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Petsfang Duct for CR10 MicroSwiss/Stock/E3Dv6/Volcano/TevoTornado /Tarantula Hot End/E3Dv6 CNC Mount & 5015 fan or Stock fan&bed leveling

by dpetsel, published

Petsfang Duct for CR10 MicroSwiss/Stock/E3Dv6/Volcano/TevoTornado /Tarantula Hot End/E3Dv6 CNC Mount & 5015 fan or Stock fan&bed leveling by dpetsel Jan 16, 2018
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Summary

Petsfang Duct Cooling System



4/21/2018
Stay Tuned. I have taken all your suggestions into consideration and have incorporated them in the upcoming files. I will be posting them in the next few nights. They are all almost done.


4/24/2018
Update files are up.
Main Base - Tevo Tornado and CR10/S/S4/S5/ Ender
There are several tiny measurement differences between the Tevo back plate and CR10.
I took these differences and combined them into 1 base mount that will work for both.
I added a breakaway airflow deflectors in the bottom of the combined base to accommodate the Tornado Hotend.
Modified screw holes for positioning around ABL devices and enlarged them so you can use 3mm screws. Added EZABL optional sleeve inserts for the new 12mm ABL devices.
Moved EZABL location so it will have 1 offset for all hot ends.
Changed length of the wire strain option and reinforced the neck.

  1. New duct exterior profile. Radius inside and out. Cut out around nozzle for more view.
    Plenum volume stays the same. Outlet size and angle stays the same.
    I believe the offsets are now a plugin with Tim Hoogeland's, TH3D Unified Firmware.
    If you are running something other than his Unified all the EZABL offsets are X +48, Y=-2

    4/22/2018

E3Dv6 Files
Really happy with these upgrades.

  1. New duct exterior profile. Radius inside and out. Cut out around nozzle for more view.
    Plenum volume stays the same. Outlet size and angle stays the same.
  2. Relocated screw holes and changed them to 3MM screws to secure duct to base.
  3. Changed cap to base and base to back plate screws to 3mm x 20mm.
  4. Inserted screw recess in the Main Base for 20mm screw to back plate on main base leaving it hidden behind main caps.
  5. Added side interior clearance for 3mm screws extending through the base on the 40mm fan cap.
  6. Added lower construction feature to strengthen front to back lower right and allow more room for wire routing.

4/21/2018
First group of files are the Volcano updates.
Updates include:

  1. New duct exterior profile. Radius inside and out. Cut out around nozzle end of the duct for more view. Plenum volume stays the same. Outlet size and angle stays the same.
  2. Relocated screw holes in the base and changed them to 3MM screws to secure duct to base.
  3. Higher mounting point so you don’t have to change Z endstop or lower your buildplate.
  4. Changed cap to base and base to back plate screws to 3mm x 20mm.
  5. Reduced the clearance for the back nuts to keep them secure.

4/18/2018
Parts going forward will have the option to use 3mm screws.


A member on Thingiverse did a mod of my Petsfang Duct to cut the 90 degree edges on the front of the Petsfang. I realized his mod had changed the volume and could otherwise affect the airflow. Static pressure ducting can flow around 90 degree angles in the plenum because there is no significant airflow speed in the plenum just static air pressure being regulated by the outlets. So…. For those of you that wanted the Petsfang Duct without the harsh 90 degree corners and harsh interior corners, I redrew the duct to accomplish this. Because it lost a lot of volume doing this you will notice the duct is about 5mm taller and 3mm wider front to back to gain back this volume.
You make your own choice. Some say it looks better. Some like the shorter. more compact original.

This mod of the Duct will install & perform exactly like the original.

I will leave both STL files up. It prints in the same orientation as the original. "Front-Face Down"


Here is a pic.
The file is named: TevoCR10_CurvdEZPrint_duct4.11

image

The Petsfang is not just my creation. It is Cappy De, Tarek Delbridge, Silvio Garieri, Pemic, Richard Thomas, David Cruz, Davey Wavey, Joel Adams, Josh Ferri among others who spent hundreds of combined hours refining and testing this design to ensure it's superior results and fitment on multiple platforms. The Petsfang would be nowhere without our combined input! I can't thank them enough.


4/19/2018
Updated Tevo Wire strain. It appears that if you put the zip tie with the clip portion of the zip tie to the side of the wire strain it interferes with the left side rail. I wasn't anticipating this. If you put the clip to the top or bottom it has clearance. The new strain takes this into consideration and will clear even with the clip to the side.


4/16/2018
I have given these to a lot of people. This is a top and bottom sleeve that fits through the standard 18mm ABL mount and allows you to use a 12.5mm ABL. Since this is an adapter it has the same offsets as the original 18mm. It will fit my mount or almost any 18mm mount. They are interlocking top and bottom.
No need to print a new base just to try a 12.5 ABL.


image

4/15/2018
Check out the new Dial Indicator Gauge Mount for the Petsfang

image

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2863991


The Petsfang currently supports the following printers:
Creality Cr10,S4,S5, Ender , TEVO Tornado and Tarantula

Hot Ends:
Micro Swiss Hot Ends
E3Dv6 and Volcano Hot Ends
Stock CR10 and TEVO Tornado Hot Ends
CNC Aluminum Mount for E3D Hot Ends

Fans:
Stock Radial Fan or 5015 Radial Fan Upgrade

Auto Bed Leveling Sensors:
TH3D EZABL and BL-Touch


Installing The Petsfang With The BLTouch & 5015 Fan

Thanks goes to Tevo Owners Group Member Bryan Rodriguez
For putting together such a great installation tutorial.
You can view it here:
https://www.evernote.com/shard/s316/sh/b7a5e84b-4b7c-4b2b-9611-b1cc422c07ce/a3006e4c20d03631


All Tips are greatly appreciated.


PLEASE NOTE:
When I upgrade or re-design parts they will always be backward compatible. If I change anything on one part I will verify that it will fit on the prior parts. A base you downloaded 2 months ago will fit a duct I redesigned today.


image

For those of you asking for print orientation.......


image





Found another independent water test today. Really shows off the centralized airflow without any turbulence and focused less than a mm below the nozzle.


4/3/2018
Added the "Naming Convention" for the files displayed in the files section.
It is at the bottom of the page under printing notes.


3/27/2018
Added Petsfang Duct Illuminare
It is an LED Light Bar for the Petsfang.
You can find it at the URL below:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2842512


image


3/26/2018
I am fine tuning parts. I have increased the center fan wall thickness on Tevo bases to make them a little cleaner to print. I removed a small cutout in bottom of base that is not needed for access to a grub screw on the Tornado like it is on the CR10.


3/20/2018
Added CNC Duct for E3D Volcano Hot End. You will need the spacer to locate the BLTouch the correct distance from the bed plate.

3/8/2018
Modified modular wire strains for close tolerances to right and left rails and brought down 8mm to clear the wheel/bearings holding the back plate by 3mm.


3/2/2018
It was brought to my attention by member Silvio Garieri that the wire strain didn't allow for the full 400mm height to be used on his TEVO. I made a modular duct that can be used with our without the part. The wire strain with the wires attached will clear all aluminum guide rails. Of course if you didn't use the wire strain mod you had no issues with clearances anyway.


2/28/2018
Designed a cap for the E3Dv6 & Volcano mod to allow the use of the stock or upgraded 40mm fan to cool the hot end heat sink.


While I was at it I modified the interior of the duct to supports with some minimal fillets to allow it to print cleaner and easier, for those of you that had problem.


2/22/2018
Added E3D Volcano Duct.
Use the Bases with E3Dv6 & Volcano prefix.


2/21/2018
Member Joel Adams found his TEVO Tornado printed base fit tight on the base plate. I had Cappy De verify base plate thickness. It appears TEVO back plate is 3 tenths of a mm thicker than the CR10. I adjust TEVO files to reflect that thickness and make the base slide on easier.
Updated TEVO base files marked V2.21 are current.
Base install video.
https://youtu.be/JVIstmXrJ1A


2/18/2018
Added Youtube video showing duct printing orientation and supports
https://youtu.be/03R_0Qzzp4Q

7pm
Added TEVO Stockfan STL file
A couple of you said the Micro Swiss stock fan duct was a little tight to fit to the top of the TEVO Tornado base. I added 4mm for clearance and adjustment down to the nozzle in a seperate STL file.


2/17/2018
Independent testing from user Pemic showing airflow with water test. Pics.


2/16/2018
OK. This is going to be a lot of upgrade info……
Modifications to TEVO Parts
Worked with Thingiverse member Pemic on TEVO Tornado base mount.
Modifications to include.

  1. Large cutout in lower base to allow easier routing of hot end wires.
  2. Since this is a the Tornado is a CR10 clone it appears there is a little difference in the clearance to the X Gantry. Back clip for mounting adjusted .3mm to clear the gantry better.
  3. Because of the X gantry clearances I moved the EZABL and BL Touch to give better clearance and stay within back mounting base.

NEW
E3Dv6 Petsfan Duct mount for the popular CNC machined aluminum base.
Worked with Facebook member Cappy De to design a duct for the popular CNC mount for the E3Dv6 being sold on Ebay and other sites.
Cappy De was good enough to test print these mounts for me for fitment. They hold extremely firm to the CNC support and will be a good addition to that mount. You will notice that there are a lot of filets and weird angles to allow for a clean print with supports from build plate only. Don’t forget to set supports for these and check your slicer settings.


I want to thank you all for your support of this design and if you have a suggestion or questions please use MESSAGE on Thingiverse to contact me. I read every Message and don’t discount any suggestions. I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.


######## 2/13/2018 #########
A CR10s user had a problem with his stock hot end wires being able to be bent to the base side race relief. I put a small "back wall" extending from the race to keep your wires tidy and away from the X Carriage. I put a bigger lower relief at the heat block and widened the race. I did this to all MS-Stock and E3Dv6 bases. I test printed a base and it gives a lot more clearance for your hot end wires while maintaining the strength.
Also modified it to use a 20mm socket heat cap screw for the long thru screw in the front of the base. (It seems it's easier to get at a hardware store)


2/12/2018
6PM Central- Added wire race for hot end wires on the side of TEVO bases
4PM Central- TEVO base files uploaded.

Took the Tevo base files down temporarily. I forgot the fan holes. I am so sorry.

TEVO Tornado mounts are up. I have not seen a "Make" yet. Let me know how it fits.

E3Dv6 base with BL-Touch is uploaded.


2/10/2018
TEVO Tornado mount is done. Waiting on results from Beta testers before I post the STL files.

BL-Touch Base for Micro Swiss and Stock hot end uploaded.


This is an example of slicing and minimal supports in Cura for the bases. https://youtu.be/UtINRbHRHbE


2/8/2018
Fitting is done for E3Dv6. STL files are up. Will post the screws you'll need in notes. All are 3mm. Let me know how you like it.


I also renamed all the files with prefixes to show what fits with what.
MS-Stock prefix parts are for MicroSwiss or Stock Hotend.
E3Dv6 prefix parts are for E3dv6 Hotend.
Each similar prefix parts are interchangeable.


When mounting your E3Dv6 hot end make sure you mount the longer portion of the heat block forward. This keeps the heatsink cooling air from flowing over heat block and reducing the temp.


2/8/2018
Test printing of E3Dv6 base coming out better than expected. I purchased a V6 clone from TH3D and a CR10 metal base plate from Tiny Machines to use as my reference for installation tests. Some pics in upper pic area or in comments. Will release STL files when tests are done.
2/7/2018
Test printing the E3Dv6 Petsfang for fitment/ mounting and clearance. I'll keep you posted.


2/1/2018
I am working on base mounts for E3dv6 & Tevo Tornado. My main objective in my design besides the exceptional directional air flow, is to make everything very easy to print and mount (even for the novice). I design fillets, angles and radii to allow for printing with no or very minimal supports. Please bear with me on the E3dv6 and Tornado mounts as I have ordered the E3Dv6 and a CR10 X carriage replacement back to make sure my design works flawlessly with them.
Thanks, Dave

2/1/2018
I don't want to toot my own horn but I'm really liking this design. Check out the reflections in the layers. That was 2 layers over 20% Infill. 1st layer bridging was flawless.
https://youtu.be/4Wmnu5MWhEY

1/31/2018
Working on an E3d v6 mount and a Tevo Tornado.

1/29/2018 Update
Slaterbbx has installed this fan and is loving it. He made some great suggestions for changes which I incorporated in the new STL files with a prefix of 1-29. I have made no alterations that would affect the way these parts would fit with the original STL files. I have just given improved options. If you print any of these they will fit with the original files.
Here are some special settings that help print these with minimal supports as I originally designed. These settings are in CURA 3.1

Special for BASE printing
Generate support – yes
Support – EVERYWHERE
Support Overhang angle – 80%
Support Pattern – Zig Zag
Support Density – 20%

Special for DUCT Printing
Generate support – yes
Support Placement – TOUCHING BUILDPLATE
Support Overhang angle – 80%
Support Pattern – Zig Zag
Support Density – 20%
If you are using any other slicer adjust accordingly.

1/26/2018
Added Petsfang Duct for stock radial fan. It will not be the velocity of the 5015 but will let you take advantage of the superior directional airflow this duct offers with the stock radial fan. I had someone ask for it, so here it is.

1/25/2018
Added base STL without the EZABL mount.

I have heard some of you don't like the 5015 because you can't control the fan speed. The windings in many of the 5015's don't like the PWM signal that is used to control the fan speed. PWM sends On and Off pulses to your fan. The length of these pulses cause the fan speed to change. To get around this you can wire in a 16v 220mf capacitor (I use these a lot of these in RC airplanes as voltage glitch busters and get them from Digikey) Solder the capacitor in parallel with the power. Capacitors have polarity so you will damage the cap and or your board if you wire it backwards. Caps have a polarity strip showing leg polarity on the side of the cap body. Wire negative to negative wire of your fan and positive to positive. I can get my cap to bleed down enough voltage that there is barely any air coming from my duct. It shows 1% on my CR10 display. Do not solder a cap in your system if you are not familiar with electronics. Be aware that caps have long legs and will have to be insulated clear up to the capacitor base to keep them from shorting out to the CR10 base or it's other leg. You do this at your own risk. It is 12v DC current.

1/22/2018
Did some bridging tests with this new duct. Test spanned 5mm x 200mm longest with no support on both X and Y axis. The duct cooled the filament allowing 200mm bridging with not one extrusion loss.
See test at:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2766559

1/20/2018
Installed my EZABL today with this duct. Took dimensions from my original Fusion design and used X-offset +48: Y-offset -2. It worked PERFECT! Love this duct blower and the EZABL.

1/16/2018
My last design worked well for what I was printing but an engineer friend saw it and gave me reasons to maximize the design. My buddy designs large commercial HVAC systems gave me a crash course on radial fans, static pressure, ductwork and outlets and why my original fang ducts weren’t utilizing the flow to cool the filament. Based on his info I created a design to maximize the airflow to the tip of the Micro Swiss hot end. Based on the 4.2 CFM of the 5015 fan I designed a large main duct for static pressure which reduces to 2 small rectangular outlets to convert the static pressure to directional velocity. There is a small baffle inside one duct to reduce the flow to that side which puts the turbulence just off the center of the nozzle tip. The duct can be adjusted up and down 1.5 mm to direct flow to the tip. It actually works incredibly well. The Youtube video is not real focused but you can see the airflow is right on the tip and drops off 2mm below and 2mm above the nozzle outlet. I’m going to try this with PETG to see if the bridging stays firm. I’m pretty happy with it. It should work with the stock hot end as well.
You can see in the video it pulls the paper just to the side of the tip and doesn't pick up the flow till 2mm from the tip.
https://youtu.be/p75VZrbXfDk

1/18/2018
Printed my first PETG ever.
Printed with this fang and layers and bridging worked great. Pic above in group. It is the white Hatchbox PETG.
245 degrees hot end and 70 bed temp.
Extended piece on the top of fang is for cable management.

1/19/2018
Here is a video showing my z rail bracket and the cable management extension on the duct/fang. https://youtu.be/C74mP3TJIf4

My first PETG print with this new ductwork style cooler.
https://youtu.be/69pqT8fkNb8

Print Settings

Printer:

CR10

Resolution:

.2

Infill:

20%


Notes:

Print Speed - 50
Travel Speed -100
Bed - 80
Micro Swiss - 245
Support - Bed Only
Flow - Raised to 105% with Octoprint when I saw fill was printing poorly. Could add it with slicer.
Fan - 100% after first layer
Z hop - .2mm
Filament - Hatchbox PETG White

You'll need to replace the short 3mm stock front screw with a 3mm x 20mm socket head screw.


Re-use one of your short 3mm screws from stock fan base if you are using the Stock Fan Duct..


5015 fan screws are 6x32 Nylon with nuts 1 inch long.
**** MS-Stock bases downloaded after 2-13-2018 use a 3 x 20mm Socket Head Cap Screw. (Seems it's readily available at the hardware store)

To mount the duct to the base I used #2 x1/2 inch socket head coarse cap screws because they have a wide base around the shaft that holds the duct extra secure. I’ve seen mounts with #2x1/2” brass Phillips wood screws, I’ve seen mounts with #2x1/2” sheet metal screws. If you find the head is to small to hold your base secure you may need to add a washer.
You can use 3mm screws as well. I just use #2.


For those of you in Europe or other areas on the globe.
A #2 screw in the US is the real close to a 2mm screw in other parts of the planet.


--- FUN FACT---
for those of you installing the Petsfang on a Tevo Tornado. The 4 small screws holding the stock blower to the box are 2mm cap screws. With small washers they hold the fan incredibly secure.

Custom Probe XY Offsets
X Y
MS-STOCK EZABL.............X.....+54.................Y......-8
MS-STOCK BLTOUCH........X......-42................Y......-5
E3Dv6 EZABL......................X.....+49................Y.....+4
E3Dv6 BL-TOUCH...............X......-42................Y.....+4
TEVO EZABL.......................X.....+49................Y......-3
TEVO BL-TOUCH................X......-42................Y.....-7
CNC EZABL.........................X......-42................Y......0
CNC BL-TOUCH...................X.....-42................Y....+3

Since none of this mount touches the hot or cooling end of the Micro Swiss or stock hot end you could print this with PLA. I wanted to try PETG so my final duct is printed with white PETG.




Because I’m limited to the characters displayed in the FILES SECTION, I have used a naming convention that displays Hot End and Printer.
If the file has these references within the file name displayed, they will fit the following printers and hot ends.

Here is a reference of those names


MS_Stock = Micro Swiss Hot end or Stock CR10 hot end on a CR10 printer.


TEVO_Torn = Stock Tornado Hot End on a Tornado printer.


E3Dv6_ = Standard E3D version 6 hot end BASE and DUCT. These will fit CR10 and TEVO Tornado printers.

VOLCANO_ = E3D Volcano version BASE and DUCT. These will fit CR10 and TEVO Tornado printers.


The above printed bases will need a cap to hold the nozzle in place. You can print a generic cap if you are using the stock E3Dv6 or Volcano 30mm fan.
If you want more Hot End, heat sink, cooling you can print the 40mm fan cap. Both caps will fit either hot end.


E3Dv6_CNC = Combination Duct and ABL mount for the “proprietary” Aluminum CNC Mount available on Ebay or other sites.

VOLCANO_CNC = Combination Duct and ABL mount for the “proprietary” Aluminum CNC Mount available on Ebay or other sites.


TEVO_Tarntula_Mount = Mount for the STOCK Hot end for the TEVO Tarantula using the “Tevo Tarantula Modular X Car Basic, e3d 2x” printed carriage.


STRAIN_ = These will be a wire strain bracket that will fit any of the ducts.


Generic = No Auto Bed Leveling mount

BLT_ = BL Touch Auto Bedleveling mounting point. Offsets are in notes.

EZABL_ = TH3D ABL auto Bedleveling mounting point Offsets are in notes.

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Hi there,
Is it possible to have the ABL part on the left side instead of the right?

Thanks

Looks Great ,Love the design.Haven't tested yet,but printed a second one for my other cr10.Great Job to all involved..

Hi,

I have a Tevo Tornado and you made a great design what I'd like to try-out.
Tevo is stock hotend stock fan on it. I gonnah use meshleveling so I will install a probe for that.

I printed the TEVO_TornBaseEZABL_3.26
And for installing a 5015 fan on top do I have to use the

"3mm5015SmoothEZPrntDuct4.11"
or
"3mm5015EZPrintDuct4.18" ??

thnx in advance

Rudi

How do you print this without support on the inside of the tubes? Some layers are just printed in the air.

Hasenpups, Turn your line widths up to .4 and set your overhang angle to 80 degrees. I've printed almost 70 of these now in PLA, Petg. Stock CR10 hot end, Stock Tevo hot end, Micro Swiss hot end and with Cura Slicer and S3d slicer. Every combination I have. Never had one fail.

Need some help guys. Ive done my research and concluded that I dont want the 5015 fan just yet because im no soldering expert and I would like to be able to adjust the fanspeed. Also in order to avoid getting these kind of problems I read through the comments section and double checked if I had the right parts.

  • MS_STOCK_BASE_EZABL
  • StockfanCR10_TEVOductEzprint
  • CR10_Wirestrain_EZprint_duct

Now, I'm VERY frustrated after installing the whole thing and finding out this thing seems NOT suitable for a stock fan on my CR10 S4. At least not without printing extra parts which dont seem to be included in the files.

Assuming the most important part is the DUCT it seems I am now stuck with a stock fan that cannot be attached to it. It needs another part to translate the airflow from the stock fan to the topside 'entrance' of the petsfang. Without it, the fang has no/little function. Stuck in this position now:

https://ibb.co/npwj4H

Did I miss something/made a mistake here?

You need to take the fan off the old box and mount it to the top of my duct. Use 2 of the 4 screws holding it to the old base to attach it to my duct. I can see the stock blower fan in the pic still attached to the old base with the screws????

THANK YOU for your quick response! You solved my problem instantly!

I waited with removing the second fan when I failed to see the small gap which 'aims' the air into the Fangduct. All the pics and videos I've seen from others had the 5015 fan with the special angled duct that would aim the air into the holes and I 'knew' the stock fan didnt look like that. MY MISTAKE, VERY VERY stupid.

The Sunon GB1205PHV1-8AY blower fan works without modification and might be quieter also

Printed this just for my ender-2. I was surprised when I found out that ender-2s don't have blowers. So I had to mount it directly to the board.
Anyway.
The right fang is getting a lot of heat from the heating element and it gets softer and warps downwards, grabbing any filament that may "float" or in some cases of over extrusion.
I have attached a picture, but it was taken after I lifted the fang with some pliers, cause it was taken while printing.
Thanks.

PS: I can't really understand the reason for picking up that type or size of screw to connect the fang with the hotend's base. :/

Replay,
I used number #2 because I didn't have much room in the integrated design and really don't understand why people have such a hard time finding them. I don't want to beat a dead horse but they are available at every hardware or big box lumber yard across the planet. Your duct appears to be mounted too low and at a slight skewed angle. The opening of the duct should be just below the insulation which leaves it 1.5-2mm above the surface. As far as the skew try loosing the screws and straightening the duct to keep it parallel to the base plate. I am redoing the bases and the duct for 3mm screws the file should be up once I get all the prototypes printed for fitment. I have an Ender 3 coming to add to my printers. It looks very cool.

Hahah, I am still laughing about the dead horse. :P My go to local shop, where I source most of my weird inquiries, only offers #5 and above.. And for #3 which is kinda considered the minimum, I go to another one. At least for us here, #2 is considered for electronics.
Anyway, I will check the angle, perhaps I positioned it wrong.
I had a lot of bed adhesion issues and the only reason I noticed was cause I was carefully inspecting the first layer application. It was the use of isopropyl alcohol, perhaps its mixed with something.

Thank you very much :)

I know. It's just weird. I now have an assortment of number 2 screws that I just pick up an take picks to prove it's easy. I hope folks don't complain that I used 3mm. Hehe.

Here's some I picked up at Lowes a couple of days ago.

I printed E3D V6 mount but cannot find a suitable screw to mount the cap. I think I am missing something. I use m3 20mm screws but it does not reach to connect with a nut. I have several different size m3s but this is the longest one. How should I mount this?

Emrekoch,
3 x25mm arre ideal. 3X30mm with a couple off washers will work. 3x30 goes in the far left clear through to the back plate.
Dave

Working on figuring out file list.

CR-10S
5015 Fan
Noctua A4x10

Rest is all stock.

My guess:
MS-Stock_Base_generic
3mm5015EZPrintDuct4.18

Yep. You are correct. You'll need a CR10 wirre strain/bowden guide too if you want to use it.

I have a TEVO Tarantula
I would like to print the files for the stock extruder with BLTouch and also will buy in the future a E3D V6.
Which files do i need for the stock extruder with Bltouch and for the E3D V6 with Bltouch
Thanks in advance

I have no mods for the stock Tarantula mount. My parts fit the printed V mount.
Sorry

Hi,
first, thanks a lot for your job, i'm a newbie in 3d.
2/ sorry for my english but i'm french, and i m very bad in english language.
I've got a tevo tornado
hot end GENA V1
can you tell me if it's good with this hot end ?
merci beaucoup

Viens donc dans le groupe tevo tornado france sur Facebook, tu auras peut être plus de chance ! ;)

I'm sorry I'm not familiar with it.

Any news about the chimera/cyclops design for the tornado?

Gettting close. Got sidetracked last few days.

wow looks nice :)

Hi,

I've printed the files needed to mount the E3D v6 hotend with EZABL but not sure what nuts/screws to use to mount the 40mm fan/hotend to the base. The hex nut holes in the back are bigger than the m3 listing on the Thing Detals page. The M3 nylon nuts I have just spin freely. is it M4?

Thanks,

I used the M3 nyloc. Locking nuts. They are a little bit bigger.

Hi,

Sorry; my phone auto-corrected that. I do use the Nylock nuts and they spin in the base that I have. Tried printing twice and get the same each time.

Thank goodness someone asked. I was just about to ask the exact same thing.

This looks like a fantastic design. I just can't figure out what files I need. I have:

  • Ender 2
  • Stock fan
  • 5015 fan
  • TH3D EZABL
    I think I need to print the MS_stock_base_EZABL but what do I need for the 5015 fan. The comments mention an EZ_duct_5015 but I can't see any file like that. Is it the 5015_cr10_TevoDuctEZPrint?

Those are the correct files. I think I just renamed the EZprint duct with a 5015 in front so people can see it. Not enough characters showing.
Dave

I assume this will be the same procedure for Ender3 as it is pretty much the same printer as CR10 but smaller bed?

I had a thought about the bottom of this design that might increase print visibility without impacting airflow, or interior volume if I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing in my finished print.

It looks like there's dead space (filled in, and walled off) at the front center of the fang (as seen looking at the printer). It looks like that part could be carved away without impacting interior volume, or outlet size, while allowing for a bit more visibility of the printed part between the fangs. It doesn't look like much more than a 45-50 degree angle, which should print perfectly well with a stock TEVO Tornado or CR-10. (And, if the slicer think's its necessary, supports could certainly ensure that.)

Am I reading things right, or would that have some other effect on the design that I'm not aware of?

There was a large radius in the first several versions of my design. People didn't want it there because their prints where failing. I think it was because they had not followed my directions for overhang angle and supports. They wanted the whole face flat so the entire face would print in the first layer and not worry about the radius. I think I still have that version if you would like to use it.
Dave

Hi deptsel, I'm trying to use a 40mm fan + E3d V6 on my CR-10 and downloaded E3Dv6_EZPrint_Duct4Strain3.24 but it seems too big and has a gap, also there's nothing to attach to, which one should I download and where do I attach the duct? I downloaded the wire strain but I have no idea where it goes. thanks a lot.

BTW. Your duct printed alright but it will print much better and be much stronger if printed flat face down, supports to buildplate only.

Here is another detail of the back.

Lucas your print looks good. The duct screws to the base with #2 or 2mm screws with small washers. 2 of the 2mm screws you can get from the original stock CR10 blower fan or Lowes, Menards etc have #2 x 1/2 small brass countersink head wood screws that work well. If you haave a hobby shop in the area they also carry #2 servo screws that have a small collar that I use. Make sure the duct is secure to the base with at least 2 screws on the left and 1 on the right for triangulation. The wire strin fits around your bowden and just slides onto the dovetail joint on the duct and secures with another #2 screw. Hope these pics help, Dave

Can't seem to figure out which files I need. Could I please have some help? My setup is an e3dv6 hotend with volcano heater block and the EZABL.

Hey!
Ty for your work!
Can someone please put together a set for me?
CR-10s
E3D v6 clone
40mm Noctua
5015 fan
BLTouch

There are far too many files ...
Ty :)

Can I use the stock screws on my CR-10s to install. Thank you.

I have a list of screws on the main page. The short screws from the main box can be reused.

What all do I need to install on the CR-10. I just got mine and want to add this. Right now I want to use the stock fans.
With all the files I am confused on what to print.

I've had some really good results using the EZABLE from TH3D with this more robust mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2600168 I have a theory that perhaps the smaller ring mounts result in more flex of the sensor as the print head moves from test position to test position, but I am wondering how to access the CAD files to make a proper branch modification?

Mount for 18mm Proximity Sensor using stock hotend CR-10

websherpa,
In my initial design, I had originally tried to match the left mount for the EZABL to match TH3d offsets. I also use Tim's ABL on my CR10 and have had .0009 standard deviation with the mount were it is currently. I did a lot of testing with the current position and found that when the base is properly secured I could not get any deflection from the EZabl mount. As you can see in pic #1 the position of the mount you reference intersects the design by almost 10mm. In pic #2 I show how far it has to be re positioned just to clear the duct not to mention having to remove material to the back plate portion of the mount to allow for the screws. I really don't want to confuse the people that already use the base with the abl in it's current position. With over 7000 downloads in 3 months, that's a lot of folks I don't want to get emails from. Tim has asked me if he wants my offsets added to his Unified firmware and I believe he is going to be doing that to facilitate easier installation. Dave

dpetsel I truly appreciate your quick reply, thank you (CR-10 has a GREAT community)! I think I miscommunicated my request a little and I don't want to be the trigger for 7000 emails, lol.

I was thinking along the lines of

a) beefing up the existing ring and connection to the mount as you already have it (i.e. no need to reposition it). I am in fact just printing out a test modification using TinkerCad to hack in a bit more plastic to the mount you have provided for EZABL, lol., or

b) is there a reference to the CAD files for the existing mounts to allow for custom branches to the existing design?

However, your reference to your testing and standard deviation do give me a little more confidence in the existing mount design.

Thank you to you and team for all your work on this. I recently upgraded my hotend throat and nozzle and figured it was time to take the leap to "fang" as my OEM fan deflector is riding way too close to the prints now.

Any chance you can do some EZABL sensor versions at 12.5mm aswell please? Trying to do my own inductive sensor setup and it's 12mm rather than the 18mm the EZABL uses.

I have a sleeve that you can glue inside the mount opening converting it to 12. It will have the same offsets.
Dave

Does this require me to buy anything to install on my CR-10s?

Nope, It is open source. Tips are always appreciated though. Good luck with it. I just uploaded the curved duct.
Dave

I printed this and it works great. You are to be congratulated on your design. You have spent a lot of time on this. Tip sent.

I have a TEVO Tarantula
I would like to print the files for the stock extruder with BLTouch and also will buy in the future a E3D V6.
Which files do i need for the stock extruder with Bltouch and for the E3D V6 with Bltouch
Thanks in advance
Marnix

All I can find locally is a 220uf 35v capacitor no 50v. Would 35v be enough or should look to order the 50v?
Thanks.

I had the same issue with pwm on the blower fan. Tried installing various capacitors and it made no difference; if I had fan power any less than 100% it wouldn't spin. Turns out I needed to change a setting in the Marlin firmware; enable "def FAN_SOFT_PWM" in the Configuration.h file. This fixed it and it works perfectly now without a capacitor at whatever speed I set it at.

Great info Jigsawed!
I was not aware of this extra feature in the firmware. I instantly reloaded the firmware with this definition an find the results are exactly as you have stated. I will include a screenshot of some config info for future reference.
Thanks so much!
Dave

3Hookum,
35v will be fine. That's a 20% overhead and well within specs.
Dave

Thank you for everything I now have the best part cooler and a totally controllable fan with your help.

Awesome thank you so very much

Anyone whip up a compatible dial indicator mount yet? One with an 8mm throat?

You sir, rock. Can't wait to try it out.

Hi.

I like this fang, but i want.to change a bit.
Can i please have the edit files for the E3Dv6 Standart for CR10?

If i have a Tevo Tornado ,Cyclops/Chimera and BLTouch would love to use stock fans , will i need to edit the files ?

I am designing a modification for the Cyclops. Because the nozzle will be spaced a lot farther from duct outlets, I would not recommend a stock cooling part fan. There is not enough pressure to reach the nozzle effectively.

wow cool thank you i will wait in suspense :)

complete fang noob here .. sorry

but i have the stock cr10 with two fans, one in the front and one on the right side . that is the one blowing on the nozzle
do i remove this one ,or do i have to buy a new ventilator to use on this fang?
the fan on the right is not fitted for the top assembly afaik

You can use your stockfan in a mod or use a 5015 blower. It's your choice. Parts mix and match.

Comments deleted.

Hey mate, thanks for sharing your design!
I'm a little confused on what files are needed for my printer.
I have the Tevo Tornado, No BLT touch and I want to use the stock fans.

Can you point out what files l would need to make this work.

Thank you

Thank you for that.
Just one more question, with regards to the supports.
I change the settings of the support to 80 degrees but it still shows support material being generated within the duct vein. From what l can see in the STL file, it would be impossible to remove it. Do l need to edit out the support material within the duct vein or do l leave it in there? "Therefor leaving support material within the duct vein?

Thanks again

If you are talking about the 3 baffles in the main plenum they are part of the design.
Dave

If you do support to build plate only and overhang angle at 80 it should not generate nay supports inside the duct. If you have supports you need to remove them. I've sliced with Cura and S3d and have never seen supports within the duct with these settings?
Dave

Thanks Dave,
I missed that key word, "Support from base only" :).... Its all good now, thanks again for sharing the design.

Cheers

Could you create a version for e3d chimera+ / Cyclops+, I would really appreciate that, your design is awesome.

Would you be willing to test a prototype? I have the parts designed but no one with the actual Cyclops parts to test. Let me know. Probably best to use "Message " area for the back and forth.
Dave

Can you please tell me which files to choose for CR-10s everything Stock ?

So I'm using the CR-10S with the stock hot end and cooling fan.

I've printed out:

(1) EZ_Print_DUCT_for_MS_or_TEVO_or_STOCK_hotend_bases__3.3
(2) MS-Stock_Base_generic
(3) CR10_WireStrain_EZPrint_Duct_3.8

I have the base and hot end cooling fan part assembled but I can't figure out how the cooling fan mounts onto the duct. None of the screw holes line up in any way that makes sense.

Any hints?

You printed the EZPrint duct for the 5015 fan. Is this the fan you want to use? It sounds like you want to use the stockfan? A pic of the Stockfan duct file is below.
Dave

Thank you so much! :)

Wow. Spent a lot of time trying to determine the right parts to print and finally thought I got it right. 4.5 hours later I still end up with the wrong part :p

Thanks, will put things back together and print out the correct piece.

Will there be a version in the future where the front is rounded and not the back? This flat front side is incredibly ugly in my opinion.

I thought very hard when I designed this about the aesthetics. Since this is a very radical design change from other ducts and had special engineering constraints, it was important that it can be physically printed. My design philosophy in 3d printing is function, print-ability, maintenance and aesthetics. I want your prints to look beautiful, not the part that prints them.

does this design fit the ender-4?

With a little trimming it should fit the 4. It has the same back plate as the CR10 with extra cut outs for the belt attachment on the sides. Try a base and see. I don't ave an Ender 4 back plate yet.

The design looks really nice. But I'm pulling my hair to figure out if this combination is possible:

Tevo Tarantula printer
Micro Swiss/CR-10 Stock hotend
5015 fan
BLTouch

It kind of looks like the only Tarantula part is for the original Tarantula hotend and the thingirob base carriage. But I'm not entirely sure.

I shouldn't have said it won't work. The Tevo base will fit around the Micro Swiss hot end and cool it adequately. I too use the Micro swiss hot end on my CR10. I want to use it on my Tornado and it will fit.
Dave

I do not have a Micro Swiss mod for the Tarantula. Sorry.

No worries. The search continues. :)

I will probably print this one for the original hotend though. Looks really nice.

Tarek Delbridge, a Proffesional Maker is using it with the stock hot end on his Tranatulas with great success.

Hi,

I am having a problem trying to find locally any #2 or M2 hardware to attach the fan to the body. The smallest I can find locally is M3 or #4 x 1/2". Would it be possible to use something else?

Sorry if this has been asked before. Really love the design of this fang.

Derrick,
I like using the #2 socket head cap screws that are used to hold RC servos in place. They have a built in shoulder and hold the duct perfect. They can be found at any local hobby shops. You can also use #2 wood screws. I have not found a hardware store or big box lumber yard like Home Depot, Lowes or Menards that did not stock them. You may need a couple of #2 washers for some of these screws. I have put a couple of screen shots from Menards and Lowes for reference.

I wish my town still had a hobby shop. I checked four local hardware stores and the smallest was M3 or #4. I'll try the next city over some day and see what I can find.

Thanks,

Hi depsel :)
I really like the idea of putting the BLTouch support directly on the duck like Cappy De model, the standard version transmits a lot vibrations to the BLT and it's very annoying..
So it's possible to create the same design but for the e3dv6?

Also why not put the system "wire strain" on the model duck for e3dv6?

ShagoY,
The Cappy De BLT support is mounted with screws to the back plate. It relies on the screw to the back plate and the screw from the CNC mount for triangulation. The standard E3Dv6 BLT base should be as secure as the back plate itself if you mounted both screws to it tightly. maybe your back plate itself is vibrating. The wire strain was included in the duct design originally several versions ago. The majority of people did not want it on the duct itself so I made it a modular part. It too with the dovetail joint, is very secure to the duct. The correct base for the E3Dv6 is below.

Thank dpetsel for your reply :)

BTW any update for a version made for the E3D Titan Aero?

I'm currently using the popular fang duct with the OEM EZABL, which mounts to the left side, with the stock nozzle assembly. Which files do I need to print to use this system?

My stock base with EZABL mounts it to the right side. The offsets are in the notes. The file you need is below.

Maybe I am just super dumb, but what size screws do we use for the holes that hold the fang part on the MS Stock base? #2 1/2in?

https://imgur.com/a/FrOba

And how do we get the 5015 fan connected to power? Is there a tutorial video out there for that? Thanks!

Yes #2 x 1/2 or 2mm x 10mm. 5015 fan gets wired in place of the stock fan. Cut the wires and solder or use a connector to apply power. Keep polarity straight.
Dave

So I have another question. If the 5015 fan is linked to the fan that cools the hotend, it will be blowing full power during the first layer. This is causing me adhesion issues, any suggestions?

It mounts to the fan lead that cools the part, not the fan that cools the hot end. The cooling fan is controlled by the slicer settings and you will want it off for the first layer and come on after the 2nd or 3rd layer. I very rarely run my fan above 30%. It is very efficient.

So you have a picture or diagram of where the cooling fan should be drawing it’s power from so the slicer’s Goode correctly gives it power? I currently just have it leaching from the hotend >.<

I've put a picture of the fan that will be removed and power spliced to the new 5015 part cooling fan. It is outlined in yellow and greyed out.

Huh... mine doesn’t have that fan... I’ll figure it out, thanks for all your help!

Thanks for the reply! I can't wait to get this on my Ender-2 I put together last night :D

Bonjour, bravo super travail !
J'ai une Tevo Tornado sur laquelle je désire mettre :

  • 1 E3D v6 ( que j'ai reçu l'original je précise au cas ou il y aurait une différence pour les pièces )
  • 1 3D-Touch ( que j’attends )
    Je suis en train d'imprimer votre modèle : E3Dv6_CNC_Generic_duct_Cappy_De ( j'espère ne pas m’être trompé ). Je suis à 50 % et tout est parfait !
    Laquelle ou quelles pièces dois-je imprimer pour fixer ce modèle à la Tornado ? Merci

Trduction Google. I speak only French sorry lol :
Hello, congratulations super work!
I have a Torno Tornado on which I wish to put:

  • 1 E3D v6 (that I received the original I specify in case there would be a difference for the parts)
  • 1 3D-Touch (that I'm waiting for)
    I am trying to print your model: E3Dv6_CNC_Generic_duct_Cappy_De (I hope I am not mistaken). I am at 50% and everything is perfect!
    Which one or which parts do I need to print to fix this model to the Tornado? Thank you

The CNC part is for the proprietary aluminum mount sold on Ebay. Is that the mount you have for the E3Dv6? If you don't have that part you need the files I put below. Sorry this is Google Translate.
Dave

La partie CNC est pour le support en aluminium propriétaire vendu sur Ebay. Est-ce la monture que vous avez pour l'E3Dv6? Si vous n'avez pas cette partie, vous avez besoin des fichiers ci-dessous. Désolé c'est Google Translate.
Dave

Thank you for this quick response !
If the model seen on Ebay marked CR10 is valid for the tornado I will buy it.
I seem to have found a model that would be better: E3Dv6_CNC_BL_Touch_Cappy_De_mod_v2-19 with! D touch incorporated.
Congratulations for the work done!
Thank you for all this valuable information

Yes. The aluminum CNC mount on Ebay does fit the Tornado and CR10. The duct you have selected for that mount is correct.

So I tried to assemble it, but something looks a bit wrong. I printed the stock base and combined it with the EZ printable one. It's a very tight fit and to me it looks like the fan for the heat-sink seems too high, shouldn't the cut-out part on the bottom of the base be wrapping just below the heatsink around the tubes there? Also the fang is a bit too high I think, right?

From what I see in the picture your setup looks perfect. Duct outlets should just clear the insulation on your hot end, and the hot end heat sink looks perfectly positioned within the base. At least it looks good from your picture.

It's ever so slightly skewed, looking at the picture the right outlet is just a bit higher than the left. This all is caused by the position of the screws in my Ender base on which the mount attaches I think, those are not perfectly square. But that right one still looks just low enough to you? To me it looked like the hotend itself was being cooled and not the plastic underneath. But if it's this close, I might as well give it a try. :) Thanks for the fast respons!

Take the nozzle clear down to the build plate and make sure the bottom of the ducts clear the build plate by about +-2mm from the buildplate to clear your print.

It does by about 3. Can't get it lower, but I'll test a bit to see if it works.

3 should be fine. I run mine at +2.5

Ok, will test it out soon. Thanks a lot for all the support! Not only the product is what counts, top notch!

Great fan, bit chunky, but it's all about its function for me. :) Only problem I had was the confusion caused by the amount of files, maybe a better overview in the about would help, like "This is what you need for the stock parts;", "This when you want to add a 5015 to that;", "This when you have a MicroSwiss; "etc. Great stuff!

A bit chunky means it easy to print. With so many files to choose from it makes it a an exciting journey.

That is totally true and I like it also for that! And yes, haha, it does make it an exciting journey. In my case I did print half of the wrong one, but on the positive side it did show me a few changes I had to make for a better print and the right one came out great. :)

This fan is incredible. It's not just designed with airflow in mind, but also printability. If you look at the model construction in layer format you can see the attention to detail there was to make it printable without supports inside the ducts. Incredible work!

Neoc2003,
Thank you. You are the first one to recognize the entire project goals. I appreciate comments like yours.
Dave

Hello I printed the fang and mount for the e3d v6 clone. I get a good first layer but when the fan kicks on the second layer the filament stops extruding but temps do not drop. I turn the fan off and filament flows again . What could be the problem thanks for the help

I could be many things. Send me a pic of your hot end set up with the cooler attached.

Thanks for the quick reply I attached the pics hopefully that helps it prints fine without fan but as soon as fan turns on filament stops Extruding .
Thanks again

I see a couple of things right off. You have no insulation on your heat block and the fan you are using to cool the hot end heat sink fins is too low. So when you kick on the parts cooling fan the combination is cooling down the heat block enough to stop the filament flow. I would insulate the the heat block with a E3D silicone sock and use the stock fan for cooling the heat sink fins. It looks like you have the wrong parts on as well. It appears you took a 40mm fan cap and cut it off. You also have a very old version of the E3Dv6 mount that bolts to the back plate. The latest version has a lot more cooling flow for the heat sink.
Dave

Ok thank you can you point me to the right files to print .

John,
The base file is below. I'm not sure I have a cap that will fit that fan. You can use the small cap below with the stock fan that clips on the clone heat sink or use the 40mm cap that bolts to the base and the fan screws on to the cap with walls to keep the flow away from your heat block. You will have to get a 40mm fan to fit it. Stock CR10 and Tevo hot end cooling fans are 40mm.
Dave

I did not see this mentioned before, but Simplify3D seems to hang while slicing the fang if the "Internal Thin wall type" is set to anything else than "Perimeters only".
I suppose that this is due to the walls of the fang being very thin in some areas. For me, this was a bit of a problem as there are some underextruded zones which resulted in some gaps on the walls.

Would it hurt to have a thicker wall on the duct?

Also, it would help a lot with the printing orientation if the short wing of the 5015 fan would be on the same side as the long vertical one.

I've forgotten to add supports and the short wing did not come very well. :D

One more question: I am trying to mount a Volcano and BLTouch. The BLTouch base seems to be for the standard E3D hot end not Volcano. Can you please let me know what spacers should I use for the BLTouch to get it in line with the Vocano?

Other than all of the above, really really nice design.

Thank you!

  1. I have printed over 50 of these ducts without fail in both S3D and CURA. There are several S3D and CURA profiles on the Facebook groups that will help you be successful when printing the duct or any similar prototype.
  2. If you increase the duct thickness you change the internal volume and will change the static pressure calculations.
  3. I designed the 5015 fan mounts on 2 separate planes to promote triangulation and strengthen the mounting to hold the fan extra secure. If the mounting points were on the same plane you would get tremendous vibration from the fan.
  4. There is a base specifically for the Volcano.

Thank you very much for your fast reply.

It does make a lot of sense what you are saying about the inside volume. Whenever you'll have some spare time, please do send me the links you mentioned in our previous messages. I am sure I will learn a lot from them.

Thank you for pointing me to the right volcano+bltouch base. I don't understand how I missed it and I apologize for wasting your time for this.

What orientation is everyone printing the EZDuct in? I’m trying to print it lying down but my nozzle is hitting the supports Cura generates and eventually knocks the off the bed. I know I have a tramming and unlevel bed problem (have a dial indicator on the way) but just wondering if I should be printing it upright like the model imports or lying down.

I have heard of people printing it upright but for strength I designed it to print from the front flat face down. Are you printing with supports from the buildplate only? I have printed this about 30 times and have not had a problem and now with the Ezprint duct it has been a breeze. I'm not sure what I can tell you. Try slowing down the print a lot maybe it won't dislodge the supports? You can also ask the CR10 or Tevo Facebook pages. The duct is being printed by many people. Maybe they would have a suggestion?
Dave

do you have a tarantula mount for the e3dv6 in the works? i have the e3d on the way to me now and i'd love to get all the parts printed that i'm going to need to mount it before it gets here. a mashup of your e3d generic mount and the wedge shaped tarantula mount that you uploaded a couple days ago maybe?

Terry,
Here is a shortcut to the Folder with the E3Dv6 Tarantula files. I'm not going to post them on thingiverse till someone prints them and confirms they will fit. For the 40mm fan cap to the base you'll need 2) 3mm x 20mm cap head screws and nuts. Put them in tight to hold the Hot End secure.
Here is the folder with the 4 files.
1 base, 1 40mm fan CAP, 1 Duct and 1 wire strain.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bUWe2zvRuCkpkxBcz_5Z4Gztssqy4BHU

Print them up and let me know if they fit well. I think they will.
Dave

thanks dave! i'll get started printing on this in the morning. what x carriage did you design this to fit?

Terry,
Not sure of the name but it is the attached pic mod. It is a popular one that Tarek Delbridge uses. (Tarek on Facebook Tarantula Group)

perfect, thanks! parts are printing now.

Yes. I should be done with that E3D mount soon.

awesome, i can't wait! which x carriage is it meant to work with, or are you making that yourself too?

Hi, do you by chance have one of these that will work on the Tevo Tarantula stock carrage and hotend as well as the SN04 auto bed sensor?

I am sorry Lee I do not have one for that.

Is that center post in the MS Stock mount necessary? I just busted it out trying to remove the supports and I really don't want to print it again :P

You can do without it.

Looking for a combination of this awesome design for the cr-10s stock hotend and the EZabl mount. Stock fan or a 50 no biggy on the fan.
Is the last combo correct except no EZabl mount?
Thanks for sharing all the hard work you've put in this beast looking forward to some real part cooling.

If it has MS Stock Base in the name it will fit a CR10 with Micro Swiss or stock hot end. Ezduct for stock fan or 5015 is duct u need.

Ya it's the MS, thanks for the speedy reply, I'll be sure to post the make when its done.
Thanks again for your incredible work on this.

Hi Dave, which files I should print if I have E3Dv6 + EZABL + 40mm Fan, sorry, I just want to make sure I choice the right part for CR10
Thank you.

Any file with E3Dv6_ in the name will fit the CR10.

Thanks Dave for your quick response, can you please advise, which set I should use for EZBAL
Set1:
E3Dv6_EZPrint_Duct4Strain3.24
E3Dv6VOLCANO_40mm_FAN_CAP_2.28
E3Dv6
VOLCANO_BASE_W-EZABL_2.28
E3Dv6orVolcanoWireStrain3.23

Set2:
E3Dv6_CNC_WITH_EZABL_duct_Cappy_De_V6
E3Dv6VOLCANO_40mm_FAN_CAP_2.28
E3Dv6
VOLCANO_BASE_Generic_2.28
E3Dv6orVolcanoWireStrain3.23

Also is that the correct combination?
Thanks again

Set 1 would be correct.

Do not use any files with CNC_ in the name. They are for a proprietary aluminum mount sold on Ebay by another member that cuts the mounts.

Thanks Dave, I hope you'll do it very soon because I can not print now

Smilzomv,
You hope I'll do what very soon?
Dave

hello, I read the review in the comments where they solved the problem with a 20mfd 16vcapacitor, I found only standard capacitors that are from 22mfd 16v. as soon as I start everything I know the result and add some photos.
I hope that in the meantime he will reply to the person who made the change to which I asked for the photograph of the transformation

Not MFD but uF. A 110 or 220 uf 36volt would be acceptable.

Hi, I read this comment with these features for the condenser
I was wrong to write ufd with mfd sorry

{{{"I also used a 20uFd / 16v capacitor across the leads as you suggested and it gives me 15%-100% range on the fan speed on my CR-10S."
Without capacitor i can only put 100% (ref B01N9ZMRUR), and you ?}}}

Hi, I read this comment with these features for the condenser
I was wrong to write ufd with mfd sorry

{{{"I also used a 20uFd / 16v capacitor across the leads as you suggested and it gives me 15%-100% range on the fan speed on my CR-10S."
Without capacitor i can only put 100% (ref B01N9ZMRUR), and you ?}}}

I bought 22uf 16v, could I have problems with this capacitor?

Please, for the love of god, just make everything M3. Everyone who builds or mods printers has (or should have) a wide selection of M3, M4, and M5 in their toolbox. Great design otherwise though.

Just be glad I did't use M1 or M1.5. I use them all the time in prototyping.
Tongue in cheek......
Dave

hi, I printed this edit for cr10s with microswiss. I replaced the cooling fan with a 5015 but I do not know because it only works when it is 100% power, if it is 99% or less, the fan does not rotate

Some of the 5015's will need a capacitor. There is some info in the comments somewhere with info and specs. I'll attach a little schematic.
Dave

sorry but I can not apree the file, could you put an image? thank you

Sorry about that here is a jpg.

thank you very much for the quick help. I tried the 2 capacitors, the result is that the small 22mf 16v can modulate the speed from 20/100%. the condenser that you recommended me (220mf 50v) instead is perfect and manages to modulate all percentages 0/100%. I was not able to weld the 3 ends correctly and I used material that I had available, it is not nice but it is functional.

Thank you so much for the speed, so the capacitor I bought like the one the user was talking about in the comment is not right?
22uf 16v

He had good luck with it. I use a 220uf. Try it out and see if you get the change in speed of the 5015.

I think I mixed up the parts a bit.
Is there an E3D Volcano + BL Touch base?

So, basically, I need to mount the following: Volcano Hotend, BLTouch sensor, 40mm heatsink cooling fan and 5015 fan duct for part cooling.

I wish there was a more detailed picture of how it looks in the mentioned configuration.
My mount shows that the ducts are too high and blowing air directly to the nozzle.

I need a little bit of help on selecting the right parts from the long list.

I am trying to select the parts to print for my CR-10S and I am using the following parts:

  • E3Dv6_BASE_BLTouch_2.28.stl
  • E3Dv6__VOLCANO_40mm_FAN_CAP_2.28.stl
  • E3Dv6_EZPrint_Duct4Strain3.24.stl

The fang does not seem to match any screw holes on neither the base nor the fan cap.
Did I select the wrong parts?

Thank you

MMMGGG,
I brought both STL files up and they look fine and holes line up. Not sure what your having problem with from your pictures. They are not telling me anything. I see in the last PNG file there is a base in the upper part of the screen that has the holes. Please check your slicer. The files are correct and the files you are using are the correct files for the E3Dv6 hotend.
Maybe I'm missing something in your explanation?
Dave

here is a xray view
If I raise the fang to align its holes with the holes of the base, the airducts are to high up blowing into the heating block.
Trying to use a Volcano.

Hi David,
thank you for getting back to me so fast.
I imported the STL files in Sketchup trying to do a "virtual" test.
I might be missing something. I will print them and check them out.
Are the files I selected the right ones for the CR-10S?

Yes those are the right parts. Bring them up individually in your slicer and rotate them to verify the holes. I brought them up in CURA and S3D and they looked fine.
Dave

I just have to say this: one of the great things about your design are the openings for the air blown on the heat sink ensuring a clean path for ventilation. Really really well designed. I think it also helps with the noise made by this fan.

Can you please let me know if this position is correct?
It looks to me like the air will hit the nozzle.

Mmmggg,
It looks like you are using the V6 duct with the Volcano hot end. Download the Volcano duct and it will be correct.

THANK YOU!!!
That was the problem.
So, the right file for the volcano duct is: "Volcano_EZPrint_Duct4Strain3.24.stl"

Really nice work, I will add some feedback, the fasteners needed for attaching the duct to the core are a bit of a mystery and might be hard for people to deduce even in the U.S. maybe you can add more info into the body of the thing details. #2 and #3 are pretty uncommon at a hardware store, and a socket head version is unlikely. It seems like you are specifically calling for 'servo mounting screws', which can be ordered in socket heads (although I imagine phillips would work) and likely the dubro version can be found at a local hobby shop. I don't see a length specified, I'm assuming shorter 5/16" is preferred? Is there a preference of #2 over #3 or vise versa?

Goopyplastic,
I appreciate your feedback. I make suggestions based on my original design and ability to get the parts locally. I live in a small town with 3 hardware stores and a Lowes. I was able to get a 3mm X 20mm cap screw at all of them and the #2 screws are very common in woodworking and sheet metal fabrication. My #2 socket head cap screws were purchased at a local hobby shop were the keep a large assortment in stock. The screws I recommend are just that a recommendation. I know people will have other screws that may work that are outside of my specific part range. Since this has now been downloaded 4500 times I've had to deal with the global metric system as well ,and have found most people are just ordering screws online. The holes for mounting ideally are #2 or 2mm size but a #3 can be used if you want to drill out the base a bit for a good fit. Length can be 5/16 -9/16 for SAE and 8-12mm Metric.
Sincerely,
Dave

Ich habe den MS-Stock_or_TEVO_Duct_for_STOCK_FAN_strain_mod_3.3.stl gedruckt und das ist teilweise sehr instabil.
Die inneren Wände zum Coldend-Lüfter hin sind nicht nur unterschiedlich dünn, die sind auch etwas zu dünn, die sollten mindestens 1,2mm dick sein und nicht wie jetzt 0,9/1/1 oder so.
Die obere runde Wand ist auch viel zu dünn, das ist praktisch nur eine Lage und die konnte ich ohne Kraftaufwand kaputt drücken.

Ich entschuldige mich, vielleicht habe ich nicht die richtigen Dateien hochgeladen, nachdem ich dieses Problem vor 2 Wochen behoben habe. Die dünnen Wände wurden vor ein paar Mods gepflegt. Ich habe die Dateien erneut hochgeladen, damit Sie die aktuellen Versionen hochladen können. Tut mir leid, wenn die Übersetzung schlecht ist. Ich benutze den Google Übersetzer. Dave

Sorry for writing in German, saw annother comment and thought it would be okay.

No need for you to apologise, thank you for the design!

I ended up redesigning the whole thing based on the idea to make it two-part and copying some bits.
Not because I think your design is bad or because I think I can do it better, just because it provided me with a meaningfull goal to train my noob-level skills in construction.

I wanted to give feedback though to, well, give back the little I can.

I just opened MS_StockOrTevonStockfanDuct3.25.stl.
First thing is, Ideamaker claims now it has 9 non-manifold edges.
And while it is symmetrical now, the inner walls still come out as only two lines for me.

Any chance you could make an E3DV6 version for the tarantula.
Thanks

Gibt es eigentlich einen Grund, warum das 2. Loch für den Lüfter nicht auf der gleichen Ebene liegt wie das obere Loch? Damit könnte man den kompletten Fang doch ohne Support drucken.

Hasenpups,
Mit den Befestigungspunkten für den Lüfter auf 2 verschiedenen Ebenen wird Triangulation eingeführt. Dies hält den Lüfter sehr sicher und reduziert Vibrationen durch Druckrucke. Entschuldigung für die deutsche, ich benutze Google Übersetzer.

Comments deleted.

Would it work to mirror the E3Dv6_CNC_WITH_EZABL_duct_Cappy_De_V6 so as to have the ABL on the right side instead of the left?
The PLA one I printed has started to droop at the tips, due to heat while printing ABS, so reprinting one with ABS.

Sedgster,
I used the left side for for this reason. It allowed me to mount the EZABL to a screwed mounting point (to the back plate) instead of just hanging it off the right side duct which would not be very secure. If you are using an enclosure I don't have to tell you not to use PLA for the high temp settings..... You found out on your own.
Dave

Yes that makes good sense, I was aware of the fitting fixture but is solid enough without it. It's just when a print starts the nozzle crosses the print area which would not happen with ABL on the right. Not a biggy to be fair so will stay left. Just trying to print in ABS but proving tricky. It is my first time with ABS so a good challenge.

Is there a dial indicator attachment for this?

If I could get some drawings /dimensions I could try to make one. No one yet has been able to get me those.

Here is one that works with a fang blade the main issue with using this one is that it utilises the left screw whole as does your mount so I was thinking of trying to effectively merge this onto yours simply aligning the screw hole and merging the objects I was going to experiment tomorrow im no designer.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755516

here is the one I have
http://www.silverlinetools.com/en-GB/Products/Mechanical%20Engineering/Dial%20Gauges/196521

cannot find a dimensions diagram for it but ive messaged them to try and get one.

Creality Cr-10 Dial Indicator Holder OEM Fang Mod

I having trouble getting the right pieces to work. I have a CR-10 with v6 clone and 30mm fan for the v6. Im using the stock cr-10 part cooling fan, which only looks compatible with "MS-Stock _or_TEVO_Duct_for_STOCK_FAN_strain_mod_3.3"

Anyone know exactly which pieces I need?

and any info on the nuts and bolts needed to put it together? (i guess that probably varies since its modular)

There is no duct for the stock parts cooling fan and the E3Dv6. The E3Dv6 is an advanced hot end and really won't work well with the stock part cooling fan. It needs the 5015.

hi which duct do i use for 5015 blower rest everything stock

EZ_Print_DUCT_for_MS_or_TEVO_or_STOCK_hotend_bases__3.3

Hello again,
Your design is great, and it is my favorite fang. I was using the version with the stock hotend but i recently got a genuine E3D V6 and noticed that there is no wire strain relief. I printed it and currently using it with a zip tie attached the side but I really wish that you would add something to make the wires point to the top or something similar to EZ print duct for stock hotend.

I attached a picture. If I don't use a zip tie the cables would fall to the side. I'm using the bltouch version.

E3Dv6_DUCT_NO_Wire_Strain_2.28.stl and
E3Dv6_BASE_BLTouch_2.28.stl

Thank you for the great work!

I'll work on a strain relief for it. I have some issues with height to top rail. I'll try to solve that.
Dave

Thanks. maybe a small clip that holds the cable from the back would work if height is an issue. Petsfang is the most elegant and professional fang design there is on thingiverse!

I highly appreciate your work.
Regards.

Inthub,
I have redesigned the ducts for the E3Dv6 and Volcano to accept dovetail wirestrain. The files are up. Please let me know how they work for you. There will be very minimal interference with the top rail.
I've attached an illustration.
Dave

I installed the new duct with the wire strain, and it is perfect! Thank you.

Inthub,
Wow, That is beautifully clean install.
Dave

For the stock hot end setup, should one of the ducts/fangs be closer to the hot end than the other?

Yes, It is off center by about 1mm.

I so want to print and use this fang. However, I am a little confused as to exactly what files I need to print out. I have stock fans on the hotend and parts cooling and I am using a Micro-Swiss All-Metal hotend. No bed leveling equipment. What files do I need to print to use this?

The MS in the file name = Micro Swiss. So the MS_Stock generic base and the EZPrint duct for MS are the files you need. If you want the wire strain, choose the Tevo or CR10. Whichever you have. You didn't tell me if it was a Tornado or CR10. I'm guessing a CR10.
Dave

So, if I upgrade the parts cooling fan to a 5015 radial fan, do I still need the same files or different ones? Thanks in advance!

Yes, it will fit the base you already installed in place of the stock fan duct. The new duct will be the EZ_Print_Duct 5015.

Great design, thanks for all of your hard work! Do I need the MS_Stock generic base and the EZ_Print_Duct 5015 for the Ender 2? If not, please specify what parts and ALSO what hardware.
Can you give me a link to the 5015 fan (maybe on Amazon USA) you suggest that doesn't need a capacitor?
Thanks!!

Yes. Those are the correct files for the Ender. I have not found a 5015 yet that doesn't need a capacitor

Dave, I do indeed have the CR-10. Thank you so very much for your quick reply.

Any chance of a dual blower version? Same ducting, just a mount for a 2nd blower for more air in hotter climates?

You'll find because of the design it's more than enough air flow. I typically run mine at 20% or less.

What files do I need for the Tornado with 3d touch, 5015 fan and the e3d v6 hotend? and do i need anything else besides the files?

You will also need the cap. You have a choice of the simple cap that allows you to use the stock fan that comes with the E3Dv6 hot end or the 40mm fan Cap that allows you to upgrade to a larger fan for cooling the heeat sink.

E3Dv6_BASE_BLtouch for the base, and EZ_Print_duct_for_MS for the duct, are the files you need and then choose a wire strain to match your machine CR10 or Tornado

David,

Could you look at adding a little mount to the fang to support a Dial Guage for levelling? It could be as simple as a split tube that a dial guage would drop into (Most are 8mm dia) and maybe a small screw just to clamp it. It could be taken on and off quickly just when needed for levelling. There are other designs that fit on the stock shroud of the CR-10 which might also be possible to fit on the petsfang.

For me it would also need to be usable on the BL Touch mount as it's good to do a rough level with a guage if your bed had been disturbed then do a G29 autobed level afterwards.

Here is an example of a snap on mount

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2412647

And here a side mount

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755516

I'd have a go myself but my Cad skills are Zero!

Creality CR-10 Dial Indicator Mount for Bed Level/Tramming
by CallJoe
Creality Cr-10 Dial Indicator Holder OEM Fang Mod

I'm going to need some dimensions of the dial gauge. I can't find any online. Maybe you could sketch the part or find some shop drawings of it.
Dave

Alan,
Can you sketch me an example of how you would adapt my design to allow a dial gauge? I watched the videos and it appears this device is a clips on the front of the stock mount. The duct portion of my design is built extremely light and doesn't lend itself to adding features to it directly. The base is the stout part but I don't see any room to incorporate a dial gauge because every modular part in my design fits tight, clearance wise. I'm having a hard time envisioning a part that could snap on the front of the duct secure enough to hold the dial gauge without damaging the duct itself. Also there id the issue with distance from the nozzle. By the time you get a similar mount set in place your dial gauge is going to be a fare distance from the absolute position of the nozzle. I might be able to combine the BLT and the EzABL mount to allow you to mount the dial in a modified abl 8mm hole. Let me sleep on it.

Dave,

I think you are right about using it on the fang - a bad idea as it would put pressure on the side screws and maybe upset the clearance from the bed.

Perhaps an extention of the BLtouch mount to the left with a moun tlike the EZABL ring would work.

I have not found a drawing for the guage indicator yet but will look. Maybe it's just a crazy idea :)

I think it's do-able. I need the measurements so I can build a prototype dial gauge to see if it will fit.
Dave

Sorry for the late reply Dave. I have been re-thinking this idea and the cheap tyre depth indicators seem to be a neat way to do the levelling. Here is one with a spring to put some tension on the plunger. Probably too large to incoporate onto the Petsfang but I'm sure there will be a way to temporarily mount it on the carriage bracket.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2716167/#comments

In case you find it of interest there is a drawing on this product page

https://www.banggood.com/LCD-Digital-Depth-Gauge-Tyre-Tread-Brake-Shoe-Pad-Wear-0-25mm-1-Inch-p-80378.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

CR-10S LCD Tire Gauge Mount For Bed Leveling
by netox

What is the proper nozzle alignment point for stock hot-end when mounting the duct to the base (referring to the 2mm of vertical play to allow both the microswiss and stock hot end to use the same file). For stock hotend is the duct mounted as high as it can go, or as low as it can go? I seem to have enough clearance either way.

Bring the duct down so it is just clearing the insulation on your heat block. It is adjustable because you may have the stock hot block cotton insulation or the new silicone sock (as I do on my Micro Swiss heat block) which will have you move the duct more downward to have the airflow clear the sock. You end up with the bottom of the duct 1-2mm above the build plate.

What are the offsets for the stock-with-EZABL mount?

In the description, you say:

MS-STOCK EZABL.............X.....+54.................Y......-8

But from eyeballing it, it looks more like X +48 or 49 and Y - 2 or -3

You are correct. The base you have is +48,-3. I had updated the base 3.3.2018 because of the large nuts on the EZABL interfering with the X carriage mods for the pulley people are using. The new offsets are correct for the new file but I forgot in the file dump to include that file. I have updated it. If you don't have the X carriage mods you can use the file you downloaded with no problems with the offsets above. If you want to print the current file it has been uploaded. Sorry about that. I'm working on so many mods it was overlooked.
Thanks
Dave

Hey Dave. Absolutely no need for apologies.

I'll use +48,-3 now and will do some tests with this setup.

I don't have any, but I'm curious -- which X carriage mods are you referring to?

Ken,
Some people are having an issue with the end pulley on the X axis not sitting centered on the extrusion. There is an X pulley tensioner which sits 2mm outside of the extrusion right in the way of my original position of the ABL mount. Some guys shim their pulley out which puts it in an even worse position. I decided to just move the mount away from the extrusion enough to clear any current or future mods to that end of the rail.

There are a million parts here, what do I need for the stock CR-10?

This is one amazing piece of work!

I posted this on Reddit\CR-10 group and have had a lot of positive response.
https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/84n7y6/finally_a_fang_designed_with_an_airflow_engineers/

One thing I noticed was there was some air leak around the exit nozzle of the fan where it pushed into the Fang. May have been a screwy print as my old Fang didn't blow, it sucked, LOL. So I got a PETG print of this that needed a LOT of cleanup. My machine, not your design.

I fixed the air leak with some 3/16" (4.76mm) foam weatherstripping around all sides of the Fang's hole, jammed the fan into it, and now it doesn't leak at all.

I also used a 20uFd / 16v capacitor across the leads as you suggested and it gives me 15%-100% range on the fan speed on my CR-10S.

Fantastic.

Thanks again for this fine work!

PuterPro

Hi PP,

"I also used a 20uFd / 16v capacitor across the leads as you suggested and it gives me 15%-100% range on the fan speed on my CR-10S."
Without capacitor i can only put 100% (ref B01N9ZMRUR), and you ?

hi, could you please kindly show a picture of the electrical modification and explain the components you used.
I installed this 5015 fan but it works only 100%.
Many thanks

Great to hear Puter.
Shoot a pic of your "Make" when you have time and make a reference to the fan electrical mod you did with the capacitor.
I can't believe so many people are using other designs and no one has really addressed the speed issue with the fans. Guess everyone just runs them at 100%. You'll find for pulling out real fine details in your print you may run it at a much lower speed. I really haven't run it above 80% yet. Thanks for all your kind words.
Well....
Now go get your print on.
Dave

Very nice, I'm going to try this out on my stock CR-10. Any chance there will be a version made for the E3D Titan Aero?

Not yet but have been thinking about it.

I want to use it on my Ender 2. I use a 40x40x20 mm fan for the hotend, a 5015 fan for part cooling and the ezabl sensor. Is it enough if I only print this file? -> E3Dv6_CNC_WITH_EZABL_duct_C...

So to be clear. You have the aluminum CNC mount and want the parts that go with it?

I have the normal ender with no special mount. I want to use the ezabl sensor, a 5015 fan and a 40x40x20mm fan.

Use the CR10 parts. They will fit the back plate perfectly.

I know that I need the CR10 parts. What parts do I need from the list? I´m confused with the labels. Would be nice if you could write the part name.

If it has MSStock in the name it will work on your Ender.

But I use a e3dv6 hotend, does this fit then?

Any file with E3Dv6_ in the name will work except for the CNC E3Dv6 which require the aluminum CNC mount.

Comments deleted.

I would like to see a mount for a dial gauge (9mm throat). I use one to quickly and accurately level my bed after changes. It would be nice to have a little larger hole and a compression latch. Slide in gauge, close latch to grip it, level, unlatch, remove. Oh, and a ziptie tie down mount to secure all the wires.

I'll second that!

There already is a zip tie, wire strain guide that has a dovetail to secure it to the duct. You'll have to give me some info and pics of the dial gauge mount. Not sure if I can fit it. Send them to me in the Messages area as a PM. This area is getting too cluttered.
Thanks
Dave

Installed the lastest verison on my CR10 Stick + BL + New strain relief - works great - thank you for such a great design! Could you please tell me if the white cable suppport at the back of the extruder on your Video Antenne Mount Ver 3 3point2 is a thingiverse part? I need some thing to stop the cable touching the bed plate.

Z Axis bar wire guide With optional LED LIGHT RAIL.. Take the wires off your Bowden tube.
by dpetsel
Comments deleted.

Dave I really like what I'm seeing here and plan on starting to print it shortly but I'm concerned about what mounts to print. To keep from any mistake, if I'm running a stock CR-10 S with EZABL and 5015 fan, are the only 3 files I need to print?
(1) EZ_Print_DUCT_for_MS_or_TEVO_or_STOCK_hotend_bases__3.3
(2) MS-Stock_Base_w_EZABL
(3) CR10_WireStrain_EZPrint_Duct_3.8

Thx a bunch for all the work you've put into this project.

Yep. Those are the files!

Thx a bunch Dave

do you have some document or video showing how to install ??

Samiraa78,
Not sure what hot end mount you are using but all bases clip over the hotend back plate and then screw into place. Leave your hotend attached. Slip base over and install screws. Slip duct over base and install duct to base screws. I did make a quick generic video for the base. I have attached a link here.

https://youtu.be/JVIstmXrJ1A
Dave

Thanks Dave, everything is stock though i would like to like mount 5015 fan as i have purchased couple of them currently i have printed the stock version 3.3

You can start with the stock fan duct if you like and advance to the 5015 when you want. They both fit the same base and use the same wire strain.

Thanks just one more query how do i bold the duct on the base or it is not required

Hi,

I'm trying to get the E3dv6 witch E3dv6 stock fan parts to fit, but no luck...here are the parts I printed:

1)E3Dv6_CNC_Generic_duct_Cappy_De.stl
2)E3Dv6__VOLCANO_BASE_Generic_2.28.stl
3)E3Dv6_CAP.stl

Part #1 and #2 don't fit at all..any idea what I did wrong?

The E3Dv6 CNC fan duct you printed is for the aluminum CNC mount you can purchase on EBAY. For the base you have you need the duct I have attached in a picture.
Dave

PS. You can also use a 40mm fan to cool the E3Dv6 heat sink. It replaces the top cap with a cap that has a 40mm fan mount. I have included a pic of that as well.

I see.... Thanks a lot for the quick reply. Really nice model!

Comments deleted.

Try putting a capacitor on your 5015. It will make it silent. I can just barely hear mine at 100% and don't hear it come on at less than 50%

Comments deleted.

Is it possible to use wire strain add on with E3Dv6 duct?

I'm working on it. With the optional Bowden for the top of the E3Dv6 the duct sits real high and I'm working on a prototype that has a big offset. Currently if it had a regular wirestrain it would hit the top rail at 380mm leaving you short 20mm of total print height.

Hi Dave, Just printed the CNC Fang and it's great, haven't had chance to test it but looking real good so far, many thanks. :)

before i print this i wanna make sure im printing the right files im using a CR10s ill be putting on OEM blower fan and a the OEM front fan , im printing MS-Stock_Or_Tevo_Duct_for_STOCK-FAN Strain mod 3.3 and MS-base generic are those all i need? my only other question is i saw you listed we need screws you said M3x20MM is that just to mount the hot end to the back plate? or are they needed else where as well sorry i tried to look through all the comments to find the awenser before i asked thank you in advanced for your time

You don't take the screws out of the hot end. The 3mmx20mm is for the upper left base screw that holds the base to the back plate. Those files are the correct ones.
Dave

perfect thank you so much im happy to be switching to this from the orginal fang model its destroyed so may prints by coming loose mid print from vibrations

Awesome design!

I printed
MS-Stock_Base_BL_Touch_3.3.stl
EZ_Print_DUCT_for_MS_or_TEVO_or_STOCK_hotend_bases__3.3.stl
CR10_WireStrain_EZPrint_Duct_3.8.stl

for my CR10S stock fan and hotend.

These should be all the parts that I need. However, I am not sure about the screws!

By 3 mm screws do you mean M3 screws? Will these work M3x20mm
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M3-0-5-x-20-mm-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Socket-Cap-Recessed-Hex-Screw-3-per-Bag-803208/204281930

Also, what about the smaller holes that attach the new wire strain to the duct, and the ones that attach the duct to the base?
"and is attached to the base with #2 or #3 socket head screws or similar"

What does #2 or #3 mean? you mean M2 or M3 because the holes seem quite small for M3 to fit.

It would be nice if you provide a list of needed screws with their proper names in the description because if you google 3mm x 20mm screws you won't find much.

Inthub,
I'm sorry.
I'm guessing you are in the UK?
In the US, SAE coarse screws have a # designation A #2 SAE screw is close to a 2mm. A #2 SAE or a 2mm metric will work for the side mounts on the duct. Since the back plate is a metric thread you should use a 3mm x 20mm standard pitch screw. The link for Home Depot should work just fine. Most hardware stores carry it in stock as well. When you Google the screws don't put in the spaces and you will get hundreds of pages for viewing. Google, 3mmx20mm screw.
In America #2 and #3 screws are common in woodworking and sheet metal.
Thanks
Dave

Thanks! I recently moved to the US so I'm still not very familiar with the names sorry :)

No problems.
I know tons of guys that have problems with the metric system!
This is a great company for small SAE and Metric screws. They run 20,30,and 40% off sales.
Plus their shipping is very low.
http://www.rtlfasteners.com/RC/d.html
Dave

Hi I am not able to open the air duct for the stock Tevo Tornado file when i try to open it in cura or repetiter host nothing happens no object is imported can you look in the same

I just downloaded the entire zip file and the ms stock fan fie individually. Both came up correctly in CURA slicer. Not sure of the problem you are having?

I plan on printing this for my CR-10S and adding an EZABL. I want to use a 5015 blower fan, but after reading the comments, I'm concerned about which fan to buy. I am reading that some/most of these fans do not allow themselves to be adjusted. Is there a specific 5015 fan that someone can direct me to that will allow itself to be adjusted without additional parts?

I did find this fan on one comment: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9ZMRUR/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=ericsdiy714-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01N9ZMRUR&linkId=42709123eb6368a2f780d04e0397933e

1) Can you confirm that the fan is all I need to be able to lower fan speeds without any additional parts ?
2) Can you confirm that the parts I need to print for CR-10S with stock hotend (may upgrade to Microswiss) with ABL and 5015 fan are:
EZ_Print_DUCT_for_MS_or_TEVO_or_STOCK_hotend_bases__3.3
MS-Stock_Base_w_EZABL
3) Also, since the base does touch the heatsink, should it be printed in ABS or PETG or will PLA suffice?

That is the fan I used. You will notice it is one of the only fans that actually give a variable voltage range. You will have to use a capacitor to get it to control the RPM's. I have not found a centrifugal 12 fan yet that handles the PWM signal well. With the cap it does. I have attached a diagram.
Those are the correct files for stock or micro swiss. Those are actually the files I am using on my cr10 with a micro swiss and ezabl. I have printed in PLA and PETG. The current base on my machine is PLA. it's not even close to heat, PLA is fine.
PLA will degrade by its nature over the years.
I have the PETG printed as spares.

Comments deleted.

This looks awesome, thank you. Can you tell me which files will work specifically with the ALL METAL E3D V6 MOUNT FOR CREALITY CR-10
available on Ebay https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SeDXyoc6P0 and using ABL sensor please?
Just a thought but the downloadable file you provide has a name that is too long to be copied and pasted in Windows 7, It was not a problem for me but may be for others.

Yes I've had a look at them and the E3Dv6__VOLCANO_BASE_W-EZABL_2.28 will not work the the All Metal Mount by the looks?

I'm sorry it is the E3Dv6 CNC mount.
Dave

No problem, thanks Dave.
Would you mind recommending a 5015 blower and 40mm fan and would either be adjustable for speed with the CR-10S?

Yes to the 5015 and there is not an option for a 40mm fan on the CNC mount. The 40mm cap fits on the E3Dv6 printed base not to the CNC part. It would defeat the purpose of having the CNC Aluminum Cap.
Dave

What I meant was a recommendation of a particular make and model of fan? :)

I use this one. It was the only one I found that would spec variable voltage.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9ZMRUR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey! dpetsel,

Sorry to be 'the one', but it appears Amazon has done 'something' (recently?) that wiped-out (previous) links to specific Amazon products. Thus (previous links) redirect to default Amazon.com

I run into this all the time! Here's the trick - When you copy and paste an Amazon (or Banggood, etc) link, find the end of the part number and only copy & paste from that to the beginning http.

Example above http...B01N9ZMRUR/

On Amazon all item numbers are in all caps!

PuterPro

Hey! +dpetsel,

Thx, but that's not what I was commenting (talking) about. Sorry about that.

Frankly, I'm not positive if editing links for specific Amazon products here in the "Comments" section will fix linking misdirects (apparently not?).

Albeit, I do know editing/updating links in the "Summary" section has recently proven to address the (recent?) Amazon misdirect link issues.

Truly sorry for the confusion. Anyways, and more importantly, thx for these Petsfang ducts.

Comments deleted.

Thanks but the link is to a generic Amazon advertising page with no fans.

I tried pasting it again and it gave me the same url. I attached a pic.

The answer to this one is easy :-) read my response earlier in this thread. You need to leave off everything after the Amazon ALL IN CAPS item number.

Awesome design!

PuterPro

Top man, thank you, should get them in a day or so and then I can start building. Really looking forward to trying out your designs.I gather from your Youtube vids that you are an aeromodeller also, how good is it being able to print your own parts/designs as and when you want/need. Amazing the way technology is heading. Thanks again.

Comments deleted.

I am not conviced that the design of the fang openings is ideal. For me it looks as if they are aiming directly to the nozzle. I had to lower the fan speed to 50% for better results (Micro-Swiss Version). In my opinion the air openings should aim a bit more downwards to the bed instead.

Furthermore it would have been nice if you would have added the Fusion360 files too ;)

Vranq,
I'm sorry you feel that way about my project. Even though it looks like the air is flowing on the nozzle the majority is going just below.
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/e8/4b/90/c7/47/702b1422d96d0efb331734365cfa596e_preview_featured.JPG

I too run the Micro Swiss hot end on my printer.

As far as the Fusion files go. The design is very complex and the only way I can make sure this cooling system is presented in it's current exceptional cooling form, is to keep the design files under my control. Since this design is working so well, for so many people, I don't want a lot of mods that would be substandard. If you have read in a multitude of forums it it working incredibly well and I am very dedicated to it's success. I will mod it for almost any machine, hot end or bed leveling.

Completely new designs are always hard to comprehend when they first come out. Maybe in the future more designers will incorporate this ducting style. I guess you will be using another design.
With all due respect,
Dave

Actually i am still using the Petsfang because i think it is the best design so far for a CR-10 fang. But a little detail bothers me too: the nozzle isn't exactly in the middle between the fang's holes: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgBTjLNh9YH2mQBcMI_-obD74Rdm

I would say that i have built everything right and all parts are fitting perfectly but i have no idea why the nozzle isn't centered.

Hi there - great work! I've printed the stock Tevo & fan duct, but there's a lot of room for vertical movement. Can you tell me what the distance from the hot end tip to the bottom of the duct should be? By eyeballing it, It looks to be about in the 3-3.5 mm range - what's the optimal distance for airflow?

Omster,
With the holes in the center position you are 1.342mm above the nozzle tip. You want the outflow low enough to clear you heat block so it doesn't cool it down. You may have standard insulation or a silicone insulator heat sock on your machine. Make sure the air flow clears that. Simple answer. Keep it close to centered on the holes. 2mm clearance when the tip is flat on the bed is a good number. I run mine at 2.5mm from the bed.
Dave

Thanks for the quick answer! I think the cooling on the Tornado is pretty good to start with, but this mod just made it better - thanks for sharing your creation!

I added this file last night. It allows you to use stock 40mm fan to cool the E3Dv6 Heat Sink.
Dave

how i can use that tevo tornado mean which part i need to download to use E3D heatsink with original stock fan instead of changing fan as most fans are 12V but tevo tornado is 24V

Hi,
Im not sure what parts to download for the CR-10 with microswiss.
Right now I use stock fan.
Can someone post some links for me?

Go to files page. These files are on that page.
I have included a screenshot. One base, one duct, you decide which combination you want to use. Mix and match.
They all fit together. All the files in the picture will fit your Micro Swiss.
Dave

Update: I've made a rough version by combining your parts in tinkercad and they fit good enough for me! (E3Dv6_CAP_with_MS-Stock_Base_generic.png)

Outstanding print!!! you've really nailed it...!

I've made the E3Dv6 Base v3 with EZABL however I've got a 40mm cooling fan that I use and is mounted to the throat directly therefore I have to print something else (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:506958) and hack it to 'press fit' it to the E3Dv6 Base v3 which works but is not a clean solution.

I was wondering if you would be able to create a stand alone part that would integrate the MS-stock base (front fan mount only) with the E3Dv6_CAP so that it would just 'drop in' and mate with the E3Dv6 Base v3 directly?

I've done a mock up in tinkercad so that you can see what I'm on about.

See what you think any way as I'm sure others would find it useful too.

Thanks!

E3D V6 40mm Fan Mount

xxthingynz,
Funny you should ask for this. When I was first designing for the E3dv6 I asked most the people what they where using and they all said the stock clip on fan. I had already started the design with the stock 40mm fan. So I just put that design away. Well here you go. I finished it up for the my stock bases. It will fit the Volcano and E3Dv6 hot ends and all the pertinent bases. It is in the files area.
Enjoy.

Thanks for the great design. I will be printing this for my modded CR-10S soon. I am working out some kinks to print it with PETG. I'll post some photos when I finally get it up and working.

I may see if I can design a temporary mount (out in front of the fan) for a Digital Probe Indicator Dial that I have. I'm curious as to how much variance (in flatness) there is in some of my bed options I have assembled.

https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Indicator-0-25-4mm-Indicators-Electronic/dp/B0793RZ9ZC/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1519799252&sr=1-1&keywords=Neoteck+DTI+Digital+Dial+Indicator+0.001%2F0.00005%27%27+Digital+Probe+Indicator+Dial+Test

Hi man! printing now your solution for my cr10...looks that you nailed what I was looking for! thanks and good job! tried too the capacitor trick...and it worked , but in a very strange way...the fan starts spinning even at 1% but does it akways at full power...wonder if an smaller mf capacitor will have a better effect...I plan to start with 10 and move to 50 and 100 to check which one works better..but before going into the soldering chore I wonder if you have any advice. hope you do! :-)
thanks and all the best from Spain!

luis

Luis,
Thanks for all the great comments. Did you order a variable voltage 5015? Some are not and will not allow you to reduce the RPM.
I got a 5-13 volt on Amazon and I can get hear the change when I drop the %.
Dave

Well..it changes speed when connected with no capacitor. Starts spinning at 35% more or less. Not sure if it makes it susceptible to voltage or no :-) obviously the capacitor has some effect on it as full power is achieved from 1% onwards. My main goal was to reduce the high frequency whine coming from the blower that lots of people identify as related to the pwm not correctly managed by the fan...if you not sure about what could it be, I will try several capacitors and will post my findings here. In ant case your work is outstanding and the willingness to help the community too! Thanks again!!

well some tests done:

220 nf : fan always on at full power, electric whine totally off
100 nf: fan is at full power when above 25%, whine totally off
22 nf: fan is at fuill power when above 60% whine totally off
10 nf: fan is at full power when above 85%, a little bit of whine, that cant be heard when over 20% speed
no capacitor: fan starts spinning around 38%, reaching full power at 100%. Electric whine is always present and quite annoying.

So based on the above, I made a permanent setup with a 10nf capacitor. I am supper happy now! Y suspect that every 5015 blower is different so your mileage may vary... Mine probably will as my spare blowes are all different from each other...

happy printing!!!

I can confirm you findings. Tried about the same size of capacitors and 10uF worked out great for me.

I tried appro 4-5 diffrent types of 5015 blowers i got from aliexpress. All of them responded terrible to PWM. Most of them would not run under 50% duty cycle, and most of them had terrible PWM sounds below 80%.

I found 10uF works great for my fans rated between 0.14 and 0.2A. I would be somewhat careful when using a capacitor parallel to the fan. The capacitor can greatly increase current spikes while the FET controlling the PWM signal, is switching. I have not measured this, so i dont not know how much extra load it puts on the FET. I would however recommend that you place the capacitor close to the fan, and not close to the mainboard. The resistance of the wire will reduce current spikes. For now it works great for me, but there have been some issues of Creality trying to cut costs on the control board. Current or future versions could have a different FET that can handle less current. Mind this is all very theoretical unless someone does some actual measuring with specialized equipment.

(I see you wrote down the values as nF. This would be nano farad while i think you are talking about micro farad (uF). There is a 1000x difference in this value. I'm not sure everyone will understand. Maybe you should change it to uF)

Topotonto,
That's great news. I'll have to keep your info as reference. The larger the number = more capacitance. I guess less is more.
I'm glad you got it sorted out.
Your print looks great BTW.
Dave

Have you made version for E3D V6 with Volcano?
Thanks

Psdesign,
Yes. If it has the _Volcano in the name it will work together. These are new additions. I have not seen one made but the dimensions/fitment should be right on.

Is it possible to get a version with a fan size of 5020??

Brasse,
Sorry. Too large for my duct system. Static pressure would be excessively unbalanced.

Hi there. I am confused with the files. I am using Tevo Tornado with Micro Swiss all metal hotend. Which files should I go for?

I understand. I have designed a ton of combinations.
I have taken a couple of sreenshots for you. Any of the bases and ducts starting with TEVO will work.
They have a little larger clearance on the X Carriage back plate.
This is the generic TEVO base and ducts. If you want a bed leveler use the TEVO base file with the pertinent leveler.
Thanks
Dave

Thank you for the quick reply! Much appreciated! Thanks for your work!

Thanks for this great design! I am convinced that I will fit a 5015 type fan to my CR10S after reading the comments. When I open the MS-Stock_Duct_5015_fan_WITH_Wire_Strain stl file in S3D it is shown as a vertical print. Is that OK as it would be faster printed on it's back but I'm guessing there is a good reason to print it vertically? As it stands it is an 8 hr print. I can live with that but if possible to print quicker that would be good ;)

Alan5596,
Print it front flat face down. It only needs supports from the bed and they will be minimal.
See the video.
https://youtu.be/03R_0Qzzp4Q
The video is not your exact duct mod but it gives you an idea of the print orientation.
Thanks
Dave

Can we get an option that uses 40mm Fan instead of the 5015? Tia.

I think this design needs a fan which generates pressure and a normal axial fan(40x40x10) generates less pressure than a radial fan (5015).

CallistroJaro is spot on. The radial 5015 puts out the pressure the duct was designed for.

I understand, thank you, Anyway we can get a wire relief version for the CNC mounts too? Thank you.

Hello, i'm the guy who wrote with you today for the modification on the Bltouch mount for Tevo Tornado stock hot end. 2,5 hours sleep is to short

I know....... Did you get it printed? After I got down working with you I spent some time working on a mod for the TEVO Tarantula. I got done at 3 AM and my furnace thermocoupler went out! I think I got an hour sleep in the last 24.

I read it what you have done, crazy man ;-). I'm just right now at home, had to work from 5:30am till 4:00pm. Now it's 5:30pm here. I have to bring one of our kids in bed at 7-8 pm and then I can print and test it. I let you know how it fits when I'm finished ;-) I'm so terribly tired
like you i think.

Yep. I really appreciate guys like you that help me make this mod trouble free for others that will use it like yourself. I would have never known there was an issue with the BL Touch mount on the TEVO. A lot of folks would just download it and be frustrated. With every interaction with guys like you, the duct just gets better and better.

Great one! But not sure how to combine the files (perhaps you can also clarify this on details page).
I have a Tevo Tornado and want to use a new 5015 radial fan. Which files do I need?

Thank you very much!

Neumicha,
I did put info in the details.
You can mix and match several combinations with the Tevo. All files with the Same prefix in the name will work together. Choose the base you want to use with the TEVO_Tornado prefix and then choose the duct mod you want to use with or without the wire strain arm with the same TEVO_Tornado prefix. Those are all mix and match by machine and will fit together. With this modular feature if you decide to change let's say from a duct without wire strain to one with, you will not have to reprint the base. Likewise if you decide you want a bed leveling feature to your base, you can reprint that base and not have to reprint your duct.

Just printed right now. Which size of screws i need to mount the duct to the base?

I used #2 socket head screws 1/4 long. Any short #2 or a 2mm screw will work. ACE and True Value carries them. A #3 will work in a pinch. It's just harder to find a 1/4" #3.

hi. yes im a 3d noob needing help, can i use this with the stock fans?, and if so which of the multiple files in the rar do i use?
thanks

What machine do you have? CR10 or TEVO Tornado?

tevo tornado

what screws do i need to fit the printed item please, reuse the stock screws?

Here a re the screws. They are in the description.

thankyou,sorry to trouble you

awsome, thanks for the help, and sharing your creation

awsome. thanyou for the help

Can I use the "MS-Stock_Duct_for_STOCK_FAN-WITH_Wire_Strain.stl" together with the "TEVO_Tornado_Base_GENERIC_V3.stl". I want to use the Tevo Tornado stock fan.
Thanks in advance.

Doni0815
Yes. DrMae did this one.
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:447866

Petsfang Duct for CR10 MicroSwiss/Stock/E3Dv6/Volcano/TevoTornado /Tarantula Hot End/E3Dv6 CNC Mount & 5015 fan or Stock fan&bed leveling

Hi Dave,
I did the water test, it looks very good. The center of the air flow is just below the tip of the nozzle.

Thanks Pemic those tests are great examples of the flow. I can't thank you enough!

Hi Dave,

I like your ducts with the wire strain relief but if I need to remove the duct to do some maintenance on the hot-end or bowden, I always have to cut the zip tie first. So why not attaching the wire strain relief to the base instead to the duct?
Created a quick remix of your new generic base to demonstrate what I mean (http://a360.co/2sAUZWq). Made it thicker to improve its strength, changed the shape of the wire strain a bit for easier printing and put in 4 slots for the zip ties instead of just one.

I've also changed the vertical wall to a Y shaped wall for better access to the grub screw on the Micro-Swiss hotend.
Just a concept, not printed yet.

Any chance you change your mind and make your design available in native Fusion 360 format? It would make it so much easier to contribute to your work.

Peter

Pete,
Check your measurements on the wire strain relief you are proposing. With your wire strain on the base at 14mm to the right of the current position it hits the Z Gantry 12mm before the print nozzle reaches the full 300mm bed printing width. If you were to move it to the other side you will crisscross the Bowden tube with negative consequences.
If you any more suggestions I ask that you send them to me in the Message area not in the Comment section so we can converse quicker with less clutter.
Dave

Thanks Dave for checking.
My CR-10 is disassembled currently for doing other upgrades. I havn‘t printed the mod yet.

Though I almost never print that far on the right side of the bed, the wire strain relief should not run into the Z gantry if one uses the bed to its full size. So I don‘t recommend using the mod until the problem has been fixed.

Peter

Pete,
Thanks for your suggestions. I had originally put the wire strain on the base similar to your design. I thought long and hard about what would be the best mounting of the wire strain. Given the wide open space of the current base for cooling above and below I thought the wire strain on the base would direct hot air coming from the heat sink and , if even minimally not allow the hot air at the top of the base to dissipate but instead the air would follow the wire strain arm. Since I wanted to add a Bowden tube guide and realizing people will probably tape the wires and tube back together I decided to combine the features together and put them on the duct. I hope you don't have to do maintenance on your hot end and Bowden too much. I've had to take my assembly off 3 times (just to test some of these designs) and cutting a single zip tie wasn't too much of an issue. Have you printed and used one yet? The current iteration allows for very easy access to grub screw.

Comments deleted.

What fan are you using? Where can I get it?

Chrisj0n,
I use this fan as it is variable voltage. I got it on Amazon.
Dave

Hey Dave,

I'm a little bit lost. I have tevo tornado and I would like to install E3Dv6 with bltouch and 5015fan. Which parts should I use?

Thanks for the great work.

Sorry, one more question. Where do I attach a fan to cool the radiator?

Darekd
You will use the clip on fan that comes with your E3Dv6 hot end.

If you are lazy like me (or just don't want to hunt for them), instead of finding nylon screws to mount the fans, you can take advantage of this thingi - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:193647

Here at the settings I used which works great and seems to be the perfect fit:

/ [Bolt Option] /
head_type = "hex";
drive_type = "socket";
head_diameter = 7;
head_height = 3;
drive_diameter= 5;
slot_width = 1;
slot_depth = 2;
texture = "exclude";
thread_outer_diameter = 5;
thread_step = 2;
step_shape_degrees = 45;
thread_length = 25;
countersink = 2;
non_thread_length= 0;
non_thread_diameter= 0;

/ [Nut Options] /
nut_type = "normal";
nut_diameter = 8;
nut_height = 4;
nut_thread_outer_diameter = 6;
nut_thread_step = 2;
nut_step_shape_degrees = 45;
wing_ratio = 1;
wing_radius=wing_ratio * nut_height;

Depending on your printer's configuration / material, the nut_thread_outer_diameter can be dropped to 5. with mine, 6 holds well.

You might want to add some locktight or for that matter, tighten and superglue them on... if you need to remove, cut and reprint.

NUT JOB | Nut, Bolt, Washer and Threaded Rod Factory

Hi dpetsel,

I really like the design of your fang. BUT I think the Tevo Tornado Base isn't 100% finished yet.
I'm missing the mounting holes for the hotend Fan and where are you supposed to put the hotend wires? Without the channel for the hotend wires, I think there might be too much tension on the cables...
How about a little more distance to the right side of the hotend? I think 1or 2mm would be enough to fit the cables inside the base mount.
I hope I described everything well enough for you to understand;)

DRMae,
I am so sorry! You are right. I'll take them down and get them fixed right up.
Dave

No problem,
I think your support to the community is more than awesome. Is it maybe possible to realise a vertical channel for the hotend wires, like you did with the stock ms base?

You could maybe leave the Fusion files somewhere, then I could realise it by myself or for you if you like.

DrMae,
I added wire races to the outside edge of the TEVO bases. This will allow you to keep the wires from the heatsink area.
Dave

Dave, you are awesome.
I will print it right now and let you know how it turned out tomorrow.

DrMae,
Nice print! Did it fit alright? You are the first Tevo I've seen.
Dave

Anyone else having issues running their hotend wiring in the channel on the stock hotend base? I'm finding it to be a bit tight.

Also is it possible with the duct using the stock blower, to not have to cut/solder anything? or do I need to lengthen the cables?

Joebywan,
I heard a couple of issues with a tight channel now. I modded the bases to give a lot more clearance for the wires clear down to the heat block.
I originally designed it for my Micro Swiss and had no issues. Thanks for letting me know, now they're fixed.
Dave

Not heard anything about a tight channel. As far as stock fan you will need to remove the piece of tape holding wiring to Bowden tube to get extra length then retape once installed.

thanks man i will try it soon, printing this with PLA should be fine right ?

Ali3,
Which base are you printing?

hello,

i printer the stock one but after installing it crackling noise has been increased when printer does travel movement , can you please check pics and let me know if i mounted it correctly.

right now i am printing a model, it seems to be working fine.

It looks like you ran your hot end power wires inside the base by the hot end. I put a recess cut on the outside of the base to run your wires.
Your green print looks cool BTW.

Here are a few pics of the test prints for the E3Dv6 Petsfang Duct.
I purchased a V6 clone from TH3D and a CR10 metal base plate from Tiny Machines to use as my reference for installation tests.
My original tolerances were from my drawing ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2777638 ) which I drew from actual E3D Shop Drawings.
So far all parts fit incredibly and with 4 screws going clear through the base to the back plate the test base is rock solid!
I will post STL files once my testing is done.
Dave

E3Dv6 Large Heatblock Upgrade and E3D Volcano
by dpetsel

I'm loving this design. Good job :)

Could you please make a body for the bltouch sensor?

Maybe you can use this as reference:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493610

CR-10 BLTouch mount

Jpepp,
I've had a multitude of interest for this design and a lot of suggestions for mods. Bear with me. I will be working on them as fast as time allows.
Dave

Cool. Thanks for the info :)

Jpepp,
The STL file for the base with BL Touch is uploaded.
Let me know how it works.
Dave

Everything seems to be OK. The only small problem I see is that the sensor support collides with the endstop and makes a bit of a weird sound... I have attached a picture of it

Just to let you know in case you design V2

Besides that, I love this fan duct :)

Thanks for thr props, Jpepp,
I caught that clearance issue one or two revisions back. The new base is below.

Wow, that was faster than I expected. Thank you very much :)

I still have to change the firmware on my new cr10 in order to support this, but I will get back to you as soon as I'm able to test this.

Any chance you could do a public share on the Fusion 360 design? I would like to modify the Micro-Swiss duct to use a M3 20mm to mount rather than a 40.

Scobob,
It is set up for a 3x30mm or a 4x40 by 1 1/8" SAE in a pinch since they are almost the same thread size.
Not sure why you want a 3x20mm but here you go.

Thanks for the quick response! Specialty metric screws like a 3x30mm are tough to come by locally without ordering a quantity of 25 from McMaster. Printing now! Thanks again.

I like a couple of things on your design:

  • that it mounts on the X carriage and not the hotend
  • the sideway fan orientation
  • that it works with a Micro-Swiss hotend
  • that it works with a 5015 fan

But are you sure, the horizontal, laminar airflow you are demonstrating in your YouTube video is how it should be? There was a lot of critics on the original one-sided fan duct that it blows on the nozzle and not on the print and there are a couple of mods on Thingiverse that direct the airflow down towards the print to fix this. It seems your design is exactly doing this, blowing primarily towards the nozzle and not on the print. Did I miss something?

PeteThings,
Let me address that based on current 3d printing information about glass transition temperatures and airflow directional velocity. All fangs (ducts) are hopefully designed to cool the extruding filament. As in the example of PLA filament the extruding temperature is 180-210 with a glass transition temperature of 60-65. Ideally you want to get your extruded filament to that temperature as quick as possible after this hot extruded filament has bonded to the underlying layer. All of the fang designs attempt to do that. Unfortunately most designs (not all) direct this airflow too far downward. This downward velocity causes the hot filament to be forced downward with that flow before it can reach the glass transition temperature. If you are printing one layer on top of another, this downward velocity would have little effect on the print. However, when printing any infill or large areas, that have significant bridging, this downward velocity warps the hot extruded filament causing poor bridging or a complete failure of the print. As you can see in my “Fan Challenge” testing the majority of directional velocity horizontal to the printing surface is limited to 1mm to .5mm below the nozzle with a very narrow flow directed on the nozzle. I think there is a misconception or maybe just a design issue, that air over the nozzle will affect the temperature or the ability to extrude. Since the heat block carries the majority of heat to transfer heat to the nozzle and melt the filament most of them are insulated. You are now seeing the advent of silicone sock insulators for this reason. In testing, the amount of air crossing my nozzle has never affected the outlet temperature for extruding purposes. Another part of the design I have to credit to my Engineering friend is the larger volume ducting chambers leading to the outlets. The larger volume ducts work as a flow regulator, it similar to a capacitor in electronics. It holds a volume of static pressure that will change in linear outflow rate with fan RPM increase. Once “pressurized” the ducts keep a steady volume of air flowing though the outlets. Most (not all) of the current fang designs have a “flow through” design with very little resistance down the duct. At 3 to 4 CFM of a standard 5015 Radial fan it equates to extreme amount of downward force against a very limp heated extruded filament that is trying to stay horizontal over bridging. In my tests I can get 200mm bridging with no problem. This is a result of the airflow passing horizontally over the limp filament not down into the print. I hope this information helps. Feel free to test it out. I am truly enjoying the results.

What a great explanation. This makes the upgrade most worthwhile to me now. Thanks so much.

Thank you very much for this detailed explanation. Makes sense to me. I‘ll definitely give it a try and report back.

PeteThings has something to say about Petsfang Duct for Micro Swiss or stock CR10 Hot End for 5015 fan or stock fan
Thank you very much for this detailed explanation. I‘ll definitely give it a try.

Would you be willing to add this as an alternative the EZABL mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2502410 or share your Fusion 360 file so I would do it myself and handover the mod back to you? if you want to do it, it should be attached in a way that the height of the probe is adjustable and could be closer to the nozzle than the EZABL as it is much smaller but the IR diodes shall be facing away from the nozzle to prevent them to be smudged with filament in case of a misprint. But it should not slip. I‘d probably put 1 layer height teeth on the sensor plate and the attaching point on your fang to prevent any slipping.

Here you go Pete

Creality CR-10 Mini IR Sensor Mount

Wow, that was fast.
In case you wonder why I've edited my original comment: I realized, that I could even use your design with minimal changes to attach the IR sensor-board on top. But your mod is even nicer.

Just one additional thing: Could you post the duct with the wire strain relief as well? Thank you very much.

Btw. below the mods I made before you posted your's. In case someone prefers to have the sensor-board on top. Luckily both parts were below the triangle threshhold where Fusion refuses to convert them into a BRep. :-)

Hmm, IR_Petsffang_Duct.stl is significantly taller than your other 1-29 Ducts. Is this a new design you are working on?

Yes. I had to increase the length for the E3dv6 duct given the way it mounts. I wasn't sure what was involved with the rest of the mount for your IR Leveler so I put the longer duct on. It allows you to really dial in the flow by adjusting it an extra 2mm lower, so you can put it just above the extrusion layer. I'll get you a strain relief. Wait till you see the E3Dv6 mount. I'll bet I could lift 20 lbs. from the hot end. It is rock solid to the base. with 4 screws into the metal backing plate.

Ok, thanks. As I‘m happy with my Micro-Swiss hotend and have no plans to get an E3Dv6, I‘d have to stick with your 1-29 mount, right? Or will your E3Dv6 mount be an improved universal design for all hotends?
Same question for the new E3Dv6 duct. Will it replace all the 1-29 versions?
While easier to maintain I don’t think a one-size-fits-all solution is always superior. Blowing a lot of air above the top of the cold-end makes cooling less effective.

Pete,
The ducting is built for superior bridging. There is minimal or no heat loss with my design per my extensive testing with infrared gun. During a random sampling over 3 hours of testing with my Micro Swiss at 250 C at the hot end the tip measured +- 2 degrees C. The duct is the main feature. Anyone can design a mount for the various hot ends. The one size fits all is for the duct only. Adding 10mm to length of the duct doesn't change the static pressure of the 5015 by a measurable amount.
Dave

Hi Dave,

sorry for my stupid statement about the less effective cooling with your taller E3Dv6 design. The coldend-fan is mounted on and blowing through the base and thus it makes no difference in cooling efficiency if the duct is taller. I've totally missed this, when I wrote my comment.
Your design is really well thought and your are doing a tremendous job in testing its performance. A marvelous piece of solid engineering, congratulations.
I've meanwhile printed both the base and the duct with PETG. Duct came out pretty nice. The base is usuably but not perfect. I've printed it without support. I have well dialed-in settings for printing PETG but support and overhangs are always problematic with PETG because it is so sticky. I usually try to either use PLA for designs that need either or (re)-design the model to need neither if I have to use PETG.
Inspired by other modular fang designs I've tried in the past, I've imported your IR_Petsfang_base into Fusion 360, split it in 3 pieces and added alignement pins. I think it is easier to print that way. The front and left part can be printed laying flat, the right part in the original upright orientation (see picture). No support is needed. The 3 parts can be assembled with either an additional 3mm screw and hex-nut or glued together. Cannot say how well it will work when installed as I'm currently printing it.
Maybe you like it and use (or improve) it in your mainstream base version. Here is a link to the Fusion 360 model including all 3 parts: http://a360.co/2EA2T7f
(for Mac user: The link does not work in Safari, use Chrome instead).

Peter

Pete
Thanks for the comments.
I've printed the various bases about a dozen times now in PETG and PLA with CURA 3.2. I used 80% overhang angle and supports everywhere. The 80% overhang keeps supports away from any surfaces I am confident will print without the supports. You can see in the pic only minimal supports for the fan exit. Have not had a substandard print with this profile yet printing this base in any filament.

Here is what the minimal supports look like sliced up. https://youtu.be/UtINRbHRHbE

Thanks Dave,
could you share the Cura PETG/PLA profiles you are using to print your designs? I‘m using mostly S3D and have installed Cura 3.2 recently but not yet used it.

Pete,
Sure. Go to this folder on my Drive and both profiles can be downloaded. Keep in mind most of my parts are structural, prototyping and mechanical. I keep heavy walls and a lot of infill in final prints. When prototyping for fitment I keep heavy walls but light infill. The reason? I know my interference fitting and clearances will be maintained when printing the final. My PETG is a basic setting I use. I adjust flow rate on the fly in Octoprint depending on the circumstance.
Here is the link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1RkoReaAh3v0j0mMKri1fiuz4EvvTFQtC

Hi Dave,

in case the 3 parts design doesn‘t work as expected I can give it a try with your settings.
Seems you are printing it with 0.1 mm layer height?

I print all my prototypes at .2
When I design something I know what clearances and tolerances I can expect since I print everything the same layer height.
.1 kills me..... Too slow!
Dave

Not to be confusing but you have a lot of questions.
You: As I‘m happy with my Micro-Swiss hotend and have no plans to get an E3Dv6, I‘d have to stick with your 1-29 mount, right? Or will your E3Dv6 mount be an improved universal design for all hotends?

Me: My E3Dv6 duct is only longer because of the height of the E3dv6 nozzle mount and clearances. The added length has no effect on airflow. I used the added length for your singular design because it is not in the mainstream (yet) and I won't be adding it as an option on my "thing" page since it is so close to my other design and would just be confusing.. Although you could add it to your page or the IR leveler page as an option. The E3Dv6 design will have E3Dv6 prefixes for all the modular pieces and although the mount and duct functionality stays the same the interconnection for mounting the modular pieces will be proprietary.

Hello!

Printing this fang atm, can you please share which screws you've used for mounting etc.

Thank you!

MSMITS,
The info is in the printing instructions.
Here is a screenshot.
Dave

I've been puzzling looking at the files and I'm clearly not understanding something.

Does the micro swiss body also work for the stock hot end? Because the only body STLs I'm currently seeing are the Micro Swiss with and without ABL.

Yes. The Micro Swiss hot end is a little wider but very close to the dimensions of the stock hot end. So yes, both bases will work with the Micro Swiss and the Stock Hot End. Since the Stock hot end is a little smaller but mounted to the plate in the same fashion it will fit perfectly.

Will the file dated 1-16 work with a microswiss hotend a 5015 fan ?
Thank you for the great design

I just removed the 1-16 file. It was all the components combined into 1 STL file for viewing all angles, not to be printed. Any of the bases and ducts will work with your Micro Swiss. You can mix and match. One base has the ABL one doesn't. One 5015 duct has the wire strain relief the other doesn't. The other duct is for stock fan, with or without wire strain relief. ALL bases will fit with ALL ducts.

I love your design and can't put into words how much of a difference it makes. As I am using a Micro Swiss Hotend as well this was just what I was looking for.
There is only one thing I would need to be perfectly happy with it: A way to access the grub screw located on top of the heat block. As I am switching my nozzle quite regularly the screw gets loose often, causing filament to be squeezed out on top of the heat block and thus forcing me to disassemble the entire cooler to tighten it again. I know that this must be a very special use case and is probably not worth your time to redesign the whole thing, thus its very important to me a thank you for all the effort you put into this already. You raised to already amazing quality of the CR 10 to a whole new level.

Many kind regards from Germany, Arahn

Arahn,
I appreciate all the nice comments.
I have put a relief in the edge of the fan base to allow for access to the grub screw. I looked at mine and this should give you enough room to access it.
Will you let me know how it works?
Dave

Cool fang. I really like the performance. Any chance you can make one for E3D v6 too?

E3Dv6 files are up.

Cool, im printing it right now.

I'm making progress on the E3D v6 mount,

Awesome. Take your time.