Tevo Little Monster Trike Adapter for Trucks/Carriages

by bLITzJoN, published

Tevo Little Monster Trike Adapter for Trucks/Carriages by bLITzJoN Jan 14, 2018


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Fusion 360

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No denying, the carriages on the TLM require a fair amount of adjusting to achieve perfect tension with the added challenge of being equal across all three. I've attempted to take the guesswork out of it by designing an adapter that converts the carriage into a three-wheel configuration, provides consistent tension, and uses existing hardware.

I'm publishing this as a Work in progress so that fellow TLM patrons can help test this with me. Please post comments on your experience and any constructive criticism you may have. Thanks!!

Replaced V11 models with repaired ones as they were indicating an error in 3D Builder for Windows. I'm taking this off WIP. While we know they will always be a work in progress, I'm happy with the current models and feel V11 is as good as they are gonna get for this type of mod. Be on the lookout for a new mod I'm working on that takes the trucks to a whole new level!

These might be the finals. I'm very happy with the results so far. They don't eliminate the concentric adjustments, but overall make it much easier to adjust. The little hole in the middle is not for a screw but to force the slicer to reinforce the area with outlines through the entire part. Instructions remain the same. After I apply to a couple more TLMs, I may update the instruction pics and deem this model complete while I figure something else out to make them self-adjusting.

I tweaked the over length as it made it rather difficult to get the bolts through. I must've left it long for when I was dabbling with the suspension design. I also increased the height just slightly as I noticed tidbit of bowing when tightened. I don't believe it causes much of an issue but could rub off debris over time. Side note: I uploaded the wrong V8s, they have been corrected.

I found the current design actually flexed to the point the posts would rub, so I made them stiff. If you want some flex it might be worth printing in semi-flex or nylon. I will still pursue a design that doesn't require adjustments of the concentric nuts, but at least with a trike the adjustment will be even across the 3 wheels.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:








0.20 mm




Print with 5 outlines and you won't have infill. I recommend Taulman 910 Nylon. If you use something else, let me know how it turns out!

I've printed these in PETG and they work as well!


Carefully remove the three carriages from the printer and disassemble the two stationary wheels on each of them. We want the concentric wheels in place for potential adjustments. This is a great opportunity to inspect the wheels for wear and crunchiness. I recommend picking up some quality replacements (e.g. 3DVice). No additional hardware is necessary and you can use the same Allen wrench and open end wrench from your installation kit.

  1. Insert the Allen bolts through the carriage plate
  2. Squeeze the bottom adapter and slide onto the Allen bolts (like a bow)
  3. Place both brass washers on the bottom adapter post
  4. Place the bearing on the bottom post
  5. Press the locking nuts into the top adapter
  6. Place the top adapter and loosely tighten the bolts to allow some movement for flexing
  7. Adjust the two concentric nuts on the other two wheels to furthest position away from each other.
  8. Rinse and repeat for the remaining carriages

Eccentric concentric nuttiness.

All ready to go; well, after I finish the other two and put the printer together. They should hold their own weight with little effort to slide up and down with absolutely NO bearing crunchiness.

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A lot of flaws in this design (v11). The bearing rubs against the top piece because of how you have the position controlled. Either there should be a printed ridge to jam against the inner sleeve on the top piece or make room for a washer on each side of the bearing. And even with both washers on the truck side, the bearing isn't out far enough from the truck and the replaced side of the truck is closer to the 8020.

It doesn't take the adjustment away! I ended up F***ing with the more than when I pulled it out of the box. There is almost no clearance between the sides of your adapter and the 8020 so the target adjustment range is smaller the the as designed one. The bearing should stick out towards the 8020 by at least another 1mm. But even then you still have to make adjustments! I have no idea why you choose the fixed side instead of the eccentric side to replace.

I apologize if I come of as grumpy, but I just spent the last half hour dicking around with the adjustments that only took me 5 minutes with the original design. I opted out of designing my own cause I thought it would be faster; regretting that choice. Hopefully your new mod for the trucks corrects these issues.

Also the top piece needs support in the captive nut otherwise you get stringers that you have to clean out of the hole. Rather than have a sharp 90 ledge, add 10-20 degrees so that it can print clean without needing support.

You're fine. I want to laugh with you on the fiddl'n with it more now. I am on version 11. The original goal was to make it self-adjusting and it isn't. It is easier, it really is. I wonder if your wheels are smaller than min cause the clearance is close and some previous versions had rubbing issues.... and, boy, when they rub they make nasty screeching noises like scratching on chalkboard and cause z-ringing like a mofo. It's far from perfect and I'm trying a different direction. To make v11 successful, you pretty much have to use a stiff nylon like Taulman 910. PETG works, but it flexes over time and causes weird behaviors. I'll give you a hint the direction I'm going is no wheels at all. ;-)

I was using Taulman's Bridge which isn't to far away from 910, definitely better than PETG, and I didn't see much flexing. There was only about 0.4mm of clearance between the printed parts and the extrusion, smaller wheels (or bigger chamfer on the wheels) could definitely be the cause of that.

I think I know where you are going. While I was in the extrusions I took a bunch of measurements and plan to come out with a plug and play wheel version. Probably sooner than later because after an 8 hour print one of the carriages is already loose....

At least we both agree the current configuration needs help. The only way to really help the 4 wheels is to have the concentric nuts on the outside and use longer bolts so you can fiddle with them while in the track. The trike setup does make the adjustments easier and less expensive to use 1 less wheel. The goal was to make it entirely self-adjusting but there's not a lot of room to work in for a "printed" suspension system to work. I have 2 directions to go from here and I'm currently travelling down one and hope to have some solid results this weekend.

Hey buddy...could it be that bottom and top of version 11 are both the same files? ;)

Nope, they are correct (one has recessed holes for the nylon nuts); however, I downloaded them and 3D Builder reported having errors. I fixed them and uploaded repaired models.

Those following, I uploaded v11 which may be the final model.

Thank you, just bought mines I look forward to the updated pics. Thank you very much for the hard work and time put into this!

I like this very much! Similar to how the Rostock Max V2 addresses wheel tension on the cheapskate carriages. Great idea! Great work!

Thanks! I was inspired by my RMv2 along with the 3 wheel Tricklaser trucks. It's a rather tight space I have to design around the belt in the middle. I published another update that makes the bar stiff since there's no avoiding the concentric adjustments, for now. I've got some ideas to further the design when time permits.