDIT: added a stand specific to this model!

Comments deleted.

I am beyond amazed at the fact that I was just able to print an Ocarina that works better than a clay ocarina I paid money for at a medieval festival. The one I bought cost as much as a 1kg spool of filament, and the one I printed cost not even 100g of filament. Fantastic!
I have a question though - the thumb holes are kind of off in placement compared to how I'd hold the ocarina. Can I move the right one more to the right without impacting the sound? Provided I keep the shape and size intact

Hi everyone, since I needed a stand for my ocarina, but the one in the photos was no more on Thingiverse, I've decided to design it by myself. You can find it here as http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3112850 .

Hope you like it!

Ocarina stand

Turned out amazing each hole has a different note. Holding the Ocarina tightly with all holes closed it produces an A note.

Also I printed at 40 degrees with 50% infill and 25% support infill

Does not sound good at any notes, but high notes produce only a whistling noise, what a shame :/

Im new to 3d printing. And I am using a makerbot replicator but I cant find the setting to only have support external and not everywhere. Anyone know where I can find that setting?

in cura its a support setting called "touching build plate"

Printed this with settings provided, took 9,5 hours on my ender 3. i LOVE it, been playing it alot. Tho think i need to print it again. The high notes just dont work or barely do. Awsome project!!

Printed this on my CR-10 Mini and wow!. It came out amazing and sounds amazing. Little windy on higher notes but i mean for something i can take on a float trip or music festival and not worry about it breaking or care if it does its perfect.

I'm printing one at this moment and the program that I use "simplify 3d" put these covers inside, I do not know why but I did not realize it and now I'm pausing the printer to remove it, makes at least 3 or 4 of them , I have no doubt that it will only be decorative

Hey bud. Ok check for any settings relating to solid layer, I can't remember exactly where it is or under what tab when you configure your print but that will sort that issue out for you as you are printing and all of a sudden BAM... Random solid layer appears.

Hope this helps.

You need to change support type from "Normal" to "From Build Platform Only". This will prevent the the slicer from creating the supports inside the model.

What note am i need to get when i blow it with no holes closed? trying to figure out if mine printed ok and is at least close to tuned. also, is that a good way to check? or should i check all the scale? does sanding the holes improve the sound?

Thanks for the design!

just finished printing one. no sound. now what? everything looks clean but no sound.

Is there support material on the inside?
Just have to make sure that the supports are only on the outside (or touching the build base)

that nice looking thing that the ocarina is sitting on, is there a link to that? i'd like to print one..

It is not mine, and looks like the original creator removed it :(

ive printed this today, but it doesnt emit any sound; just the noise of the air flowing...

ive printed at 40º, in order not to use any support...

I may have missed it, but is there a file for the stand?

There was, but looks like the original creator removed it :[

I was wondering if POSSIBLE, to design one with an angled/swept back mouthpiece so it is more comfortable to handle ;) Otherwise, this Ocarina is GREAT!

I printed mine with translucent ABS. The sound was horrible, too airy and I couldn't get the high A and B. THen, I sanded the "sound hole" reducing the length of the 45 degree "bridge" ( sorry, I don't know the names of these things) and made it flat ( it was kinda curvy). The sound improved a little bit. THen, I sanded the whole thing with 600 grit and the hole edges, now it's waaay less airy and sounds way better. I can even get the A and B sounding well.
Now I plan to add some clear varnish, Let's hope it will improve the sound rather than destroying it.

Actually, the sound improved because I water sanded it. Now that the ocarina is fully dry, the sound isn't as good as before. Which, means that it indeed is a good idea to seal the surface with prime/paint/varnish.

Thanks so much, this printed beautifully, but it will not wistle. Are there any suggestions to correct this?

Thats no bueno! A number of people have found that their supports were turned on throughout and had to reprint with only lower supports.
If its not there, back to the drawing board

Awesome build, works really well! I printed a couple others at 50% and 70% size for my daughters and they also work and sound great. Thanks!

Great job, amazing! Before printing I thought I would need an instruction how to play it, but the tunes are played very intuitively similar to a recorder. On my printer I used 100% scaling an obtained a C tuned "instrument". The sound is perfect, even though I used only 10% infill. Thanks!!

dear friend, ive printed this ocarina, but it doesnt emit any sound; could you give me some tips? thank you in advance!

dear davilajbr, it's hard to say what the problem is on you ocarina without any photos. Compared to a recorder flute, do you think the labium is sharp enough? my printer has a 0.4mm nozzle, what nozzle do you use? My ocarina struggles with the highest tunes where all holes are open, but it works with at least some holes closed. Does your ocarina produce any sound the more holes you close?

my nozzle is 0.5mm, and i really didnt get any sound...

dalivajbr, your print seems to be missing the fipple/sound hole. If you look at the model, on the back side of the ocarina (the side with the 2 thumb holes), there should be a hole near the base of the mouthpiece. That is where the sound is actually produced.

I'm not sure how/why your print would be missing that though. Some weird issue with the slicer that you're using maybe?

I'm late to the game here but also make sure supports are not turned on for the inside of the instrument

Hi,

Where can I find the displayed stand for this Ocarina ?

Thank you =)

Hey sorry for the late reply,
it was not my stand and the bad news is the original creator doesn't have it on the site anymore :\

i printed one and for whatever reason it doesn’t make a good sound. I printed in PLA at 20% infill.

im trying to play it by chance would u have a note or key chat for it

I too have an issue with Z banding :/

Try printing it horizontally. Tall prints do this to my printer as well.

Hey, I have had trouble with removing the supports in the whistle part of the print and there fore breaking it. How should i remove the supports on the whistle?

Maybe using dissolvable filament for support is a good idea. Even if you have internal support, warm water can dissolve PVA. But PVA is tricky to print.

oh no, sounds like something bad is at work here! Can you post any pics by any chance?
I'm guessing the supports go to the bed plate and not internal, hopefully those are turned off

So to print this i need to have the supports only go to the bed plate and not internally?

thank you for the fast reply time and the help with solving the issue.

Arrrgh, why did I have to read this AFTER a 12 hour print

Mines at 1 hour 50 minutes and I just read this, I can only imagine your pain.

Made one. Lovely design, thank you.
0.2mm layers, 50% infill, 1.2mm walls. Tilted the model backwards 15deg to get better supports on the whistle opening. White Velleman PLA, sanded (200 and 600 grit), no other finish yet.

My Cura settings creates a some support towers inside of ocarina. Is this ok? I dont see how can i remove this when the print is done...

Nope, you need to set Cura so that they do not appear - just select "Touching buildplate" in Support type.

Just printed one. It looks phenomenal, but the two highest notes don't really work on mine. It might just be my printer though...
Sanding now, and I plan on primer + paint + clear coat later.

I printed up one of these last night, and I just wanted to say thanks for helping me to fulfill a childhood fantasy of owning an ocarina! :)

I also have a question with regards to the effect of the selected infill percentage upon the sound of the ocarina, though. When I printed it up, I only used a 40% infill, but the ocarina's sound feels somewhat flatter than what it perhaps should be. While I'm not too concerned with the sound of this one, since it was more of a test print than anything else, would it be better to have a higher infill percentage for any future prints?

Hi! this looks awesome! but i have a question before i start.
how long will this take? i have an hour and a half at a time to use my 3d printer every other day and i would like to know so i could work out a way to be able to use it longer if needed.

Hey Hey, this has taken people anywhere between 5 and 14 hrs;
sadly, it's hard to get more specific as it depends on your printer and your slicer settings
I hope you get to make one!

This is awesome! Thanks for making the design I made work way better! I haven't printed it yet, but it seems from videos and comments to work great! I've updated my thing with a link to this one!

A few questions:
Do you have the source file (SLDPRT or such)?
Do you have the file for the base in the picture?

Nimaid!!! You are amazing!!! You're design is fantastic and has obviously inspired many!
Thank you so much!

So I remixed by importing the original SLDPRT into AutoCAD 2018, and converting it to a solid, so I maybe I can export into a common file type for you, since it is all in the autodesk family- Just let me know what is best (IGES or similar)

The base is Programer786's, I'll add a link. I added it to my list of Makes but should probably put this in the description!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1726225

Let me know whatever I can hook you up with Nimaid!!

Aww! :) Thanks! I'm happy to see that others are also interested in this project!

The main reason I asked about source files is that I think it's good practice to make Thingiverse designs as easy to remix as possible. If you took the solid and imported it to AutoCad, I don't think giving the source file is as big of a deal, as that workflow already lost some of its source editability. (As in, you can't just tweak SolidWorks dimensional variables or equations anymore.) However, someone in the future may find it useful if you uploaded the AutoCad project file, so they can see how you modified it, and perhaps save them the hassle of importing it to AutoCad again! Just a suggestion.

Putting the link to the base in the description would definitely be nice for someone stumbling upon this looking to make a gift for someone. :)

Thanks again for the awesome work on this remix!

I hope you come back to it and make the ultimate oc!

Hi, did you ever post a source file? I'm trying to make a two-chamber version.

I have tried to print this three times, but without success.. i have tried different support types, but at some point it fails =(

Thats not good! Are you printing it in the same orientation (vertical)? What is the failure, maybe i can help

Yes, I'm Printing it vertical.. but it seems that the support is not strong enough... :(. Should I try horizontal?

If the supports are breaking from the bed, adding a brim has worked really well for me.
Before I started doing that I had lost quite a few ocarina prints, as some of the really small supports would break and get dragged around.

I dont think so, it hasnt been tested that way either. I woyld try slicing until the sulport is strong enough. Use a raft too if you have to.

My first attempt at this fell over. I was sad. going to try again.

Good luck! Hope you get it

Painters tape solved the problem for me. But later on, I sought the help of Elmer.

Ocarina plays great. I've already learned a few songs on it.

Comments deleted.

do you know what note this is tuned to? I just made one currently sanding it then a couple coats of polyurethane

any chance of a tenor or soprano remix?

If I recall correctly, it is intended to be a C ocarina, but my makes always fall between like C and C#
I will have to take a tuner to it again.
That urethane finish sounds awesome and I'm always looking to see others finish work!
If you posted it as a make afterwards that would be amazing!!
I have always wanted a tenor one, but I'm not positive I'm the guy for the job- maybe one day

On the full size one I am having trouble keeping my finger covering the left hand with the double hole, would slightly smaller holes change the sound much?

Yes, the size of the holes is what determines the pitch

Just posted, also I am having some troubles with the higher notes. Do you have the stl files of the other version where you said the high notes were better?

Looks awesome, can't wait for the print to complete.
I had to scale down to 80% for it to fit on my print bed... do you think it will throw off the pitch?
Also... that base is cool... do you have that posted somewhere?

Hey hey! It will certainly make it higher pitch.
Theoretically, yes it would affect the intonation as well; I would have to do some math but I think the best thing to do is try it out.
I would say try it out (and let me know what happens plz!!)
The thing I'm concerned most with is the windway/fipple being scaled down, but again- I'm curious to see.

The holder is not mine, you can get it here!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1726225

The link to the base is broken :(
Do you know of another source?

I printed one at 80% and it plays 1.5 notes high, my 100% one plays 0.5 notes low, my 90% one playes 0.5 notes high, and so my 95% that is printing should be jusssttt righttt.

Hey... What is the song you played in the video?
Sounds Great!

Thanks so much! LOL It's Celine Dion's song from Titanic, My heart will go on.
Its super cheezy I know, kind of a running gag from another site.
Thanks again!

Thx man.
Again, keep up the good work!

do i print this upside down or laying on the side?

Vertical, like the thingview preview. Should drop into the slicer in the correct orientation, print with supports (but not inside the part obvi)

hopefully the picture helps explain. There looks to be parts of the model that extend over the holes

they're right it prints fine, but i bothered to fix it anyway.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2798487

Cleaned Updated 12 Hole Ocarina

Ahhh i see it but doesnt show up in my layer view so it doesnt print with any issues.

It looks like there are some things that are part of the model that are extending over the finger holes, is this intentional, an error, or does it not matter for the final print?

Im afraid im not sure I see what you mean. Are they your supports? In any case, it is fine.

What was your CR-10 setting for wall thickness? I'm using the latest Cura and the default is .8 MM. You said you've used 1.8, does it really matter? I just want it to work when I play it.

Probably not, especially if you are properly calibrated. You just dont want to leak.
If you have some underextrusion and thin walls then obvi it will matter bc air will escape.
Give it a try!